Lunch at Glou in Le Marais
February 9, 2010
Erica Berman
My first week in Paris has been hard. I don’t know the language and my French classes aren’t making me a master anytime soon. I don’t know the city at all, and the Metro system has felt nothing like the subway systems of New York or Boston, probably due to all those darn French words I just don’t understand. My neighborhood in the 18th is fine and my apartment is sweet, but they just don’t feel like home.
(I know, I know. I’m super lucky to be spending three glorious months in the City of Light, but sympathize with me for a few more paragraphs, okay?)
Yesterday, I wanted to pack it in, give in to this beautiful but totally foreign city. I was about to shut myself away in my little apartment and venture out only when I had to finally get to French ecole (school) on Monday morning. Working against the little voice inside my tête (head), I forced myself out into the city. And with sore feet from all these vicious hills and rough pavement, I found myself completely lost.
Then, my phone rang.
One of my dearest girlfriends from home, a woman married to a French man, walked me through getting to the Galeries Lafayette (where I needed to scout out some real, but chic walking shoes). Her surprise call and the corresponding little triumph (comfy shoes found!), came at the most perfect moment. It boosted my confidence, and gave me the will to venture out again today.
Today, I found Le Marais. Or rather, ten years after I first traversed its narrow streets, Le Marais found me. Every street felt familiar. Each building made me remember. The neighborhood reminded me of Boston’s South End and New York City’s Nolita all at once, but better, sweeter, far lovelier. And as I wandered off the main boulevards, I finally felt at home.
I got a little lost here and there, walking up and down side streets searching out a little restaurant, recommended by Erica Berman of Haven in Paris, for my birthday lunch. (Yes, happy birthday to me! I’m old. Don’t ask.) But I didn’t mind feeling lost there. And the moment I was about to pull out my map to figure out the locale of Glou, my phone rang. The husband called to say a quick hello, to ensure I was making the most of my birthday. As I hung up, I looked up and voila! There was Glou.
Maggie Battista
Glou is a parfait (perfect) little spot for a special meal. It’s chic and sparse enough to feel like your own modern gastro-pub, but friendly enough to cater to my silly American questions. They had an English version of their menu, which made ordering a breeze. Of course, I already knew the French word for Champagne. (Um, it’s Champagne, folks.) And while I do believe that on some level I could survive on Champagne alone, I opted to order a few plates.
The Utah Beach huîtres (oysters) were the best oysters of my life, and I promise that’s not because I ate them in Paris. These oysters are special. Utah Beach (in Normandy) is the spot to farm oysters in France. The taste of these delightful specimens was certainly salty, but also uplifting, bright and citrusy. The oysters were served with a big pat of butter with which to spread over the brown bread in my basket. I suspected it was Breton butter, the best in France. (Butter elates me almost as much as Champagne. Almost.) In Brittany, they serve their seafood with bread and butter, something I learned from Anthony Bourdain recently. (Check out the preview to his Brittany episode on YouTube.)
Maggie Battista
I rounded out my meal with a bowl of pumpkin soup that warmed me from the inside. It was pure pumpkin and radiantly orange, with bits of fresh herbs on top. As I slurped sweetly (of course!), I gabbed with my fellow sole diner, a kind girl from Brazil, about the pure pumpkin flavor. We sipped espressos together and then went on our ways.
So not only did the divine intervene and lead me to Glou – my husband is going to love that I associated him with ‘the divine’ – but the divine once again gave me a dining partner and a delicious birthday lunch. I stepped back out into Paris and wandered down every little street confidently.
I couldn’t find this fabulous little wine shop, Julien Caviste, that a food friend recommended, but slowly (and surely) parts of Paris will begin to feel like home to me and I will venture out once again to find that wine shop.
Because I need more Champagne. This half-bottle of brut rose is disappearing fast.
Glou
101 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
+33 (0)1.42.74.44.32
Métro: Saint-Sébastien – Froissart
Open: Mon – Sun
This post originally appeared on Eat Boutique.
Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.
Written by Maggie Battista
Passionate about fine dining and old-fashioned hospitality, Maggie is focused on finding hidden, authentic food gems and is absolutely in love with the creamy, salty butter sold all over Paris. She also runs an online magazine and market called Eat Boutique, where she discovers the best small batch foods by boutique food makers. Maggie’s based in Boston, with frequent trips to Paris, Brooklyn, Maine, and northern California.
Website: Maggie Battista, blogger
Tags: Glou, maggie, Marais, Restaurants Paris
Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 10 Comments »
We dined here last night, very good, really enjoyed it. Sat on large table for ten perched at one end, loved the food, fish was cooked to perfection. Hadn’t booked ahead so were lucky to get in, thanks for recommendation!
[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Kathe Fraga, Doni Belau. Doni Belau said: Lunch at Glou in Le Marais: http://bit.ly/9ksYRD @hipparis [...]
[...] du Temple, 18ème. Tel: 01 42 74 44 32. Metro: Saint Sebastien-Froissart or Arts et Metiers). Glou is also one of my favorite spots for lunch. It’s a tad over-priced, but I always have a great [...]
[...] 5. Glou—Hip, modern, and pricey (some might say over-priced) at night, this is a cool-but-not-pretentious lunch spot. You’ll have a few choices and can opt for menus of 16€ or 20€. Going on the early side ensures they won’t run out of anything! 101, rue Vieille du Temple, 18ème. Tel: 01 42 74 44 32. Metro: Saint Sebastien-Froissart (Line 8 ) or Arts et Metiers (Lines 3 and 11). [...]
Sorry about the double comments , the first one said it did not go through , oh well now you know I really love the Marais
Love the Marais, it is my favorite part of Paris, In my dreams I would live there…… I’ve always felt so safe and at home. We rented an apartment on Rue des’ Rosiers and it was just perfect………I want to go back sooooooo much. Love your blog
Oh I just love the Marais, it is my favorite place in Paris, in my dreams I would live there, I seemed to always be getting lost in those streets which kind of made it more fun……. I so want to go back.
I had a wonderful lunch here this summer. A real Cesar Salad with grilled chicken and slices of Parmesan. And the peasant bread was thick, crusty and soft in the middle. A meal in itself. The organic coffee was wonderful (rare in Paris). I do suggest lunch here over dinner as dinner is very pricey. Also, they have amazing wine by the glass, but be careful as it is expensive!
Looks sweet and delicious, the food and the restaurant!
Enjoy your nice chunk of time there, spring is around the corner!!
I’ve never been to that place…Looks great! I definitely to walk around the Marais more often