As the crowds disperse and the crisp autumn air finally descends, November in Paris is a great place for those seeking a quieter time. Even if it is low season, you will still have your choice of events, exhibitions and things to do in Paris this month. Not to forget, fall foliage would be in its full glory in the early half of this month.

November is the best time to experience Paris in a different light, quite literally. It is the time of year when you can witness the magical transformation of Paris as it prepares for the festive season, leading up to the holidays and New Year in December. Just a couple more weeks until Christmas! But who’s counting right?

If you are worried about shorter days in fall, there will be a ton of twinkling lights and some of the most stunning Christmas decorations that will more than make up for it. Imagine sipping hot chocolate by the now-iconic giant Christmas tree display of Galeries Lafayette or taking a charming carousel ride in one of Paris’s many Christmas markets!

Left: man walking past a wall covered with autumn foliage in Montmartre, Right: a statue surrounded by autumn foliage in Jardin du Luxembourg
Top and above: Pronoti Baglary

Weather in November

After the unseasonably warm months of September and October this year, the temperatures have finally dipped to what fall weather is normally like: which mean, chilly weather and couple of days of rain, interspersed by much needed sunny days. Average temperatures in Paris this month are around 17-11°C. If you plan on wearing your chic trench coats, make sure to bundle up with additional warm layers and get your waterproof shoes ready, to combat the rainy weather.

Public holiday in France

The Toussaints school holiday takes place across France between October 22 to November 5 in 2023, with All Saints Day falling on November 1. Flights and trains are likely to be more expensive, not to mention more crowded on those days, so travelling in and out of Paris should generally be avoided where possible.

The other public holiday this month is Armistice Day on November 11, which is a national holiday marked with solemn ceremonies across France. This includes the French President laying a wreath of the The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Arc de Triomph. Some museums or monuments may be closed or have limited hours on this day. Public holidays can also affect restaurant and business hours, so do take note.

Here are some highlights of the best things to do in Paris this month.

Shows and events

Automne tropical- Jardin des Plantes, October 18 – November 27, 2023

If you can’t get enough of fall colours, join in as this exhibition presents the diversity of plants and foliage, and discusses how plants adapt to changing environments. The gorgeous greenhouses of the Jardin des Plantes makes for an ethereal setting for the event.

The inside of the greenhouses of the Jardin des Plantes in Paris, full of trees and an orchid event is ongoing
Greenhouse of the Jardin des Plantes by Pronoti Baglary

Paris Autumn Festival- September – December 2023

With 72 partner venues in and around the French capital, this year’s edition of Paris Autumn Festival or Festival d’Automne showcases a diverse array of performances and events, spanning from theatre, dance and music to visual arts and cinema.

L’Odyssée Immersive- L’Atelier des Lumière Océans, 20 October 2023 – 7 January 2024

Prepare to be awestruck and inspired, by this extraordinary exploration of the aquatic world. The immersive experience will showcase exceptional photos by celebrated photographer Brian Skerry, who has spent 10,000 hours underwater over the past 40 years.

Disney celebrates its 100th anniversary- Paris Défense Arena, 11 & 12 November 2023

Fall is also a great time to visit Disneyland Paris, with fewer crowds as well as the cool November weather making it a great day trip from Paris. And this is a special year for Disney as it is going to be celebrating a 100-years of magic and adventure in style, with a philharmonic orchestra of more than 100 musicians, 350 chorus members, dancers, solo singers, official Disney voices, rock and jazz bands, at Europe’s largest concert hall.

New Beaujolais Festival- Thursday, 16 November 2023

The third Thursday of November every year is when Beaujolais Nouveau, a vibrant red wine from the Beaujolais region is released. This day is steeped in tradition. Many events are held across France to celebrate this occasion of uncorking the first Beaujolais of the year. Do visit your local bar on this day. Chances are, they would be celebrating the first Beaujolais too.

Paris Photo 2023- Grand Palais Éphémère, November 9- November 12, 2023

This event is set to be a flurry of exhibitions, conversations, artist signature sessions and curated shows. Paris Photo 2023 is your place to be if you love photography, or want to keep abreast of all the latest trends, equipment and technology.

Left: red wine being poured into a glass, Right: a cafe in Montmartre paris with chairs
Left: Ksenia Chernaya; Right: Pronoti Baglary

Marie Claire Idées- Salon Créations & Savoir-Faire- Porte de Versailles, November 29 – December 3, 2023

For all the crafty DIY lovers in Paris, this year’s edition of the Créations et Savoir-Faire promises to showcase a ton of inspirations from diverse domains, including fabrics, jewellery designing, scrapbooking and even in creative foods. Basically, any and every DIY hobby you can think of, they have materials and workshops for that. 

Sports & Games

Rolex Paris Masters- Accord Arena, 28 October-5 November 2023

The indoor-hard ATP Masters 1000 tournament was established in 1986 for male tennis players. Since then, some of the world’s best tennis players have competed in this tournament held annually in the city of Paris. This year, top players set to attend include Novak Djokovic, Carlos Alcaraz, Daniil Medvedev, and defending champion Holger Rune.

Paris Games Week- Porte de Versailles, November 1 – November 5, 2023

This event will have manufacturers, publishers as well as game studios coming together to offer all things video-game related.  With a wide array of games to discover, along with cosplay events and panel discussions, Paris Games Week is an ideal outing for gamers.

Exhibitions

Bollywood Superstars: History of an Indian cinema- Le Musée du Quai Branly,  26 September 2023 -14 January 2024

This exhibition is not to be missed if you love movies or Bollywood. It brings together works of art, historical objects and projections on the big screen through an immersive scenography.

Left: the interiors of Musée du Quai Branly, Right: an exhibition at Musée du Quai Branly
Musée du Quai Branly by Pronoti Baglary

Zidane, un portrait du XXIe siècle- Paris Philharmonic, October 5, 2023 – January 7, 2024.

With 17 giant screens, artists Douglas Gordon and Philippe Parreno create a multidimensional and poetic football match. The performance has especially designed the sounds to immerse the audiences in the depth of the action on the field. This off-beat experience in honour of one of the best footballer of our times, is a must for sports fans.

Nicolas de Staël- Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, September 15, 2023- January 21, 2024

Nicolas de Staël (1914-1955) is a key figure in the post-war French art scene. This exhibition showcases 200 of his paintings, drawings, engravings and notebooks, along with his masterpieces, taking a fresh look at Staël’s life and work.

Mark Rothko- Foundation Louis Vuitton, 18 October, 2023- 4 February, 2024

This show brings together 115 of Rothko’s work curated from institutions such as National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Tate in London. This retrospective is a great opportunity to discover various trajectories of the artist’s career.

Gertrude Stein and Pablo Picasso- Musée du Luxembourg, September 13, 2023 – January 28, 2024

Discover the extraordinary friendship of two of the greatest icons of the art world, at Musée du Luxembourg. Every Monday evening, you can also attend a reading cycle and performances designed by Ludovic Lagarde celebrating Stein’s literary work. A great way to finish a walk at the Luxembourg gardens!

Left: The inside of Musée du Luxembourg, Right: A leaflet of the Pablo Picasso and Gertrude Stein exhibition
Photo courtesy of Musée du Luxembourg

Doppelganger! By Knebl & Scheirl- Palais de Tokyo, 19 October 2023 -7 January 2024

Jakob Lena Knebl and Ashley Hans Scheirl invite the public to explore “spaces of desire,” through various installations. The exhibition takes places in the basement of Palais de Tokyo. And its brutalist architecture has been interwoven by the artists as a striking backdrop for the presentation.

Christmas Festivities Begin in Paris

One of the best parts of Paris at the end of November, is its magical transformation, as the city prepares for Christmas and the New Year.

Window displays and decorations

Starting around the middle of November, the city of light will be adorned by Christmas decorations, done with very distinct Parisian flair. Some of the larger department stores, and luxury labels in Paris truly go out of the way with their designs.

Some of the spots not to miss for Christmas decorations are:

  • Avenue des Champs-Elysées
  • Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
  • Place Vendôme
  • Avenue Montaigne
  • Window displays at Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann
  • Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche
The facade of the Gucci store in Paris being decorated for Christmas
Christmas Decorations in Paris by Pronoti Baglary

Paris Christmas Markets

Christmas markets start popping open in Paris by the end of November. Generally, the first to open are the larger markets. Many smaller Christmas markets set up shop only in the beginning of December. But there’s already plenty of options here. Here are some of the marché de Noel that begin in November:

  • Christmas Market at the Jardin des Tuileries: Tuileries Garden – Place de la Concorde, Paris 75001
  • Notre Dame Christmas Market
  • Alsatian Christmas Market: Gare de l’Est – on the rue d’Alsace side, Paris 75010
  • Abbess Christmas Market: From November 24, 2022 to January 2, 2023
  • Place des Abbesses, Paris 75018
Left: The christmas tree displayed at Galeries Lafayette, Right: the roof of Galeries Lafayette
Galeries Lafayette by Pronoti Baglary

With fewer tourists, November is a good time to visit Paris if you don’t mind the cooler temperatures and a dash of rain. So, whether you’re sipping vin chaud in a cozy bistro, admiring art in the Louvre, or simply gazing at the Eiffel Tower against the pretty fall sky, Paris this time of the year promises a memorable adventure.

Written by Pronoti Baglary. Looking to travel? Check out Plum Guide and our Marketplace for fabulous vacation rentals in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long or short term, or buy in France? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates or click here. Looking to bring France home to you or to learn online or in person? Check out our marketplace shop and experiences.

WRITTEN BY

Pronoti Baglary

Pronoti is a freelance writer and photographer based in Paris. Having had an academic training in Sociology, she is interested in everything related to culture & society: languages, arts, literature and technologies. She writes about food, lifestyle, travel, architecture, as well as musings about her life as an expat in Paris. Her work has been published on platforms like Urbansider, Bonjour Paris and Fodors.

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