April 7, 2009
Nestled between some of Paris’ most famous monuments, unbeknownst to throngs of shutter-happy tourists, the Palais Royal neighborhood is filled with hidden gems, covered passageways and some of the best hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurants and shops the city has to offer. Today at the HipParis blog we delve a little deeper into this gourmet stronghold to bring you our selection of must-dos and sees.
Walking through Paris, you’ve undoubtedly wondered at all of the “Restaurant Japonais” storefronts serving up menus featuring little or no variations of grilled meats, sushi and sashimi. But if you’re looking for a Japanese experience that actually verges on authenticity, the rue Sainte Anne is where you want to be. Inconspicuously situated between the administrative Bourse area and the bustling Opera, the rue Sainte Anne stretches out as a haven of Japanese bistros and shops.
Your first stop, before noon for lunch or before 19:30 for dinner (if you want to avoid the lines that soon stretch down the block) is Kunitoraya, a now-famous, bar-seating-only refuge for udon lovers. Let yourself be tempted by the fritture du jour prepared by the chefs in the open kitchen, and order up a steaming bowl of udon or the delicious Kamodon (duck and egg on a large bowl of rice). Service is prompt, the chefs and waiters are friendly, and the people waiting outside for your spot will be grateful if you don’t linger over conversation!
After lunch head further north on the rue Sainte Anne to the rue Chabanais where, at #13, you can get your fix of the city’s best bubble tea at Zen Zoo, which is also an excellent lunchtime bet. Served hot or cold, with or without milk and in a variety of flavors (our favorites are sesame, taro and green tea), we recommend getting it to-go to enjoy in the neighboring Square Louvois. If you’re in the mood for coffee, the café Au fil de l’eau just across the street serves an excellent espresso, and is coincidentally a lunchtime hotspot for Andouillette fans.
Just down the block, on rue Rameau, also lies an interesting boutique dealing antique and contemporary prints. When we stopped by, 18th century depictions of human anatomy rubbed shoulders with whimsical watercolors, all reasonably priced.
Another foodie must-try is the Workshop D’Issé on the nearby rue Saint Augustin. Brainchild of the owner of rue Richelieu’s famed Japanese bistro Issé, this enterprising boutique is divided between a grocery section (filled with titillating Japanese imports) and a small counter and communal table where every lunchtime, for 10 euros, the chef (on leave from the frenetic pace of the sister resto) serves up a fixed menu put together at his discretion, populated with anything he feels like experimenting with that day!
After all that eating, a stroll is well in order. The 2nd arrondissement is intensely riddled with covered passages perfect for strolling on a rainy day – but the key can be finding them. The elegant Gallerie Vero-Dodat is a must-see; and the bustling Passage Choiseul features a number of intriguing book stalls and clothing boutiques.
Useful addresses and links:
- Kunitoraya, 39 rue Sainte-Anne, 75001, 01 47 03 33 65.
- Zen Zoo, 13 rue Chabanais, 75002, 01 42 96 27 28.
- Workshop d’Isse, 11 rue Saint Augustin, 75002, 01 42 96 26 74
- Isse, 45 rue Richelieu, 75001, 01 42 96 26 60
- Au Fil de l’eau, 9 rue Rameau, 75002, 01 42 96 86 17
- Gallerie Vero-Dodat, entrance rue Croix des Petits Champs or rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001.
- Passage Choiseul, entrance rue des Petits Champs or rue Saint Augustin, 75002.
- Haven in Paris Rameau apartment: 6 rue Rameau, 75002.
Other things to explore in the neighborhood:
- Juveniles wine bar: great wine bar and shop with a reasonably priced selection of international wines. Perfect for a drink before dinner; the chocolate cake is also worth the detour.
- Willi’s wine bar: Also a fantastic wine bar located 13 rue des Petits Champs, Willi’s is a great pre-dinner pitstop for a glass of wine and a cheese plate.
- Grand Colbert: the quintessential Parisian brasserie, this gorgeous bistro serves food throughout the day and was the setting for a scene in Something’s Gotta Give, with Jack Nicholson, Diane Keaton and Keanu Reeves. 2 rue Vivienne, 75002.
- Confiserie G. Tretel: A traditional French confiserie, packed with enough sweets in packages from bygone eras to make a child’s head spin. 44 rue des Petits Champs, 75002.
- Kioko: fantastic Japanese supermarket filled with everything you’d need to prepare a Japanese feast. 46 rue des Petits Champs, 75002.
Written by Genevieve Sandifer
Genevieve was born in New York City and raised between London and Paris. Genevieve is part of the Haven in Paris team and is the editor of the Hip Paris blog. Unable to stay away from Paris for too long, she now splits her time between New York, Honolulu and Paris, where she keeps tabs on the Haven in Paris properties and service providers and scours the city for great bistros, cocktail bars and vintage stores.
Website: Haven in Paris
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