March 16, 2017
Blé Sucré, Erin Dahl
The Quartier d’Aligre is one of my favorite pockets of Paris, and one I am lucky enough to call home. Located just southeast of Bastille, the area has a little bit of everything: bustling shops on rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (including a Marks & Spencer and sizeable Monoprix) and easy metro access, but also calm streets and a true neighborhood feel. I even brought my caviste a portion of blanquette de veau a few weeks back. The beloved Marché d’Aligre, a lively daily market located on/around the Place d’Aligre, is only the start. Here are some of my other favorite addresses:
February 28, 2017
There’s a new daytime dining address in the 18th and it’s making a killing on its wholesome plant-based dishes. Abattoir Végétal (literally “Vegetable Slaughterhouse”) is a vegetarian breakfast and lunch spot on the “other side” of Montmartre.
January 5, 2017
With the holiday whirlwind winding down, we’re enjoying the post-fête calm in Paris. However, January brings its own set of exciting events, like the annual winter soldes and Paris Fashion Week. Here are some other happenings we’re excited for this month:
December 7, 2016
When searching for solid Italian cuisine, you know you have chosen well when the chefs and wait staff can be heard passionately chattering away in Italian on the terrace during their quick break between rushes. It is understandable why Parisiens, and in-the-know tourists alike, are flocking to Mamma Primi, the newest address from Big Mamma Group.
Following from the success of East Mamma and Ober Mamma, Mamma Primi saw its doors open to eager diners, ready to get in on the hype, on the 1st September in the Batignolles district of the 17th arrondissement, just a stone’s throw from Place de Clichy and the Butte Montmartre.
January 28, 2016
It had only been a few months since I moved to the French countryside, but my city life already seemed like a distant memory.
In exchange for a Parisian apartment, I now have a house in the Loire Valley. I also have a dwarf goat and a giant goose in my yard, a basketful of freshly harvested walnuts and farm-fresh vegetables in the kitchen, and 150 bottles of Gamay juice fermenting in an ancient stone shed in the front yard, slowly becoming my first batch of wine.
January 21, 2016
Shopping for meat in Paris is a great way to discover French specialities and find inspiration for new recipes. French cuisine favors using the whole animal and encourages preparing the meat for main dishes, but also using the intestines, bones, and other innards to make sauces, stocks, and sides.
August 13, 2014
The good King Dagobert would hunt bear and wild boar through the forest that is now the 2000-acre Bois de Boulogne on the western edge of Paris. That was over 1000 years ago. Today the air is filled with laughter instead of hunting arrows, but the woods are still alive with adventure and excitement, thanks to Napoleon III who returned from exile in London full of ideas for English gardens in Paris. He commissioned his city planner, the Baron Haussmann, to create more green space near Paris’ rapidly expanding west end, insisting on a stream with lakes like his cherished Hyde Park.
He insisted on the water elements to provide a bit of fresh air. Today they serve as an idyllic spot for a peaceful afternoon watching swans glide by, rowing boats, or dining at the remote, romantic Chalet des Iles, an island accessible only by boat.
The Bois offers a range of dining options, from fast food at one of the numerous snack stands, to the two palaces of haute cuisine: the Michelin-starred La Grande Cascade and the Relais & Chateau Le Pré-Catelan. For people with more moderate tastes but also an appreciation for good food, there are additional options available at many of the attractions, as well as the quaintly rustic l’Auberge du Bonheur.
July 30, 2014
When Benjamin Franklin came to Paris as US ambassador, he moved into the charming village of Passy, where genteel manor homes filled the bucolic countryside in what is now the 16th arrondissement. The Passy neighborhood still has that easy village feel, shady streets leading the way for relaxed, affluent Parisians out running their daily errands. It is far from the tourist crowds, yet very much in the heart of the city, the Eiffel Tower never far from sight.
The 16th is known for its wide tree lined boulevards with bourgeois apartment buildings, the epitome of Baron Haussmann’s 19th century urban planning. This is an arrondissement made for leisurely strolls and easy access, full of excellent museums, remarkable food, and stupendous views with the extraordinary 2000-acre Bois de Boulogne park just steps away.
May 15, 2009
Erica’s daily discoveries, wanderings and original tips and insights into Paris, France and Italy. The goal: to help you experience a more authentic and individual travel experience. I am pleased to share these findings, and my escapades with you – I hope you will enjoy!