I consider myself an adventurous eater, and from an early age, I had a French-leaning palate. As soon as I learned to chew solid foods, I began inhaling Roquefort, paté, and on occasion, entire sticks of butter. But despite my penchant for richness, there are certain French foods that still scare the living daylights out of me. In some cases, it’s the result of a past trauma, and in others, it’s just an instinct that whispers in my ear, “Run far and fast away from this food.” These are the items on my Do-Not-Eat list:

Boudin noir and mashed potatoes (Roboppy)

1. Boudin noir (a.k.a. blood sausage) is just that: a disturbingly purple sausage full of pork and pig’s blood. The name alone is enough to make any rational person run for the hills, but then of course, there’s the taste. Have you ever been on a car trip and passed through rural territory, only to have your air supply adulterated by the putrid smell of cow and pig manure? That’s pretty much what blood sausage tastes like, only more potent, because this time you’re not just smelling it, you’re eating it.

How do I know? I used to work for a French man who cooked lunch for our team every day. In general, these lunches provided me with the opportunity to happily eat like a real Parisian. On some days, we’d have tomato tartelettes followed by roast chicken and fiery mustard, salad, yogurt and fruit, chocolate, and to punctuate it all, a strong espresso.

But on one occasion, I sat down and was promptly served blood sausage. Still a newbie, I was excited to try a regional specialty, especially one that was served with yummy cooked apples. But after one excruciatingly nasty bite, boudin noir went on my list of foods not to be repeated. I haven’t felt the same about poor, innocent apples ever since.

Boudin noir and caramelized apples (Sifu Renka)

2. It comes as no surprise that andouillette (a corse-grained sausage made with pork intestines and other mysterious chunks) is a polarizing food. One portion of the population loves to complain about its nastiness, and the other portion licks its lips at the very mention of it. When I first heard the complaints of the former group, I used to think, “How bad could it really be?” Surely these weaklings were exaggerating. But recently, I had my first (and last) run-in with the dreaded thing.

I had taken off for a lovely weekend in Normandy, determined to eat “locally”: Calvados, caramel, apples, cider, Camembert… how can you go wrong? Well, here’s how. We were almost done with an incredible meal at Le P’tit Resto in Bayeux (which I highly recommend) when I opted for the cheese course: Pont-l’Évêque wrapped around a delicate slice of andouillette. After one bite, it was clear this was not going to happen. Trying to keep my gag reflex in check, I stealthily hid the remains of the offensive thing under the few salad leafs on my plate. I thought I had done a fairly convincing job, but when the waitress returned, she immediately recognized my trick and made a frowny face. I began to make excuses, and then suddenly realized, “Wait a minute. You just fed me intestinal chunks. Shame on you.” Then again, I just voluntarily ate them in the name of haute cuisine. Shame on me.

Left: steak tartare (NwongPR); Right: a Parisian butcher truck (Austinevan)

3. It’s time for a breather: steak tartare. This one isn’t so bad. When mixed with the right proportions of onions, raw egg, capers, mustard and Worcestershire sauce, it basically tastes like a raw hamburger. It’s just that I prefer my hamburgers cooked—go figure. I will eat occasional bites of tartare, but a whole plate? No thank you. It’s an issue of volume, I suppose. Everything in moderation, especially ground-up cow.

Fromage de Tete (Roboppy)

4. And then there’s fromage de tête, or head cheese. Call me unsophisticated, but this name just does not appeal. It generally comes in a terrine and consists of “parts of a cow’s head” set in gelatin. The parts can vary, of course, and sometimes they’ll even throw in some tongue, feet, or heart. Bonus! I have yet to eat this delicacy, and I must admit, I’m in no hurry.

Oursin (Noodlepie)

5. Oursin. Sea urchin. I realize a lot of people like these guys, but to me, they taste and feel like a salt-saturated sponge in my mouth. You’re more likely to encounter them in the south of France, where people sometimes spread them on grilled bread and munch away. Just thinking about it makes me want to rinse my mouth out with soap, which would be an improvement on the briny explosion oursin imposes on the palette. I’ll stick with the good old cheese-and-baguette formula, thanks very much.

So there’s my list. What about you, readers? Any French food traumas to report?

Related links:

• And that’s not it! Check this list out for more freaky French foods
• It had to happen: Haribo Fraise Tagada flavored macarons
• Dorie Greenspan has the low-down on steak tartare

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Yes, more chocolate! Paris does not lack for it. But in a town that boasts everything from over-the-top delicacies to perfectly executed classics, we’re always impressed when a shop manages to distinguish itself from the cacao-hawking competition.

Puerto Cacao is not the most decadent, shocking or renowned chocolate shop in Paris, but it might just be the most conscientious. On a recent visit, we sat down with store manager José Evrard to learn more about owner Guillaume Hermitte’s vision for an équitable (fair-trade) chocolate shop that does as much to promote social good as it does to promote deliciousness.

Amazing hot chocolate! Tory Hoen

Hermitte’s team works directly with Venezuelan cacao producers, cutting out unnecessary middlemen who might drive up prices for consumers and deprive cacao producers of fair payment. In addition, they work with “entreprises d’insertion,” organizations that help people who have encountered various difficulties (poverty, imprisonment, etc.) re-enter the workforce and improve their lives.

So if you had any doubts, the mission is sound. But let’s get down to business—what about the chocolate?

Julien Hausherr

The store is stocked with classics like chocolate bars in a variety of flavors (like white chocolate with a sprinkling of pink pepper, milk chocolate with cashews), elegant pastilles, eight kinds of chocolate bark (we were intrigued by the milk chocolate with sesame seeds), an ever-flowing fondue fountain, and some crazy chocolate masks that you can decorate with edible paint. If yours turns out to be less than a masterpiece, you can just eat it and call it a day.

Julien Hausherr

After browsing the goods, I started sampling. Of course, I had to try the chocolat chaud. Here, it’s made with rich organic milk, 100% pâte de cacao, a splash of vanilla and a hint of organic sugar. The overall effect is decidedly grown-up. I could see a sugar-seeking child being disappointed by the bitter finish, but for an aspiring adult like me, this interpretation provided a not-too-cloying way to appreciate a mugful of liquid chocolate.

Julien Hausherr

More moderate folks might have stopped there, but I persevered, digging into a slice of the fresh-baked fondant au chocolat, which was perhaps the richest version I’ve ever encountered. The oils from the cacao were literally oozing out of the deep, chocolate slice, and as I washed it down with the chocolat chaud, I suddenly understood the meaning of true gluttony. And it felt good… for a minute. A paralyzing chocolate coma ensued.

Julien Hausherr

Regardless, this socially conscious shop (located just across from the Marché d’Aligre) is well worth a stop. In addition to decadent desserts, Puerto Cacao also offers 4 different weekend brunch menus featuring homemade jams, chocolate spreads, organic bread, and savory tarts. They are also happy to host bachelorette parties in which brides-to-be can gather their friends around the fondue fountain to kiss their singledom goodbye. Bittersweet to say the least.

Puerto Cacao, 2, rue Théophile Roussel 75012 Paris Tel: 01 43 47 58 60   

Related links:

• David Lebovitz makes a mouth watering chocolate hazelnut spread.
• Lindsey Tramuta writes a review about Télescope a fab new coffee joint by Palais Royal in Paris.
• Do it in Paris also likes Puerto Cacao

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Photos by Julien Hausherr; Contact: julienhausherr@hotmail.fr. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Being vegetarian anywhere requires extra effort and planning when it comes to dining out. Being a vegetarian in a place that eats pigeon, adores offal, and extols a head to tail philosophy (that is, Paris) requires Napoleonic strategizing.

At least it used to. In recent years, the dining scene in the City of Light has been opening up to alternative styles and menus, making it easier than ever to go veg (although you can still expect the occasional eye-roll from a waiter who simply doesn’t understand les végétariens). But whether you chalk it up to Anglo and ethnic infiltration, acceptance of new ingredients and spices, or simple ennui with traditional French cooking, it’s a great time to embrace your inner green goddess and take this meat-eating city by storm. Here are four delicious strategies to help.

Merce and the Muse (Julien Hausherr)

Strategy 1: Eat a big lunch

When Rose Carrarini (who’s British) and her French husband Jean-Charles opened Rose Bakery in 2002, their focus on fresh market salads—think: grilled tofu and tomatoes, and artichokes mixed with millet and chickpeas—was shockingly different from the staple of steak frites that many Parisians ate for lunch. Ten years and two additional outposts later, it’s hard to imagine Paris without Rose’s organic market salads, fresh quiches and famous carrot and pound cakes.

Similarly, when Marc Grossman opened Bob’s Juice Bar in 2006, the smoothies and bagel sandwiches the native New Yorker served up were wildly novel. Since then Grossman has not only spawned another café, Bob’s Kitchen, which serves additional goodies like pancakes and muesli, but a whole wave of casual cantines have followed suit. Hypercool concept stores Merci and Colette both have veg-friendly subterranean eateries; take-out lunch spots like Lemoni and Cojean always offer beautiful soups, sandwiches and salads; and lovely little cafes and bakeries such as SuperNature, Merce and the Muse, Tartes Kluger and Bread and Roses all offer outstanding veg fare.

Chez Omar (Roboppy)

Strategy 2: Eat ethnic

Another way to sate yourself without a bite of bifteck is by taking advantage of Paris’ ethnic restaurants. In the first arrondissement, Rue Saint-Anne is an oasis of Japanese dining options including hearty udon soups (try Kunitoraya or Higuma) and “okonomiyaki,” Japanese pancakes made of flour, grated yam, water or dashi, eggs and shredded cabbage. Or you can get stuffed on Indian lentils and curries (Saravanna Bhavan, Krishna Bhavan) and Moroccan couscous and tagines (Chez Omar). Decent pizza (Pizza Chic, La Briciola), and Italian (Caffe dei Cioppi, Olio Pane Vino) abounds and, with last year’s arrival of Candelaria, Mexican is firmly on the ethnic eating map of Paris.

Higuma (Laurie Illan)

Strategy 3: Call ahead

Since one of the great allures of Paris is its culinary heritage, it’s a shame not to make it to a neighborhood bistro, brasserie or café for a French classic. And while I’ve never heard anyone complain about a nice chevre chaud salad, accompanied by incomparable baguette and maybe a side of frites, such a meal becomes predictable and defeats the whole purpose and delight of eating out in Paris.

The trick is to call ahead to a restaurant and alert the chef that a vegetarian will be dining there. So long as they have the advance notice and proper ingredients, most chefs are all too happy to flex their kitchen prowess. Rino and La Gazetta are two great options to begin.

Amy Thomas – Tartes Kluger Paris

Strategy 4: Forage

Of course one of the biggest pleasures in Paris is going to the outdoor markets, where any self-respecting vegetarian will be beside herself. Everything from the apples and figs to asparagus and salsify will leave you wondering why all the other produce you’ve ever eaten in your life doesn’t taste as delicious.

And then there’s the dairy. Eating yogurt, eggs and cheese in Paris is revelatory because they’re so much purer and more flavorful than the industrialized, pasteurized versions we’re used to in the States. Grab some fresh fruit, a hunk of cheese and a baguette from the boulangerie, and don’t forget the chocolate, and even the most ardent omnivore would agree: you’ve got yourself one of the most divinely created meals on earth.

Carin Olsson

Related Links:

• Shopping for local produce in Paris - Phyllis Flick tells all
• Voy Alimento is a vegan resto off of the Canal St Martin
• For a shopping lunch break, check out the Galeries Lafayette’s organic cantine

Written by Amy Thomas for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

La Bouffe:

Ongoing: Cédric Casanova, the Italian genius behind ‘La Tete dans les Olives’ strikes again with his just-opened épicerie, Au Conservatoire. Book the shop’s only table for yourself and seven of your closest friends for Cédric’s “Pique-niques Gastronomiques”, a tasty selection of Sicilian small plates with a little specialty shopping on the side. Au Conservatoire, 14 rue Sainte Marthe, 75 010, Paris. To make reservations, email: picnic@latetedanslesolives.com

Ongoing: An elusive new stranger has appeared on the Paris bar scene: L’Inconnu. Hip coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night, and for those in it for the long haul, a DJ dance party that goes until 2am. Pop in for afternoon coffee and you might just find yourself dancing the night away. 17-19 rue de Mazagran, 75010, Paris.

April 7: In case you need another excuse to drink delicious French wines, here you have it: Caves Augé, one of the oldest stores in Paris, is hosting a free tasting of wines from the Rhone Valley. À votre santé! Caves Augé, 116 Blvd Haussmann, 75008, Paris.

BBrown6

April 12: Relive George Lucas’ cult classic “American Graffiti” with burgers, hotdogs and more: Street Food Party’s first event of the season revisits classics with a fresh, French twist. Expect girls on roller-skates, live music and gastro-rock interpretations of classic American drive-in fare. At La Rotonde, 6-8 Pl. de la Bataille Stalingrad, 75019, Paris. Starts at 8pm.

April 7-8: You know all about this super-cool fun-for-all weekend of brunch and more, but it’s too good to not mention again. Brunch Bazar is back. 66 rue de Turenne, 75003, Paris.

Fred Jagueneau, Kerndwa1, 2003

Les Arts

April 25-May 15: Be sure to check out the Polaroids of globetrotting, fashion-loving photographer Fred Jagueneau in “Dreaming of Zerzura,” curated by Nan Goldin herself. 9 place des Vosges, 75004, Paris

April 12: The Palais de Tokyo has been closed for four months of renovations, but the new and improved space is finally reopening in April. You can catch a behind-the-scenes preview of the exciting changes to the center during its opening party, featuring 30 full hours of programming including performances and concerts. The Palais de Tokyo will officially reopen to the public on April 19^th. 13 Ave du Président Wilson, 75013, Paris.

April 13-15: Tap into your inner child at France Distraction, an interactive installation filled with inflatable structures and ball pits that press visitors to question the absurdity in corporate procedures and everyday “adult life.” 5 rue Curial, 75019, Paris.

Highlight Park, Julien Colomber, Galerie Metropolis

Through April 14: Julien Colombier turns every day objects into canvases for his psychedelic landscapes. Highlight Park, a custom-built a half-pipe designed to fit the gallery space perfectly, features a forest scene strangely reminiscent of one of our favorite children’s books… 16 rue de Montmorency, 75003, Paris.

Through May 5: Peter Brook returns to the famed Bouffes du Nord theater for a production of “The Suit.” South African author Can Themba wrote the piece as a short story and had the ill fortune of passing before it could be turned into a play. The story is one of a slow and painful revenge, but the production is sure to please. 37 bis Boulevard de la Chapelle, 75010, Paris.

Through June 17: The Grand Palais is hosting the first French retrospective of iconic fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Designed by his wife, June, the show includes more than 200 photographs that are sure to shock, impress and inspire. 3 Avenue du Général Eisenhower, 75008, Paris.

Wonder Vintage Market

Le Shopping:

April 14: Scouring vintage shops is often one of the greatest ways to find unique pieces, but picking through the junk to find the gems can be a downer. Fortunately, Wonder Vintage Market has brought together only the best for a one-day shopping event at Bastille Design Center. 74 Blvd Richard-Lenoir, 75011, Paris.

April 27-May 8: If you’ll be in Paris with young ones, take a family trip to the Foire de Paris. This 100+ year-old exhibition boasts artists and craftsmen from around the globe. 1 Place Porte de Versailles, 75015, Paris.

Slightly Winded

La Musique:

April 5: German duo and music festival frequenters Digitalism are seasoned players in the world of electronic music. Raised on Berlin’s Love Parade and the like, the pair is dedicated to successfully marrying rock and electro. To catch the group in action, put your dancing shoes on and head to their show at La Gaîté Lyrique. 3 bis rue Papin, 75003, Paris.

April 12: Aaron Parks, an inventive jazz pianist who has the ability to paint smooth and colorful scenes with his notes, plays at the famous Duc des Lombards. 42 rue des Lombards, 75001, Paris.

April 19: For some classic French chanson with an edgy twist, be sure to catch the Carmen Maria Vega show at La Maroquinerie. A Guatemalan by birth, Carmen’s music and style are irreverent yet likeable. 23 rue Boyer, 75020, Paris.

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

It was exactly my fourth post ever…  Those who had been following my blog right from the very first day (if I did have any followers to speak of then) saw a shy Argentinean blogger producing some mauve macarons, photographed in a ring box.

The photo was picked up by Foodgawker and before I had even really understood what blogging was about, the world was looking at my blog: Singapore, Alaska, Arkansas, Russia… One thousand clicks in two hours. That was back in 2009. You can still find the recipe here, and in Audrey Hepburn’s company here.

Savory macarons are not my invention. In fact, the “father” of modern macarons, Pierre Hermé, started playing with the idea of giving traditional sweet macarons a savory twist long ago.

One day, I thought of making something elegant… Something with salmon, and something black… Yes, black macarons!

I went to G. DeTout to buy black food coloring. Back home, I started adding tiny quantities of this coloring to my Italian meringue, and it started turning…mauve. Mauve? Another half coffee spoon… deeper mauve! I paused and wondered: should I continue adding color, or stop here? I hate it when macarons dye my tongue! And this shade of mauve was so beautiful… And it matched my poppy seeds perfectly! Yes, the match was sealed.

Today, my mauve salmon macarons have become a trademark of my Menu Malbec catering service. After all this time, I decided a new photo shoot was in order. After all, two years of blogging had improved my photography skills.

I have to admit that sometimes people look at me with a skeptical eye: “Salmon in a sweet macaron? Is the crust savory at least?” Until the first bite, when all doubts vanish!

The savory macarons are here to stay… Not only with salmon, but with foie gras now as well…who could think of something more appropriate for holiday parties? Chicissime!

Basic Macaron Recipe (depending on size, you will get approx. 60 shells = 30 macarons)

almond flour, 190 gr
icing  sugar, 190 gr
egg whites, 70 gr

For the syrup:
granulated sugar, 190gr
water, 60gr
egg whites, 70gr

To make macarons, we use egg whites that have been kept in the fridge for at least one day…Why? Egg whites from fresh eggs have a firmer structure, they are less supple, and for the process of blending the egg whites with the other ingredients,  “old” whites yield better results. Mind you! Remember to take the egg whites out of the fridge a few hours before starting so that they are at room temperature.

Sift the almond flour and icing sugar together. In a large bowl, fold 2/3 of this mixture in with the egg whites, and the food coloring. Remember that colors fade with baking so don’t be afraid if the color is a little intense at first. Combine the ingredients briskly. Don’t worry, nothing dangerous can happen at this stage!

Put the whites in the bowl of your stand mixer. In a saucepan, bring the water and sugar to 115°C. When your syrup reaches 100°C, start whipping the egg whites slowly into soft peaks. The idea is the whites should be ready the moment the syrup reaches the 115°C. Slowly, pour the syrup into the whites, and continue whipping until cool. Bravo! You have made an Italian meringue!

Add 1/3 of this meringue to the remaining 1/3 of the almond powder and powdered sugar mix. Combine everything well. Yes! Don’t be afraid of actually crushing your meringue, this is what you are supposed to do here! Add the rest of the meringue in little by little. The final result shouldn’t be too firm or too runny! Congratulations! You have finished the “macaronage”!

Pipe the macarons (with a pastry bag fitted with a plain 1 cm tip) on a baking sheet with a non-stick liner. For this recipe, my macarons measured 4cm in diameter. Tip the baking sheet slightly for an even final result. Let them sit until they are no longer sticky when you touch them lightly.

Put them in the oven (150°C). After 6 minutes, rotate the baking sheet for an even result. Bake 6 more minutes, but keep in mind cooking time may vary slightly based on your oven. Take them out of the oven and let them rest on the non-stick liner (remove them from the baking sheet otherwise they will continue baking!). Desired result? Crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside…

Enjoy!

Notes:

1. The syrup should be folded with the whites at 118°C, this is why we remove it from the heat at 115°C….three more degrees will be reached by the time you move the saucepan from the stove to the stand-mixer.
2. If you use two baking sheets, instead of one (one on top of the other), you will prevent excessive drying….

For the filling:

* poppy seeds
* smoked salmon, 200 gr
* Cream cheese, 300 gr (any cream cheese, not too soft in texture, or mascarpone)
* Vodka (enough to “soften the cheese” and according to personal taste)

(for 25/30 macarons, depending on size)

Related Links

• Lost in Cheeseland reports on the 2012 Macaron day in Paris!
• Adam Wayda from Paris Patisseries shares his Top 5 favorite macarons
• Are you looking for macarons in Berlin? Check out Art Sucre

Written by Cristina Lasarte for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Cristina Lasarte. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When I moved to Paris in the spring of 2009, I was as ravenous to explore the city’s food scene as I was to find a home and community of friends. One way I found I could meet people, learn a bit about local culture and customs, and eat some delicious food all at the same time was by taking the occasional cooking class. Which is how I met Rachel Khoo, author of La Petite Cuisine (Penguin, UK) and host of Little Paris Kitchen on the BBC, both debuting this spring.

It was a bright and sunny August afternoon that I found myself attending the modern Electrolux-sponsored kitchen inside the Palais de Tokyo. There were 12 of us students and I could tell the pretty Brit with red lips, a retro sundress and kitchen confidence had something going on. That something—I learned while whipping eggs for our plum clafoutis as she filleted our Provençal sardines—was pastry training from Le Cordon Bleu and a  burgeoning career as a “food creative.”

Over the next few months I experienced Rachel’s creative food endeavors: a muesli-tasting party while she developed recipes for her first cookbook, Barres à Céreales, Muesli et Granola Maison (Marabout, 2010). A pie-making class at La Cocotte. An 80s-themed dinner party, complete with Pac-Man shaped foie gras. And, most exciting of all, I was invited to be there for the grand opening of her Parisian restaurant—a wee party of two at La Petite Cuisine à Paris.

Rachel’s itty-bitty restaurant was one of the most coveted reservations in town throughout the spring and summer of 2011. As soon as word got out about her cooking—described by Rachel herself as “an English girl’s perspective on French food”—everyone wanted a taste. My lunch made it easy to understand why.

To begin, we had cauliflower baked in a creamy béchamel sauce and topped with breadcrumbs and hazelnuts—a humble vegetable, sinfully gratin-ized. The main was a beautiful sweet and floral orange-lavender chicken, served alongside perfectly dressed greens. Again, modest fare made fabulous. And for dessert, we sliced into soft, warm baked apples speared with cinnamon sticks and served in a pool of béchamel, this one sweet (“If you know how to make a béchamel, you can make 10 different sauces,” Rachel said). To accompany all the deliciousness, there was rosé from the South of France, pain des amis from Du Pain et des Idées and lovely conversation with Rachel Bajada, the other lucky lunch guest that maiden day.

As Rachel toiled—ever so stylishly—and word spread—ever so swiftly—the inevitable happened: she got her own cooking show. Rachel’s mission to break down French recipes so they’re not only less complicated, but more modern, struck the right chord. A deal was struck with BBC Two and, as of late January, filming began in Rachel’s wee 3m2 kitchen.

Amy Thomas

The first season, airing in the UK this spring, will be six episodes in which Rachel takes viewers out to the best markets and food purveyors and into her humble kitchen. Beef bourguignon and tarte tatin will be served. Bellies will rumble. And the inevitable comparison to Nigella Lawson will be made. But don’t be fooled. With her Malay-Chinese-Austrian heritage, her modern sensibilities and her undeniably fun charm, Rachel will prove she’s in a (cooking) class all of her own.

Written by Amy Thomas for the HiP Paris Blog. All images (except last) from rachelkhoo.com. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

To celebrate Valentine’s Day four years ago, I dined at Le Grand Colbert, the restaurant made famous by Diane Keaton and her roast chicken in the film Something’s Gotta Give. For me, it will forever be famous for far different reasons. Over clangorous dining room voices and crumb-laden plates, my husband proposed to me.

The American couple seated next to us gushed as I beamed with joy and threw my arms around my new fiancé. The fullness of the moment was heightened by the Belle Epoque backdrop and the tuxedoed waiters who dashed back and forth with alacrity between the kitchen and the dining room, forging the surreal sensation of being the stars on a Hollywood film set. Unbearably prosaic but perfectly appropriate for the moment.

Since then, we’ve maintained the tradition of dining out on Valentine’s Day. Some of our choices have been memorable, some not even worth mentioning. We flirted with the idea of returning to Le Grand Colbert last month to relive our engagement but given the caliber of restaurants that have opened over the last four years, we couldn’t be bothered with average food and contrived theatrics, no matter how emotionally significant.

Instead, we headed toward Gare de l’Est, an area of the 10^th arrondissement we seldom find ourselves exploring, to try a restaurant that has been on my go-eat-there-now list for ages. Playtime, run by Franco-Swedish couple Viveka Sandklef and Jean-Michel Rassinoux, sits inconspicuously on rue des Petits Hôtels in between kebab take-away joints and just a hop away from the covered St. Quentin market.

We were one of the first parties to arrive, right at 8pm for the start of the dinner service. The space was inviting with candlelight and a quick glance around the room had us feeling like we’d walked onto the set of Mad Men.  Each table was thoughtfully dressed with a flower to mark the occasion but that’s where the Valentine’s Day trappings ended. We were already sipping our wine as fellow diners started pouring in – families, double dates and a few couples out for an inventive twist to V-Day dining.

The interior was designed by Viveka herself and is decidedly retro – colored Eames chairs, antique furnishings, and an attractive blend of tiling and hard-wood floors. Funky, 60’s accessories pepper the airy dining room for a playful vintage vibe that pays tribute to Jacques Tati’s film Playtime.

The cuisine is manned by Rassinoux who spent five years in the States sharpening his skills in the kitchens of the Ritz Carlton. He incorporates eastern flavors with creative finesse, right down to the desserts (we opted for the crunchy nems filled with dates, cinnamon and apples with a side of orange blossom ice cream) for a style that can only be considered contemporary French if not Franco-Asian fusion. The only traditional traces of ‘French’ to be found, however, were in the wine list and bread basket which was brimming with rye and pain de campagne. An impressive departure from the stodgy French dishes that lay before us at Le Grand Colbert four years prior.

What I particularly liked about Playtime, aside from the fun décor, was the way Rassinoux included touches of exotic lightness to each dish. The Lapsang infusion poured on top of my pollock added distinctive flavor that both warmed and surprised. Ingredients on the menu were seasonal and market fresh and the presentation was meticulous but without the pretension that often characterizes contemporary bistro fare.

Our only complaint was the lengthy wait between dishes (but then again, nothing is prepared in advance so that’s hardly a legitimate point of contention) and our aloof waiter who excelled at impersonal smiling but fell short on diligence. The playful ambiance and flavorful plates more than compensated for these flaws and I’m eager to go back for lunch.

As we headed back out into the Paris chill after a fantastic dinner, my husband and I realized that all of the meals that have impressed us of late haven’t been by the Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Elysées or the Palais-Royal, which is home to Le Grand Colbert, but rather on the outskirts, in the bohemian and imperfect neighborhoods where locals play. Visitors to Paris have a tendency to conflate worthwhile dining spots with the city’s epicenter but some of the most startling and inventive cuisine is found slightly on the tourist fringe. The 10^th and 11^th arrondissements, for instance, are just starting to pique the interest of travelers. And while there’s no denying the ways a 19^th century brasserie can enchant, Playtime dishes up the kind of experience worthy of a trek outside the box.

Playtime: 5 Rue des Petits Hôtels  75010 Paris, France    Telephone: 01 44 79 03 98

Closed: Saturday and Sunday all day +  Monday night.  Metro: Gare de L’est/ Gare du Nord/Poissonniere

Related Links:

• Paris Bobo reviews Le Chateaubriand, an exciting neo-bistro in the hip and happening 11th
• The 10th is full of great little hidden gems. HiP Paris loves Vivant restaurant
• For another great bistro in Paris, check out Aux Deux Amis

Written by Lindsey Tramuta for the Hip Paris Blog. All photos taken by Julien Hausherr. Contact:julienhausherr@hotmail.fr. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

In a few days, I’ll be sipping wine at un petit café in the Marais, just in time, we all hope, for the weather to finally swing toward Spring. There’s too much to squeeze into this 3-week trip.

Besides visiting Verjus and Au Passage bien sur, I hope to dine at Septime and Bistro Volnay. Perhaps I’ll splurge on a meal at L’hôtel Thoumieux. Though, the best part of being in my own Paris pied-a-terre is stocking up at the Marche des Enfants Rouge for home-cooked dishes that always seem to taste better in Paris.

Merci concept store (Liquidx)

While I hope to buy something special at Merci (a girl can dream), I’ll definitely pop into Les Mauvaises Graines, an urban garden concept store in Montmartre, and will likely fall in love with a handcrafted souvenir at Le Petite Atelier de Paris.

On one of my weekends abroad, I’m jetting to Copenhagen. Being a New England girl, I suppose I’m a sucker for the cold weather. I’m also eager to visit what’s hailed as the best restaurant in the world and after several odd-hour phone calls to Denmark, lucked out with a reservation at Noma. We’ll see if Copenhagen food stacks up to Paris culinaria.

Septime (Lindsey Tramuta)

More than anything though, I simply want to find my favorite spots near my Marais flat. I hope to take my daily espresso at Merce and the Muse, lunch at Glou and unwind with an evening wine at La Perle. I promise to only visit Jacques Genin’s fabulous boutique once or twice if, and only if, I take a few strolls around the Square du Temple.

What will you do on your next visit to Paris? Please send all ideas my way, including your favorite croissant spot, because, there can never be too many croissant shop visits when in the city of pastries. Au revoir!

Cannelés (Leedav)

Related Links:

• For a fresh taste on traditional French pastries, check out this Japanese-influenced Patisserie
• Maybe Maggie should add this Parisian Hot Dog to her list while she’s there…
• … and check out this natural-meats-and-wines bistro by the Canal Saint Martin

Written by Maggie Battista for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Here at HiP, we’re always up for a good expat adventure tale, particularly one in which desserts play a starring role. In her new book, Paris, My Sweet, food writer (and regular HiP Paris contributor!) Amy Thomas regales us with stories from her two-year stint in Paris, where she wrote advertising copy for Louis Vuitton by day and scoured the city for sweets in her spare time.

All in all, it sounds like a pretty ideal existence, but like all expats in Paris, Amy faced a typical series of ups and downs. It’s no surprise that she fell hard for the city upon arrival; and it’s also no surprise that, once the initial Parisian shine wore off, Amy ultimately came to see the city’s not-quite-so-sweet side. It’s at this point that the story really starts to ring true for those of us who have been expats in Paris: you’re simultaneously charmed and alienated, comforted and challenged, energized and exhausted.

Paris, My Sweet; Takashi

As Amy weathered the highs and lows of expat life, she also covered serious ground in the dessert department, hitting all of Paris’ confectionary hotspots and sampling the city’s most decadent delights. This book is not only an account of her time in Paris, but also a goldmine of bonnes addresses (in both Paris and New York) for dessert lovers. This woman knows her way around a pâtisserie, and serious sugar-high seekers would do well to heed Amy’s recommendations.

Paris, My Sweet is a guidebook of sorts, but it’s also just a fun and decadent read—I devoured it in less than 48 hours, pausing only to scrounge up some chocolate now and again. In addition to making me hungry, Amy’s writing transported me back to Paris, a trip I am ever-eager to make, if only vicariously.

Evocateur

Below, I caught up with the author to talk Paris, pastries, and ultimately picking her favorite city.

You’re a dessert fiend, so tell us—what’s the main difference between American sweets and the Parisian variety?

American baking is a lot more creative and crazy, but at the same time, it’s a lot simpler. As amazing as everything was in Paris, it was so decadent. I definitely missed the American classics, like cookies and brownies, while I was there.

In your book, you recount dozens of sweet experiences in Paris. But if you had to recommend just one sugar-centric destination, what would it be?

It’s so subjective, but I would probably say Stohrer on Rue Montorgueil. It was my neighborhood bakery, but it’s also a beautiful, historic bakery. You can find anything you want there: chocolate, viennoiseries, cakes, tarts, savory stuff.  Everything they do is amazing.

Waitscm; H3_six

And aside from the desserts, what do you miss most about Paris now that you’re back in New York?

Definitely the Vélibs. When I go back to Paris to visit, that’s one of the things that makes me feel so alive—biking around the city. It’s just so fun. And I miss those days when you just start walking, and you walk all day because it’s so pretty and enchanting. You just want to keep going and soaking it up.

Your book details the culture shock you experienced as you adjusted to Paris. Did you have reverse culture shock when you ultimately returned to New York?

The first six to eight months back in New York were hard, because everything felt very harsh here. Paris is a big city too, but things are slower and there’s an appreciation for some of the more indulgent things in life. So coming back to New York was like a slap in the face, but after a while, I felt totally happy—especially once the weather warmed up.

Simon Goldenberg

So now that you’ve had some time to compare and contrast, what’s the verdict—Paris or New York?

New York is definitely home. I’m happier and more at peace here, even though there are things about Paris that I miss deeply. I sometimes get teary thinking about Paris and what I had there. The great thing is, I now have this connection to Paris. It became part of me.

And what about your cat, who has now lived on both sides of the Atlantic. Which city does he prefer?

I adopted him in New York, so I think he’s happy here. But he had a pretty kick-ass setup in Paris—lots of space and a sunny window perch that overlooked the rooftops. I’m sure he misses that.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Related Links:

• Buy Amy Thomas’ book Paris, My Sweet on Amazon now!
• Paris Patisseries also has a great list of Paris’ 38 Best Pastries
• Check out Amy’s Paris blog here
• For tips on the best pastries to be found in Paris and New York, check out Amy’s Sweet Freak blog

Paris is one of the best cities in the world for exceptional food and wine combinations. In a refreshing change of pace, restaurant le Clarisse offers their tasting menus paired with sake in addition to the standard wine route.  Although France’s gastronomic identity is undeniably tied to wine, who doesn’t like to opt for something original from time to time?

Tucked away in the 7^th on a street busy with bar and restaurant options, le Clarisse is an elegant stop offering French-inspired fare prepared with precision and delicacy by a Japanese chef. While the restaurant itself isn’t new, the change in chefs a little over a year ago makes it well worth renewed consideration.  Recently I was invited to taste test the sake-pairing menu and see what kind of revamp resulted from their association with Chef Sadaki Kajiwara.

The regularly changing menu is just the right size for my taste: four starters and five mains to choose from, each of which comes with a recommended wine or sake pairing and can be ordered a la carte or as part of a prix fixe menu. Restaurant director, wine connoisseur and in house sake expert, Jean-Philippe Pluvinet, is on hand to personally walk guests through the beverage pairings.

Pluvinet is responsible for each wine or sake match and does them with aplomb.  Thanks to his expertise, I learned that sake is not just a pitcher of harsh warm hooch served up alongside sushi and noodles – instead each sake can (and should!) be a delicate drink with its own personality. Amateurs will be pleasantly surprised by Le Clarisse’s range of junmai shu sakes that are not as strong as you might have been led to believe if you’ve had inferior sakes in the past.

My light and subtle vegetable ravioli starter was matched with the equally light Honryukarakuchi. My main, wild boar with pureed chestnuts, pomegranates and wasabi emulsion, came with the Kaze no mori, which had more oomph and a slight Poire William finish.  My dining partner started with the Carpaccio of Dublin bay prawns paired with Kokuryu followed by the red tuna in puff pastry and the Daissai 23 with its delicate floral aromas. While I like to diverge from the norm, I rarely stray too far from the cheese plate.  I finished with one and even got a sake that complimented the different cheeses quite nicely.  By the time the meal finished, I had a new appreciation of the range of sake on offer and the way each pairing played off the dish’s flavors.

The combination of good French food and good French wine is a beautiful thing. It’s one of the best aspects of living in Paris. But sometimes it takes an outsider to bring a fresh perspective to familiar things.  And sometimes a slight twist is just the ticket to shake up the familiar enough to make it interesting again. These two things are exactly what make le Clarisse worth a visit.

Restaurant Le Clarisse, 29 rue Surcouf – 75007. Three or five course menus with wine or sake pairings run approximately 100 to 130 Euros respectively.

Related Links:

• Le Telegraphe is another eatery worth checking out in the 7th
• Alexander Lobrano checks out Verjus and still loves it – the buttermilk fried chicken is “superb!”
• If you’re in the mood for non-frenchy fare, Blend is worth the trip for a great Paris burger

Written by Forrest Collins  for the HiP Paris Blog. All images courtesy of Le Clarisse . Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.