Street art Paris - Annewil Stroo

La Bouffe

May 4 & 12: Veillées Foodstock 2012 includes two nights of all things we love: art, poetry, music, whiskey and ice cream. It may be a bit of a trip (held at the Contemporary Art Museum in Vitry-sur-Seine) but with those offerings plus the backing of Le Fooding, how could you say no? 

Now Open: Yannick Alleno of Le Meurice has opened Terroir Parisien, which boasts dishes made from ingredients from Ile de France.  An additional perk? It’s open every day, so feel free to pop in for Sunday dinner. Terroir Parisien, 24, rue rue St-Victor, 5e, 01.44.31.54.54

Now Open: Restaurateurs Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré continue to expand with their new resto Semilla, offering fresh and contemporary French dishes from an open kitchen. Note: these are the guys behind Cosi, Fish and La Dernière Goutte. Semilla, 54 rue de Seine, 6e, 01.43.54.34.50

© Antanas Sutkus

L’Art

May 19: The 8th annual Nuit Européenne des Musées – or European Museums Night – boasts more than 160 events in museums big and small, and many have free entry. You can view a list of all participating museums and their offerings here.

Through May 19: The current exhibition at the Russian Tea Room Gallery is Amours Libres, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier/Antanas Sutkus. Sutkus is a Lithuanian photographer who shot moving black and white images of the impoverished people of his country, while Charbonnier focused on everyday moments of Parisian life. 

Through June 15: On view at Fondation Dina-Vierny – Musée Maillol: Artemisia – Pouvoir, Gloire et Passions d’une femme peintre. A feminist rule-breaker in 17^th century Italy, this daughter of famed painter Orazio Gentileschi harnessed her creative drive and has since been considered one of the best painters of her time.

Robert Crumb

Through August: If you’ll be in Paris with your little ones, be sure to see the Babar exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs. The show details the multiple creators of the world’s favorite pachyderm and includes games, drawings and a series of 3D animations sure to entertain.

Through June 23: The Maison de la Culture du Japon à Paris celebrates its 15^th anniversary with the exhibition Humour, parodie et vidéos: Créations vidéo du Japon contemporain. Images and video all centered around the theme of “laughter,” this show can’t help but put you in a good mood. 

Through August 19: The Musée d’Art Moderne is currently showing Crumb: De l’Underground à la Genèse. This show is the first French retrospective of famed American cartoonist Robert Crumb.  R. Crumb is known for his satirical portrayal of American life, but this exhibition spans his work from early underground drawings to the publication of his graphic novel The Book of Genesis.

Foster the People

La Musique

May 4: Paris Classik, a classical orchestra, will be performing at the Eglise Saint Germain des Prés, the oldest church in Paris. The combination of the popular instrumentals and the historical significance of the location make this an event not to miss.

May 4-5: Indie darlings Foster the People perform at Le Bataclan this weekend. The trio’s feel-good indie pop-rock is sure to put a smile on any sour Parisian face.

May 9: Coeur de Pirate, led by Québécoise singer-songwriter Béatrice Martin, will perform at at Zénith de Paris. The group has had great success beyond Canada, getting recognition on Good Morning America and being nominated for Juno Award’s Francophone Album of the Year.

Charlotte Gainsbourg (Nederlands UITburo)

May 12-13: Radio France’s Des week-ends de musique presents Paris-Japon, a representation of the Eastern music that has long influenced that of the west. The weekend is comprised of five concerts covering works from ten Japanese composers.

May 20-June 3: The Saint Germain-des-Pres Jazz Festival is a dream for any syncopation-loving listener. It brings jazz musicians from around the globe together for numerous concerts at Paris’s best venues.  And what better appropriate neighborhood to host it?

May 21: French sweetheart and singer-actress Charlotte Gainsbourg will perform at La Cigalle. Though Charlotte comes from a musically-endowed family, her albums certainly have their own merit – a winning combo.

May 29: British award winner Elvis Costello will perform with The Imposters at L’Olympia. Costello has won a Grammy, is a member of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and is a veteran on the music scene.

Les Puces du Design (Zemoko)

Misc

May 10: For a vintage focused shopping event, head to the 26^th Puces du Design at Bercy Village. Over 100 antique dealers specializing in fashion and art from the 1950s-80s will be present for your browsing pleasure.

May 11-14: Les Portes Ouvertes: The artists of Belleville open the doors to their ateliers and give the curious a unique opportunity to explore their creative spaces. There is also official programming throughout the weekend including concerts, performances and more.  

May 13: Entry to the Children’s Festival at the Jacquemart-Andre Museum is free  to anyone under 17 years old, making this the perfect time to explore the museum’s permanent collections, take in the Pharaoh exhibition and participate in creative workshops throughout the day. Don’t miss the chocolate fountain and a collective balloon release in the evening!

May 27-June 10: If you’ll be in Paris at the end of the month, hurry and get your tickets to the French Open, the mythical tennis event that is over a century old.

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

La Bouffe:

Ongoing: Cédric Casanova, the Italian genius behind ‘La Tete dans les Olives’ strikes again with his just-opened épicerie, Au Conservatoire. Book the shop’s only table for yourself and seven of your closest friends for Cédric’s “Pique-niques Gastronomiques”, a tasty selection of Sicilian small plates with a little specialty shopping on the side. Au Conservatoire, 14 rue Sainte Marthe, 75 010, Paris. To make reservations, email: picnic@latetedanslesolives.com

Ongoing: An elusive new stranger has appeared on the Paris bar scene: L’Inconnu. Hip coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night, and for those in it for the long haul, a DJ dance party that goes until 2am. Pop in for afternoon coffee and you might just find yourself dancing the night away. 17-19 rue de Mazagran, 75010, Paris.

April 7: In case you need another excuse to drink delicious French wines, here you have it: Caves Augé, one of the oldest stores in Paris, is hosting a free tasting of wines from the Rhone Valley. À votre santé! Caves Augé, 116 Blvd Haussmann, 75008, Paris.

BBrown6

April 12: Relive George Lucas’ cult classic “American Graffiti” with burgers, hotdogs and more: Street Food Party’s first event of the season revisits classics with a fresh, French twist. Expect girls on roller-skates, live music and gastro-rock interpretations of classic American drive-in fare. At La Rotonde, 6-8 Pl. de la Bataille Stalingrad, 75019, Paris. Starts at 8pm.

April 7-8: You know all about this super-cool fun-for-all weekend of brunch and more, but it’s too good to not mention again. Brunch Bazar is back. 66 rue de Turenne, 75003, Paris.

Fred Jagueneau, Kerndwa1, 2003

Les Arts

April 25-May 15: Be sure to check out the Polaroids of globetrotting, fashion-loving photographer Fred Jagueneau in “Dreaming of Zerzura,” curated by Nan Goldin herself. 9 place des Vosges, 75004, Paris

April 12: The Palais de Tokyo has been closed for four months of renovations, but the new and improved space is finally reopening in April. You can catch a behind-the-scenes preview of the exciting changes to the center during its opening party, featuring 30 full hours of programming including performances and concerts. The Palais de Tokyo will officially reopen to the public on April 19^th. 13 Ave du Président Wilson, 75013, Paris.

April 13-15: Tap into your inner child at France Distraction, an interactive installation filled with inflatable structures and ball pits that press visitors to question the absurdity in corporate procedures and everyday “adult life.” 5 rue Curial, 75019, Paris.

Highlight Park, Julien Colomber, Galerie Metropolis

Through April 14: Julien Colombier turns every day objects into canvases for his psychedelic landscapes. Highlight Park, a custom-built a half-pipe designed to fit the gallery space perfectly, features a forest scene strangely reminiscent of one of our favorite children’s books… 16 rue de Montmorency, 75003, Paris.

Through May 5: Peter Brook returns to the famed Bouffes du Nord theater for a production of “The Suit.” South African author Can Themba wrote the piece as a short story and had the ill fortune of passing before it could be turned into a play. The story is one of a slow and painful revenge, but the production is sure to please. 37 bis Boulevard de la Chapelle, 75010, Paris.

Through June 17: The Grand Palais is hosting the first French retrospective of iconic fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Designed by his wife, June, the show includes more than 200 photographs that are sure to shock, impress and inspire. 3 Avenue du Général Eisenhower, 75008, Paris.

Wonder Vintage Market

Le Shopping:

April 14: Scouring vintage shops is often one of the greatest ways to find unique pieces, but picking through the junk to find the gems can be a downer. Fortunately, Wonder Vintage Market has brought together only the best for a one-day shopping event at Bastille Design Center. 74 Blvd Richard-Lenoir, 75011, Paris.

April 27-May 8: If you’ll be in Paris with young ones, take a family trip to the Foire de Paris. This 100+ year-old exhibition boasts artists and craftsmen from around the globe. 1 Place Porte de Versailles, 75015, Paris.

Slightly Winded

La Musique:

April 5: German duo and music festival frequenters Digitalism are seasoned players in the world of electronic music. Raised on Berlin’s Love Parade and the like, the pair is dedicated to successfully marrying rock and electro. To catch the group in action, put your dancing shoes on and head to their show at La Gaîté Lyrique. 3 bis rue Papin, 75003, Paris.

April 12: Aaron Parks, an inventive jazz pianist who has the ability to paint smooth and colorful scenes with his notes, plays at the famous Duc des Lombards. 42 rue des Lombards, 75001, Paris.

April 19: For some classic French chanson with an edgy twist, be sure to catch the Carmen Maria Vega show at La Maroquinerie. A Guatemalan by birth, Carmen’s music and style are irreverent yet likeable. 23 rue Boyer, 75020, Paris.

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

VuTheara Kham

La fête

March 10-11: Colette Carnival in the Tuilleries: Bon anniv’ to one of our favorite concept stores! Colette will be celebrating its 15^th bday with a fab – and free – carnival in the Tuileries.

La bouffe

March 17-18: A Brunch Bazar weekend has to be the best one of the month. Two nine-hour days filled with little bits of the things we love: food, music, workshops and even a funhouse for the little ones.

March 11-13: After a long stint in Deauville, the Omnivore Food Festival heads to Paris. In case plentiful tastings from some of France’s greatest chefs isn’t enticing enough, the alcohol and tunes that are sure to be in abundance make this a must-do.

La musique

March 8: Phenomenal Handclap Band at Nouveau Casino:  PHB’s feel-good fusion tracks hit Paris and are not to be missed.  If some old-school soul meets disco is what you crave, get to Nouveau Casino on Thursday night.

March 11: Super Sunday with Patrice is a mixed-medium event inspired by music, dance, graffiti and gastronomy. Enjoy some indie artwork and a delicious menu by Nelson Muller before jamming out to Afro-German Reggae artist, Patrice. Take a peek at the menu here.

March 20-April 1: Les Femmes S’en Mêlent, a cross-Europe indie music festival celebrating female music-makers comes to Paris. Check out the lineup here.

Les arts

March 7-August 5: The magical Tim Burton Exhibition at Cinémathèque Française opens today. Following a wildly successful showing at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, the fantastical works of Mr. Burton made it overseas. This show is a true pleasure and treat for the imagination of adults and children alike.

Through March 18: Experiencing the works of a creative mastermind is always a pleasure, isn’t it? The Jean-Paul Goude exhibit at Les Arts Décoratifs is the designer/illustrator/photographer ‘s first retrospective, so it’s only appropriate that happening in Paris.

March 9-16: Louis Vuitton  – Marc Jacobs at Les Arts Décoratifs: Goude, Vuitton and Jacobs in the same location? That’s almost more genius than we can handle – but not quite. Once you’ve digested the former, be sure to check out the latter. The designers’ fabulous pieces are only on view for one week. In the mood for a teaser? Check out this video.

March 30-April 1: With 101 film screenings, the ECU film festival has something for every type of cinephile. Purchase tickets in advance by visiting this site.

Through April 28: Iconic photographer Robert Doisneau’s snapshots of ordinary Parisian life portrayed the popular Les Halles area like none other. Feel the energy of this bustling 1930s locale at this exhibit dedicated to his explorations of the “stomach of Paris” taking place at the Hotel de Ville.

Through July 15: The just-opened Bob Dylan Exhibition at Cité de la Musique: this venue continues its streak of successful musician-inspired exhibits with America’s folk hero. This show will focus on what many consider to be Dylan’s greatest days, the early and mid 1960s.

Misc

Ongoing: Workshops and classes on CreativeParis.info: this wonderful new site challenges Paris visitors to go out and experience the city like a local. They have classes and workshops in everything from origami to perfume making, so you’re sure to find something that tickles your fancy.

Related Links:

• Also worth checking out this month is the Matisse exhibit at the Pompidou center
• Check out Paris’ first food truck, le Camion qui Fume, at the Colette Carnival this weekend
• The Paris Cookbook fair is also happening this weekend at the 104

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When early March hits, something in the air changes. Models come out of the woodwork and women in New York, London, Paris and elsewhere put a bit more effort into their attire. If you’re not in the fashion industry, it’s easy to be bewildered by the overnight switch from simple booties to stilettos. Fashion week is both daunting and exciting; add a locale like Paris to the mix and both sensations are heightened. Fear not, mes amis – dressing like a chic insider for Paris Fashion Week is possible.

Think of this week as an opportunity. March also (hopefully) marks the end of winter, a season when dreary days have the masses stuck in a style rut. Fashion choices are understandably made based on the practicality of pieces rather than how they actually look. After all, freezing temperatures make it near impossible to trade your puffy coat (the one that doubles as a sleeping bag) in for a cropped leather jacket, right?

Comings and goings in the Tuileries, Paris Fashion Week 2012 (Boswell)

Now that the weather’s turning around, ditch the bulk and grab your most daring pieces. Remember that quirky vintage hat you just had to have? Here’s your chance to wear it and not hear “mon dieu” whispered more times than you can count. Or those wonderfully whimsical printed tights that you feel just a little bit funny wearing around on any old day? Pull ‘em up. Parisians embrace Fashion Week, but that’s not to say you’ll get away with what you could in, say, New York. Here are a few guidelines to aid in your PFW sartorial adventures:

1. Add color. If you’ve been sticking to a black and neutral wardrobe, add a bright accent. It will give your everyday outfits a little extra pop, and you get to keep the sophisticated sleekness of the “Parisian uniform.”

Boswell; Ludo29880

2. Get a great coat. Winter Fashion Week is simpler than fall in some ways. While it’s chillier, and the blustery, rainy gusts sometimes make it tough to stay freshly primped, you can focus on one piece: the coat. Unless you’re lucky enough to score a ticket to a show, most people will only see your outerwear. Leave the trench at home and go for something with a fun, unique silhouette.

3. Shop the vintage stores. Fashion industry elites are clad in head-to-toe designer garb, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend a fortune to look Fashion Week ready. Wander through le Marais and pop in stores like Coiffeur Vintage, Free ‘P’ Star and Come On Eileen. You’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces that will truly stand out (and won’t break the bank).

Posing in the Tuileries, February 29 2012 (Boswell)

4. Stroll through les Tuileries. I’ve happened upon some fabulous characters while walking through the Tuileries during Fashion Week. A handful of shows are held there and if your timing and outfit are right, you might just attract the attention of the photogs.

5. Be confident. You’ve heard it before, but it’s so important that it bears repeating – you can be wearing a gorgeous ensemble, but if you’re not comfortable in it, it will show. Be adventurous and love what you’ve got on – you’ll find that others will follow.

More Tuileries snaps, February 29, 2012 (Boswell)

And if you want more tips, be sure to pick up French Vogue correspondent Carole Sabas’s book, The Paris of Fashion Insiders, which include insider tips for surviving la semaine.  An extra perk: a portion of the proceeds go to the It Gets Better Project.

Related Links:

• For the latest street-style shots from Paris Fashion week, check out Marie Claire’s coverage
• For show coverage, Vogue has the latest updates from the runway
• If Fashion Week isn’t your thing, The Moment has a list of great (non-fashion oriented) list of things happening in Paris over the next few days

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Photos taken by Boswell, a dynamic, Detroit-based fashion photographer who works in Paris several times a year. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Here at HiP, we’re always up for a good expat adventure tale, particularly one in which desserts play a starring role. In her new book, Paris, My Sweet, food writer (and regular HiP Paris contributor!) Amy Thomas regales us with stories from her two-year stint in Paris, where she wrote advertising copy for Louis Vuitton by day and scoured the city for sweets in her spare time.

All in all, it sounds like a pretty ideal existence, but like all expats in Paris, Amy faced a typical series of ups and downs. It’s no surprise that she fell hard for the city upon arrival; and it’s also no surprise that, once the initial Parisian shine wore off, Amy ultimately came to see the city’s not-quite-so-sweet side. It’s at this point that the story really starts to ring true for those of us who have been expats in Paris: you’re simultaneously charmed and alienated, comforted and challenged, energized and exhausted.

Paris, My Sweet; Takashi

As Amy weathered the highs and lows of expat life, she also covered serious ground in the dessert department, hitting all of Paris’ confectionary hotspots and sampling the city’s most decadent delights. This book is not only an account of her time in Paris, but also a goldmine of bonnes addresses (in both Paris and New York) for dessert lovers. This woman knows her way around a pâtisserie, and serious sugar-high seekers would do well to heed Amy’s recommendations.

Paris, My Sweet is a guidebook of sorts, but it’s also just a fun and decadent read—I devoured it in less than 48 hours, pausing only to scrounge up some chocolate now and again. In addition to making me hungry, Amy’s writing transported me back to Paris, a trip I am ever-eager to make, if only vicariously.

Evocateur

Below, I caught up with the author to talk Paris, pastries, and ultimately picking her favorite city.

You’re a dessert fiend, so tell us—what’s the main difference between American sweets and the Parisian variety?

American baking is a lot more creative and crazy, but at the same time, it’s a lot simpler. As amazing as everything was in Paris, it was so decadent. I definitely missed the American classics, like cookies and brownies, while I was there.

In your book, you recount dozens of sweet experiences in Paris. But if you had to recommend just one sugar-centric destination, what would it be?

It’s so subjective, but I would probably say Stohrer on Rue Montorgueil. It was my neighborhood bakery, but it’s also a beautiful, historic bakery. You can find anything you want there: chocolate, viennoiseries, cakes, tarts, savory stuff.  Everything they do is amazing.

Waitscm; H3_six

And aside from the desserts, what do you miss most about Paris now that you’re back in New York?

Definitely the Vélibs. When I go back to Paris to visit, that’s one of the things that makes me feel so alive—biking around the city. It’s just so fun. And I miss those days when you just start walking, and you walk all day because it’s so pretty and enchanting. You just want to keep going and soaking it up.

Your book details the culture shock you experienced as you adjusted to Paris. Did you have reverse culture shock when you ultimately returned to New York?

The first six to eight months back in New York were hard, because everything felt very harsh here. Paris is a big city too, but things are slower and there’s an appreciation for some of the more indulgent things in life. So coming back to New York was like a slap in the face, but after a while, I felt totally happy—especially once the weather warmed up.

Simon Goldenberg

So now that you’ve had some time to compare and contrast, what’s the verdict—Paris or New York?

New York is definitely home. I’m happier and more at peace here, even though there are things about Paris that I miss deeply. I sometimes get teary thinking about Paris and what I had there. The great thing is, I now have this connection to Paris. It became part of me.

And what about your cat, who has now lived on both sides of the Atlantic. Which city does he prefer?

I adopted him in New York, so I think he’s happy here. But he had a pretty kick-ass setup in Paris—lots of space and a sunny window perch that overlooked the rooftops. I’m sure he misses that.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Related Links:

• Buy Amy Thomas’ book Paris, My Sweet on Amazon now!
• Paris Patisseries also has a great list of Paris’ 38 Best Pastries
• Check out Amy’s Paris blog here
• For tips on the best pastries to be found in Paris and New York, check out Amy’s Sweet Freak blog

Carams

La musique

February 23: Brooklyn rockers Real Estate, whose albums are consistently rated Best New Music by Pitchfork and the like, will perform at Nouveau Casino.

February 24: Pop-dance producers Simian Mobile Disco,  a British duo that broke off from previous band Simian, will perform a DJ set at La Machine du Moulin Rouge.

Dave Bloom

Les arts

Through February 19: Les Femmes savantes, a favorite amongst Molière’s work and a satirical criticism of the ridiculous préciosité that penetrated 18^th century French salons, is showing at the Théâtre de la Tempête.

Through February 19: Chic! Une grande maison at Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine – a look into the history of Paris architecture, specifically the lovely hôtels particuliers that dot the city. Child friendly.

Through March 15: You may know Maxim’s for its resto and boutique, but they also have an exhibition space and this month “Moi, Sarah Bernhardt” is on show. Bernhardt, often thought of as the world’s first and most famous actress, paved the way for female performers to come. Now you can take a peek into her life and passion.

Matt Mansfield

Through March 25: The Maison Européenne de la Photographie’s current special exhibition showcases Brazilian photography over the past 60 years, portraying the country’s consistent search for identity. Don’t forget to stroll through the permanent collections!

Through April 6: If you have an affinity for LatAm photography, be sure to check out FOTO/GRÁFICA at Le Bal as well, a survey of Latin American photography over the past century.

Jules Morgan

Misc.

Every Friday: La Dernière Goutte, an inviting cave in the 6^th, hosts Le Wine-Down, a free wine tasting with noshes from 5-7:30pm. What better way to end the week and rub elbows with locals?

Through February 14: Traveling to Paris with votre amour for la Saint Valentin? The city will be making personal love notes public for the day, so submit your sentiments to the Mairie de Paris by the 8^th to see them posted on signs all over Paris.

For more events in Paris in February, check out these links:

• Secrets of Paris
• Bonjour Paris
• Le Best of Paris

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When I popped home to the UK in November, London was already in full festive swing with Christmas trees, festive songs and neon lights galore. Sent back with a Cadbury’s chocolate advent calendar adorned with an oversized Santa, I was ready to start the Christmas season with a bang.

Making Magique

Yet once back home across the pond, I realized Paris hadn’t joined in on the fun yet. I was ready to start in on my advent calendar and temperatures were plunging, but where were all those tell tale signs that our favorite mid-winter festival was fast approaching?

This set me thinking. What exactly is a Parisian Christmas? What happens in the cold windy days leading up to the big event? I set out on a mission to discover the seasonal delights that France’s most romantic city had to offer.

Little Brown Pen

Shopping

Although the Christmas shopping frenzy begins relatively late in Paris (thankfully, shops only step into gear at the end of November), once it gets going, it really gets going. Stores go all out with light shows and designer-crafted window displays – always tasteful, bien sur. First stop? Paris’s iconic department stores. Whilst London has toy-filled Hamleys and elegant Harrods, Paris showcases its trademark sophistication with Les Galleries Lafayette and the neighbouring Printemps, where Karl Lagerfeld’s touch marks this year’s displays: think Chanel-clad rock ‘n’ roll dolls strumming their electric guitars and 20m Christmas trees.

Conclusion: a little slow off the starting blocks, but Paris comes through in true style.
Printemps: 64, bd Haussmann, metro Havre Chaumartin
Galleries Lafayette: 40, bd Haussmann, metro Chausee d’Antin – Fayette

Little Brown Pen

Markets
December in Paris wouldn’t be complete without a good dose of Christmas markets. The stalls clustered along the Champs Elysees are beautifully situated (one of the most luxurious streets in the world all lit up with golden lights – what more could you want!) with the roaring traffic detracting only a little from the romantic scene. I highly recommended warming up with some mulled wine, nibbling on roasted chestnuts (a French Christmas favorite) and finishing it all off with a chocolate dipped apple.

Conclusion: Christmas markets are a key Parisian Christmas ingredient. They may not be big or overly original, but they are brimming with seasonal good cheer (with a little help from the steaming vin chaud).
November 19 – January 2, 2012, Avenue des Champs-Elysées to the Place de la Concorde ( Metro Champs Elysées-Clemenceau or Concorde)
For a full list of Paris’ neighborhood Christmas Markets, click here

Carams

More Christmassy excitement

What else does Paris have store for Christmas-lovers? Having diligently wandered the streets, I’ve definitely had my festive fix for 2011.  My highlights include:

-    The illuminated Ferris Wheel at the Place de la Concorde
-    The elegant lights in the cobbled rue Montorgueil
-    The giant Christmas tree outside Notre Dame cathedral
-    The temporary ice skating at Hotel de Ville
Although Christmas cheer may hit the French capital a little late, Parisians certainly know how to do the festive run-up with taste. If we’ve missed anything, please drop us a comment with your favourite Paris Christmas moments below!
Wherever you are this Christmas, I wish you all a joyeux Noël!

Stop by the Corner

Related Links:

• The NY Times has some great tips on what to do in Paris on Christmas Day
• Here’s a funny post on the French love for fake Christmas trees… truly inexplicable. 
• Paris By Mouth has a great list of restaurant recommendations open for Christmas in Paris

Written by Victoria Wall for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

It’s 1905 in Paris. Visitors to the Salon d’Automne are outraged. Who is that flamboyant woman with the audaciously colorful hat? Or rather who could have painted such a daring work? Matisse’s Woman with a Hat shocked most viewers. However, it was avidly appreciated, and swiftly purchased, by two new art connoisseurs; Gertrude and Leo Stein, sparking a fabulous legacy of 20th century art patronage and perhaps the greatest collection of Modern art of the era. This collection is currently brought together for the first time in decades in Paris, in a special exhibit at the Grand Palais.

The Stein family, based in San Francisco, first came to Paris in 1878 when the siblings Gertrude, Leo and Michael were still children. This initial visit must have struck a cord, as they each eventually gravitated back to Europe as adults by 1904. Having sold off their family’s holdings back in the U.S., the Steins could live a comfortable bohemian life in Paris and were quickly drawn to collecting art.

The Grand Palais exhibit opens with some fine examples of their earliest acquisitions, several works by late impressionist masters, in particular Renoir and Cezanne, purchased during their first visit to the Salon d’Automne in 1904. These works would not only adorn the walls of the Steins’ respective apartments on rue Madame and rue Fleurus, they would also serve as inspiration for the next generation of young artists who started frequenting the Steins’ Saturday night Salons, lively evenings of conversation and debate over the ensuing new ideas of the modernist movement.

The next year’s Salon d’Automne also featured the more “traditional” artists, however, just as the impressionists had shocked the art world with their innovative works forty years prior, new artists such as the bold Fauves were causing a stir. While it was Gertrude and Leo who purchased Matisse’s aforementioned masterpiece, it was Michael and Sarah who became avid collectors and friends of the artist. Over the next few decades, they almost exclusively focused their collection on his works, many of which are shown here, several displaying the unique bond Matisse had with Michael and Sarah such as the two portraits he made of them and some paintings featuring their son Allan.

Matisse might have been one of the most important leading artists of the turn of the 20th century, however, he was fervently rivaled by another visionary artist; Pablo Picasso – who in turn was greatly supported by Gertrude and Leo. Gertrude first met Picasso in 1906 and they quickly formed a strong, if not turbulent, friendship. The exhibition features a number of wonderful Picassos from their collection, including the imposing Cezanne inspired pre-cubist portrait of Gertrude, but perhaps the most intriguing are eight original sketches and studies for Picasso’s first cubist work Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907), tightly displayed together on one wall, just as they might have been hung on the walls rue Fleurus.

Gertrude considered herself not merely as a patron of artists, but rather as their equal, a literary modernist, gaining inspiration for her writing from their new concepts on composition as she was developing into one of the most reputed American female writers. After WWI, Gertrude’s rue de Fleurus salon reflected her increasing interest in writing, as the artists started being replaced by the Lost Generation writers.

The end of the exhibit shows her appreciation for newer artists such as Juan Gris, then Francis Picabia and Balthus. This feels like a slightly weak closure to the amazing artistic odyssey of the Steins, who helped shape the direction of art history. Overall, the exhibit, is an exciting way to take an artistic trip back in time to one of the most creative moments in modern history … and then experience a little bit of bohemian Paris yourself, wandering the streets of the Left Bank or Montmartre in the footsteps of the Steins, Picasso, Matisse and Hemmingway.

Context Travel is arranging small group and private visits of the exhibit led by modern art historians. For more information and dates click here.

Written by Lily Heise from Context Travel for the HiP Paris Blog. All images courtesy of the Grand Palais. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out our website Haven in Paris.

The possibilities for private dining experiences in Paris continue to expand with yet another new addition: New Friends Table. This ‘secret eating and meeting club’ appeared on the scene last spring thanks to a multi-national group of friendly and fun, food-minded locals.  With my penchant for new and unusual eating experiences, I requested a booking as soon as it popped up on my radar.

Cozy ambiance at the New Friends Table

To secure an invitation, you introduce yourself by email with some basic background information such as food preferences, interests and what languages you speak.  While some might consider the necessity of introducing themselves a nuisance, it’s completely in line with the principles of this club.  New Friends Table is about more than just putting something tasty in your belly. It’s about conversation, interaction, getting to know your fellow diners, and hopefully even fostering new friendships.

Homemade parmesan chips and cocktails - Forest Collins

Dinner locations rotate and each meal varies depending on what’s fresh, who’s coming and who’s cooking.  On this visit, I was welcomed into a cozy loft decorated with fun brocante curios by our hostess for the evening, a friendly Englishwoman.  Our group was a mix of Americans, French, English and Italians, with an even split of locals and visitors.  We settled into sofas and chairs and started to get to know each other over an apero of negroni sbagliato (Campari, martini rosso and cremante d’alsace)  accompanied by homemade Parmesan biscuits edged with poppy seeds.

The Beautifully set New Friends Table

After cocktail hour, we were invited to move to an exquisitely set table where we were seated apart from those we came with to encourage us to chat with our ‘new friends’ for the night. Our group of eight (nine when our hostess had a moment to join us) was large enough to allow for intimate, one-on-one conversations, but still small enough for group table talk as well.  To my left I was entertained by a friendly traveling American – who occasionally broke off to translate for two of the Italian guests – and to my right I was charmed by a delightful Englishman.

Stuffed mini-pumpkins at Erica’s new Friends dinner

The meal began with an amuse bouche of lamb kidneys braised in sweet Madeira celery leaves, quail eggs and a warning from our hostess that this would be the last “small” dish we’d see for the night. Keeping with the convivial spirit of the dinner, the next courses were served family style.  First was the salad of rocket, fleshy figs, fresh Ewe’s milk ricotta and ‘wet’ walnuts served with a Medoc wine.

The next course shook things up a bit with a smoked mackerel paté alongside an orange and grapefruit salad paired. The dish was paired with a somewhat sweet Gewurzttramminer, and I admit to being surprised at the switch from red to this particular white, but the resulting flavor combination was impressive. Back again to red wine, the meat-and-veg girl in me devoured the next course of polpette (veal and pork meatballs) and stewed fresh cannelini with tomato and basil.

New Friends Table and new friends at the table

Always my favorite course, the cheese plate did not disappoint with a nice hunk of comte and charouse fermier served up with a 2009 Brouilly. I generally pass up the sweets for savory, but my curiosity was piqued by warm pitchers of sauce, freshly whipped English jersey cream and cake that appeared on the table as I was greedily taking one more ‘tiny’ cheese slice. I had never had sticky toffee pudding before.  Why had I never had sticky toffee pudding before? I have no idea. It was a blissful experience that made me regret missing out on this treat for so many years.

Interesting people and conversation at the New Friends Table

After I inhaled my substantial portion of sticky toffee pudding (ceremoniously leaving one little bite untouched so as not to appear a glutton – which my dinner date then happily finished off for me), tea and coffee were served with silky, dark truffles laced with Campari and lime. The wink to our aperitif cocktail brought our meal full circle, a gesture meant to echo the meal’s seasonal symbolism: we enjoyed the last of summer’s bounty while welcoming fall’s new offerings.

As much as I enjoyed the meal, the biggest draw for me was meeting new and interesting people, and I fully expect to spend a bit of time in the future with some new friends I made that evening. During the meal I even got word of an entirely different private dining experience in Paris, but I’ve promised to keep mum on that one for the moment. In the meantime, solo diners, curious gourmets and open-minded folks seeking new food fun in Paris, with a healthy dose of socializing on the side, should seek out this Table for tasty family style meals.

Forest Collins

New Friends Table; suggested donation: approximately 50 Euros (prices may vary depending on meal)

Related Links:

• Prefer a quick bite to a complicated meal? This Paris butcher is serving house-made meals up on his butcher counter
• For a comprehensive list of Paris’ best private dining options, check out Bryan’s article on HiP Paris here
• If you’re confused by the dining options in Paris, check out this comprehensive guide from Parisien Salon

Written by Forest Collins for the Hip Paris Blog. All photos by Erica Berman unless noted. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Nessa B.

Cupcakes have slowly been invading Paris since 2008. By the time French frozen food chain (and Parisian institution) Picard started carrying them, it was pretty obvious that these trendy cakes were on the French foodie scene for good.  They are part of the same cross-cultural exchange that has resulted in the opening of legendary macaron-maker, Ladurée, in New York.

As with most things that cross the Atlantic, certain aspects of the cupcake Carrie Bradshaw enjoyed outside of Manhattan’s famed Magnolia Bakery were lost in translation…

Alisa Morov, Sensational Cupcakes; Island Girl 4 Ever

1.  French cupcakes are often served with a small fork or spoon.  Why?  Half the fun is taking a big bite and licking the icing off your fingers like you did when you were seven.  Maybe the French fancy themselves too refined to sport the inevitable icing lip-glaze, or maybe they just really like silverware.

2.  French cupcakes often have a coeur, a filling of sorts, often jam-based, that likes to escape out of the bottom as if your cupcake had a trap door.  American cupcakes, devoid of this sophisticated yet messy upgrade, must be therefore be more superficial and less spiritually concerned with what’s on the inside.

Pumpkin cupcakes (Honey & Jam)

3.  French cupcakes come in a bouquet of flavors, including rose, jasmine, poppy, and violet.  The French excel at perfecting floral flavors instead of interpreting American classics, like peanut butter and carrot cake. Maybe it’s because even the French have to admit they won’t beat out an American red velvet… Although I’m intrigued by flower flavors and love to indulge in a Rose macaron once in a while, I have to admit I find them better suited to soaps and air fresheners.

4.  American cupcakes evoke childhood memories and grade school birthday parties (or a certain popular, NY based TV show). Their French counterparts, with their obscure flavors and elaborate designs, evoke exotic sophistication. Unless you grew up scooping birthday cake with a silver spoon, we warn you: it’s not the same thing.

Alisa Morov

5.  American cupcakes are usually less kitsch than the Smurff or teddy bear-topped creations you’ll see in Parisian bakeries like Berko. Magnolia in New York does color a lot more frosting than its Parisian counterparts, but French bakers make up for it by going to town on sugar decorations, dried fruits, glitter, and all other sorts of seemingly non-edible decorations.

6.  Most notably, French cupcakes don’t have the overly sugary sweet icing that Americans love (and their dentists hate).  French cupcakes are more focused on meringue or cream cheese icings, and frostings that don’t call for pounds of butter and sugar (blasphemy, we know.) With over 350 cheeses to choose from, it’s easy to imagine resourceful Frenchies would think up a few of them to pair with a chocolate cupcake or two.

Nessa B.

Looking to see them battle it out for a good cause? And no, we don’t mean just your taste buds. At Paris’ second annual Cupcake Camp, October 2 2011, American and French bakers meet up to share their creations and to raise money for the Make a Wish Foundation. Of course, cupcakes are available for viewing, tasting and judging. The HiP Paris blog is also an official sponsor. For more information, visit their website here. You can also order VIP passes via Colunching here.

Related Links:

• For more details on the event, check out the Paris Cupcake Camp website
• For American-style baked treats in Paris, check out Sweet Pea Baking
• American made to order cupcakes in Paris with Sugar Daze
• David Lebovitz claims credit for the cupcake craze
• For pics from last year’s event, check out Lost in Cheeseland’s flickr album

Written by Bryan Pirolli for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.