It can be hard to get Parisians out of Paris for a weekend. We think we want to go somewhere, but when push comes to shove it just seems so complicated that we prefer an apéro, a resto, or a leisurely dinner with friends. We save our energy for big trips to exotic and far away places. Also, being snobs, we think that anything close to Paris won’t be interesting or worth the hassle of the drive.

Bikes by Sharon’s French Country Home

This weekend I managed to make an exception to this rule. The lure of a French cottage in Normandy, a walk in the forest and a few early morning flea markets was calling me since Sharon, the cottage owner, promised all of this at less than an hour’s drive from the center of Paris. Could it be true?

Sharon’s French Country home

Tip 1. Never rent a car that you need to pick up on a Saturday afternoon in August at Gare du Nord. We waited over an hour in a long line to get the rental.

Tip 2: Never try to drive out of Paris on a Saturday afternoon from Gare du Nord – bumper-to-bumper traffic and over an hour just to get to the highway.

Typically Parisian and true to form, we  complained until (two and a half hours after leaving home) we were finally on the highway. Once ON the highway we were in Normandy in a jiffy. It was truly less than an hour!

Welcomed by Sharon and Eric with tea and friendly chatter (she is from the UK and he is French) we were thrilled we persevered despite the obstacles we encountered! A chipper jaunt in the leafy woods cheered us up after our traumatic car rental experience.

The darling cottage, located across the yard from the main French Country home, was decorated by Sharon with a sprinkle of antiques and flea market finds along with comfy beds and couches. The property included stables for two horses, the rental cottage, the gorgeous main house, a large lawn for lounging,  a patio for outdoor dining, and a potager (a herb and vegetable garden) that Sharon’s son (one of her 4 children) tends.

After a fab dinner, we were off to bed to awaken before the crack of dawn and head off to three different flea markets in surrounding villages.

Flowers in my cottage

Below are some of my brocante finds!

Brocante (little antique shop) in Normandy

Old French Magazines

Amazingly cheap French porcelaine that I should have bought

Would we do it again? In a heartbeat!

Would we stay longer? Of course!

Would we attempt the drive out of Paris again on a Saturday afternoon? Not a chance.

House on the bridge in Vernon (Normandy)

Where do you go to escape your daily grind?  Inquiring minds want to hear about your favorite weekend getaways!

Relates links:

• How to rent Sharon’s Cottage & her fab French Country Home Blog
• Do you have the Brocante bug? Tongue in Cheek does!
• Eight Great Restos in Normandy from Gourmet
• Trip Advisor off the Beaten Path Normandy

Written by Erica Berman for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

In Part 1 of this series, Erica Berman shared her most telling anecdotes about the difference between life in France and life in Italy. While most of us can only envy the lifestyle that makes intimate knowledge of those details a part of daily life, Erica’s insight into the particularities of French and Italian culture helps us live the dream. In part two, she moves beyond general life to get to the juicy stuff : how the natives operate.

Photos Erica Berman – Seafood Pasta in Italy this summer

Differences between the French and the Italians…

• Nothing is a problem for the Italians…everything is a problem for the French. I think there are numerous posts to be written on this thought… a suivre!

• Italians miss pasta and coffee when away from their beloved Italy. The French are hands down pining for bread and cheese when far from home.

Croissants in Paris

• The French do not ask personal questions. Italians ask many. The French find asking questions a sign of indiscretion, and they take the utmost pride in being discreet, sometimes to the point of ridiculous (when applying for a job they may not feel comfortable asking the salary).

• The Italians are curious and their inquiring minds want to know.  In elevators in Italy I have had personal conversations on where I’m from and why I’m in Italy with people I have never seen before and will probably never see again. In France a bonsoir or bonjour is possibly all the chatting you will get after years of being neighbors.

• Italians remember you after seeing you once. The French might, of course, remember you, I am convinced they do, but will do their very best to pretend that they have never seen you before (my corner bakery in Montmartre is in the running for longest possible non recognition of a regular customer – almost 18 years. The bread is so amazing and their complete neutrality so fascinating, I keep on going).

At the beach in Italy – Finale Ligure / Genoa

• After one or two visits to a café or shop in Genoa, not only do the staff remember me, they remember my order.  Ten months after my last visit to Genoa, the locals immediately recognize me as the La Française or l’Americana and make friendly chatter. I could spend my life in a Paris cafe before I was noticed, and to get the garçon to remember my order I would need to become a cat and have 9 lives.  In Genoa I no longer even need to speak, aside from buongiorno, when going for my morning cappuccino or to the newspaper stand. They just know.

• The Italians are forgiving when you butcher their language. They are so pleased that you are trying to speak Italian they overlook a lot of botched grammar.

Tourists relaxing in front of Eglise St Sulpice in Paris

• The Italians speak Italian to me and do not switch to English or French despite my obvious foreign status. They are invariably patient and delighted by my effort. In France, not always, but often (exceptions of course exist) they will switch to English with a non native as they are so proud that they speak your language.

• The French are truly offended if you want to buy something in their shop, restaurant, cafe or supermarket and you do not have appropriate (ie: small and exact) change. The Italians, are happy you are buying something. Basta! For example, the other day I went to but a 1€ daily paper here in Italy and realized I forgot my change purse and only had a 50€ note. I meekly offered it to the newspaper guy apologizing all the while and expecting him to yell at me and tell me to come back when I had proper change as would be the case in France (or I would have to buy 5 other newspapers to make it worth his time to change the 50). This guy? He smiled, said not a problem, gave me my 49€ in change and wished me an excellent day! I walked away with a big smile on my face just thinking about the equivalent transaction in France and the pain it would have caused.

Always on Strike … the French!

• Improper (ie: not small) change in a cab is a major insult to a French cabbie. Italian drivers, if they do not have the correct change … will ask for it from a shop or passerby, with a smile!

• The Italians seem to prepare less homemade desserts then the French, but make up for it with daily stops to the gelateria!

• Both Italians and French are equally obsessed with Soccer!

Life in both countries is fascinating and there are many observations to be made. What about you, readers – do you have any cultural anecdotes (about France, Italy, Europe, and beyond!) to share?

• Erica’s Life in Italy vs France Part 1
• David Lebovitz eats his way through Rome, Italy
• Cultural Differences Italy vs US by John Talbott on Bonjour Paris

Written by Erica Berman for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Esellee

I was lucky enough to live in Paris earlier this year. During my time in one of the fairest cities, I soaked up the language, tossed back (a few too) many glasses of red and practically inhaled the food. I also wandered, a lot. I’m the sort of tourist who likes to explore the nooks and crannies, those precious spots that are forgotten on a map but hold a special magic beyond the typical grand Paris sites.

Oh, I did fit in the requisite amount of “grand” though. Naturellement! I was a trooper, performing my tourist duty by visiting all of the major Parisian landmarks, leaving my gasps and wishes in the same spots you likely did. I gazed at the Eiffel Tower and marveled at the views from both Sacre Coeur (très vaste) and the Centre Pompidou (très spécial). I even strolled down Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, a street speckled with bright shop windows that are filled with tiny sparkling items more valuable than my not-as-tiny house in the States.

I saw it all, hoping I blended in among the fashionable locals but knowing deep down, way deep down, that I still looked like the typical tourist – wide-eyed, a bit awestruck, mouth permanently agape, cheeks flushed from all the wine, and generally feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Supagroova,Katifisch

Alas, all that wine blushing up my skin totally gave me away. While I was living in a dream, a few unsavory locals easily spotted my tourist moves (you know, the wide-eyes, mouth agape, flushed cheeks) and attempted to weasel me with their foolish scams. I was forewarned by local friends and, fortunately, able to avoid the embarrassment. Many of my tourist brethren were not so lucky.

Luck, however, is on your side. I watched, appalled, as each tourist, high on the city of lights, repeatedly fell for scam after scam. I’m busting out the scams I discovered here so you don’t have to succumb to their same fate.

First and foremost, you must remember this key piece of information on your next stroll through central Paris: No one would sell you a real gold ring for 10 Euros. Not in Paris. Not anywhere. Not even your real grandmother would sell you a piece of 18-karat gold for 10 Euros. Just wouldn’t happen.

So when your sweet Parisian fairy godmother or godfather finds a pretty gold ring at your very feet, they’ll explain how they’re certain it belongs to you. When you insist that it isn’t, which naturally you will, they’ll start raving about how genuine the ring is and how they’ll be only too glad to sell it to you for whatever you’re willing to pay. Two words: Don’t pay. In fact, don’t bother. Just perfect a très Parisian scowl and move right on along. If they persist, shout at them, preferably in French, and, remarkably, they will vanish.

Jturn, Soumit

Now when strolling about the streets of Montmartre, especially around the gorgeousness that is Sacre Coeur, you’ll likely be on the hunt for a souvenir or two. Do me this favor. When the kindly gentlemen offer to help you mark your moment touristique with a simple string bracelet tied around your wrist, don’t accept. You may think it’s so cute and similar to the red strings worn all over Los Angeles, but after giving it away so sweetly, they’ll insist that you’ll now need to buy it, as the only way to remove it would be to cut the string (which damages the highly valuable product, I suppose). They’ll likely argue with you. It will turn into a désordre horrible. Keep in mind, these gallant men may not even ask permission; they may simply tie one on an outstretched arm. It’s just best to keep your arms to yourself and buy your souvenirs in a store.

My last sentence readily applies to this additional piece of advice I feel compelled to share. The vendors that dot the base of the Eiffel Tower are eager to move their miniature versions of the tallest building in Paris. In fact, they’ll follow you around as you gaze toward the sky, hoping to win your favor and your wallet. Here’s the tip: All of these eager salesmen likely paid just a few coins (on the Euro) for each.  When they start arguing about who has the best price and causing a general commotion to win your business, just move along. You can find the very same mini-statues in every corner shop in Paris. I hate to spoil your Parisian moment but the ones sold at the base of la dame de fer aren’t extra special.

Daniel_pfund

I’m returning to Paris soon and feel so far more prepared than before, hoping that I won’t look like the tourist that I truly am. Though I could probably live in Paris for 10 years and still look like a tourist. Well, better me than you, oui? Now you can enjoy the city of lights stress-free, while I continue to scout out scams. I’ll share more soon if you promise not to giggle when I walk down the street – wide-eyed, awestruck and, despite these little nuisances, still feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Related Links:

• Trip Advisor on ring sellers
• Virtual Tourist’s top Paris tourist traps
• How to look like a tourist in 5 easy steps

Written by Maggie Battista for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

You know how sometimes you come across a place or a person that is so totally delicious you’re torn between telling everyone about it or keeping it greedily just for yourself?  Well, that’s how I feel about Monsieur and Madame de Roumilly and their beautiful château and rose garden.

If it wasn’t all uphill, I would cycle to their home, they live in a village just above our valley.  They bought this sweet doll’s house of a château many years ago and have single-handedly restored it and created gardens that people come from afar to visit.

I adore their old greenhouse with it’s unusual rounded roof and generous roses climbing all over.

When Madame was creating the gardens, she wanted an idea for planting up a field; she thought of the very catholic theme of heaven, purgatory and hell!

Not one to be easily scared, she researched plants worldwide to fit into her theme.  The result?  A fascinating walk between rose bushes displaying  fiery reds and oranges, huge thorns and fierce prickles, a walk through hell.  Cross the path of purgatory, lined with 12 yews representing the 12 apostles, and you enter Eden, pastel colored roses, mostly thorn-less and smooth stemmed.

It takes almost 2 hours to walk around the park and gardens.  I have done this walk many times  in the company of Madame de Roumilly who never seems to tire of telling people about her rose collection, or the origins of the more unusual plants.

These pictures were taken just as their fantastic rose border was coming  into flower.  Many of the unusual roses are from America, others from Italy.

Back at the château I love to chat to the charming owners.  Monsieur de Roumilly has always supported his wife’s plans for the château and gardens, and through the years has turned his hand to many a project.  From rebuilding stone walls to hand painting door panels.  The restoration of this lovely family-sized château has been a real labor of love.

There is so much more to say, but in the end I have to let the pictures talk for me.  Maybe one day you’ll come this way and we’ll be able to wander around the park together.  We’ll ask permission to let ourselves in  early in the morning – it might mean getting our feet wet in the grass, but it will  be worthwhile simply for the joy of seeing colors at their very best.

Related Links:

• Chateau de Miserey website & information
• Monet’s Giverny Gardens, just 1/2 hr from the Chateau de Miserey
• Top 5 Day trips from Paris

Written by Sharon from My French Country Home. Photos courtesy of My French Country Home and the Chateau de Miserey website. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

For some happy reason no one — except the Italians and a few others in the know — has heard of Liguria aside from well-known towns Portofino and Cinque Terre. It is for this exact reason that I have come to adore this small crescent-shaped region of Italy.

I love to be away from mass tourism and well-known places, and the ocean, hills, clement climate, amazing food and lovely people most certainly heighten the appeal of this wonderful area. For my week of vacation from studying Italian in Genoa (my favorite Italian city, also located in Liguria) I rooted up the perfect apartment in the medieval village of Colletta di CastelBianco.

Left to abandon for many years, an Italian developer picked up this empty, decaying hilltop spot and turned it into a sweet little village with 70 small apartments (about 25 of which are available for rent), a pool, a restaurant and lots of lovely outdoor space.

What is even more interesting, aside from the fact that the village is a haven of peace and tranquility despite it being mid- July and supposedly high tourist season, is that the entire village is equipped with broadband internet and all the flats are wired with wifi or ethernet cables.

The location could not be better for hanging by the pool, exploring hilltop towns or being a beach bum at any of the number of easily accessible beaches a short drive away. My personal favorites are Final Ligure and Varigotti.

For reservations in the village you can contact the lovely Alexandra on the site below and let her know HiP Paris sent you!

• Colletta: colletta.it (info on the village, sales & rentals)
• Great blog on Liguria: http://beautiful-liguria.blogspot.com
• Bella Vita Italia – Italian Travel specialist located in Liguria. Megan has amazing rentals and can help with vacation planning
• Two other adorable looking rentals in Colletta:
• http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/Italy/Liguria/holiday-apartment-Savona/p6646.htm
• http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/italy/it455.htm

Written by Erica Berman for the HiP Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

I have a vision of my perfect Paris apartment. It would be high up – stairs don’t scare me – with a small balcony and a sweeping view over the zinc rooftops, punctuated here and there with church spires and glimmering domes. There would be parquet floors, big windows on both sides (east and west, ideally) and a sunny kitchen that opens onto the living space. Oh, and it would have central heating.

When I first laid eyes on Erica Berman’s apartment just south of Abbesses Métro station, I felt slightly breathless. That might have had something to do with the five flights of stairs required to reach it, but it also came from the certainty that this was my dream apartment. I loved the antique table and mismatched chairs, I loved the contemporary paintings and well-tended plants, and I especially loved the vintage wooden pâtisserie sign above the kitchen, which Erica found at a market in Provence.

It’s no surprise that Erica’s flat should seem so effortlessly tasteful, given that she is the owner of the hippest apartment rental agency around: Haven in Paris. I first met Erica when she came to do one of my food tours in Nice, and I immediately realized that we had many things in common: our love of Paris, Provence and Italy (especially Liguria), our fondness for off-the-beaten track bed-and-breakfasts, and our insatiable curiosity about new Paris restaurants.

When I dropped by her Paris apartment before a meal at the nearby bistro Le Cul de Poule (here is a report on the Haven in Paris blog), she beckoned me onto the balcony for a glass of Italian wine. Erica has lived in Paris for 17 years and there is almost nothing she doesn’t know about the city, as proved by her frequently updated blog. We chatted about good and not-so-good meals she has had in the Pigalle and Montmartre area: her current favorites are Le Miroir (94 rue des Martyrs, 18th) and Guilo Guilo (8 rue Garreau, 18th), the second run by a renowned chef from Kyoto.

Last November I had a chance to stay at Erica’s apartment for a few days while she was away in Brooklyn – she has cleverly organized her life so that she can live in different countries throughout the year. I knew that I could expect comfort, since Erica doesn’t buy into the it’s-rustic-because-it’s-Paris philosophy: the bathroom fittings are modern, the plumbing works impeccably, and the bed piled with pillows reminded me of a luxury hotel. But nothing could have prepared me for the sunset. I was happily working on my computer at the dining table when the sky started to glow, first pink and then orange, with steel-grey clouds drifting across this tableau that gradually dimmed to shades of blue and purple. From then on I made sure to be at the apartment at the end of the day for the nightly spectacle.

Each morning, I made it my mission to find the best baguette in the neighborhood – and there are many to choose from. I sent Erica an e-mail raving about crunchy-crusted, chewy-centered baguette à l’ancienne at Le Grenier à Pain (38 rue des Abbesses, 18th), and she wrote back saying: “try the boule de pain au levain at Au Levain d’Antan (6 rue des Abbesses, 18th) at the top of my street (if it is warm jump on it!), don’t get it cut and then eat with salted butter… it is the BEST.” I might never have noticed this loaf without Erica’s prompting, but I followed her instructions to the letter and the boule was a revelation. Calories were not an issue, since I had worked them off just by running out to pick up the bread.

I also became enamored with the épicerie Lion (7 rue des Abbesses, 18th) at the end of her street. A newer branch of the charmingly cluttered Graineterie du Marché facing the place d’Aligre market, this bright, airy space is filled with the finest French food products – everything from rice pudding kits complete with candied violets or crystallized rose petals to herbal infusions from Gérald Passédat, the celebrated chef of Le Petit Nice in Marseille. Showing great restraint, I bought only a mix of dried seaweeds from chef Olivier Roellinger in Brittany – these can be used in vinaigrettes or in a bouillon for fish or shellfish (I’ve also added them to potatoes mashed with salted Breton butter).

Walking around the neighborhood, I came across this little square with a wall dedicated to romance. “Love is chaotic,” it says, “so let’s love.” It reminded me that, no matter how long I might have lived in Paris, the city still holds many secrets.

Erica now manages about 30 apartments in Paris, many of which have been gutted and decorated under her supervision. She especially likes Montmartre for its villagey feel and its light-filled, top-floor apartments with their stunning views of the city – but, wherever the apartment, she always looks for plenty of charm combined with modern comforts. She will only work with owners who comply with her strict standards, which include high-speed internet access, flat-screen TVs and free international phone calls.

Owning a Paris apartment like Erica’s will probably remain a dream (at least for a while), but staying there for a few days was the next best thing. Months later, I’m stilldreaming of that boule de levain.

Related links:

• Fabulous vacation apartment rentals in Paris: Haven in Paris
• HiP Paris’ write-ups of Cul de Poule bistrot in Montmartre
• Rosa Jackson’s Food Blog
• The Paris Apartment writes up Erica
• Marjorie Taylor’s Cooks Atelier Food Blog
• Finding the perfect vacation rental apartment
• Hip Paris interviews Interior Decorator Claudia Strasser on French flea-market technique

Written by Rosa Jackson. Read Rosa’s original post here. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When Marsha Moore contacted me in April about her upcoming Paris guide book 24 Hours Paris, (note: To order 24 Hours Paris, click here), I was interested, but too busy to delve into it at the time. Little did I know, the timing could not have been more propitious. Not easily impressed by most travel guides, I had low expectations for 24 hours London, which I had on hand (thanks to Marsha’s generosity) for my first trip there in 8 years. Nevertheless I was rapidly wooed as Marsha successfully and succinctly helped me explore London’s cool, hip, lesser known areas and sites.

Paris, mind you, is another cup of tea (or should I say café au lait). My 17+ years here have me well acquainted with what the city has to offer, but I am always on the lookout for new things to do. Marsha’s 24 hours Paris truly digs into the depths of the city and unearths things that many a long term resident have yet to discover. Marsha even managed, along with mentioning many of my favorite Paris restaurants, shops, spots and events, to provide me with some new ideas and inspirations!

Encouraged and intrigued, I decided to interview Marsha to find out more about the woman behind the guides, the origins of her innovative concept and where she is planning on taking it all next!

Marsha Moore

Q: Why did you decide you wanted to write guide books?

When I first moved to London from Canada six years ago, there was so much to do here that it was a bit overwhelming. I’d read all the guide books and think: where should I start? So, along with Prospera Publishing, we started to think about a new kind of guide, a guide that would provide a kind of ready-made itinerary for activities around the clock – where you would only need to turn to the hour you were free, and just take your pick! That’s how the concept for the 24 Hours series began. We decided to start off with London since it’s where we were based, then move on to Paris since it’s such a popular tourist destination. We’ve had a great response so far!

Q: How would you say your guide sets itself apart from other more conventional city guides?

Traditional travel guides group their content by activity – shopping, drinking, etc. The 24 Hours series groups its content by time. It’s particularly useful during the nighttime hours, if you’re looking for something to do at 4 a.m., for example. Instead of flipping through a whole book to find a restaurant that’s open all night, you can quickly scan the 4 a.m. chapter. Also, we include lots of off-the-beaten-track activities for both locals and tourists – like anti-drawing classes or midnight movies – to help explorers take advantage of everything a city has to offer!

Lisa Weatherbee – Promenade Plantée

Q: What are your favorite things to do and see in Paris ?

I love the Promenade Plantée. It’s such a unique feeling – walking through trees and plants, even though you’re surrounded by buildings in the heart of the metropolis. The Bastille Artists’ Market is also one of my favorites, because I really like that you can talk to the artists directly and get some insight into their creative process. And as a writer, the Georges Brassens Market, where over 60 booksellers gather on the weekend, is paradise! If I can sneak one more in, the cruise on Canal St-Martin is also a great way to explore some of the more hidden parts of Paris.

Lisa Weatherbee - Restaurant Chartier

Q: What are your top 3 restaurants in Paris for casual dining?

Tough question, because there are so many places! Whether you’ve just arrived in Paris or you’re on your way home, Chez Casimir close to the Gare du Nord is the perfect place to treat your taste-buds to the best of Breton. Restaurant Chartier is also a great place to soak up old-world ambiance: it’s been around for 100 years and most of the décor is unchanged. And finally, if you’re looking for a raucous (and very undignified) night out, try Le Refuge des Fondues where you can drink wine from baby bottles and get your fill of fondue. It’s tiny and you’ll be squeezed in like sardines, but you can’t help but have fun!

Lisa Weatherbee - Restaurant Chartier

Q: If you had to advise a first-time visitor to Paris just one thing, what would it be?

Difficult question! For first-time visitors, one thing not to miss out on would be taking a cruise on the Seine. Paris is absolutely beautiful from the river, and whether you go all-out for a champagne cruise or opt for the river shuttle Voguéo, it’s something every visitor to Paris must do.

Q: For Parisians and Paris regulars what would you think to tell them to do in order to enhance their knowledge of the city?

For Parisians and Paris regulars, I’d advise them not to be afraid to venture off track. Much of Paris’s beauty lies in just wandering the streets of its different neighborhoods, from Belleville and beyond. Pick an area you haven’t been to and explore! Another great way to get to know the city is to get involved: there are so many activities you can participate in – from philosophy cafes to burlesque classes to rollerblading – each providing a different perspective on Paris.

Q: How would your describe the differences you see between Paris and London?

Paris is such a beautiful city that you can’t help but be stunned by how perfectly groomed it appears to be. It reminds me of entering my mother’s room as a child – you’re fascinated by everything but afraid to touch it unless you somehow mess it up. London is grayer, less appealing visually, and less ordered, but you feel somehow like you can dig in and get your hands dirty.

Lisa Weatherbee – Refuge des Fondues

Q: Will you be doing other cities?

Definitely! Paris is the second in the series after London, and we are working on Sydney and New York next!

Q: You are also working on another project – The Hating Game. What is that about?

The Hating Game is my first novel, to be published by Prospera Publishing in early 2011 under my fiction pen name, Talli Roland. It has nothing to do with travel, but focuses on my other obsession: reality television (yes, I admit it!). It’s about a man-eating woman who agrees to star on a dating game show to save her ailing recruitment business. What she doesn’t know is that the contestants are four of her very unhappy exes. The novel follows her as she confronts her past to try to win the prize money she so desperately needs.

Lisa Weatherbee – Canal St. Martin

Haven in Paris wishes lovely Marsha the very best in her publishing career!

(24 Hours Paris, £9.99, is available from www.prosperapublishing.co.uk, your favorite bookstore, or Amazon.)

Lisa Weatherbee – Canal St. Martin

Related links:

• Parisien Salon interviews Marsha Moore as well
• For other alternative guides to Paris check out..
• Girl’s Guide to Paris
• Secrets of Paris
• My Little Paris

Lisa Weatherbee is a New York based photographer and designer, currently eating and shooting her way through Paris. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

The volcanic eruption in Iceland has changed my (and likely your) travel plans pretty dramatically. I was supposed to be back with the husband in cold and rainy New England but am instead stranded in bright and sunny Paris. Despite feeling pretty helpless, as you may imagine, I am not getting much sympathy from friends and family. Taking the bull by the horns, I have decided to make the most of every extra moment in this perfect city. I’m sharing my five-step plan with you, with the hopes that it may help those of you also stranded in Paris or anywhere in Europe.

1. Revisit your favorite restaurant and hope for a sweet homecoming. I’ve visited some fabulous restaurants during my stay in Paris, only to be warmly welcomed (most of the time) upon my second visit. The staff at Le Miroir, Glou and, especially, Le Pure Café have been attentive, sweet and delighted by my return visits. However, I only just discovered my favorite restaurant in Paris a few days ago. La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde (64 Rue de Bellechasse 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 45 51 74 61) is a little neighborhood joint, only four blocks from my flat, run by an unlikely duo – she’s an experienced grandmother-like host, he’s a young, cool bartender/server. Together, they run an efficient, candle-lit, warm diner that whips up nine seasonal comfort dishes (three entrees, three plats, three desserts) and easy, affordable wine. I felt so at home here, so much so that I’m hoping a return trip will ease my travel plan pain. If it doesn’t, I’m pretty certain a return trip to my favorite Paris wine bar, Le Baron Rouge, will do the trick. Wine cures all ills, right?

2. Take a second look at your immediate neighborhood. I’ve lived in one of the most glorious Haven in Paris flats on the Left Bank. The neighborhood is lovely and studded with cafés, patisseries, shops and boucheries. Alas, I’ve spent most of my days running all over Paris, practically ignoring some very special places right on my block. One place I plan to explore is Deyrolle (46 Rue du Bac 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 42 22 30 07), a taxidermy shop that’s been delighting nature lovers and science aficionados since 1831. Originally a spot that “attracted hunters eager to immortalize their trophies and games,” Deyrolle is a museum-like venue perfect for little and big kids. Big kids like… my husband. He missed it when he visited last month, but now I don’t have to. (By the way, we wrote a great post about Deyrolle last year.)

3. Try out a new café, a new vantage point from which to scheme up exactly what you’d do if the volcano keeps spewing and you have to live here long-term. I’ve been exceptionally busy viewing the entire roster of Haven in Paris flats, getting to know Paris and entertaining various guests who have been eager to visit their Paris-based friend. With all this, I’ve had no time to simply sit at a café and take it all in. I finally hit a very old spot that was brand new to me called La Palette (43 Rue de Seine 75006 Paris, Tel: 01 43 29 09 42). Once frequented by both Cézanne and Braque, this café features artwork and artist palettes all over the walls and very well heeled locals in each of the seats. The sun was shining, the rose was chilled and I felt quite at home. I didn’t devise any profound solutions to the volcano crisis, but I did think one thing: Year-round, this wouldn’t suck.

Photo courtesy of Little Brown Pen

4. Indulge in those souvenirs that may not last the week. I’ve spent my time in Paris hording foodie souvenirs for my friends, family and even brief acquaintances. I’ve hit every typical venue and am armed with macarons from Pierre Hermé, chocolate-covered orange rind from A La Mere de Famille, and Basque-accented chocolate truffles from L’Atelier du Chocolat. But with flights delayed for possibly days, I’m worried about keeping these items fresh long-term. Who am I kidding? Some of these little pieces of sweetness will keep a week or two, but I think I’ll fall to pieces if I don’t finally indulge. Yesterday, I popped open a bottle of champagne along with my bag of mango passion fruit caramels from Jacques Genin’s Marais-based shop (133 Rue de Turenne 75003 Paris, Tél: 01 45 77 29 01). I swear that the silky caramel texture almost made me forget about the volcano, and reminded me that I needed more caramels, stat! (Here’s a great post on Jacques’ chocolate and caramels.)

5. Pick up a special souvenir for yourself. Upon further inspection of my suitcases when packing for my canceled flight, I felt sad seeing that I was returning without much for myself. Thanks to that volcano, I may have missed my flight but I haven’t missed out on the chance to pick up a truly great souvenir just for me. I’ve decided to cave and buy a handmade sac at Brontibay (6 Rue de Sévigné, 75004 Paris‎, Tel: 01 42 76 90 42‎), one of my favorite handbag boutiques. When I finally do leave Paris, I’ll be doing so sans regret, without feeling like I missed out on my only shot to pick up one of these sweet handbags directly from the source. Longchamp (21 Rue du Vieux Colombier 75006 Paris, ‎Tel: 01 42 22 74 75‎) is fine, but Brontibay is way better.

Regardless of how you make the most of your extended stay in Paris, I wish all of you the best and hope we all get home soon, with bags of caramels still in hand.

Written by Maggie Battista for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Don’t you just hate it when a volcano explodes and ruins all your travel plans? Us too. Then again, Paris is not such a bad place to be stranded. If you’re in Paris and looking for a place to stay, you’re in luck! Due to the European travel ban, Haven in Paris has some great last-minute availability, and we’re offering a number of special offers over the next few days / weeks.

Feel free to browse our portfolio at the links above, or contact us at info@haveninparis.com or by phone at 617-395-4243 with any inquiries.

We look forward to hearing from you!

• Haveninparis.com
• Last minute Special offers

Traveling has never been less easy. Fortunately, untold numbers of intrepid travelers continue to trot the globe appreciating that the joy of the journey trounces the irritation of a few hours almost every time.

I was lucky this weekend flying from Boston to Paris, and I got through security quickly and hassle- free. Before taking off (since I had arrived early anticipating long lines), I jotted down a few of my tried-and-true travel tips with the hopes of making your next air travel experience as pleasant as possible.

1. If you are traveling internationally, pack only one checked suitcase per traveler. Extra luggage is still allowed, but each additional bag comes with a price.  (Note: Some American airlines charge for each checked bag when you are flying within the US).

2. Weigh your bag at home. Make sure it falls within your airline’s designated weight limit, unless you are prepared to pay a supplement (often upwards of $50 per bag, depending on your airline).

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3. You can still bring a carry-on weighing up to 40 pounds (make sure to check the approved measurements from your airline website), a personal item such as a backpack, and even a jacket!

4. Show up early. You never know how long security will take these days. Bring a good book in case you have spare time.

5. Bring an empty plastic water bottle. You can fill it up at a water fountain on the other side of security. You might confound the security agents with your empty container, but you will save yourself a few dollars in overpriced bottled water fees. Drinking tap water is still permitted and still free.

6. If you’re carrying on, put all of your liquids (measuring less than 3 ounces each) into ONE transparent baggie. Airports occasionally provide them, but you might want to bring an extra just in case. Ziplock bags are now worth their weight in gold at the airport.

7. Put on your favorite funky fuzzy socks, the ones you don’t care if the whole world sees, and work them proudly as you go through security sans chaussures.

8. If you need to bring baby formula, go for it. This is acceptable, as are prescription meds. Luckily, it’s still ok to be sick and feed your kids.

9. If you are sick, be considerate of fellow passengers and stay clear whenever possible. No more open mouthed coughing please!

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10. Make sure your name, address, and local contact information are on all your bags. Doing so will help to ensure that you and your bags all end up at the same destination (sooner or later).

11. Bring food.  These days, many flights (even long international ones) only offer pay-per-meals. Food is still allowed; take advantage while you can.

12. Bring in your carry-on: a toothbrush, mini-size toothpaste, moisturizer and hand-sanitizer. These days, most drug stores sell sample sizes. After an overnight flight, they’re a great way to quickly freshen up. Just remember: less then 3 ounces.

13. Pack light. Less is more. We often take more then we end up needing. And remember, wherever you are going, laundry services are almost always an option… as is shopping!

14. No light-colored cloth suitcases. No matter how stylish it is, it will no longer be light after your flight.  It will get thrown around and muddied up. Last year, I was so pleased with my nifty bright orange case (always easy to spot on the conveyor belt).  But after one flight, the bag was no longer nifty—it was nasty and streaked with black grease. I then realized there is a reason for the omnipresent black luggage. If you do have a dear valise of color, procure a washable bag to protect it with, or wrap it in plastic before boarding (not ideal for the planet).

15. And it goes without saying: carry nothing potentially dangerous on to the plane with you, as it will be taken away. Click here for a detailed list of items not to bring on-board.

16. Smile. It will help you charm your way through security and customs, and it just might make you feel better (and the people around you too)!

Traveling still makes me think about the pre-9/11, hand-sanitizer, foot-bomber, shoes-off-at-security, 3-ounce-of-liquid-in-a-Ziplock-baggie era we’re now living in. Once, many years ago, I convinced my 100% New Yorker city-dweller friend to meet me for a camping trip in Maine. He flew from New York to Portland with just a medium sized backpack that he brought with him in the cabin and placed in the overhead bin. Naturally, the backpack was full of his camping gear, including one full-sized wooden-handled ax; an essential object for cutting wood for campfires, of course. He made it all the way to me, and Maine, without a hitch, or should I say a hack!

Useful Links for safe and friendly travel:

http://blog.ebags.com/post/tips-to-avoid-overweight-baggage-fees/

http://www.americanairlines.es/i18nForward.do?p=/travelInformation/baggage/baggageAllowance.jsp&anchorEvent=false

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Written by Erica Berman for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris. We still have some fabulous February specials and Valentine’s day getaways: http://www.haveninparis.com/special.php.