Sarzana details

I’ll just put it right out there: I love Liguria, and centrally situated Genoa is the perfect home base from which to delve into and savor Liguria’s many enchanting qualities and seaside cities. A maritime marvel, La Superba (the proud or the haughty, as it was once known) rivaled Venice as a powerful city-state for over 500 years. And while the splendor of its storied past as a seafaring legend is evident in the magnificent UNESCO-protected Strade Nuove and Palazzi dei Rolli, Genoa’s real charm is its present-day incarnation as a working port city.

Cinqueterre

This is a city that doesn’t bend over backwards to market itself to tourists. The result is an authentic Italian metropolis, more accustomed to the visiting Milanese than Manhattanite. As a traveler who thrives on finding and experiencing those places that aren’t (yet) teeming with fellow Americans, Genoa is a joy for me. Plus, I’m a sucker for labyrinthine medieval lanes, which Genoa has in spades.

A statue in Genoa

Genoa is a unique pleasure to explore.

I have fond memories of wandering Genoa’s intriguing medieval old town by day, the largest in Europe. Just as one must get lost in Venice to properly know and love it, losing yourself in the Genovese alleyways or “carrugi” is key to becoming familiar with the city and its character. In this way I happened upon both silent squares and those bursting with the bustle of daily life, tiny Chiesa di San Matteo and grand Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, unspeakable architectural beauty, and artisans of all kinds. Best of all were the palaces.

Genoa

Sori

By chance I was in town over Rolli Days, when the city opens the doors to many of its priceless palazzi for free to the public. Oh. My. Palazzo. And I thought Venetian palaces were grand. Some of the Rolli mansions I meandered through put Venice’s grandest of dames to shame, the latter winning only by a canal!

Genoa

The beauty of rooting yourself in Genoa for a Ligurian sojourn is that you enjoy the best of both worlds: a big city with all the corresponding perks, and proximity to the smallest and most delightful seaside towns that one could possibly imagine. Really. It doesn’t get any cuter than Liguria, as cute Italian towns go.

The beach at Cinqueterre; students in Portovenere

And don’t just limit yourself to the (rightly) celebrated Cinque Terre. I love the Five Lands, but so does every other American tourist with a dog-eared Rick Steves guidebook in hand. The same goes for glitzy Portofino. See it, but make sure you see other less touristy towns as well.

Lerici

And now to the Rivierahhh …

A thin, crescent-shaped sliver of terra firma, the Ligurian Riviera extends in one direction from Genoa toward France along the Riviera di Ponente (“the coast of the setting sun”) and in the other direction along the Riviera di Levante (“the coast of the rising sun”) to Capo Corvo and the Tuscan border.

Camogli

On this particular trip I focused on digging into the Levante, with day trips by boat, train, and bus to places that most Americans have never heard of, even if they’ve been to the nearby Cinque Terre or pretty Portofino: Bonassola, Camogli, Lerici, Tellaro, Portovenere, Sarzana, and Sori, to name a few.

Camogli

Best of these sensational day trips was the reigning peace and quiet characteristic of each town. Portovenere can get a bit clogged with fellow day-trippers (mostly Europeans), but everywhere else I went was enchantingly empty when it came to tourists. I enjoyed candid conversations about food, life, and trompe-l’oeil with laidback locals who were as tickled to talk with an American as I was to chat with them. More than anything I look forward to returning, and continuing the conversation.

Related Links:

• Want to indulge like the Genoese? Here is a recipe for traditional Genoese pesto
• In Genova In, a delightful blog on Genoese happenings
• Kasia, from Love in the City of Lights, visits Vernazza

Written by Marisa Williams for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Marisa Williams. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

One and Only Paris Photography

Most brides obsess over something. Will the flowers look right? Will my dress fit after the alterations? Will the DJ play YMCA (even though I begged him not to)? Will Dad’s wife get smashed and ruin the reception?

And then there’s the mother of all bridal worries — the one none of us can control and yet endlessly fret over: the weather.

One and Only Paris Photography

We planned our wedding at a French chateau in May knowing full well that the weather could not be counted on – not in May or any other time of year. (This is France, after all). And so, with a million and one concerns filling my bride-addled brain, I focused on rain. Will it or won’t it? And what will we do if?

One and Only Paris Photography

Despite my obsession, there was no time to lose: A hundred plus guests were descending on Paris from locales as far flung as San Francisco and Sarajevo. Everything had to be perfect and I had to oversee it all. I’d spent my first year here planning every last detail. If I could just get everyone from Paris down to the chateau in Burgundy, surely the festivities would all come off without a hitch?

One and Only Paris Photography

La Degustation. Some of our guests had never been to France, let alone sipped perfectly aged Burgundy in the stone-walled cave of a 16th century castle. So the chateau owner (a bonhomme extraordinaire), offered us something special: to host a candlelit wine tasting before our rehearsal dinner, the perfect way to get newly arrived friends in the spirit of events to come. Sublime!

Flower Factor & Pygment_shots

Les Fleurs. Little about planning our wedding followed the traditional formula but there were some aspects that had to be right. So when the chateau florist turned out to be the woman who lived next door and grew her blooms in her own garden, I felt a tad uneasy. After hours scouring magazines and forwarding endless images of blossoming bouquets, she proceeded to ignore me and do what the French do best: Create something beautiful. When I laid eyes upon her perfect peonies and ravishing roses, I realized I’d had nothing to fear.

Idhren

Le Coiffeur et le Maquillage. An up do or natural(ish) waves? Professional make-up or DIY? I decided – perhaps unwisely – to go with the Parisian pros, who favored shall we say, a somewhat theatrical wedding look. With my hair swept into a gravity-defying chignon, I sat down for make-up grasping a glass of champagne and what little remained of my frayed nerves. When my best friend shot me a look of horror halfway through the session, I knew it was time to scrub my mug and start fresh. With two sisters and a bevy of bridesmaids on-hand, we managed to salvage my face in time for the wedding bells.

One and Only Paris Photography

Le Mariage: A hundred buttons fastened and trailing veil in hand, I descended the chateau steps to my awaiting carriage, complete with white horse and top hatted driver. Our ceremony was held next to the chateau, in the village’s ancient church complete with worn wooden pews, stained glass windows and the scent of spring blooms and dusty Gallic history. As my dad took my arm and escorted me past dozens of beloved faces, my French wedding fantasies fell away in favor of a moment that was simply perfect.

One and Only Paris Photography

The celebration that followed in the chateau’s grand salon carried on into the small hours. We dined on foie gras and blanquette de veau, sipped champagne and swilled cases of Burgundy. Of course, not everything went exactly as planned. The DJ did play YMCA (flashing me a wink as he threw his arms toward the vaulted ceiling). And Dad’s wife? Well, that’s another story.

One and Only Paris Photography

Our night ended with a blazing bonfire on the grass and elegantly dressed guests coupled under the stars. For both bride and groom, a magical night in the French countryside — with nary a cloud or raindrop in sight.

• Are you planning a wedding in Paris? We recommend…
• Parisian Events and Rendez-Vous in Paris to help you plan
• … and One & Only Paris Photography to help you capture the wonderful moments

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Sunny, sweet success! After carefully planning a Côte d’Azur getaway in 2010 and being thwarted by an angry Eyjafjallajökull, I finally managed to reach Nice on a fresh attempt nearly a year and a half later. And oh là là, was it ever worth the wait.

I’d been to the French Riviera before — Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, Villefranche, Monte Carlo — but not to Nice and never for long enough to really dig in, explore, and feel at home. So this was my glorious two-week opportunity and I intended to make the most of it from a home base in the charming, tangled streets of the colorful Old Town (known locally as Vieille Ville or Vieux Nice).

Nice is nice. Really nice. Really.

Old Nice was just as lovely as all the pictures and write-ups lead you to believe, only more so. The painterly churches and architecture of all kinds, featuring shuttered windows and trompe-l’oeil surprises are more than mere eye candy — it’s guilt-free dessert for the soul! Which is pretty handy given all the ice cream, gelato, and tempting local treats on hand around every corner. And as corners go, one street was sweeter or more brilliant than the next. But after 12 days I whittled down my favorite flavors to a short stretch near the top of the Old Town where a seemingly single building melted effortlessly from lemon yellow into burnt orange, then a rusty red, and finally a pale peach with celadon shutters, door, and matching mailbox. Truly a Technicolor work of art, Vieux Nice.

When I wasn’t snacking on socca, salted caramel crêpes, Niçoise salads, Fenocchio ice cream, or the most amazing variety of vegetables and other delights seasoned to perfection à la Provençale, I was trekking up to the top of Castle Hill (Colline du Château), tucking into the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC), shopping for local art and other items you can only find in Nice, or soaking up the sun and people-watching à la plage. And beyond that, I was taking the most enchanting day trips to nearby towns, both inland and along the coast.

Day tripping along the Côte d’Azur is easy.

I chose not to rent a car and relied instead on public transportation for all of my day trips. Connecting via tram, train, and/or bus from Nice made exploring the region an easy, affordable pleasure. The public buses in particular are cheap and clean and offer extensive routes. From Nice’s main bus depot (the Gare Routière) I whisked away to Vence, St. Paul de Vence, Grasse, Villefranche, Èze, Antibes, Menton, and even nearby Monaco. For farther flung destinations like Entrevaux or Cassis I took the train.

It’s hard to pinpoint the highlight from such an exceptional collection of day trips; I’d recommend each enthusiastically and without hesitation. But my top three would have to be Grasse, Èze, and Cassis, if pressed. The perfumed shops and Fragonard museum in Grasse blew my mind. I’m not much into perfume, but I found myself snapping up scented soaps and other goodies by the bagful at Fragonard. The exotic garden at Èze overlooking the sea was unspeakably beautiful and moving. You must go. I beseech you. There’s no way to understand how amazing the village and the garden are without visiting yourself. And finally, the coup de grâce: a stroll through Cassis and a three-hour boat tour of the Calanques — a picturesque limestone range of coastal nooks, crannies, and dramatic, soaring cliffs that stretches from Cassis to Marseille, dotted with cheerful pine trees. I can’t wait to go back and wander around on foot. À bientôt Calanques de Cassis, j’espère!

Related Links:

• Want more? Check out the rest of Marisa’s gorgeous Nice & Cote d’Azur shots here
• For some daily Nice inspiration, check out the Nice Daily Photo blog
• Pret à Voyager elaborates on Nice’s specialty: Socca

Written by Marisa Williams for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Marisa Williams. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Here at HiP, we’re always up for a good expat adventure tale, particularly one in which desserts play a starring role. In her new book, Paris, My Sweet, food writer (and regular HiP Paris contributor!) Amy Thomas regales us with stories from her two-year stint in Paris, where she wrote advertising copy for Louis Vuitton by day and scoured the city for sweets in her spare time.

All in all, it sounds like a pretty ideal existence, but like all expats in Paris, Amy faced a typical series of ups and downs. It’s no surprise that she fell hard for the city upon arrival; and it’s also no surprise that, once the initial Parisian shine wore off, Amy ultimately came to see the city’s not-quite-so-sweet side. It’s at this point that the story really starts to ring true for those of us who have been expats in Paris: you’re simultaneously charmed and alienated, comforted and challenged, energized and exhausted.

Paris, My Sweet; Takashi

As Amy weathered the highs and lows of expat life, she also covered serious ground in the dessert department, hitting all of Paris’ confectionary hotspots and sampling the city’s most decadent delights. This book is not only an account of her time in Paris, but also a goldmine of bonnes addresses (in both Paris and New York) for dessert lovers. This woman knows her way around a pâtisserie, and serious sugar-high seekers would do well to heed Amy’s recommendations.

Paris, My Sweet is a guidebook of sorts, but it’s also just a fun and decadent read—I devoured it in less than 48 hours, pausing only to scrounge up some chocolate now and again. In addition to making me hungry, Amy’s writing transported me back to Paris, a trip I am ever-eager to make, if only vicariously.

Evocateur

Below, I caught up with the author to talk Paris, pastries, and ultimately picking her favorite city.

You’re a dessert fiend, so tell us—what’s the main difference between American sweets and the Parisian variety?

American baking is a lot more creative and crazy, but at the same time, it’s a lot simpler. As amazing as everything was in Paris, it was so decadent. I definitely missed the American classics, like cookies and brownies, while I was there.

In your book, you recount dozens of sweet experiences in Paris. But if you had to recommend just one sugar-centric destination, what would it be?

It’s so subjective, but I would probably say Stohrer on Rue Montorgueil. It was my neighborhood bakery, but it’s also a beautiful, historic bakery. You can find anything you want there: chocolate, viennoiseries, cakes, tarts, savory stuff.  Everything they do is amazing.

Waitscm; H3_six

And aside from the desserts, what do you miss most about Paris now that you’re back in New York?

Definitely the Vélibs. When I go back to Paris to visit, that’s one of the things that makes me feel so alive—biking around the city. It’s just so fun. And I miss those days when you just start walking, and you walk all day because it’s so pretty and enchanting. You just want to keep going and soaking it up.

Your book details the culture shock you experienced as you adjusted to Paris. Did you have reverse culture shock when you ultimately returned to New York?

The first six to eight months back in New York were hard, because everything felt very harsh here. Paris is a big city too, but things are slower and there’s an appreciation for some of the more indulgent things in life. So coming back to New York was like a slap in the face, but after a while, I felt totally happy—especially once the weather warmed up.

Simon Goldenberg

So now that you’ve had some time to compare and contrast, what’s the verdict—Paris or New York?

New York is definitely home. I’m happier and more at peace here, even though there are things about Paris that I miss deeply. I sometimes get teary thinking about Paris and what I had there. The great thing is, I now have this connection to Paris. It became part of me.

And what about your cat, who has now lived on both sides of the Atlantic. Which city does he prefer?

I adopted him in New York, so I think he’s happy here. But he had a pretty kick-ass setup in Paris—lots of space and a sunny window perch that overlooked the rooftops. I’m sure he misses that.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Related Links:

• Buy Amy Thomas’ book Paris, My Sweet on Amazon now!
• Paris Patisseries also has a great list of Paris’ 38 Best Pastries
• Check out Amy’s Paris blog here
• For tips on the best pastries to be found in Paris and New York, check out Amy’s Sweet Freak blog

After half a day in the airport, a canceled flight and a sleepless passage over the ocean, I expected my children to nap away our first day in the City of Lights. But the magic of Paris revived us and it was 11 p.m., admiring the fire dancers at Le Sacre Coeur when my son said, “Mom, can I get an ‘I love Paris’ t-shirt? ‘Cause I really love Paris.”

A dream destination for every traveler, Paris is rarely considered a haven for families. I’d like to challenge that assumption. The first concern is usually cost. While not cheap, Parisian retreats are about the same price as a trip to Disney World. Most people think Disney World is a reasonable goal, but why visit Epcot when you can indulge in the real locale?

Deals on flights are everywhere; all museums in France are free for those 18 and under; public transportation is inexpensive and most importantly, an apartment rental saves a fortune over hotel accommodations.

Ahem, this is the moment I need to make a disclaimer that Haven in Paris isn’t compensating me in any way. I begged them to let me write about our incredible experience with HIP.

My family spent a marvelous week in HIP’s gorgeous Champs Elysées; everything from the darling girl who met us at the apartment to the plush bedding, was perfect. We gazed at the Arc de Triomphe from our window and the Metro stop was literally right outside the front door. The location made transportation easy and delightful. Adults might find subways tedious, but for kids riding the Metro is part of the adventure. My boys loved navigating the family throughout the city and the 5-day Visite pass is a steal.

An enormous benefit of apartment rental is the full kitchen. We visited two markets, filled the cupboards and prepared nearly every meal in the kitchen. Foodies might be horrified, but with the exception of visiting creperies, we didn’t eat out once during our stay. The selection and quality of food in the French grocery stores is exceptional; we didn’t feel deprived for a moment (ooh, I’d love to spoon into some French yogurt right now or crack open a baguette from the local bakery).

The French government believes firmly in the education of children and opens every museum and monument to those under 18 free of charge: the Louvre, Musee d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou, Napoleon’s Tomb, etc. I almost felt guilty strolling through turnstiles with my six freebies in tow. Exclaiming with joy each time they saw a painting from their textbook, my children devoured the museums and delighted in practicing their public school French.

Some may think kids won’t appreciate Paris. Rather, it’s a grand opportunity to inspire kids to educate themselves. Gazing at the mirrors in Versailles prompts questions about European History;

visiting L’Orangerie develops a love for Impressionist art (my two older boys visited it five times during our one week stay),

and ambling down the Champs d’Elysees stirs every Yankee to learn French.

When tired legs need a respite from museums, les Tuileries are replete with playgrounds and carnival rides.

Beyond education or dining, the most important element of a family vacation is time, sweet time, to enjoy each other’s laughter, conversation and moments of delight. And Paris, beautiful Paris, gifted us a week of pure magic.

Related Links:

• To keep up with Michelle and her beautiful family, check out her blog, Scenes from the Wild
• Ciao Bambino also has some great tips for families traveling to Paris
• Looking for a place to stay with your family? Check out our lovely Paris vacation rental apartments

Written by Michelle Lehnardt for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Michelle Lehnardt. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

“I’ve just been offered a job in Paris,” my boyfriend of one year announced. “I won’t even consider it if you’re going to rule out coming with me…”

Huh? Definitely an invitation, not quite a proposal. So what’s a young, gainfully employed, woman-in-love to do?

Quit her job, pack her bags and move to Paris, of course!

Fast forward six months. Newly engaged and living in the Marais, we spend weekends scouring flea markets for second-hand furniture and sipping cheap red wine on our sixth-floor terrace. It’s great. But with Greg off at work and a scant hour of French per week on my calendar, it quickly becomes clear: I need a project.

I decide to get serious about planning our wedding.

Le chateau: I spot the photo in the back of a French bridal magazine; Chateau des Conde, in the village of Vallery about 90 minutes south of Paris. We call ahead and arrange to visit. The village is French country perfection: a sleepy town center with a church, boulangerie, one restaurant, a bar/tabac and a post office. Summer vines climb stone walls and window boxes spill with blooms. We haven’t even laid eyes on the chateau yet but I’m already falling hard.

Chateau owner, architect Patrice Vansteenberghe, welcomes us with champagne that we sip as we tour the grounds. The chateau dates back to the 12th century, boasts 22 rooms to host our future guests and a reception salon designed by the architect responsible for the Cour Carree at the Louvre. By the time we see the room where Lenny Kravitz and Vanessa Paradis holed up for a month scribbling lyrics, we’re more than ready to let love rule (and hand over the hefty deposit). After several more glasses of champagne, dinner with Patrice’s chic weekend guests, and an impromptu overnight in the Kravitz suite, visions of a wedding bash are dancing in my head.

Le menu: Supreme de volaille or blanquette de veau? Brouilly, Beaujoulais or Bordeaux? So many choices, so much free time. It’s enough to push a budding Bridezilla completely over the edge. Enter Olivier Casanovas, caterer extraordinaire. Our menu degustation at his fab Neuilly apartment is as lovely as a wedding soiree, complete with crystal goblets, endless dishes to sample and even a fluffy bichon to nibble the scraps. We’re in good hands; the wedding feast will more than uphold its country’s gastronomic rep. But will I?

La robe: A three-day wedding celebration complete with wine tasting in a medieval cave and a poolside cocktail reception. At a chateau. In France. Perhaps this is all getting to be the teensiest bit too much? No turning back now. Guests had been alerted, plane tickets purchased. It was high time I found a dress. After failed visits to Paris bridal outposts Pronuptia and Galleries Lafayette, I find My Dress in a tucked away shop in the 4eme chez designer Suzanne Ermann. One custom dress, a floor-sweeping veil, satin heels, a wrap, hand-beaded necklace, and a pair of elbow length satin gloves later, I was ready. Well, almost.

With our May date fast approaching, my wedding planning book is beginning to resemble the King James Bible (and is, of course, no less sacred). And yet, critical details remain: civil ceremony, music, flowers, officiant, vows, and seating plans — not to mention my horse-drawn carriage.

Can I pull it all together before our (one hundred plus) guests arrive?

Stay tuned for Paige’s follow up post to hear all about the big day!

Related Links:

• Are you planning a wedding in France? Rendez-vous in Paris can help you plan your perfect French wedding.
• Kim from Parisian Party, a fabulous wedding planner herself, comments on how to choose a wedding planner in France.
• For gorgeous wedding photography or Paris engagement shots, check out One & Only Paris Photography

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by One and Only Paris Photography. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

You’re about to realize your dream: living in Paris for a month. You found an apartment, booked your flight, and learned how to ask for les toilettes.

You imagine strolling through the city, taking in the sights, hanging out at cafés, and being…Parisian.  Of course, part of the fun of travel is making new friends. As much as we love French hospitality, local Parisians and expats aren’t always hanging out in cafés looking for tourists to befriend. If your plan was to strike up conversation with the local artists over espresso at your neighborhood bistrot, you might want to think up a slightly more elaborate back-up plan. Just in case.

Michel NGUYEN; Yuwen Teo

Plus, maybe your idea of Paris includes escaping the tourist traps and discovering truly local haunts – great live music at an otherwise unassuming dive bar, or a fantastic meal at your neighborhood restaurant. With a dash of creativity, there are plenty of original ways to meet people and experience a little of the true Paris. Here are a few ideas:

Gael Sagueton

• Jim Haynes’ Sunday dinners. Jim Haynes, an American ex-pat, has been holding Sunday dinner at his apartment in the 14^th arrondissement for 30 years. You will meet plenty of Americans, but also people from France and other countries. Make your reservation early, as Jim’s apartment is small and can only hold about 50 people. If it’s a warm and clear night, he’ll accept more people as the crowd spills outside. After making a reservation, contact Jim on Sunday morning to get his building code and plan to arrive at 8 pm sharp. A donation is suggested, but you don’t need to bring anything else.
• CouchSurfing. This organization connects locals who have a little extra sleeping space with travelers looking for a place to stay for free. Beyond finding a cheap place to rest your head, it’s also a great way to meet locals and see a city through their eyes. CouchSurfing has groups in most major cities; the Paris group is very active, with over 60,000 members. Every Monday night, Parisian members meet at The Lions pub for trivia night and in the summertime, picnics are organized in parks all over the city. On any given day, you can find half dozen things to do: meet someone to go sightseeing, attend a party at someone’s home, join a vegetarian brunch… Once you sign up, go to the Paris group page to connect with locals and travelers looking for things to do in Paris.

Christophe Verdier

• Practice your Franglish. Franglish (it’s actually called that) is a group of French and English speakers that meets every week in Paris. The concept is kind of like speed-dating-meets-language-lessons over drinks, but rather than dating, it’s a way to make friends. You first chat with one person for 7 minutes in French, followed by 7 minutes in English. You switch partners and languages several times and recent transplants will be happy to know that your French doesn’t have to be perfect.
• Join organizations or volunteer. The American Library in Paris, the largest English-language library in Europe, puts together a number of events and opportunities for expats to mingle, including author readings, discussions, art and photography exhibits, and a book club that meets monthly. They’re also always on the lookout for volunteers. Whether or not you attend worship services at the American Church in Paris, you’re welcome to partake in the yoga, karate, or Scottish dancing classes they offer, among others.

Gael Sagueton

• If you’re in Paris to get away from your fellow Americans, try the Expatriate Party – a social group for ex-pats from all over the world. They put together events such as Cinema Night, Zoo Day, Karaoke and a Sunday morning run.
• For more ideas, check out other ex-pat sites like AngloInfo Paris.

Gael Sagueton

Clearly, opportunities for mixing and mingling with locals and expats abound in Paris. If this list just filled your Paris agenda with a little too much activity, remember that there’s also nothing more Parisian than leaving room for the unexpected, as you sip an espresso on your local café terrace… Who knows what might happen!

Related Links:

• La Mom comments on the strange expat slang time warp
• Jennyphoria on the highs and lows of visa trouble in France
• Meetup.com also organizes lots of getogethers for American expats in Paris

Written by Nicole Gustin for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When I popped home to the UK in November, London was already in full festive swing with Christmas trees, festive songs and neon lights galore. Sent back with a Cadbury’s chocolate advent calendar adorned with an oversized Santa, I was ready to start the Christmas season with a bang.

Making Magique

Yet once back home across the pond, I realized Paris hadn’t joined in on the fun yet. I was ready to start in on my advent calendar and temperatures were plunging, but where were all those tell tale signs that our favorite mid-winter festival was fast approaching?

This set me thinking. What exactly is a Parisian Christmas? What happens in the cold windy days leading up to the big event? I set out on a mission to discover the seasonal delights that France’s most romantic city had to offer.

Little Brown Pen

Shopping

Although the Christmas shopping frenzy begins relatively late in Paris (thankfully, shops only step into gear at the end of November), once it gets going, it really gets going. Stores go all out with light shows and designer-crafted window displays – always tasteful, bien sur. First stop? Paris’s iconic department stores. Whilst London has toy-filled Hamleys and elegant Harrods, Paris showcases its trademark sophistication with Les Galleries Lafayette and the neighbouring Printemps, where Karl Lagerfeld’s touch marks this year’s displays: think Chanel-clad rock ‘n’ roll dolls strumming their electric guitars and 20m Christmas trees.

Conclusion: a little slow off the starting blocks, but Paris comes through in true style.
Printemps: 64, bd Haussmann, metro Havre Chaumartin
Galleries Lafayette: 40, bd Haussmann, metro Chausee d’Antin – Fayette

Little Brown Pen

Markets
December in Paris wouldn’t be complete without a good dose of Christmas markets. The stalls clustered along the Champs Elysees are beautifully situated (one of the most luxurious streets in the world all lit up with golden lights – what more could you want!) with the roaring traffic detracting only a little from the romantic scene. I highly recommended warming up with some mulled wine, nibbling on roasted chestnuts (a French Christmas favorite) and finishing it all off with a chocolate dipped apple.

Conclusion: Christmas markets are a key Parisian Christmas ingredient. They may not be big or overly original, but they are brimming with seasonal good cheer (with a little help from the steaming vin chaud).
November 19 – January 2, 2012, Avenue des Champs-Elysées to the Place de la Concorde ( Metro Champs Elysées-Clemenceau or Concorde)
For a full list of Paris’ neighborhood Christmas Markets, click here

Carams

More Christmassy excitement

What else does Paris have store for Christmas-lovers? Having diligently wandered the streets, I’ve definitely had my festive fix for 2011.  My highlights include:

-    The illuminated Ferris Wheel at the Place de la Concorde
-    The elegant lights in the cobbled rue Montorgueil
-    The giant Christmas tree outside Notre Dame cathedral
-    The temporary ice skating at Hotel de Ville
Although Christmas cheer may hit the French capital a little late, Parisians certainly know how to do the festive run-up with taste. If we’ve missed anything, please drop us a comment with your favourite Paris Christmas moments below!
Wherever you are this Christmas, I wish you all a joyeux Noël!

Stop by the Corner

Related Links:

• The NY Times has some great tips on what to do in Paris on Christmas Day
• Here’s a funny post on the French love for fake Christmas trees… truly inexplicable. 
• Paris By Mouth has a great list of restaurant recommendations open for Christmas in Paris

Written by Victoria Wall for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

The daily menu at Lantana

From Gare du Nord to St Pancras in just over two hours? Do you really need another reason to hop on the 8:13 Eurostar and spend the day in London? Vite, mes amis! Allez à Londres!

Where the delicious flat whites at Lantana are made

The key to tackling the jolly old British capital in just a day is to focus on a select few neighborhoods—and fuel up on caffeine immediately after arriving. Both can be accomplished at Lantana in Fitzrovia, a relatively quick walk west of the San Pancras train station. The toasted banana bread with blueberry butter is divine and a “flat white,” more delicious than the best café crème, will put a spring in your step all day.

Gorgeous furniture by Designer’s Guild

Once caf’ed up, head to nearby Marylebone, where the shopping is as spectacular as the architecture. A stroll down Marylebone High Street will reveal everything from colorful home accessories at Designers Guild and Emma Bridgewater to beauty supplies at Space NK and Boots.

A selection of cheese at La Fromagerie

But the real jackpot is Daunt Books. The two-story Anglo bookstore has so many great titles, along with a massive selection of travel tomes, that you’ll probably need to fortify yourself from all the browsing around the corner at La Fromagerie’s Cheese Room. This glass-walled walk-in is a stinky den of creamy delights from all over Europe. (Eat your heart out, Frenchies!)

The beautiful space at Daunt Books (Hannah Swithinbank)

Next, head south through chichi Mayfair, making your way to The Wolseley for a proper lunch. This London classic offers everything from chopped chicken salad to grilled sea bass to scones, and it’s just a few doors down from Fortnum & Mason so you can pick up pretty tea tins and other food bits and bobs for friends back in Paris.

Afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason

With your belly sated, it’s time to feed your mind on art—contemporary art at the Tate Modern. Meander south through Green Park, peek at Buckingham Palace (you’re in London, after all), and carry on through the lovely Saint James Park. London is a massively sprawling metropolis with barreling double-decker buses and hordes of tourists, but the plentiful green trees are lush and utterly transporting.

Rachel Pasch – Making Magique

Once at the Thames, hop on a river bus from the Westminster Pier to Bankside. This quick trip to the South Bank is about the price of a Tube ride but filled with sightseeing ohhs and ahhs and photo opps, and lets you off right near the museum. The Tate Modern, located in an old power station on the South Bank, is such a cool building it’s worth going just to check out the grand, sloping Turbine Hall. But do due diligence and check out modern masters such as Francis Bacon, Jenny Holzer and Anish Kapoor.

Chutneys for your pork pie at Borough Market

The day is getting precariously short but, before heading back to St Pancras, visit London’s oldest food market, Borough Market (open Thursday – Saturday). Even if you don’t pick up a chocolaty brownie or savory meat pie, or stop at the always-mobbed Monmouth Coffee, it’s a visual delight of fresh produce, fish, baked goods and local wares.

Tea jars at Lantana

Since London traffic—especially on the Tube—can be so brutal, make your way back to St Pancras. Worst case scenario, you have a little time to kill before your 20:02 train, and can take a glass of bubbly at the longest champagne bar in all of Europe, located on the second level of the station. But if time is more limited, head to WHSmith and scoop up some Brit mags and Cadbury chocolates to savor back in Paris.

After such an exciting day, you may need to take a cab so you don’t miss the train! (Josh O’Sullivan)

Either way, be sure you’ve booked a Standard Premier ticket, so you can enjoy dinner, drinks and free magazines while chunneling back to gai Paree—arriving at Gare du Nord with plenty of time for un verre at Chez Jeannette.

Related Links:

• Looking for a place to stay in London? Our Chelsea vacation rental flat is impeccably located, and has its own garden!
• The London Foodie shares London foodie faves.
• For great pubs and restaurants in London, Emerald street knows the scoop.

Written by Amy Thomas for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Bonjour!

The winter months are absolutely wonderful in Paris. The lines are shorter at our favorite museums and sights, and the restaurants put their best foot forward for the locals - steak frites never tasted so good!

Since we’d rather be in Paris in December, January and February, we’re offering you an amazing opportunity on Friday, November 25, 2011.

The dining room in our Penthievre apartment

Instead of spending Black Friday* braving the crowds for lackluster deals, you can spend that day with Haven in Paris. On November 25 only, we’ll be offering amazing discounts on stays in December, January and February, including 20% off all 1-week, low season visits. Now that’s a deal to write home about… from your perfect pied-a-terre in the city of light!

The master bedroom in our Penthievre apartment

Contact us now to begin planning your Paris visit, and we look forward to finalizing all the details on November 25th.

Warmly,
Erica, Genevieve, Maggie, Ariel and Andrea
The Haven in Paris Team

Our Lagrange apartment, located on the Left Bank around the corner from Notre Dame

A few notes:

• Offers cannot be combined; we will honor the best rate.
• This discount applies to 1-week visits in most apartments from now through February 29, 2012, and excludes December 18, 2011-January 4, 2012.

All bookings must be secured with a signed rental agreement between 12:00 am-11:59 pm EST on November 25th. The sale will be honored for all emails sent to Haven in Paris during these hours; we will do our best to answer all emails promptly.

Related Links:

• To check out our Paris vacation rental apartments now, click here.
• To contact us to start planning your Paris holiday, click here.
• To take a look at our great special offers, click here.

The master bedroom in our Lagrange apartment