Street art Paris - Annewil Stroo

La Bouffe

May 4 & 12: Veillées Foodstock 2012 includes two nights of all things we love: art, poetry, music, whiskey and ice cream. It may be a bit of a trip (held at the Contemporary Art Museum in Vitry-sur-Seine) but with those offerings plus the backing of Le Fooding, how could you say no? 

Now Open: Yannick Alleno of Le Meurice has opened Terroir Parisien, which boasts dishes made from ingredients from Ile de France.  An additional perk? It’s open every day, so feel free to pop in for Sunday dinner. Terroir Parisien, 24, rue rue St-Victor, 5e, 01.44.31.54.54

Now Open: Restaurateurs Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré continue to expand with their new resto Semilla, offering fresh and contemporary French dishes from an open kitchen. Note: these are the guys behind Cosi, Fish and La Dernière Goutte. Semilla, 54 rue de Seine, 6e, 01.43.54.34.50

© Antanas Sutkus

L’Art

May 19: The 8th annual Nuit Européenne des Musées – or European Museums Night – boasts more than 160 events in museums big and small, and many have free entry. You can view a list of all participating museums and their offerings here.

Through May 19: The current exhibition at the Russian Tea Room Gallery is Amours Libres, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier/Antanas Sutkus. Sutkus is a Lithuanian photographer who shot moving black and white images of the impoverished people of his country, while Charbonnier focused on everyday moments of Parisian life. 

Through June 15: On view at Fondation Dina-Vierny – Musée Maillol: Artemisia – Pouvoir, Gloire et Passions d’une femme peintre. A feminist rule-breaker in 17^th century Italy, this daughter of famed painter Orazio Gentileschi harnessed her creative drive and has since been considered one of the best painters of her time.

Robert Crumb

Through August: If you’ll be in Paris with your little ones, be sure to see the Babar exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs. The show details the multiple creators of the world’s favorite pachyderm and includes games, drawings and a series of 3D animations sure to entertain.

Through June 23: The Maison de la Culture du Japon à Paris celebrates its 15^th anniversary with the exhibition Humour, parodie et vidéos: Créations vidéo du Japon contemporain. Images and video all centered around the theme of “laughter,” this show can’t help but put you in a good mood. 

Through August 19: The Musée d’Art Moderne is currently showing Crumb: De l’Underground à la Genèse. This show is the first French retrospective of famed American cartoonist Robert Crumb.  R. Crumb is known for his satirical portrayal of American life, but this exhibition spans his work from early underground drawings to the publication of his graphic novel The Book of Genesis.

Foster the People

La Musique

May 4: Paris Classik, a classical orchestra, will be performing at the Eglise Saint Germain des Prés, the oldest church in Paris. The combination of the popular instrumentals and the historical significance of the location make this an event not to miss.

May 4-5: Indie darlings Foster the People perform at Le Bataclan this weekend. The trio’s feel-good indie pop-rock is sure to put a smile on any sour Parisian face.

May 9: Coeur de Pirate, led by Québécoise singer-songwriter Béatrice Martin, will perform at at Zénith de Paris. The group has had great success beyond Canada, getting recognition on Good Morning America and being nominated for Juno Award’s Francophone Album of the Year.

Charlotte Gainsbourg (Nederlands UITburo)

May 12-13: Radio France’s Des week-ends de musique presents Paris-Japon, a representation of the Eastern music that has long influenced that of the west. The weekend is comprised of five concerts covering works from ten Japanese composers.

May 20-June 3: The Saint Germain-des-Pres Jazz Festival is a dream for any syncopation-loving listener. It brings jazz musicians from around the globe together for numerous concerts at Paris’s best venues.  And what better appropriate neighborhood to host it?

May 21: French sweetheart and singer-actress Charlotte Gainsbourg will perform at La Cigalle. Though Charlotte comes from a musically-endowed family, her albums certainly have their own merit – a winning combo.

May 29: British award winner Elvis Costello will perform with The Imposters at L’Olympia. Costello has won a Grammy, is a member of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and is a veteran on the music scene.

Les Puces du Design (Zemoko)

Misc

May 10: For a vintage focused shopping event, head to the 26^th Puces du Design at Bercy Village. Over 100 antique dealers specializing in fashion and art from the 1950s-80s will be present for your browsing pleasure.

May 11-14: Les Portes Ouvertes: The artists of Belleville open the doors to their ateliers and give the curious a unique opportunity to explore their creative spaces. There is also official programming throughout the weekend including concerts, performances and more.  

May 13: Entry to the Children’s Festival at the Jacquemart-Andre Museum is free  to anyone under 17 years old, making this the perfect time to explore the museum’s permanent collections, take in the Pharaoh exhibition and participate in creative workshops throughout the day. Don’t miss the chocolate fountain and a collective balloon release in the evening!

May 27-June 10: If you’ll be in Paris at the end of the month, hurry and get your tickets to the French Open, the mythical tennis event that is over a century old.

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

La Bouffe:

Ongoing: Cédric Casanova, the Italian genius behind ‘La Tete dans les Olives’ strikes again with his just-opened épicerie, Au Conservatoire. Book the shop’s only table for yourself and seven of your closest friends for Cédric’s “Pique-niques Gastronomiques”, a tasty selection of Sicilian small plates with a little specialty shopping on the side. Au Conservatoire, 14 rue Sainte Marthe, 75 010, Paris. To make reservations, email: picnic@latetedanslesolives.com

Ongoing: An elusive new stranger has appeared on the Paris bar scene: L’Inconnu. Hip coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night, and for those in it for the long haul, a DJ dance party that goes until 2am. Pop in for afternoon coffee and you might just find yourself dancing the night away. 17-19 rue de Mazagran, 75010, Paris.

April 7: In case you need another excuse to drink delicious French wines, here you have it: Caves Augé, one of the oldest stores in Paris, is hosting a free tasting of wines from the Rhone Valley. À votre santé! Caves Augé, 116 Blvd Haussmann, 75008, Paris.

BBrown6

April 12: Relive George Lucas’ cult classic “American Graffiti” with burgers, hotdogs and more: Street Food Party’s first event of the season revisits classics with a fresh, French twist. Expect girls on roller-skates, live music and gastro-rock interpretations of classic American drive-in fare. At La Rotonde, 6-8 Pl. de la Bataille Stalingrad, 75019, Paris. Starts at 8pm.

April 7-8: You know all about this super-cool fun-for-all weekend of brunch and more, but it’s too good to not mention again. Brunch Bazar is back. 66 rue de Turenne, 75003, Paris.

Fred Jagueneau, Kerndwa1, 2003

Les Arts

April 25-May 15: Be sure to check out the Polaroids of globetrotting, fashion-loving photographer Fred Jagueneau in “Dreaming of Zerzura,” curated by Nan Goldin herself. 9 place des Vosges, 75004, Paris

April 12: The Palais de Tokyo has been closed for four months of renovations, but the new and improved space is finally reopening in April. You can catch a behind-the-scenes preview of the exciting changes to the center during its opening party, featuring 30 full hours of programming including performances and concerts. The Palais de Tokyo will officially reopen to the public on April 19^th. 13 Ave du Président Wilson, 75013, Paris.

April 13-15: Tap into your inner child at France Distraction, an interactive installation filled with inflatable structures and ball pits that press visitors to question the absurdity in corporate procedures and everyday “adult life.” 5 rue Curial, 75019, Paris.

Highlight Park, Julien Colomber, Galerie Metropolis

Through April 14: Julien Colombier turns every day objects into canvases for his psychedelic landscapes. Highlight Park, a custom-built a half-pipe designed to fit the gallery space perfectly, features a forest scene strangely reminiscent of one of our favorite children’s books… 16 rue de Montmorency, 75003, Paris.

Through May 5: Peter Brook returns to the famed Bouffes du Nord theater for a production of “The Suit.” South African author Can Themba wrote the piece as a short story and had the ill fortune of passing before it could be turned into a play. The story is one of a slow and painful revenge, but the production is sure to please. 37 bis Boulevard de la Chapelle, 75010, Paris.

Through June 17: The Grand Palais is hosting the first French retrospective of iconic fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Designed by his wife, June, the show includes more than 200 photographs that are sure to shock, impress and inspire. 3 Avenue du Général Eisenhower, 75008, Paris.

Wonder Vintage Market

Le Shopping:

April 14: Scouring vintage shops is often one of the greatest ways to find unique pieces, but picking through the junk to find the gems can be a downer. Fortunately, Wonder Vintage Market has brought together only the best for a one-day shopping event at Bastille Design Center. 74 Blvd Richard-Lenoir, 75011, Paris.

April 27-May 8: If you’ll be in Paris with young ones, take a family trip to the Foire de Paris. This 100+ year-old exhibition boasts artists and craftsmen from around the globe. 1 Place Porte de Versailles, 75015, Paris.

Slightly Winded

La Musique:

April 5: German duo and music festival frequenters Digitalism are seasoned players in the world of electronic music. Raised on Berlin’s Love Parade and the like, the pair is dedicated to successfully marrying rock and electro. To catch the group in action, put your dancing shoes on and head to their show at La Gaîté Lyrique. 3 bis rue Papin, 75003, Paris.

April 12: Aaron Parks, an inventive jazz pianist who has the ability to paint smooth and colorful scenes with his notes, plays at the famous Duc des Lombards. 42 rue des Lombards, 75001, Paris.

April 19: For some classic French chanson with an edgy twist, be sure to catch the Carmen Maria Vega show at La Maroquinerie. A Guatemalan by birth, Carmen’s music and style are irreverent yet likeable. 23 rue Boyer, 75020, Paris.

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

VuTheara Kham

La fête

March 10-11: Colette Carnival in the Tuilleries: Bon anniv’ to one of our favorite concept stores! Colette will be celebrating its 15^th bday with a fab – and free – carnival in the Tuileries.

La bouffe

March 17-18: A Brunch Bazar weekend has to be the best one of the month. Two nine-hour days filled with little bits of the things we love: food, music, workshops and even a funhouse for the little ones.

March 11-13: After a long stint in Deauville, the Omnivore Food Festival heads to Paris. In case plentiful tastings from some of France’s greatest chefs isn’t enticing enough, the alcohol and tunes that are sure to be in abundance make this a must-do.

La musique

March 8: Phenomenal Handclap Band at Nouveau Casino:  PHB’s feel-good fusion tracks hit Paris and are not to be missed.  If some old-school soul meets disco is what you crave, get to Nouveau Casino on Thursday night.

March 11: Super Sunday with Patrice is a mixed-medium event inspired by music, dance, graffiti and gastronomy. Enjoy some indie artwork and a delicious menu by Nelson Muller before jamming out to Afro-German Reggae artist, Patrice. Take a peek at the menu here.

March 20-April 1: Les Femmes S’en Mêlent, a cross-Europe indie music festival celebrating female music-makers comes to Paris. Check out the lineup here.

Les arts

March 7-August 5: The magical Tim Burton Exhibition at Cinémathèque Française opens today. Following a wildly successful showing at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, the fantastical works of Mr. Burton made it overseas. This show is a true pleasure and treat for the imagination of adults and children alike.

Through March 18: Experiencing the works of a creative mastermind is always a pleasure, isn’t it? The Jean-Paul Goude exhibit at Les Arts Décoratifs is the designer/illustrator/photographer ‘s first retrospective, so it’s only appropriate that happening in Paris.

March 9-16: Louis Vuitton  – Marc Jacobs at Les Arts Décoratifs: Goude, Vuitton and Jacobs in the same location? That’s almost more genius than we can handle – but not quite. Once you’ve digested the former, be sure to check out the latter. The designers’ fabulous pieces are only on view for one week. In the mood for a teaser? Check out this video.

March 30-April 1: With 101 film screenings, the ECU film festival has something for every type of cinephile. Purchase tickets in advance by visiting this site.

Through April 28: Iconic photographer Robert Doisneau’s snapshots of ordinary Parisian life portrayed the popular Les Halles area like none other. Feel the energy of this bustling 1930s locale at this exhibit dedicated to his explorations of the “stomach of Paris” taking place at the Hotel de Ville.

Through July 15: The just-opened Bob Dylan Exhibition at Cité de la Musique: this venue continues its streak of successful musician-inspired exhibits with America’s folk hero. This show will focus on what many consider to be Dylan’s greatest days, the early and mid 1960s.

Misc

Ongoing: Workshops and classes on CreativeParis.info: this wonderful new site challenges Paris visitors to go out and experience the city like a local. They have classes and workshops in everything from origami to perfume making, so you’re sure to find something that tickles your fancy.

Related Links:

• Also worth checking out this month is the Matisse exhibit at the Pompidou center
• Check out Paris’ first food truck, le Camion qui Fume, at the Colette Carnival this weekend
• The Paris Cookbook fair is also happening this weekend at the 104

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Carams

La musique

February 23: Brooklyn rockers Real Estate, whose albums are consistently rated Best New Music by Pitchfork and the like, will perform at Nouveau Casino.

February 24: Pop-dance producers Simian Mobile Disco,  a British duo that broke off from previous band Simian, will perform a DJ set at La Machine du Moulin Rouge.

Dave Bloom

Les arts

Through February 19: Les Femmes savantes, a favorite amongst Molière’s work and a satirical criticism of the ridiculous préciosité that penetrated 18^th century French salons, is showing at the Théâtre de la Tempête.

Through February 19: Chic! Une grande maison at Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine – a look into the history of Paris architecture, specifically the lovely hôtels particuliers that dot the city. Child friendly.

Through March 15: You may know Maxim’s for its resto and boutique, but they also have an exhibition space and this month “Moi, Sarah Bernhardt” is on show. Bernhardt, often thought of as the world’s first and most famous actress, paved the way for female performers to come. Now you can take a peek into her life and passion.

Matt Mansfield

Through March 25: The Maison Européenne de la Photographie’s current special exhibition showcases Brazilian photography over the past 60 years, portraying the country’s consistent search for identity. Don’t forget to stroll through the permanent collections!

Through April 6: If you have an affinity for LatAm photography, be sure to check out FOTO/GRÁFICA at Le Bal as well, a survey of Latin American photography over the past century.

Jules Morgan

Misc.

Every Friday: La Dernière Goutte, an inviting cave in the 6^th, hosts Le Wine-Down, a free wine tasting with noshes from 5-7:30pm. What better way to end the week and rub elbows with locals?

Through February 14: Traveling to Paris with votre amour for la Saint Valentin? The city will be making personal love notes public for the day, so submit your sentiments to the Mairie de Paris by the 8^th to see them posted on signs all over Paris.

For more events in Paris in February, check out these links:

• Secrets of Paris
• Bonjour Paris
• Le Best of Paris

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

What can I add to this week’s hundreds of tributes to the legendary proprietor of Paris’s Shakespeare and Company bookshop, George Whitman, including one by the writer, Jeanette Winterson?

Why was she impelled to remember him in print? Because, like so many others, she had stayed at Shakespeare and Company. George Whitman started a tradition of hosting writers, most famously members of the Beat generation, and the bookshop’s ‘Tumbleweed Hotel’ is still a place where literary dreamers can exchange a few hours’ work in the shop for a bed on a bench amongst the books of George’s personal open library on the first floor.

When I came to Shakespeare and Company a couple of years ago, it was a while before I actually met George. Already in his mid-90s, he spent his days in the apartment on the top floor.

He still owned the shop downstairs, now run expertly by his daughter Sylvia and her team, its ‘Tumbleweed Hotel’ principles intact.

When they arrive, Tumbleweeds are required to write a brief biography for the shop’s records. Employed by the shop to create stair murals, I decided I would do this later. Anyway I was here to draw, not write. I wasn’t a Tumbleweed.

Was I?

The next time I stayed I didn’t write it either, but I did spend my time writing. I’d do it on the next visit.

Or the next…

The last time I visited the shop in October 2011 , Paris was cold. George had just suffered a stroke and was in hospital, ‘recovering well’. The writers’ room, with its tiny electric radiator, was warm. Under my window, tourists snapped continually; Tumbleweeds lunched at the little round table by the door; drunks gathered at the fountain; a busker turned up and performed Shakespeare’s most famous speeches in rotation. Later on, the drummers took over outside the cathedral.

I stopped writing to eat at the café across the road. The man at the next table was telling his teenage daughter – her first trip to Paris – about how he’d been to one of George’s famous Sunday teas and heard the bookseller relate how he had set off to walk from North to South America but had been forced to turn back in the impassible Central American jungle. He was like a child, the man said. It was like he didn’t understand why he just couldn’t go as far as he wanted to go.

But after opening Le Mistral in 1951, which became Shakespeare and Company in 1964, the traveler largely stayed put in Paris, dying peacefully last Wednesday in his apartment above the shop, two days after his 98th birthday.

I walked back from the café to the bookshop and got back to work.

I wrote. Notre Dame chimed ‘Three Blind Mice’ on the hour: the light went.

I thought about space: Kilometer Zero in front of Notre Dame; Place René Viviani  next to the shop where the 2010 Shakespeare and Company Literary Festival was held – a free event into which the public could wander. That was the last time I had seen George downstairs; wearing an extravagant paisley jacket, he was carried in triumph through the shop on a sofa held shoulder-high by Tumbleweeds.

And then there is that other space, George’s library above the shop, also open to anyone who wants to come in and use it.

I stopped work. Downstairs I heard the rumble of Tumbleweeds pulling the carts of books into the shop as they begun shutting up for the night.

The moon rose over Paris.

All these things I noticed only courtesy of the man upstairs : by staying where he was, Whitman allowed others to travel.

Thank you, George.

Written by Badaude for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

As soon as our timetable lets us go, my husband and I move from our base in Amsterdam to our tiny apartment in Paris.

We’ve lived here in Paris part time for more than 4 years now, but I still discover new places, neighborhoods, and restaurants every single time we go on a stroll. Paris is inexhaustible when it comes to surprising me in any unexpected ways.

My dear friend, stylist, photographer and author Pia Jane Bijkerk, used to live here too, and she wrote a wonderful guide that everyone should have when they go to Paris. It’s a little book that takes you on a tour of Paris’ best shops and ateliers for handmade goods. So that’s right up my alley, of course.

One of the places she lists is Le Petit Atelier de Paris, so of course I went.

I fell in love with the shop instantly. Just standing outside, even the façade is charming. Inside, eyes and hands are drawn to the tables filled with handmade ceramics, all unique pieces. I’d love to work in this atelier in another life — I have secretly always wanted to be a ceramist!

They also organize small exhibits for artists from all over the world, so there is always something new and delightful to discover every time I go.  They also make small, beautifully packaged pieces that are perfect gifts to send off to family and friends. It’s a shame to even open them! Go and have a look for yourself – you won’t regret it.

Le Petit Atelier de Paris, 31 Rue de Montmerency, 75003  Paris, open from Thursday to Saturday from 13:00 – 20:00 hrs.

Related Links:

• To see more from Yvette Van Boven, including her cookbooks, illustrations and info on her restaurant in Amsterdam, check out her website
• Check out Le Petit Atelier’s website here for upcoming exhibits and information on current collections
• View Le Petit Atelier’s most recent items on their blog, here
• Read up on Pia’s fantastic book, Paris Made by Hand, in our 2009 review here.
• Can’t get to Paris to shop at Le Petit Atelier? We think Pia’s Paris Made by Hand book would make a great gift for any francophile…

Written by Yvette Van Boven for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Patricia, aka, Memi the Rainbow; Patricia is an Italian girl who lives in Paris to study art. She is passionate about hand-carved rubber stamps, photography, and long walks through Paris, her muse; check out her fab home-made gifts at her Etsy shop. Also check out her wonderful blog here. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

You’d think that as a travel photographer who’s endlessly enamored of Paris, finding infinite inspiration for things to shoot in the City of Light would be proverbial cake. Well, you’d be wrong. At least where this Francophile photog is concerned!

My problem with Paris (and what a wonderful challenge to have) is that after so many visits, what was once a mysterious new wonderland to discover and dissect through the lens is now a favorite, intimately familiar old haunt. So when I found myself “stuck” in Paris for two weeks last spring per that little volcanic kerfuffle in Iceland instead of down south in new-to-me Nice, I was actually un peu perturbed.

After settling into the reality that I’d be in Paris awhile — and potentially a really long while if that blasted Eyjafjallajökull didn’t pipe down already, I finally began to relax and reflect on how best to start a fresh relationship with this city I had captured through my lens so many times before. In the end, I don’t know what I was so worried about! With a few simple adjustments to my habitual Paris routines, seeing the city anew was easy.

Even though you’re not in Venice, go ahead and get lost.

Armed with my trusty copy of Michelin’s Paris par Arrondissement, I wandered sans worry. One of the most important things I learned was to take the time to explore and absorb at a leisurely clip – day or night. Rather than defaulting to the subway, the bus became my primary mode of public transportation. Better to survey large, unfamiliar chunks of the city that way, and scout new nooks and crannies to tackle à pied. Similarly, if I did ride the metro, I used it to reach pockets of Paris that I’d never seen or strolled before. It was fantastique.

Get up early, or stay out late.

As on any trip, I set my alarm to rise and shine before the sun and the city. I love doing this and particularly in a place like Paris, both for the dreamy photo opps and for the priceless experience of watching timeless cityscapes come to life. Plus it’s just about the only way you’re going to score some private time with landmarks like La Tour Eiffel. Unless you’re willing to stay out way after dark, which isn’t really my thing, but man — talk about interesting photo opportunities.

Make your own photo scavenger hunt.

Paris is so much more than its famous landmarks, and I had a blast reminding myself of this simple fact. Architectural elements are a favorite focus of my photos, and on this trip I found myself obsessed with collecting as many of the city’s old ornate doors as my camera’s SD card would hold. And if you have a love of street art as I do, Paris is a jackpot; so many stellar examples and such a fun theme to hunt, especially if you hone in on one or two artists. On this trip I discovered the work of Leo & Pipo and enjoyed keeping my eyes peeled for their quirky installations all over town.

Take another look at the landmarks.

I thought about skipping the city’s typically touristed suspects, having enjoyed them already over multiple trips past. In compromise, I picked a few and made a point to see them anew, too. I tried to compose my shots from a variety of vantage points and distances from the subject. Mixing it up this way and folding in additional variations like time of day can make for spectacular shots. A stroll through Paris at either the Golden Hour (the hour just after sunrise and before sunset) or the Blue Hour (also known as twilight, this is the hour just before sunrise or after sundown) can also turn up some brilliant, original light combinations. And one night at the Louvre, I really did see something for the first time — the Mona Lisa!

Related Links:

• Didier Gauducheau, one of Haven in Paris’ favorite photogs, also offers guided photography tours of Paris
• Europa Photogenica also offers photo tours throughout Europe
• Do you have pictures of Paris you’d like to share and maybe see featured on this blog? Check out the HiP Paris flickr group! We would love to hear from you.

Written by Marisa Williams for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Marisa Williams. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

The other week, as the famed Musée D’Orsay was about to celebrate a grand re-opening after two years of renovation, museum workers went on strike. The strike ended fairly quickly, but for a few agonizing days disappointed Impressionistas were left wondering how to get their art fix in Paris.

Which brings up a good point. The Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre are not exclusive guardians of the greatest art ever, despite what your guide book tells you. Yeah, yeah, you want to see the Mona Lisa. But why not get out of the big musées and discover places you never knew you wanted to? I mean, you’re in Paris, for God’s sake. You can’t throw a pavé without hitting beautiful pieces of art. They’re not all in museums. They’re in gardens, on bridges, down hidden streets. Art is everywhere. Walk around and stumble upon it.

Sculpture by Dali (Amelia Wells)

Or if you’re looking for a little more structure, here are a few ideas:

Find Monet elsewhere in Paris. If you want to see what inspired all the lily pad umbrellas and tote bags, head over to the Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries, renovated a few years ago. The enormity of Monet’s paintings alone is stunning. And just on the edge of Paris, near the Bois de Boulogne is the Musée Marmottan Monet, which houses over 100 works by Monsieur Monet.

Rodin’s “Eve”  (Rachel So)

Ever heard of Rodin? There are more than 130 art museums in Paris. So don’t just pin your trip on the two BIG ones. I was never much of a fan of Picasso until I went to the Musée National Picasso. (Sorry, that one is closed for renovations until 2013). Instead, make it a priority to see museums like ones dedicated to Auguste Rodin or Salvador Dalí, depending on your tastes.

Go to the source. Again, you’re in Paris, where the painters painted and the sculptors sculpted. See what inspired them in and around the city. The village of Montmartre was a practical muse. Splurge on a show at the Moulin Rouge, which inspired Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec in both painting and posters. Climb up to the windmill where Renoir created his famous painting, Dance at Moulin de la Galette. Some say that painting sparked the Impressionist movement (this is still being debated). Take a day trip to Giverny to get a close-up of Monet’s lilies or a 15-minute train ride to Argenteuil, where Monet created some of his most recognizable paintings. Travel a little further to Auvers-sur-Oise to see the church that Van Gogh made famous.

Monet’s Waterlilies at l’Orangerie (LWY)

Home is where the art is. Paris has many notable addresses of famous artists. In one block of Montmartre alone, you can find Van Gogh’s former apartment, the café where he took breakfast each day, and a former studio of Picasso. You can also hop the Métro to Batignolles in the 17^th arrondissement, where Manet and other impressionists captured cafés on canvas. Or if you’re feeling a little wistful, visit one of the big cemeteries, Père-Lachaise or Montparnasse, to see the graves of well-known artistes like Man Ray, Henri Fantin-Latour, Camille Pissarro and Georges Seurat. While Père-Lachaise has a lot of sober, ornate tombstones, Montparnasse may be the most artsy cemetery you’ll ever see.

Think local. Seek out smaller galleries. They’re everywhere and you avoid the lines and the elbowing of the big musées. And even better, most are free. You just may discover some new art that one day will hang in d’Orsay.

View From Montmartre (Nicole Gustin)

You can wait in lines to see the classics hung on walls. Or you can experience the art of Paris as the masters did. And really, why not do both?

Related Links:

• Need another arty fix? I Heart Paris checks out Yayoi Kusama’s retrospective at the Pompidou
• If you’re in Paris this weekend, don’t miss Le Fooding’s extraordinary culinary event, La Cambuse Effervescente. Get your ticket before they run out!
• Once you’re full on art and dinner, how about dessert? Adam Wayda shares his favorite Parisian patisseries

Written by Nicole Gustin for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

It’s 1905 in Paris. Visitors to the Salon d’Automne are outraged. Who is that flamboyant woman with the audaciously colorful hat? Or rather who could have painted such a daring work? Matisse’s Woman with a Hat shocked most viewers. However, it was avidly appreciated, and swiftly purchased, by two new art connoisseurs; Gertrude and Leo Stein, sparking a fabulous legacy of 20th century art patronage and perhaps the greatest collection of Modern art of the era. This collection is currently brought together for the first time in decades in Paris, in a special exhibit at the Grand Palais.

The Stein family, based in San Francisco, first came to Paris in 1878 when the siblings Gertrude, Leo and Michael were still children. This initial visit must have struck a cord, as they each eventually gravitated back to Europe as adults by 1904. Having sold off their family’s holdings back in the U.S., the Steins could live a comfortable bohemian life in Paris and were quickly drawn to collecting art.

The Grand Palais exhibit opens with some fine examples of their earliest acquisitions, several works by late impressionist masters, in particular Renoir and Cezanne, purchased during their first visit to the Salon d’Automne in 1904. These works would not only adorn the walls of the Steins’ respective apartments on rue Madame and rue Fleurus, they would also serve as inspiration for the next generation of young artists who started frequenting the Steins’ Saturday night Salons, lively evenings of conversation and debate over the ensuing new ideas of the modernist movement.

The next year’s Salon d’Automne also featured the more “traditional” artists, however, just as the impressionists had shocked the art world with their innovative works forty years prior, new artists such as the bold Fauves were causing a stir. While it was Gertrude and Leo who purchased Matisse’s aforementioned masterpiece, it was Michael and Sarah who became avid collectors and friends of the artist. Over the next few decades, they almost exclusively focused their collection on his works, many of which are shown here, several displaying the unique bond Matisse had with Michael and Sarah such as the two portraits he made of them and some paintings featuring their son Allan.

Matisse might have been one of the most important leading artists of the turn of the 20th century, however, he was fervently rivaled by another visionary artist; Pablo Picasso – who in turn was greatly supported by Gertrude and Leo. Gertrude first met Picasso in 1906 and they quickly formed a strong, if not turbulent, friendship. The exhibition features a number of wonderful Picassos from their collection, including the imposing Cezanne inspired pre-cubist portrait of Gertrude, but perhaps the most intriguing are eight original sketches and studies for Picasso’s first cubist work Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907), tightly displayed together on one wall, just as they might have been hung on the walls rue Fleurus.

Gertrude considered herself not merely as a patron of artists, but rather as their equal, a literary modernist, gaining inspiration for her writing from their new concepts on composition as she was developing into one of the most reputed American female writers. After WWI, Gertrude’s rue de Fleurus salon reflected her increasing interest in writing, as the artists started being replaced by the Lost Generation writers.

The end of the exhibit shows her appreciation for newer artists such as Juan Gris, then Francis Picabia and Balthus. This feels like a slightly weak closure to the amazing artistic odyssey of the Steins, who helped shape the direction of art history. Overall, the exhibit, is an exciting way to take an artistic trip back in time to one of the most creative moments in modern history … and then experience a little bit of bohemian Paris yourself, wandering the streets of the Left Bank or Montmartre in the footsteps of the Steins, Picasso, Matisse and Hemmingway.

Context Travel is arranging small group and private visits of the exhibit led by modern art historians. For more information and dates click here.

Written by Lily Heise from Context Travel for the HiP Paris Blog. All images courtesy of the Grand Palais. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out our website Haven in Paris.

I’m a museum junky. I love nothing more than passing a day wandering through endless corridors of art and antiquities, but after a few hours standing on hard marble, I’m usually in need of cold drinks and some serious snacks. Unfortunately, most museums suffer from what I like to call “Disneyland Dining”, overpriced, poor-quality food with limited options, usually served cafeteria style.  And that’s not the worst of it! With food in hand and nowhere to sit, hungry patrons usually have to stalk fellow diners to snag a (very dirty) table the second someone stands up – not exactly my idea of fun.

Café Richlieu-Angelina at the Louvre

There are, thankfully, a few exceptions to the rule. Lucky for me, they can also be found in some of Paris’ best museums. Delicious, well-prepared meals in beautifully decorated (and often historic) dining rooms; impeccable service and (gasp) clean tables… heaven!

Here are four of my favorites:

The Richelieu-Angelina Café at the Louvre:
You can find this little oasis right next to the entrance to the Napoleon III apartments. The white and grey interior is usually offset with huge bouquets of beautiful fresh flowers, contributing to the serene atmosphere. All of the Angelina favorites are on the menu, including gourmet salads and sandwiches. My favorite snack is a glass of wine, the cheese plate, and one of their decadent deserts. In the winter, I always order the famous hot chocolate to sip as I gaze at the fabulous view of the famous glass pyramid.

Musée d’Orsay (yellowmo) and the Café at the Jacquemart-André (umami88)

Le Café Jacquemart-André at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre:

I always have a hard time deciding whether to sit in the gilt dining room or on the grand terrace overlooking the small, walled garden at this special little museum. I usually order one of their salads leaden with gourmet toppings along with a decadent dessert (which rival those of Laduree in my opinion; the citron meringue tart is to die for). The Sunday brunch is a great option too.

Les Ombres at Quai Branly (Hotels Paris Rive Gauche, Guillaume Sautereau)

Les Ombres at the Musee Quai Branly:
This café is one of those serious, fine dining restaurants that caters to the movers and shakers of the Parisian business world. Suits abound here, but the hint of stuffiness and high prices are easy to overlook once you catch a glimpse of the amazing view of the Eiffel Tower from the glass ceiling dining room and the huge rooftop terrace. The food is always delicious and well executed, but the bonus dessert plate of mini treats you get with your bill wins my heart (and makes the expensive check a little easier to swallow)

Les Ombres at Quai Branly (Hotels Paris Rive Gauche)

Restaurant at the Musee D’Orsay:
Sure, there’s a cafeteria upstairs, but you won’t regret allowing yourself to be transported in this stunning dining room, complete with crystal chandeliers and sumptuous ceiling frescos. The main menu is traditionally French, but the chef always adds some specials inspired by the museum’s temporary exhibits.
What about you? If you know of any great places to eat before or after a museum visit, please let us know in the comments below!

Dining room at the Musée d’Orsay (yellowmo)

Related Links:

• For more Arty Eats, check out Amy Thomas top Paris museum restaurants here
• Amy also has a nice roundup of Paris street art
• The NY Times also found some great places to eat in Paris museums.
• Looking for more things to do in Paris? My Mélange has a great compact guide to her favorite Paris haunts

Written by Ariel Kocourek for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.