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The Other Side of Montmartre: Coffee, Food and Shopping Off the Beaten Path

HiP Paris Blog, Café Lomi, Montmartre Round Up

Café Lomi

Paris’ 18th arrondissement, to the north of the city, is a vast and varied area, encompassing some of the most affluent enclaves (right up at the top of the hill) and some of the shadiest (La Goutte d’Or), as well as one of the city’s most frequented tourist spots — Le Sacre Coeur and the surrounding streets and squares in Montmartre.

HiP Paris Blog, www.larallonge.fr, La Rallonge, Montmartre Round Up

La Rallonge

But slightly off the beaten track is the more unassuming part of this neighborhood: the residential area in the foothills of Montmartre, extending from the arrondissement’s town hall – where I happen to have lived for the best part of a decade – which is well worth the detour to discover the lesser known shops, restaurants and more that the guide-book clutching hoards are yet to discover.

HiP Paris Blog, Manufacture Parisienne, Kim Laidlaw, Montmartre Round Up 8

HiP Paris Blog, Manufacture Parisienne, Kim Laidlaw, Montmartre Round UpManufacture Parisienne (Kim Laidlaw)

Here is a selection of my favorite new and newish places that look set to make this part of the 18th a destination on any discerning visitor or local’s itinerary. Food in the area ranges from a quick bite and coffee right up to fine French dining. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Restaurant Reviews, Shopping | 6 Comments »

Teatime: The Best Places to Indulge in Tea (and Something Sweet) in Paris

HiP Paris Blog, Making Magique, Tea Salons in Paris

Making Magique

When the cold arrives in the City of Light there’s nothing better than cuddling up with a cup of hot tea and a few delicious pastries in the corner of a Parisian café.

HiP Paris Blog, Carin Olsson, Tea Salons in Paris, Rose Bakery Tea Room

Rose Bakery Tea Room (Carin Olsson)

After a summer of short summer dresses and light tank tops, it’s time to put on that knitted sweater, cozy scarf, and those leather boots… Which also means that a few extra pastries won’t really hurt that much…  Well, at least that’s what I keep telling myself (yes, that’s my theory and I’m sticking with it).

HiP Paris Blog, Toastwife, Tea Salons in Paris

Toastwife

After surviving cold autumn days and freezing winters in Paris before, I now know where to get my tea and pastry fix in this city. In a city like Paris the possibilities for indulgence are endless, so I’ve tried to narrow it down for you. Don’t forget to bundle up before heading out! Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Shopping | 18 Comments »

A Day in SOPI: Eating, Drinking & Shopping in Paris’ HiP South-of-Pigalle Area

HiP Paris SOPI Sebastien Gaudard4 Didier Gauducheau

For decades, Pigalle was known mainly for its sex shops, seedy shows and working girls. During WWII, this sketchy section of Paris earned the nickname “Pig Alley” thanks to its bawdy rep. But these days, Pigalle has earned a few new monikers as well as a cleaner reputation. Now, in NYC fashion, trendy locals refer to it as either NoPi (North of Pigalle) or SoPi (South of Pigalle).

HIP-Paris-SOPI-Rocketship2-Didier-Gauducheau

While both North and South have plenty to offer, it’s SoPi that’s become the latest neighborhood to watch.  Moving beyond nighttime entertainment, SoPi is packed with plenty of destination restaurants, food shops, cafes and enough to make an itinerary that runs from morning until nighttime.

HiP Paris SOPI Rocketship3 Didier Gauducheau

To get a day’s worth of enjoyment out of one the city’s hippest ‘hood, kick start things with some caffeine at Rocketship. Like many places in Paris, they don’t open until later in the morning, so make your way there leisurely. In keeping with the neighborhood’s NY-inspired nickname, this concept coffeeshop works a Brooklyn vibe and offers chai lattes alongside coffee from Coutume.

HiP Paris SOPI Rocketship1 Didier Gauducheau

After coffee, take time to browse the boutique. Benoit, the owner, prides himself on finding unique treasures and includes a good number of pieces from SoPi-based artisans.

Le Rocketship, 13 bis rue Henri Monnier, Paris, 75009, +33 1 48 78 23 66

Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews, Shopping | 13 Comments »

Food, Art & Film In the 19eme, Paris’ Latest “It” Neighborhood

HiP Paris Blog, Didier Gauducheau, La Cantine Vagabonde 2Cantine Vagabonde (Didier Gauducheau)

It’s no secret that some of the most interesting things in a city happen off the tourist grid. New restaurants, music and, of course, lots of art gets made in places where the rents are cheaper, the residents funkier and the tourists far fewer. Paris is no exception. Such is true of the area in north eastern Paris in and around the 19eme. Thanks to some major cultural attractions and a smattering of fun eateries, it just may be on the brink of its moment.

HiP Paris Blog, Didier Gauducheau, La Cantine Vagabonde 4Cantine Vagabonde (Didier Gauducheau)

Setting off from Metro Stalingrad one recent afternoon, I discovered a quartier in exciting transition. Where its once dilapidated streets were lined with international call centers and cut rate shops, a new energy is palpable in a smattering of neighborhood boutiques, vegetarian eateries and performing arts centers.

HiP Paris Paige Frost Le Louxor Erin DahlLe Louxor (Erin Dahl)

Here are the highlights.

Le Centquatre. In 2008 the Marie de Paris unveiled Le104 (Le Centquatre), a performing and visual arts center that serves as the creative hub of the area. It’s a vast and luminous space that features rotating exhibitions and installations from this summer’s epic Keith Haring retrospective to “interactive” work that quite literally invites audiences to experience art first-hand. Continue Reading »

Posted in Arts, Events, Food, Restaurant Reviews | 4 Comments »

High-End Takeout: Verjus & Frenchie Do Gourmet Sandwiches To-Go in Paris

Frenchie To Go

It’s 1pm, and your stomach is growling. For many in Paris, that means a stop by the closest boulangerie for a classic sandwich au jambon fromage. But for those of us who want a little more oomph between the slices, two of our favorite resto/bar à vin combos have opened up lunch operations as well.

Frenchie To Go

It’s no secret that we at HiP Paris are big fans of Verjus, Braden Perkins’ and Laura Adrian’s  triplex that sits kitty-corner to the Théâtre du Palais-Royal. So it should come as no surprise that when I heard that they would be opening for lunch with a menu of creative sandwiches based on cult classics from the US, I went running.

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Verjus Sandwiches & Frenchie To Go

Verjus Wine Bar

The menu features three sandwiches (as well as an off-menu vegetarian option), all of which are served with a daily choice of classic lunchbox desserts such as snickerdoodles, chocolate chip cookies, or caramel brownies, plus a non-alcoholic drink, for €15. There is also an option to supplement wine or beer for an extra €3, for those of us who moved to France for the option to have wine at lunch. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 9 Comments »

Paris’ Freshest Culinary Trend: Seafood & Cocktails

HiP Paris Blog, The Fish Club, Seafood and Cocktails

The Fish Club

Beef bourguignon. Escargot. Bordeaux. Burgundy. France’s gastronomic culture stems from strong tradition. The French meal has even earned a place on UNESCO’s cultural heritage list.  And while there’s nothing like a great classic, sometimes you just want to shake things up.

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Seafood and Cocktails

Le Mary Céleste (Diane Yoon)

Fortunately, a formidable group of young food and drink folks have picked up on international culinary trends to create some new and vibrant options for Paris’ drinks and dining scene. The summer’s buzziest trend? Fresh fish with a South-American twist.

HiP Paris Blog, The Fish Club, Seafood and Cocktails

The Fish Club

Just in time for Paris’ warmer summer months, these new hotspots are offering weather-appropriate fare like ceviche and lighter cocktails to go with the hot sunny days. Move over, tired old moules frites!  There’s a new style of seafood in town and it’s being paired with some mighty fine drinks. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Parisian Living | 2 Comments »

In the Kitchen: Chef Haan Palcu-Chang of Le Mary Celeste

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Le Mary Celeste

“My food is 100% driven on being delicious.” That’s Chef Haan Palcu-Chang’s philosophy on cooking, and it’s clear from tasting the menu at Le Mary Celeste that this drive is bringing fresh new flavors to Paris that are hitting the spot for those who are looking for something a little different.

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste, the nautically-themed bar and restaurant brought to you by the same folks as local taco-and-speakeasy favorite Candelaria and Pigalle gem Glass, sports a solid cocktail and beer menu, as one would expect.

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Le Mary Celeste

What’s unexpected is the ever-changing menu of small plates coming from the kitchen, all of which have a slight Asian influence, often mixing in with what might be considered very traditional European dishes, such as a tartare de veau that’s dressed in a chili-mayonnaise and scattered with sesame seeds and scallions. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Restaurant Reviews | 1 Comment »

Behind Verjus: Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian Bring Farm-to-Table to Paris

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Braden Perkins Interview

By now, everyone’s heard of Verjus and its precipitous rise into the hearts of the food-obsessed expat community in Paris from its humble beginnings as the private supper club, Hidden Kitchen.

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Braden Perkins Interview

Having recently renovated the third floor of their triplex building into a private dining room for private parties of twelve to fourteen, and also having started a new lunch service, serving sandwiches to the ravenous masses, I wondered what was next for Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, the team behind the venture. I sat down on a chilly Friday afternoon for a chat with Braden about their motivations in opening what Alex Lobrano called “the first real modern American restaurant in Paris.”

HiP Paris Blog, Diane Yoon, Braden Perkins Interview

Braden and Laura landed in Paris, like many of us do, while taking a year abroad figuring out the next step in their careers. The intention was only to stay for a year or so. “So we’re here in Paris, and eating, and drinking, and traveling, but not meeting anybody. So we thought, let’s do a supper club once a month and just invite some people. And it worked exactly how we wanted it to work – we met tons and tons of expats, tons of bloggers, tons of cool people, and it was fun.” Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Restaurant Reviews | 14 Comments »

Cafe Pinson: Delicious Vegetarian Dining in Paris’ Northern Marais

Cafe Pinson (Diane Yoon)

Tucked away on a tiny side street near Square Temple, across the street from hipster hangout Nanashi and bobo haven The Broken Arm, Café Pinson is serving up quality coffee and healthy eats to expats and natives alike.

Cafe Pinson (Diane Yoon)

Eschewing the grungy chipped paint aesthetic of so many new openings in the city, the bright, welcoming space features classic details like white-paneled walls, wicker chairs, and geometric-patterned tables. It’s the kind of place that invites any and all to come in and get cozy – I would feel comfortable cuddling down into one of their sunken chairs with an engrossing book and tea and pastry for a couple of hours, just as I would be happy meeting a big group of friends for a quick catch-up session or hunkering down with my laptop for a good old-fashioned work crunch. The honest-to-goodness friendly staff was all smiles as I took up a precious corner table for hours and hours one busy Friday afternoon. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 7 Comments »

Paris Pastry Smackdown: Eclair de Genie vs. Atelier de L’Eclair

After macarons, cupcakes, and cream puffs, the classic eclair is now enjoying a serious revival in Paris. Here to test the trend, Carin gathered a few knowledgeable sweet freaks to test the goods from Paris’ most notable new eclair shops, l’Eclair de Genie and l’Atelier de l’Eclair. -Geneviève

HiP Paris Blog, Carin Olsson, Éclairs

Éclairs from L’Éclair de Génie

If you ask people about pastries that remind them of Paris, one that first comes to mind is the classic éclair. A pastry made with pâte à choux, a fluffy cream filling and mouth-watering icing on top — mmmm!

HiP Paris Blog, Carin Olsson, Éclairs

Éclairs from L’Éclair de Génie

Many of us forgot about this delicious little pastry when adorable macarons and elaborate American cupcakes took the Parisian dessert spotlight over the past couple of years. Thanks to inventive pastry chefs (and probably a general fatigue with everything bite-size), two new Parisian pastry shops, L’Eclair de Genie and L’Atelier de l’Eclair, have put the éclair back on the dessert tray.

HiP Paris Blog, Carin Olsson, Éclairs

I have to admit: I haven’t always been a huge fan of the éclair myself. It wasn’t until I stepped inside the newly opened L’Éclair de Génie in the Marais, that I realized I might need to revise my position: seeing miniature éclairs all lined up in different colors and variations made my heart skip a beat. After my first bite of a noisette/praliné éclair, I was sold. I’m now an unabashed éclair convert (under the right circumstances, of course). So when the HiP Paris blog asked me to spend an afternoon exploring new variations on this classic pastry, I jumped at the chance! Continue Reading »

Posted in Food | 17 Comments »