It was exactly my fourth post ever…  Those who had been following my blog right from the very first day (if I did have any followers to speak of then) saw a shy Argentinean blogger producing some mauve macarons, photographed in a ring box.

The photo was picked up by Foodgawker and before I had even really understood what blogging was about, the world was looking at my blog: Singapore, Alaska, Arkansas, Russia… One thousand clicks in two hours. That was back in 2009. You can still find the recipe here, and in Audrey Hepburn’s company here.

Savory macarons are not my invention. In fact, the “father” of modern macarons, Pierre Hermé, started playing with the idea of giving traditional sweet macarons a savory twist long ago.

One day, I thought of making something elegant… Something with salmon, and something black… Yes, black macarons!

I went to G. DeTout to buy black food coloring. Back home, I started adding tiny quantities of this coloring to my Italian meringue, and it started turning…mauve. Mauve? Another half coffee spoon… deeper mauve! I paused and wondered: should I continue adding color, or stop here? I hate it when macarons dye my tongue! And this shade of mauve was so beautiful… And it matched my poppy seeds perfectly! Yes, the match was sealed.

Today, my mauve salmon macarons have become a trademark of my Menu Malbec catering service. After all this time, I decided a new photo shoot was in order. After all, two years of blogging had improved my photography skills.

I have to admit that sometimes people look at me with a skeptical eye: “Salmon in a sweet macaron? Is the crust savory at least?” Until the first bite, when all doubts vanish!

The savory macarons are here to stay… Not only with salmon, but with foie gras now as well…who could think of something more appropriate for holiday parties? Chicissime!

Basic Macaron Recipe (depending on size, you will get approx. 60 shells = 30 macarons)

almond flour, 190 gr
icing  sugar, 190 gr
egg whites, 70 gr

For the syrup:
granulated sugar, 190gr
water, 60gr
egg whites, 70gr

To make macarons, we use egg whites that have been kept in the fridge for at least one day…Why? Egg whites from fresh eggs have a firmer structure, they are less supple, and for the process of blending the egg whites with the other ingredients,  “old” whites yield better results. Mind you! Remember to take the egg whites out of the fridge a few hours before starting so that they are at room temperature.

Sift the almond flour and icing sugar together. In a large bowl, fold 2/3 of this mixture in with the egg whites, and the food coloring. Remember that colors fade with baking so don’t be afraid if the color is a little intense at first. Combine the ingredients briskly. Don’t worry, nothing dangerous can happen at this stage!

Put the whites in the bowl of your stand mixer. In a saucepan, bring the water and sugar to 115°C. When your syrup reaches 100°C, start whipping the egg whites slowly into soft peaks. The idea is the whites should be ready the moment the syrup reaches the 115°C. Slowly, pour the syrup into the whites, and continue whipping until cool. Bravo! You have made an Italian meringue!

Add 1/3 of this meringue to the remaining 1/3 of the almond powder and powdered sugar mix. Combine everything well. Yes! Don’t be afraid of actually crushing your meringue, this is what you are supposed to do here! Add the rest of the meringue in little by little. The final result shouldn’t be too firm or too runny! Congratulations! You have finished the “macaronage”!

Pipe the macarons (with a pastry bag fitted with a plain 1 cm tip) on a baking sheet with a non-stick liner. For this recipe, my macarons measured 4cm in diameter. Tip the baking sheet slightly for an even final result. Let them sit until they are no longer sticky when you touch them lightly.

Put them in the oven (150°C). After 6 minutes, rotate the baking sheet for an even result. Bake 6 more minutes, but keep in mind cooking time may vary slightly based on your oven. Take them out of the oven and let them rest on the non-stick liner (remove them from the baking sheet otherwise they will continue baking!). Desired result? Crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside…

Enjoy!

Notes:

1. The syrup should be folded with the whites at 118°C, this is why we remove it from the heat at 115°C….three more degrees will be reached by the time you move the saucepan from the stove to the stand-mixer.
2. If you use two baking sheets, instead of one (one on top of the other), you will prevent excessive drying….

For the filling:

* poppy seeds
* smoked salmon, 200 gr
* Cream cheese, 300 gr (any cream cheese, not too soft in texture, or mascarpone)
* Vodka (enough to “soften the cheese” and according to personal taste)

(for 25/30 macarons, depending on size)

Related Links

• Lost in Cheeseland reports on the 2012 Macaron day in Paris!
• Adam Wayda from Paris Patisseries shares his Top 5 favorite macarons
• Are you looking for macarons in Berlin? Check out Art Sucre

Written by Cristina Lasarte for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Cristina Lasarte. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

To a food and wine lover, Beaune makes for a perfect day or weekend getaway when visiting Paris.  It is ideally located, just a couple hours from Paris via the TGV, and gives visitors a little taste of authentic France.   Beaune is a very picturesque, international little town that offers many possibilities for those interested in learning more about the food and wine of the region.  You can explore the small wine villages just outside Beaune and bike through the famous vineyards, wine tasting all along the way.

One of my favorite things to do on a bright spring morning in Burgundy is to visit a local market. You know spring is here when the season’s first wild leeks and artichokes appear at the market.  The air is perfumed with the smell of tiny Gariguette strawberries and the vendors’ stalls are filled with violet and white asparagus, wild leeks, fava beans, and spring peas.

The market days in Beaune are on Wednesday and Saturday.  Locals fill their market baskets to the brim before stopping at Le Parisian, a favorite local brasserie, for a leisurely coffee or glass of crémant before heading home.  On Saturdays, during the spring and summer months, there is a brocante in Place Carnot, the perfect place to find a vintage Madeleine pan, copper pots or French linens.

As an American cook, I am still in awe of the markets in France. I base my menus on what looks good at the market, and the people who spend their lives growing good food constantly inspire me…  Monsieur Méneger, for instance, is a chef and farmer passionate about heritage breeds of pigs and chickens. Madame Loichet gathers produce from her own garden for the Saturday morning market in Beaune. Monsieur Vossot is an artisan butcher who takes pride in preserving his craft. I am especially fond of Madame Petit for her fresh eggs and Madame Pechoux for what could be the most beautiful salad greens I have ever seen.

Spring is a lovely reminder that food is best when purchased locally and in season.  To get inspired, visit your local farmers’ market for your ingredients and eat alfresco.  Market greens and violet asparagus simply dressed with a light drizzle of olive oil and freshly squeezed lemon juice or steamed artichokes with homemade aioli are the perfect spring lunch.  For something a little more substantial, try this perfect asparagus risotto inspired by Mario Batali, a favorite at The Cook’s Atelier.

Asparagus Risotto with brown butter

Adapted from Mario Batali

• 1 pound asparagus, peeled trimmed and cut into one-inch long pieces, tips reserved
• 4 to 6 cups vegetable stock
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1/3 medium red onion, diced
• 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• sea salt to taste
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a pot of water to a boil.  Add the asparagus stalks and cook until quite soft, at least 5 minutes.  Rinse quickly under cold water.  Put cooked asparagus in a blender or food processor and add just enough water to allow the machine to puree until smooth.  Set aside.

Put the vegetable stock in a medium saucepan over low heat.  Put oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large, skillet over medium heat.  When it is hot, add onion, stirring occasionally until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy, about 2 to 3 minutes.  Add white wine, stir, and let liquid bubble away.  Add a large pinch of salt.  Add warmed stock, 1/2 cup or so at a time, stirring occasionally.  Each time the stock has just about evaporated, add more.

After about 15 minutes, add the remaining asparagus tips, continue to add stock when necessary.  In 5 minutes, begin tasting the rice.  You want it to be tender but with a bit of crunch; it could take as long as 30 minutes total to reach this stage.  When it does, stir in 1/2 cup asparagus puree.  Remove skillet from heat, add remaining butter and stir briskly.  Add Parmesan and stir briskly, then taste and adjust seasoning.  Garnish with asparagus tips and a drizzle of brown butter. Risotto should be slightly soupy. Serve immediately.

Related Links:

• Marjorie Taylor offers cooking classes and market tours in Burgundy though the Cook’s Atelier
• For yummy seasonal recipes, check out her blog
• A great collection of spring market recipes from Chez Lou Lou France
• Looking for cooking classes in Paris? Check out La Cuisine

Written by Marjorie Taylor for the HiP Paris Blog. All images also by Marjorie Taylor. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

You may have noticed that we have all gone a bit nuts over citrus recently here on Eat Boutique. First it was Maggie’s Meyer Lemon liquor. Then Meagan shows up with these incredible looking Pomander Cupcakes. Can you imagine a better afternoon than hanging out with these two ladies around a kitchen table, sipping a homemade Meyer lemon cocktail and slowly unwrapping an orange, buttermilk and clove cupcake? With all these tart treats jumping off my screen, I just couldn’t resist the urge to add my own citrus creation.

Luckily, the perfect situation presented itself a few cold weekends ago. I was visiting my family up in Maine, doing what I typically do up there: cook, read, sleep, eat, repeat.  My mom, intrigued by Maggie’s Meyer Lemon Liquor, had purchased a half dozen Meyer lemons at the local grocery store so that she could see what all the fuss was about.  I knew immediately that I wanted to try making a batch of lemon curd with the Meyer lemons, and set off to find the perfect recipe.

After searching various websites and food blogs, I grew weary of my computer, cast it aside, and went outside to play on the frozen lake. When I came back inside, cold and sleepy, I snuggled into the couch and heaved my new Dorie Greenspan cookbook onto my stomach, balanced it up against my knees and flipped through those beautiful pages. As I read, I realized that Dorie had a great lemon curd recipe in there the whole time.

Around My French Table might be my new favorite cookbook. The photographs are beautiful and compelling: I want to jump right into each picture and dig deep into the chard-stuffed pork roast, moules marinières, and salted butter break-ups.  The recipes are simple and geared towards unfussy meals at home or with a crowd of friends. The dishes come not just from Paris, but also feature traditional food from the different regions of France: Normandy, Provence, the Alps, and more. Like American food, French food is often influenced by other countries, particularly North African nations (tagine, couscous, b’stilla), Spain (chicken basquaise), and Italy (osso buco). Dorie gives great ideas about how to present, serve and store the food, as well as often offering up a bonne idèe about possible variations.  Most of all, I appreciated how straight-forward and unpretentious these recipes are – French food often gets a bad rap for being over-the-top and complicated, but this is the food that the French cook at home. My kind of food.

(Seadam; Francescav)

Most lemon curd recipes that I’ve ever seen involve only egg yolks – but not Dorie’s. She describes in her head notes that she misread instructions during a cooking class and added four whole eggs to the recipe. Her mistake didn’t destroy the lemon curd, but instead made it a tad lighter in taste and texture, and less fussy, since egg whites can handle more heat.

I used Meyer lemons in this recipe, giving the curd a slightly sweeter and rounder taste than a traditional lemon curd. While you can use regular lemons here, I simply loved the Meyer lemon version and I share a few suggestions for how to use it after the recipe.

Meyer Lemon Curd

Recipe adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table

Ingredients:

• 1 ¼ cups sugar
• 4 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup *
• about ¾ cup fresh lemon juice (from about 4-5 Meyer lemons)
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks

* This was the only change I made- my parents’ kitchen didn’t have corn syrup, so I used a tablespoon of agave nectar here, which was a good neutral alternative.

In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan (off-heat), whisk the sugar and the eggs together until blended. Whisk in the corn syrup (agave nectar) and lemon juice and then drop in the chunks of butter.

Put the saucepan over medium heat and start whisking, taking care to work the whisk into the edges of the pan. If your whisk is too big to clean the edges of the pan, switch to a wooden spoon or a silicone spatula. Keep heating and whisking the mixture without stop. After about 6 to 8 minutes, you’ll notice the curd starting to thicken- it won’t be very thick, but the change is easily perceptible. When the curd is thickened, and most important, you see a bubble or two burble to the surface and then pop immediately, remove the pan from the heat.

Scrape the curd into a heatproof bowl or a canning jar or two. Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to create an airtight seal, and let the curd cool to room temperature (it will thicken slightly as it cools). Chill before serving. The curd will keep up to three weeks, refrigerated.

Meyer Lemon Curd on Toast (French Tart)

A few thoughts on how to use your new handmade Meyer lemon curd:

• Top your morning piece of toast or English muffin with a bit of your own stock of lemon curd, and you might just feel like you have invited a ray of sunshine to your breakfast table. Want to ramp things up a notch? Bake some biscuits or scones to be vehicles for your lemon curd. Then invite me over to your place, please.

• Bake yourself up a special treat. Lemon curd is a fantastic filling for a gorgeous tart, mini tartelettes, or for lemon bars. I used this recipe as a guide with my batch of lemon curd, swapping out a bit of the flour for almond meal. It was a great end to a cold weather meal that needed a bit of brightness. I am also imagining using lemon curd as a base for this Blueberry Kuchen come summertime. Lemon and blueberries are one of my all time favorite super-tart combinations. My lips are puckering just thinking about it!

• Use the lemon curd as a pretty cake layer, inside a crepe, or as a filling in cookie sandwiches. I came across this adorable cookie in my lemon curd research, and I have big plans for it soon.

• Eat it right from the jar. Sometimes I think lemon curd might be the best when snuck straight from the fridge on the back of a spoon.

Related links:

• Dorie Greenspan’s website
• Honey and Jam for amazing dessert recipes and beautiful photos and for more on lemon curd
• Fabulous recipes and gorgeous photos Cannelle et Vanille

Written by Shelby Larsson (aka Lady Gouda) originally for Eat Boutique and re-posted on the Hip Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Eating and Paris. No matter how much you might try to dissociate the two, a stay in Paris without its fill of delicious treats could be a holiday in any other northern European capital, albeit one with some pretty nice architecture.  Letting yourself be tempted by the window displays in patisseries and the cozy banquettes of corner brasseries is all part of the charm of living in Paris.

You won’t be blamed for spending your time here eating your way through neighborhood markets and various restaurant guidebooks, but you may find upon returning home to a routine of simpler meals (what, no Coq au Vin for dinner tonight, Mom?) you wish you had brought some of the mythical recipes back with you.

To answer the ever more popular dream of the food-blogger/cook/tourist, scores of great and not-so-great cooking schools have opened up in Paris to teach eager visitors la cuisine française. If you are not serious enough to book a semester at the Cordon Bleu, though, you may find yourself overwhelmed by the options out there. Lucky for you, Ariel and I recently tried out a class at “La Cuisine”, a wonderful cooking school geared towards visitors and locals that we feel confident recommending to anyone looking to delve a little deeper into the secrets of French cuisine.

La Cuisine: Ariel peeling an apple, Geneviève stirring the Crème Anglaise (Julien Hausherr)

Oliver and Jane started “La Cuisine” just over a year ago, and its popularity has already supported their move to a fantastic location right next to the Hotel de Ville. Tired with the demands of her banking job, Jane decided to drop it all, work her network, put together a group of serious culinary professionals and open a cooking school. With a soon-to-be degustation room and cellar, in addition to the two lovely kitchen/classroom spaces, La Cuisine is a great place to soak up a few recipes & tips in a welcoming environment.

On our recent visit, Ariel and I learned from the lovely Nathalie how to make the elusive Crème Anglaise. As side dishes to this queen of creams, we also learned how to make a perfect Tarte Fine aux Pommes and a traditional Tarte Tatin. Ariel has the scoop on the recipes below… – Geneviève

——-

La Cuisine: Crème Anglaise (Julien Hausherr)

Mmmmm, I could just live off of Crème Anglaise alone! I miss that sweet ambrosia when I’m back in the states, since Americans tend to prefer the frozen version as a garnish to our pies and cakes.

For someone like me, an abysmal cook who can’t even fry an egg, the idea of actually making Crème Anglaise from scratch was madness, something best left to professionals for fear of botching one of the complex intermediary steps.

Au contraire mon amie! After taking the class at La Cuisine, both Genevieve and I have been able to recreate the sweet sauce (to the amazement of our family and friends)!

Here are Nathalie’s foolproof steps for a perfect Crème Anglaise:

Crème Anglaise:

500 ml whole milk

5 egg yolks

80 grams of sugar

½ vanilla bean

• Split your vanilla bean down the middle and add it to the milk
• Bring the milk to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, constantly stirring the pot and being careful not to scald the milk.
• In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar together until the mixture is thick and pale.
• When the milk has reached a boil, pour just a bit (about a cup) into the bowl with the egg and sugar mixture and quickly whisk it in. This will temper the eggs.  You can repeat this step if you’d like, pouring some more milk into the egg and sugar mixture and whisking together again.
• Reduce the heat on the milk to low heat.
• Pour the tempered egg mixture into the saucepan with the milk.
• You will need to stir the mixture in the saucepan constantly (in a figure 8 motion) to prevent the mixture from burning.
• Be careful never to let the crème come to a boil as it will cook the eggs.
• Stir until the crème coats the back of the spatula. You will know it is just right if you run your finger across the back of the coated spatula and the line your finger makes in crème holds and does not run.
• Then, take the pan off of the stove and place it in a cold water bath. Continue to stir the mixture. The cool water surrounding the pan will cool the Crème Anglaise down.
• Once it has cooled just a bit, strain it and put the mixture into the fridge to finish cooling completely. (Nathalie had a great tip here, she puts her mixture into a shallow cake pan so that it is spread out evenly over a larger area. This allows the mixture to cool evenly and quickly)
• Crème Anglaise can absorb smells from your fridge so make sure you cover it with plastic wrap (touching the surface of the plastic wrap to the liquid) or put it in an airtight container.
• Crème Anglaise is also the base for ice cream! If you have an ice cream maker at home, you can use this recipe for perfect homemade ice cream!

Now, you might think you would be in need of something to soak up your perfectly made Crème Anglaise. Nathalie had a few ideas for that too….

The classic French apple tart is so much more refined than our deep dish American version. The elegantly arranged apples make it look like the chef has spent hours creating this masterpiece. As Nathalie showed us, though, it is actually a really easy desert to make!  You can even create individual tarts as a special touch at dinner parties. Here’s how:

La Cuisine: Tarte Tatin pic crust (Julien Hausherr)

Tarte Fine aux Pommes:

1 puff pastry dough (come on, we know you’ll buy the pre-packaged version and we don’t blame you!)

3 large apples that are roughly the same size (Granny Smith work well)

70 grams salted butter (melted)

40 grams sugar

Cinnamon

1 lemon

• Roll out the dough and cut it into individual circles with a cookie cutter. Place them on a cookie sheet so they are not touching.
• Peel and core your apples, then cut them into very thin slices. Arrange them on top of your dough circles in a “flower” pattern.
• Drizzle lemon juice over the top of the apples to keep them from turning brown.
• Pour the butter over your individual apple tarts, making sure you have distributed it evenly.
• Sprinkle each tart with the cinnamon (to taste) and sugar; making sure the sugar is also distributed evenly to all of the tarts.
• Cook for 12 minutes at 250 degrees Fahrenheit.  Be sure not to open the oven door while they are cooking or else your dough will fall!
• When they come out, let them cool and serve them with the Crème Anglaise!

If you want to step it up a notch, you can always go for the Tarte Tatin, after all, there are few things better than the caramel-apple combination. This French classic is not only easier than it looks, but you can also make individual servings for your friends and family with this simple presentation…

La Cuisine: peeling apples (Julien Hausherr)

Tarte Tatin:

1.5 apples per person (Royal Gala work well)

100 grams of butter (room temperature)

Short pastry dough (pre-packaged is fine, we won’t tell!)

50 grams sugar

1 orange (optional)

• Butter individual ramekins using about 25 grams of your butter.
• Start by making a “dry caramel”: place ½ of your sugar into a pan to melt. Stir it frequently and make sure it doesn’t burn.
• When the sugar melts and starts to turn brown (not too dark), add in the rest of your sugar. Keep it on the heat, stirring frequently until it is fully melted and has turned a golden brown.
• Take it off the heat and add in 50 grams of butter, stirring it in thoroughly until the mixture is cloudy.
• Put one tablespoon of your caramel into the bottom of each ramekin
• Peel and core your apples, making sure the apple is kept whole. Cut up one of your extra apples into thin strips and stuff those into the core of each of your “whole” apples to fill in the core.
• Put one apple in each ramekin adding a dollop of butter on top of each one. This should use up the remaining 25 grams.
• Place all of your ramekins on a baking sheet, and put the baking sheet on a shelf in the middle of your oven.
• Broil the apples on high for 20 minutes checking frequently to make sure they don’t burn or turn black. You want the tops to caramelize.
• After 20 minutes, remove the ramekins and pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Return your ramekins to the oven to bake for another 30 minutes. (You can poke a toothpick into your apples to make sure they are tender all the way through, when they are, they are done!)
• Roll out your pastry dough and cut it with a cookie cutter that is roughly the same size as your ramekin.  Poke little holes in the raw dough with a fork to prevent it from bubbling up and place your individual circles on a cookie sheet. Bake them as directed by your recipe or the package.
• When your apples are finished, let them cool just a bit.  You may need to run a knife around the end of your ramekin to loosen the caramel. Place one pastry circle on the top of your ramekin and flip the entire thing over on a plate so the dough is on the bottom and your apple is sitting on top.  Remove the ramekin and you’ll have the perfect little Tarte Tatin. Garnish with Crème Anglaise!

- Ariel

La Cuisine: Observing the Crème Anglaise (Julien Hausherr)

For more information on the wonderful classes offered by La Cuisine, feel free to check out their website. Many thanks, also, to Julien Hausherr, the wonderful photographer who captured these moments.

Related Links:

• Paris By Mouth: Tarte Tatin at the Bistrot Paul Bert
• Eat Boutique on Les Petits Mitrons tart shop in Montmartre
• Dorie Greenspan’s (via David Lebovitz) recipe for French Apple Cake
• Kitchen at Camont cooking classes in Gascony

Written by Ariel Kocourek and Genevieve Sandifer for the Hip Paris blog. Julien Hausherr is a photographer based in Paris, specializing in architecture, still-life and reporting. Contact: julienhausherr@hotmail.fr. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Delicious ingredients: the keys for success

When I first moved to France, cooking scrambled eggs and pasta were about the extent of my kitchen capabilities. Mr. Cheeseland was understandably perplexed how I was able to nourish myself before he came along. Well a change of scenery and a couple of years to really get settled was just the push I needed to start cooking. We generally share the cooking responsibilities but I do the baking. That is, I make attempts.

One of the things that first catches our foreign eye when we come to France, apart from the Eiffel Tower, is the moelleux au chocolat — that typical French cake, so simple, yet so decadent, moist, scrumptious …And, immediately, we come to the conclusion that such a treat must be archi-compliqué to make… It ‘s French after all !

Today, I am going to show you not only how to make a moelleux but to take it to haute-pâtisserie levels, by coating it with the most luscious mirror glaze, and to top it off, a wonderfully fresh array of berries…

What ? You believe you can’t make it ? Well, unlike most foodbloggers who admit having felt a passion for cooking since an early age, I spent all my life away from the kitchens, teaching at schools and university, until one day, destiny took me to France (Yes, we are puppets in the hands of God), and there, a new passion was born ! but since learning on my own was hard, I decided to train professionally both in Buenos Aires and in Paris : Ecole Alain Ducasse, Ecole Lenôtre, in Plaisir…internship with the famous Parisian pâtissier Gérard Mulot…

This cake is not hard to make, but the first secret to incredible taste and texture begins with top quality chocolate … here I used Vahrona  61% cacao (you can buy the 1kilo package at G. Detou – 58 rue Tiquetonne).  I would advise you chocolate no less than 55% cacao, but not too high either, since the cake might turn too bitter. Same holds good for the cocoa powder…this incredibly brilliant mirror glaze is impossible to achieve without good cocoa powder

Ok, let’s get working…here is the recipe…

Moelleux au Chocolat

• Dark chocolate (minimum 55% cacao), 200gr
• Butter, 200gr
• Icing sugar, 60gr
• Granulated sugar, 60gr
• Eggs, 5
• Cornstarch, 40gr
• Salt, a pinch

Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Butter a 18/20/22cm ring mold. Wrap the bottom in aluminum foil. Place it on a baking sheet. Chop the chocolate coarsely. Add the butter in pieces. Melt in a “bain Marie”. Combine well. Pass the mixture to a stand mixer. Incorporate the sugars and salt. Then, add the eggs, one by one, whisking constantly. Finally, by hand, fold in the sifted cornstarch. Pour immediately in the ring mold. Bake for 22′/ 24′. Attention ! When you put a wooden stick in the center, it should not come out completely dry ! Otherwise your moelleux will not be moist ! Let it cool before removing from the mold. If you are going to glaze it, it is better to refrigerate it for at least 12 hours. You can make this cake a week in advance if you want to, as long as you keep it in the freezer. The glaze can be applied on the frozen cake too ! Now yes…make sure you cake stays in the fridge at least 6 hours before eating !

For the glaçage miroir (cocoa mirror glaze), you will need:

• Water, 150gr
• Cocoa powder, 60gr (pleeease !!!! good quality here, otherwise it won’t work…Valrhona again?)
• Heavy cream, 120gr
• Sugar, 180gr
• Gelatin 7gr (if you use gelatin in powder, sprinkle it on 30gr of water)

Put all the ingredients in a small saucepan, except the gelatin. Stir well with a metal whisk. Heat, stirring constantly until it boils. Continue stirring 5′ more, you will see the mirror-like appearance. Let it cool. Add the gelatin that has been hydrated in water, and then warmed a few seconds (warmed…NOT heated !) in the micro-wave oven. Combine well. Sift. Use at 35°C.

Take your moelleux out of the freezer, place it on a metal cake rack and pour the glaçage miroir on it. Tap the rack a little bit to remove excess. Refrigerate. Decorate the moelleux with all the berries that you like, think about creating volume, like this!

Bon Courage !

Cristina, From Buenos Aires to Paris. Cristina is available for private cooking lessons. Contact her here: frombuenosairestoparis@gmail.com

Related Links:

• Cristina attends an oh-so-chic French picnic, hats included
• Check out Eat Boutique for all-round foodie inspiration
• Dorie Greenspan on making Macarons at home

Text and Images by Cristina. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Photos: Foodnetwork.com and Deliciousdays.com

The two sessions (“Christmas in Provence” and “Christmas in Paris”) entailed the preparation—and enthusiastic consumption—of a variety of traditional holiday foods from these two parts of France. I was lucky enough to be invited to the Provence workshop, where I learned how to knead, whisk and poach like a pro, all while enjoying the company of the group—replete with Francophiles and gourmands—that turned out for the workshop.

It was an unforgettable way to kick off the holiday season, and I look forward to attempting the recipes on my own throughout the coming year.

Table Settings – Photos courtesy of Corinne Colen, The Culinary Loft

We gathered in the gorgeous Culinary Loft, an event and cooking space in Soho, where the long dining table was already elegantly set, and a variety of specialty products and traditional French ingredients awaited us. Rosa Jackson, a Nice-based food writer who gives market tours and writes about her work on her blog Edible Adventures, welcomed us. Her collaborator, Paule Caillat, owner of Promenades Gourmandes in Paris, formed the second half this dynamic duo. The women have known each other for years and, when given the opportunity to collaborate, form a culinary force to be reckoned with. On this occasion, Rosa’s go-with-the-flow calmness and Paule’s fun-loving energy laid the groundwork for an afternoon of delicious discovery.

Photos courtesy of Corinne Colen, The Culinary Loft

On the menu: a traditional pissaladiere (caramelized onion tart), monkfish with aïoli, a green salad, tarte au citron (lemon tart) and chocolate mousse made with olive oil. Any menu that includes two desserts gets a thumbs up in my book, but the most interesting part of this menu was the creative use of two basic ingredients: salt and olive oil. Special artisanal salt (nacre du sel) and Provence-produced olive oils were integrated into every dish (including the desserts), infusing the foods with a fresh, lightness—a welcome departure from the dense holiday dishes most of us are used to.

Rosa is one of those rare few who can whip up a feast without any ostensible effort—she fielded questions while simultaneously measuring ingredients and dispensing a number of culinary tips. Her non-traditional kneading technique involved slamming the pissaladiere dough onto a bamboo cutting board with a resounding Thwack! “It’s very therapeutic,” she noted.

We milled around, hopping between stations where chocolate was melted, garlic was crushed (for fresh aïoli—so much better than the jarred variety), carrots were boiled, eggs were whisked, and onions were “sweated” on the stove.

Paule Caillat and Rosa Jackson – Photos courtesy of Corinne Colen, The Culinary Loft

After a few hours, we gathered at the table to bask in our culinary triumph, which we enjoyed alongside a crisp rosé from Provence. As we passed various dishes, we swapped stories of our travels in France, our careers (an eclectic mix of writers, chefs, artists and business owners were in attendance), and our own home-cooking adventures (and misadventures).

The meal was delightful, but the communal experience even more so. And while I’m no chef, I enthusiastically anticipate the opportunity to attempt some of these recipes in the New Year. Whether you’re in France or just dreaming of it, cooking is one of the best way to transport yourself—at any time of the year.

Courtesy of Corinne Colen, The Culinary Loft

To learn more about Rosa’s writing, blog and tours, click here.

To learn more about Paule’s Paris-based Promenades Gourmandes, click here.

For more information on the Culinary Loft (available for private events), click here.

A few recipes to try out:

Aïoli

Ingredients:

2 garlic cloves

1-2 egg yolks

1 slice dry bread soaked in milk

¾ cup olive oil

½ lemon

Coarse sea salt

Freshly ground pepper

Equipment:

Mortar and pestle

Crush the garlic with the sea salt in a mortar. Add the egg yolk and the bread, squeezing out the excess milk. Add the olive oil drop by drop, always turning the pestle in the same direction. The mixture should thicken like a mayonnaise. Squeeze in a little lemon juice to taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Chocolate Mousse with Olive Oil

Serves 4

4 oz. good quality dark chocolate (around 65% cocoa solids)

2 T. olive oil

2 egg yolks

4 eggs whites

Pinch of salt

1 t. white sugar

A few drops olive oil, to serve

In a heatproof bowl placed over a saucepan of simmering water (or in the microwave), melt the chocolate with the olive oil. Remove from heat and let cool until warm (not hot).

Add egg yolks to the chocolate mixture one by one, mixing well each time.

In a mixer, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form soft peaks, adding the sugar once they have turned white.

Add 1/3 of the egg whites to the chocolate mixture and combine with a whisk to lighten the mixture. Carefully fold in the remaining whites with a spatula, until you see no more traces of white.

Transfer the mousse to a soufflé dish or to individual ramekins and chill for at least three hours.

Serve with a few drops of olive oil on top.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text by Simone Blaser

This Christmas, we’re indulging in a holiday treat that is both delicious and oh-so-French: the marron glacé. That’s code for glazed chestnuts—gooey nuggets of pure holiday joy. When done wrong, they are overpoweringly saccharine; but at their best, they have a nutty and subtle sweetness so delicate and modest, it’s no wonder they gained popularity in Louis XIV’s court at Versailles.

The first recipe emerged in the 16^th century around Lyon, and has lasted throughout the centuries.  These candies are made over the course of a few days by soaking peeled chestnuts in sugar syrup and drying the chestnuts once the liquid has been absorbed.  MG-diehards claim to taste the difference between marrons glacés made according to this traditional-if-lengthy cooking process and those created according to more time-efficient recipes (a.k.a. cop outs!).

What makes these French candies different from other, more famous cousins like the macaron? Tout simplement, it’s their seasonal lifespan, their but-once-a-year allure. My favorites are from Pierre Hermé, a confectioner who rarely disappoints. For less luxe options, you can find them at most chocolate shops (and even boulangeries and supermarkets), but get them fast! The good ones are only around through the holiday season.

Feeling motivated? Try glazing your own marrons at home. Make sure to plan ahead—it takes a few days to complete the process.

Ingredients:

1 lb. chestnuts, shell and membrane removed

1 lb. sugar

650 ml. water (plus or minus 2.5 cups)

1 vanilla bean

1. Fill a large saucepan with water, enough to cover the chestnuts (with shell and membrane removed).  Bring the water to a boil and cook for 8 minutes.  Drain and discard the water.  Rub the chestnuts between a dish cloth until the skins come off.

2. In a different pan, cook the sugar, water, and vanilla bean over low heat.  Stir until the sugar dissolves.  Gently simmer for 5 minutes, then add the chestnuts.  Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and discard the vanilla bean.

3. Cover the pan and steep over night or for at least 12 hours. Bring again to a boil and cook for 1 minute more. Let the pan stand for 24 hours. Repeat this step again until all the syrup has been absorbed (3-4 times).

4. Preheat the oven to 65 degrees Celsius or 150 degrees Fahrenheit.  Cover an oven rack with parchment paper.  Distribute the crystallized chestnuts evenly and allow to dry out with the oven door propped open a few centimeters for 2 hours (or until chestnuts are firm and dry).

5.  Cool completely. Store in a container with parchment or waxed paper between the layers.  Should keep for about 2 weeks.

Bon appetit!

Written by Simone Blaser for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Lazy? Have a sweet tooth? Have we got the job for you! Our friend Rosa Jackson (of Edible Adventures) is working on her second cookbook, Les Meilleurs Desserts des Paresseuses (“Lazy Women’s Best Desserts”). From now until mid-February, Rosa will be testing recipes to include in the book, and she is accepting ideas from lazy people far and wide.

The main idea? “Easy, fast recipes for lazy people who want to impress without breaking a sweat.” Most of the recipes will be variations on traditional French desserts, but Rosa will also include some Italian and Anglo-inspired dishes (and a few organic options for the health-conscious).If you have a recipe you would like to submit, please email it to Rosa at rosa@rosajackson.com. Please indicate whether the recipe is original or taken / adapted from another source (and if so, which one). If Rosa selects your recipe to be used in the book, your name will appear alongside it.

Basically: Rosa does the work, and you get the credit… the lazy chef’s dream. So get cooking!

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Our friend Clotilde Dusoulier (of Chocolate and Zucchini) has helped to edit the English version of Ginette Mathiot’s classic french cookbook, Je Sais Cuisiner. This book is the bible of French cooking and can be found in just about every French kitchen (Fanny Farmer or The Joy of Cooking would be the American equivalents). When I spoke to Clotilde last spring, she was wrapping up the project, and this Tuesday, November 17, at 7pm, she will be at WH Smith to publicize the book—on shelves now in France and the United States. The event will also mark the 6th anniversary of Chocolate and Zucchini, Clotilde’s wildly successful food blog that put her on the map as one of today’s best culinary bloggers.

Wine and nibbles will be served. The event is free and open to the public, but you should RSVP to get a spot on the guest list. To do so, send an email to books@whsmith.fr with “I Know How To Cook Reservation” as the subject. Please supply your contact information and the number of people in your party.

Event: Tuesday, November 17, 7pm at WHSmith, 248 rue de Rivoli, 75001. M° Concorde. Tel: 01 44 77 88 99

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.