June 16, 2010
Rosa Jackson, the fabulous food writer and chef, is based in Nice where she conducts market tours and succulent Provençal cooking classes. She travels to Paris frequently (as one must) in order to keep up with the restaurant scene. Last year, she stayed at Haven in Paris’ very own Houdon flat. This lovely write-up ensued on her blog…
I have a vision of my perfect Paris apartment. It would be high up – stairs don’t scare me – with a small balcony and a sweeping view over the zinc rooftops, punctuated here and there with church spires and glimmering domes. There would be parquet floors, big windows on both sides (east and west, ideally) and a sunny kitchen that opens onto the living space. Oh, and it would have central heating.
When I first laid eyes on Erica Berman’s apartment just south of Abbesses Métro station, I felt slightly breathless. That might have had something to do with the five flights of stairs required to reach it, but it also came from the certainty that this was my dream apartment. I loved the antique table and mismatched chairs, I loved the contemporary paintings and well-tended plants, and I especially loved the vintage wooden pâtisserie sign above the kitchen, which Erica found at a market in Provence.
It’s no surprise that Erica’s flat should seem so effortlessly tasteful, given that she is the owner of the hippest apartment rental agency around: Haven in Paris. I first met Erica when she came to do one of my food tours in Nice, and I immediately realized that we had many things in common: our love of Paris, Provence and Italy (especially Liguria), our fondness for off-the-beaten track bed-and-breakfasts, and our insatiable curiosity about new Paris restaurants.
When I dropped by her Paris apartment before a meal at the nearby bistro Le Cul de Poule (here is a report on the Haven in Paris blog), she beckoned me onto the balcony for a glass of Italian wine. Erica has lived in Paris for 17 years and there is almost nothing she doesn’t know about the city, as proved by her frequently updated blog. We chatted about good and not-so-good meals she has had in the Pigalle and Montmartre area: her current favorites are Le Miroir (94 rue des Martyrs, 18th) and Guilo Guilo (8 rue Garreau, 18th), the second run by a renowned chef from Kyoto.
Last November I had a chance to stay at Erica’s apartment for a few days while she was away in Brooklyn – she has cleverly organized her life so that she can live in different countries throughout the year. I knew that I could expect comfort, since Erica doesn’t buy into the it’s-rustic-because-it’s-Paris philosophy: the bathroom fittings are modern, the plumbing works impeccably, and the bed piled with pillows reminded me of a luxury hotel. But nothing could have prepared me for the sunset. I was happily working on my computer at the dining table when the sky started to glow, first pink and then orange, with steel-grey clouds drifting across this tableau that gradually dimmed to shades of blue and purple. From then on I made sure to be at the apartment at the end of the day for the nightly spectacle.
Each morning, I made it my mission to find the best baguette in the neighborhood – and there are many to choose from. I sent Erica an e-mail raving about crunchy-crusted, chewy-centered baguette à l’ancienne at Le Grenier à Pain (38 rue des Abbesses, 18th), and she wrote back saying: “try the boule de pain au levain at Au Levain d’Antan (6 rue des Abbesses, 18th) at the top of my street (if it is warm jump on it!), don’t get it cut and then eat with salted butter… it is the BEST.” I might never have noticed this loaf without Erica’s prompting, but I followed her instructions to the letter and the boule was a revelation. Calories were not an issue, since I had worked them off just by running out to pick up the bread.
I also became enamored with the épicerie Lion (7 rue des Abbesses, 18th) at the end of her street. A newer branch of the charmingly cluttered Graineterie du Marché facing the place d’Aligre market, this bright, airy space is filled with the finest French food products – everything from rice pudding kits complete with candied violets or crystallized rose petals to herbal infusions from Gérald Passédat, the celebrated chef of Le Petit Nice in Marseille. Showing great restraint, I bought only a mix of dried seaweeds from chef Olivier Roellinger in Brittany – these can be used in vinaigrettes or in a bouillon for fish or shellfish (I’ve also added them to potatoes mashed with salted Breton butter).
Walking around the neighborhood, I came across this little square with a wall dedicated to romance. “Love is chaotic,” it says, “so let’s love.” It reminded me that, no matter how long I might have lived in Paris, the city still holds many secrets.
Erica now manages about 30 apartments in Paris, many of which have been gutted and decorated under her supervision. She especially likes Montmartre for its villagey feel and its light-filled, top-floor apartments with their stunning views of the city – but, wherever the apartment, she always looks for plenty of charm combined with modern comforts. She will only work with owners who comply with her strict standards, which include high-speed internet access, flat-screen TVs and free international phone calls.
Owning a Paris apartment like Erica’s will probably remain a dream (at least for a while), but staying there for a few days was the next best thing. Months later, I’m stilldreaming of that boule de levain.
- Fabulous vacation apartment rentals in Paris: Haven in Paris
- HiP Paris’ write-ups of Cul de Poule bistrot in Montmartre
- Rosa Jackson’s Food Blog
- The Paris Apartment writes up Erica
- Marjorie Taylor’s Cooks Atelier Food Blog
- Finding the perfect vacation rental apartment
- Hip Paris interviews Interior Decorator Claudia Strasser on French flea-market technique
Written by Rosa Jackson
Rosa Jackson is a Canadian-born food writer and cooking teacher based in Nice and Paris. After ten years in Paris, where she wrote about restaurants for a number of guidebooks and magazines and founded the company Edible Paris. She now spends most of her time in Nice where she teaches Provençal cooking in her home. She spends a few days every month in Paris keeping up with restaurants, conducting food tours, and sampling the finest patisseries and chocolates.
Website: Rosa Jackson
Tags: Abbesses, Amelie, baguette, Boulangerie, cooking classes, Cul de Poule, Erica Berman, Food tours, Food tours Nice, Houdon, Interior Decor, Market tours, Montmartre, Real Estate, Restaurant Scene, Rosa Jackson
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