In Paris, the fashion trend of the moment is having your own personal shopper. From the city’s grands magasins to independent fashion advisers, there’s no shortage of creative alternatives to traditional shopping.

Many Paris shops are offering personal shopping services to their clients, including the big department stores, who offer individual sessions by appointment with a stylist. At Galeries Lafayette, for instance, a fashion adviser guides shoppers to the most fashionable brands after a private interview, showing the newest items and helps while their clients try on clothes. Printemps also offers the services of a private stylist by appointment, who will accompany shoppers throughout the store, guiding them in their choices. A personal room is made available to try on the clothes at leisure.

Independent personal shoppers, a concept that originated in the United States, are also on the rise in Paris. From makeovers to taking clients to the most exclusive (and sometimes hidden) fashion addresses, these style professionals lead clients through Paris to put together a made-to-measure look. Nadia Ronteix, for instance, specializes in not-to-be-missed luxury labels and the shops of Parisian fashion designers. She puts together personalized itineraries after a short interview with her client. A former editor for the Elle fashion magazine, Fleur Deslandes, shares her expertise and gives a new lease of life to tired wardrobes through shopping itineraries tailored to the needs and budget of clients.

There are agencies designed around the whole concept of personalized shopping. Mixing shopping and culture, stylists from Promenade des sens accompanies clients on a Parisian “art de vivre.” From iconic labels to the workshops of young designers, their itineraries are interspersed with interesting cultural anecdotes. Other agencies, such as Paris Upperside, show you the elegance and the glamor of Parisian fashion, from young designers to department stores and vintage shops. The makeover agency Allure offers to put together a personalized wardrobe adapted to clients’ professional and private life. And designer Irène Adamian puts her passion for Paris at your service. Her agency, French for a day/Shopping Plus, offers a total immersion into Parisian life for a discovery of all the wealth the capital has to offer: the workshops of young designers, unusual and prestigious shops, new concept stores and more.

Related Links:

• Miki Private Shopping on Rue Saint Honoré
• Amy Thomas: Shopping in the Haut Marais
• Lilye, Personal Shopper

Article by Sophie Delon for Parisien Salon. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out our website Haven in Paris.

In Part 1 of this series, Erica Berman shared her most telling anecdotes about the difference between life in France and life in Italy. While most of us can only envy the lifestyle that makes intimate knowledge of those details a part of daily life, Erica’s insight into the particularities of French and Italian culture helps us live the dream. In part two, she moves beyond general life to get to the juicy stuff : how the natives operate.

Photos Erica Berman – Seafood Pasta in Italy this summer

Differences between the French and the Italians…

• Nothing is a problem for the Italians…everything is a problem for the French. I think there are numerous posts to be written on this thought… a suivre!

• Italians miss pasta and coffee when away from their beloved Italy. The French are hands down pining for bread and cheese when far from home.

Croissants in Paris

• The French do not ask personal questions. Italians ask many. The French find asking questions a sign of indiscretion, and they take the utmost pride in being discreet, sometimes to the point of ridiculous (when applying for a job they may not feel comfortable asking the salary).

• The Italians are curious and their inquiring minds want to know.  In elevators in Italy I have had personal conversations on where I’m from and why I’m in Italy with people I have never seen before and will probably never see again. In France a bonsoir or bonjour is possibly all the chatting you will get after years of being neighbors.

• Italians remember you after seeing you once. The French might, of course, remember you, I am convinced they do, but will do their very best to pretend that they have never seen you before (my corner bakery in Montmartre is in the running for longest possible non recognition of a regular customer – almost 18 years. The bread is so amazing and their complete neutrality so fascinating, I keep on going).

At the beach in Italy – Finale Ligure / Genoa

• After one or two visits to a café or shop in Genoa, not only do the staff remember me, they remember my order.  Ten months after my last visit to Genoa, the locals immediately recognize me as the La Française or l’Americana and make friendly chatter. I could spend my life in a Paris cafe before I was noticed, and to get the garçon to remember my order I would need to become a cat and have 9 lives.  In Genoa I no longer even need to speak, aside from buongiorno, when going for my morning cappuccino or to the newspaper stand. They just know.

• The Italians are forgiving when you butcher their language. They are so pleased that you are trying to speak Italian they overlook a lot of botched grammar.

Tourists relaxing in front of Eglise St Sulpice in Paris

• The Italians speak Italian to me and do not switch to English or French despite my obvious foreign status. They are invariably patient and delighted by my effort. In France, not always, but often (exceptions of course exist) they will switch to English with a non native as they are so proud that they speak your language.

• The French are truly offended if you want to buy something in their shop, restaurant, cafe or supermarket and you do not have appropriate (ie: small and exact) change. The Italians, are happy you are buying something. Basta! For example, the other day I went to but a 1€ daily paper here in Italy and realized I forgot my change purse and only had a 50€ note. I meekly offered it to the newspaper guy apologizing all the while and expecting him to yell at me and tell me to come back when I had proper change as would be the case in France (or I would have to buy 5 other newspapers to make it worth his time to change the 50). This guy? He smiled, said not a problem, gave me my 49€ in change and wished me an excellent day! I walked away with a big smile on my face just thinking about the equivalent transaction in France and the pain it would have caused.

Always on Strike … the French!

• Improper (ie: not small) change in a cab is a major insult to a French cabbie. Italian drivers, if they do not have the correct change … will ask for it from a shop or passerby, with a smile!

• The Italians seem to prepare less homemade desserts then the French, but make up for it with daily stops to the gelateria!

• Both Italians and French are equally obsessed with Soccer!

Life in both countries is fascinating and there are many observations to be made. What about you, readers – do you have any cultural anecdotes (about France, Italy, Europe, and beyond!) to share?

• Erica’s Life in Italy vs France Part 1
• David Lebovitz eats his way through Rome, Italy
• Cultural Differences Italy vs US by John Talbott on Bonjour Paris

Written by Erica Berman for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

If there’s something the French know how to do well, it’s give themselves a break (or rather, a pause). They see downtime as a preventative measure, a means to avoiding exasperation (as opposed to an emergency response to it). Whereas many of us wear ourselves so thin that we desperately need whatever it is (a break, a drink, a vacation), in France, it’s more about “we deserve this” than “we need this.”

L’heure de l’apéro (the French equivalent of cocktail hour) is the moment when the French consciously create some space between the workday and the dinner hour, demonstrating their talent for slowing down and, somehow, miraculously expanding time. On nice days, the apéro coincides with the moment when the city is suddenly bathed in that rosy, only-in-Paris light, and you suddenly feel like you’re exactly where you’re supposed to be in the world.

Non-traditional apéro settings are also appropriate: river banks, parks, benches… Boklm

Practically speaking, though, the idea of the apéro (a colloquial form of apéritif) is to whet the appetite for the meal to come. (The word comes from the latin aperire, which means to open). When at a café or bar, it’s typical to have glass of wine or champagne, a beer, or a kir (white wine with a splash of Crème de Cassis). Old-school traditionalists go for a pastis (an anise-flavored liqueur mixed with water and ice), and among my friends, Lillet (a sweet wine infused with citrus liqueur) has taken off of late. Take note: l’heure de l’apéro is not a time to pound American-style cocktails, which makes sense, considering a whiskey sour will do little to prep your palette for any kind of serious dégustation. And while cocktail culture is on the rise in France, mixed drinks have not historically been part of the French tradition.

Dave Bloom

When drinks arrive, there is a strict protocol to be followed. Listen carefully.

• You must clink glasses with everyone in your group, usually saying “Santé” (health) which is short for “A votre santé” (to your health), but:
• Do not cross arms with others in the group (bad luck). Wait until all arms have cleared before reaching to the person across from you.
• Always make eye contact with the person you’re clinking, or risk seven years of bad luck (of the carnal variety).  

Apero Café Charlot in the Marais – Erica Berman

If you follow these rules, you’re set. Then just relax and enjoy. Your server will likely bring you quelque chose à grignoter (something to nibble), such as olives or peanuts. If you’re looking for something a bit more substantial, many cafés and wine bars offer a charcuterie selection, which they’ll often serve with crunchy little cornichons. It’s usually at this point that I vow to inhabit the l’heure de l’apéro indefinitely. But, as with all good things, we must moderate.

Sustenance – Hipposrunsuperfast.com

Luckily for us, this mini-indulgence is as routine as setting your morning alarm—but a lot more delightful. On that note, we don’t have to think of it as an indulgence at all, but as a step towards self-preservation. In Paris, I’ve learned that the best way to sustain life is to savor it. Santé.

Check out these spots for perfect Parisian apéro:

Le Baron Rouge: Pick up groceries at the Marché d’Aligre and then stop by this neighborhood wine bar for a verre and a killer charcuterie plate. 1, rue Théophile-Roussel, 12ème. Tél: 01 43 43 14 32.

Le Sancerre: Head to this Montmartre café to observe the action on bustling Rue des Abbesses. 35, rue des Abbesses, 18ème. Tél: 01 42 58 08 20.

Outdoor café scene, Paris – Malias

Da Rosa: Settle into this elegant épicerie fine that sells gourmet products from Italy, Spain and Portugal. Sample wines, cheeses and meats from these countries, or request the awesome (not-too-sweet) sangria. 62, rue de Seine, 6ème. Tél: 01 45 21 41 30.

L’Avant Comptoir: Snag at the seat at the counter of this neighborhood wine bar and order up snacks like Iberian ham and spicy chorizo along with interesting wines (some at just 2 euros a glass). Prepare to make friends with those around you—this place is cozy! 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6ème. Arrondissement. Tél: 08 26 10 10 87.

Related Links:

• Sally Peabody’s detailed explanation of the French Apéro
• Badaude’s apéro spot: Hotel du Nord
• The perfect spot for summer cocktails: Hotel Particulier Montmartre

Written by Tory Hoen for the Hip Paris blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Fifty degree weather? Rain? What’s next, sleet? The summer is obviously on vacation somewhere else this year. It packed up and went on a tour of Italy and Spain most likely, because it’s definitely not in Paris! The sun has been taking a big ole dump on my outdoor plans for quite a while now. I’ve been cooped up in my apartment too long, another week of this and I’ll be eligible for the hermit of the year award.

It’s time to brave the weather and see Paris from the inside out. Here are a few things that are tempting me at the moment:

YSL expo at Petit Palais: I’ve heard great things about this exhibit, but haven’t gotten around to going yet! It’s open until this weekend, so I’m down to the wire to get around to doing anything that could give me the slightest insight about how to dress my sorrily-clothed-self.

Kentrige 5 Themes expo at Jeu de Paume: This is by far one of my favorite museums in Paris; the expos never fail to disappoint! This expo looks particularly good. I like that it’s a mix of mediums – drawings, prints, films & all that. This is good because I have a real attention span pro- DID YOU SEE THAT BIRD FLY BY??

Supagroova, Lemmiworld

Tea at l’Hotel: My friend Rebecca introduced me to this place and it was love at first sight. It’s the perfect place to cozy up and drink your self warm again. Luxurious, a bit swanky, but they’ll let you sit and relax for hours with a good book. (Read: I’m cheap. 5€ is already a lot, so I’m getting my money’s worth!)

And here are suggestions from the Paris experts via Twitter! These people REALLY know their way around the city, you can trust them with your rainy vacation days! Please be sure to check their blogs and add them on Twitter for more insights!!

Bachmont

Museums & Activities

@ParisCosy  - http://www.pariscosy.com – Go to the Jardin des plantes? the tropical glasshouses…

@fleurishing – http://www.fleurishingblog.com/ -  Spend all day at the Musé d’Orsay, or stroll around Palais Royal!

@ParisKarin – http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ – I recently went to the Musée national du Moyen Âge for the first time on a free Sunday a week or so ago. It was sprinkling on and off that day. It was a perfect museum to see on the free day, too — not too crowded. That was my best rainy day experience so far during this weird-weather summer. The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, of course, were a highlight. I think it was just the amount of medieval art all together in one museum. There is a real sense of time and place there, an ancient past well represented. The chapel there reminded me of Hogwarts, too, which was cool.

@BethArnold – http://www.betharnold.com/ – I’m a movie-holic, so I’m up for a movie any ole time, especially when it rains.

@HavenInParis – http://hipparis.com – Check out the 104 and then walk to a movie  at MK2 Quai de Seine/ Quai de Loire. After shopping at the Bio Coop On the Canal. Another option is Forum des Images (amazing and cheap movies)!

Erica Berman – View from Houdon Montmartre 1-bedroom

Shopping

@petitfranceblog – http://www.lepetitfranceblog.com/ – I’d cruise the gourmet hall at Galeries Lafayette, catch-up on some shopping, then hit their prosciutto & wine bar for lunch.

@cailinash – http://thedomesticgoddess.tumblr.com/ – Is it wrong I automatically thought of Galeries Lafayette as my #parisrainyday solution?

Wandering & Lounging

@kasiainparis – http://www.loveinthecityoflights.com/ – Rainy day in Saint Germain: gallery hopping on Rue de Seine followed by an apéro and people watching at Bar Du Marche

@lafemmecooks – http://lafemmecooks.com/ – Also how about trying to make macarons from scratch? or mexican hot chocolate?

@LostNCheeseland – http://www.lostincheeseland.com/ – Check out the Palais de Tokyo or Musé d’Orsay!

@kasiainparis – http://www.loveinthecityoflights.com/ – Rainy day at Place des Vosges: visit the Maison de Victor Hugo, gallery hopping, followed by lunch/cafe at Cafe Hugo.

@52Martinis – http://52martinis.blogspot.com/ – Visit the covered passages around the 9th (around the auction houses) lots of cute cafes, restos, shops.

@phyllisflick – http://parisnotebook.wordpress.com/ – I like the Danton café at Odeon with its large windows for watching the world go by.

Hipposrunsuperfast.com Supagroova

@52Martinis – http://52martinis.blogspot.com/ – How about a movie, but not just any movie – at a funky, artsy cinema like La pagode or Studio 28?

@LittleBrownPen – http://littlebrownpen.blogspot.com/ -

Paris plus rain, plus a night sky, plus lights, equals one of my favorite things. Rather than duck for cover, hit a museum. Otherwise embrace the rain, open the umbrella and enjoy the show. What show? Light dancing on the glowing pavement, moody people tucked under umbrellas and into trench coats, the juxtaposition of warm, glowing interiors and the dark, wet cold. I’ll eventually tire of the rain and will choose a café in which to warm up and enjoy a café creme, but not before I enjoy every sight and sound.

@Badaude – http://www.Badaude.typepad.com – Just go with it. Sit in a café and drip. Parisians love to complain about the weather so take this opportunity to feel more French without putting in too much effort. For maximum effect smoke en terrasse under one of those plastic awnings. Bring a book.

Readers, what are some of your favorite things to do in Paris in the rain?

PS: Listen to the rain fall on Parisian rooftops

Written by Shannon. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

View from Pilleux Montmartre Studio

Erica Berman has a gift. She can look at a crumbling shell of a hovel and see its potential as a beautiful apartment. This gift has served her well over her 18 years living in Paris, as she’s renovated upwards of 15 apartments that started out as “blah” (at best), only to be transformed into “wow.”

Pilleux Studio – Murphy bed with antique doors, after and before

Her most recent project really put her abilities to the test, as she and her partner Alain renovated a small studio overlooking the Cimetière de Montmartre. Having stayed in what is now a fantastic apartment, I was stunned when Erica shared the story of its evolution.

“There was nothing there but the bones when we bought it,” explains Erica. “Just a shelf.” Looking at some of the “before” photographs also reveals peeling walls, unremarkable floors and an enclosed bathroom that cut the space dramatically. “There was nothing in there we wanted to keep,” she adds.

Erica and Alain worked with an architect to determine the best way to use the space. Once they agreed on the layout, they got to work with a contractor.

Pilleux Studio, before: bathroom/kitchen

Toilet layout before work

Pilleux studio after renovations: kitchen, bathroom

The old bathroom was completely knocked out. The new plan split the space so that the toilette was enclosed near the apartment’s entrance, with the shower and sink opening to the rest of the apartment.

Pilleux Studio, after: Kitchen

“We decided not to add a door to the bathroom because we thought it worked better,” says Erica. They also decided to keep the glass shower door transparent. “You can see Sacre Coeur while you’re in the shower, which is pretty amazing.” (Note: the W.C. is enclosed and separate)

Pilleux studio bathroom/kitchen: before and after

Pilleux WC: before and after (WC was flipped to face entrance)

The renovation included adding a surprising amount of cupboard and closet space, along with shelves and a modern kitchen with a sink, convection cooktop, oven, refrigerator and a washer/dryer duo. There’s also a sofa that doubles as a twin bed, but the most delightful surprise in this apartment is the Murphy-style bed.

Pilleux window and desk overlooking Montmartre cemetery: before and after

Antique doors Erica found in Provence hide the bed during the day and add a distinctive accent to the space. Alain crafted the bed himself, fashioning “feet” for when the bed is pulled down from the hooks that serve as handles. He also spent countless hours cleaning the tiles that edge the kitchen space.

Pilleux studio murphy bed, made with antique doors (after)

After three months of work, the renovated apartment was completed, filled with wonderful objects Erica found at the Provence and Paris flea markets. The next challenge—or so Erica thought—would be the location of the studio.

Pilleux studio entrance way: before and after

“We thought that because it’s off the main tourist track, we’d have a harder time booking the apartment,” says Erica. “We were wrong.” In fact, the apartment has proved one of Haven in Paris’ most popular. From my experience of staying there, it’s easy to understand its appeal. It offers a magnificent view, has all the conveniences of a modern apartment, and all the charm of what one expects to find in Paris.

But, more than that, this apartment offers an authentic Paris experience. Stepping through the gates of Cité Pilleux and walking past the artisans and artists who set up shop along the path makes one feel like they’ve been afforded insider access to the real Paris. The apartment straddles Montmartre and the trendy Batignolles neighborhood, and a leisurely stroll reveals wonderful restaurants and boutiques frequented by the locals.

This is also something Erica realized when scouting the apartment. “This is the real Paris,” she says. “And that’s something we wanted to share.”

Related Links:

• The Paris Apartment – gorgeous blog on French-style Interior Decor
• Parisien Salon interviews Erica Berman
• Rosa Jackson stays in Houdon, another one of Erica’s Montmartre flats

Written by Linda Donahue for Parisien Salon. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

I’m back in Paris after 2 months of learning Italian in Genoa, Italy. The cool Paris weather is a shock after the heat of Italy, but I’m excited to be home.

Naturally, I can’t help comparing the (Genovese) Italians to the (Parisian) French with whom I have cohabited for almost 18 years. Little differences and similarities between the daily life in both countries are entertaining, endearing and often surprising.

Doggy love Italian style

Things I have noticed: Life in Italy vs France

• You will be scoffed at in both countries for ordering a cappuccino in the afternoon. Mind you, I do it anyway. How gauche is that?

• Both Italians and French cut lines with zeal. Little old Italian ladies are surprisingly cunning. Be alert!

• Taxis in both cities can, and will, try to rip you, the foreigner, off even if you speak the language. Be aware.

• Both Italians and French love their doggies and bring them in trains, restaurants and just about everywhere they can physically go. In both countries you will see many a person out and about deep in conversation with Fido.

Parisian doggy

• In Italy every respectable home must have a bidet. In France the bidet is mostly a thing of the past.

• Every worthy French kitchen is equipped with a Ginette Mathiot ‘Je Sais Cuisiner’ cookbook and a cocotte minute (pressure cooker). In Italy every respectable home has a fettatrice (cold cut slicer) and a Bimby (an incredible machine that does everything from mixing, steaming and cooking a perfect risotto in 14 minutes… Along with focaccia, ice cream, bread dough, pasta sauce…)
• The train is a source of pride in France. Trains are fast, sleek and modern. In Italy, one cannot quite say the same. In both countries however, to the surprise of many, one can actually take the train just about everywhere.

Train and doggy in Italy

• In Italy clothes are hung out to dry for all to see. And that means all clothes, no matter how intimate! In Paris, there are strict rules against hanging laundry where it is publicly visible.

Laundry in Italy/ 1972 law against hanging laundry in Paris seen in a friends’ building in Paris!

• In Italy, it often feels like there are more scooters then people. The French scoot, but to a lesser degree than their pasta-eating counterparts.

• In Italy everyone has a cell phone. It’s the same in France. The Italians yak efficiently on their phone while doing everything from driving, scooting and eating to walking and working. The French appear more disciplined about not using cell phones in moving transit. It could be that it is illegal in France. Then again, it is probably illegal in Italy too.

• In Italy you can use cafe restrooms even if you are not a customer, without sneaking in like a criminal. Ask politely and admission will be granted. In Paris I have had some desperate moments of urgent need and adamant refusal. I have now resorted to the technique of « don’t look, don’t tell » when entering a café in need of a toilet. I have learned to keep my head down and to beeline straight to the bathroom as if it were the most natural thing in the world. And it works!

• Italian couples on the beach, are, well, comfortable with PDA (public displays of affection). I almost never go to the beach in France so I can’t comment on what it is like.

Need I say more – Beach in Italy  this July!

• In Italy I have rediscovered how to be chatty and smiley with shop owners and restaurant staff, something I had forgotten in France.

• In Paris I have perfected the art of pretending not to see people I recognize as they are pretending not to see me. In Italy they look at you, smile and say hello! I’m gonna try that in Paris and see how it goes….!

To be continued with my observations on differences between Italians and French themselves! What about you? Tell us your personal experiences on life in France, Italy, Europe and beyond …

Some links you might enjoy:

• How to order coffee in Italy
• David Lebovitz’ favorite coffee spots in Paris
• Parisian doggies
• How to use the bidet

Written by Erica Berman for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Ralphunden

We’ll be the first to admit it: Paris is girly. It takes a strong man to admit he loves this city. But the good news is, such men exist! In fact, they’re everywhere, and they seem to be enjoying themselves. So we thought we’d dig a little deeper to find out what makes the Parisian man (or the Paris-going man) tick.

In researching this post, I polled a few of my Paris-savvy guy friends about what they love about the city, and across the board, the answer was pretty much the same: the women. Fair enough. Guys who like to gawk in a consequence-free environment would do well to position themselves at just about any café, and enjoy the show.

But if you’re traveling to Paris with your boyfriend or husband, then ogling ladies is probably not an activity you’ll want to encourage. If your man is docile and cooperative (go you!), he’ll let you drag him from store to store, from romantic park benches to cafés to the opera without complaint. But if he feels that certain stops on your agenda are a threat to his manhood, allow him to reassert himself by making the following detours.

Melanie-m, quinn.anya

CARS! If you happen to be in Paris from October 2-17, swing by the biennial Paris Motor Show (one of the auto industry’s biggest events) at Porte de Versailles and check out the latest concept cars alongside luxury models and vintage makes. Otherwise, hit the Lamborghini Paris showroom and entertain your guy’s fantasies of doing this.

GADGETS! This one’s a win-win: Head to concept store Colette. While you’re checking out the women’s fashion upstairs, your other half can play with the tech-y toys downstairs, listen to new albums and browse the super-cool sneaker selection.

MEAT! Check out our rundown of guy-friendly, meat-heavy restaurants in Paris that will sate even the manliest appetite. For a fancy apero, stop by Da Rosa where you can dig into elegant plates of Iberian and Parma ham, chorizo and specialty cheeses and wines from Spain, Italy and Portugal.

Titou.net

SPORTS! BEER! There comes a time when men need to slip off to watch “the game.” I never seem to know what game (or sport) they’re talking about, but they have a way of sussing it out, no matter where they are. For these moments, Paris is chock-full of anglophone pubs that all seem to broadcast “the game” (be it World Cup, rugby, American football or baskbetball). Take your pick: the Auld Alliance, the Moose, the Highlander, the Long Hop, and the list goes on. Warning: your significant other will inevitably meet other guys at these pubs who will tip him off to other upcoming games and places to drink beer and stare at screens and, generally, be manly.

MUSIC! Jazz is usually a gender-neutral crowd-pleaser, and luckily, Paris has a serious jazz habit that dates back to, well, the Jazz Age (the 1920s). The Caveau de la Huchette is steeped in tradition, but you can check out a more extensive list of venues here.

STYLE! If your man is a bit of a dandy, swing by the ever-elegant Charvet, which has been outfitting Paris’ best-dressed men since 1838 and is considered by many to be the best shirt-maker in the world. In addition to custom shirts, the shop is also a great place to stock up on ties, suits and fancy pajamas.

PHYSICAL EXERTION! For some reason, all my guy friends have a thing for the Arc de Triomphe. While the Eiffel Tower is for kids and novices, there’s something about ascending the Arc that feeds a man’s need for cultural conquest. Just go with it.

Melanie-m – If your boyfriend starts doing this, it might be time to give him a break and go home.

If all else fails, buy yourself some lingerie and come up with your own agenda. Try as they might to resist, Paris has a way of winning over even the manliest of men.

Related Links:

• Love locks on the Pont des Arts
• Man-sized meals in Paris
• Girl’s Guide to Paris: Romantic Paris

Written by Tory Hoen for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Thebittenword.com, Quinn.anya

As an American expat in Paris, the question I get most often is: What do you miss most about home?  Honestly, this question usually stumps me.

While, of course I miss friends, they come frequently for visits, so it’s less of an issue. In a pinch I can find a reasonable substitute for many of the readily available items from the U.S. that I might miss.  If not, said stream of friends usually keep me in a steady supply of goods and sundries that evade me here.  But, there’s one thing I can’t ask even my nearest and dearest to lug over in a suitcase: Frozen water.  Yes, you heard correctly.  The thing I miss most about the US is ice.

When I’m back home, I get a special thrill out of sitting down to a table from the grungiest of roadside diners to the fanciest of upscale eateries and immediately being served a large glass of water full of sparkly, playfully tinkling, cold-making ice!  While, in France, you’re lucky to get a small votive candle holder full of warm tap water after asking…twice.

Malias

And, this epidemic goes beyond commercial establishments into the very hearts of homes nationwide. On trips to Seattle, I play with my friends’ automatic ice makers, spewing out cube after magically chilly cube, delighted by this largesse.  In France, you’d be lucky to find a freezer containing ice trays.  You’re even luckier if they’ve been filled prior to putting them in. My least favorite are the homes that use those thin blue disposable plastic bubble-infested bags for home ice-making.  I find these about as about as effective as scrunching up a plastic sack from the grocery store, immersing it in a bowl of water and sticking it in the freezer.

Back when I was still living in the US, I had a girlfriend who had spent a few years in Paris.  She was my go-to girl for all things Euro.  I observed her foreign affectations and dreamed of the day that I, too, would be an ex-pat.  Then one evening we went for drinks.  She ordered hers with “no ice.” How very European of her!  And, suddenly I saw a possible glitch in my dreams of becoming Frenchified.  I can’t envision a life without ice.  I can’t envision a life without cocktails.  And, a proper cocktail depends on ice for it very existence!

52 Martinis

Having lived here for years now, I enjoy learning about and trying to integrate into French culture.  But, I still simply can’t understand the French aversion to ice.

A joke I heard recently::

“Why don’t the French make ice?”

“Because they can’t agree on the recipe”

After 9 years here, I still can’t get to the bottom of this deep-seated aversion. Perhaps it’s linked with their distrust of air-conditioning.

So, what’s an all American ice loving, cocktail sipping girl to do in Paris?  I’ve been known to take my love of ice to extremes and pack it in insulated bags to bring along to others’ homes and gift people with ice trays.  This evening I’m going to the home of some French friends for dinner.  They’ve asked me to make cocktails for the occasion.  Of course, I emailed them yesterday and told them to start making ice.

52 Martinis

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For those seeking Paris cocktail bars that know the value-added of a bit of solid H2O, here are a few of my favorite stops:

Prescription Cocktail Club (23 rue Mazarine, 75006) is my go-to for serious craft cocktails by knowledgeable staff in a loungey, speakeasy-reminiscent environment.  For extra ice-y fun order something that uses their large format cubes.  You’ll be hard pressed to find cocktails of this quality ringing in at such reasonable prices elsewhere.

A bit more downscale, the Andy Wahloo (69, Rue des Gravilliers 75003) doesn’t skimp on ice.  In hot summer months order something packed with the crushed ice and take a seat out back on the charming, lively terrace.  The vibe here is young and funky – especially during happy hour.

I’m a fan of pretty much everything they do at le Forvm (4 Blvd Malesherbes 75008) where their attention to detail and consideration of cocktails ensures that every drinks is made with just the right ice.  This is where I go if I’m feeling flush and craving some sophisticated sipping. Sometimes the kid in me likes to play with the large, chunky ice sticks you might get in a cocktail at the modern and upscale E7 bar (39, av de l’Opéra, 75002) at the Hotel Edouard.  Drinks here are pricey, but this little spot has become the darling of epicurean Paris socialites and offers up a selection of unusual spirits. And, of course, ice isn’t exclusively for cocktails.  I head over to Mama Shelter (109 Rue de Bagnolet 75020)  if I want a refreshing glass of cucumber infused ice water along with a stellar cocktail.  The cocktail menu changes every few months at this hip and trendy spot that makes you feel like a rock star for a pretty reasonable price.

Related Links:

• Parisien Salon on Paris’ trendy tequila-only bar, Le Blitz
• The original bloody mary from Harry’s New York Bar in Paris!
• HipParis Blog on the Curio Parlor

Written by Forest Collins for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Esellee

I was lucky enough to live in Paris earlier this year. During my time in one of the fairest cities, I soaked up the language, tossed back (a few too) many glasses of red and practically inhaled the food. I also wandered, a lot. I’m the sort of tourist who likes to explore the nooks and crannies, those precious spots that are forgotten on a map but hold a special magic beyond the typical grand Paris sites.

Oh, I did fit in the requisite amount of “grand” though. Naturellement! I was a trooper, performing my tourist duty by visiting all of the major Parisian landmarks, leaving my gasps and wishes in the same spots you likely did. I gazed at the Eiffel Tower and marveled at the views from both Sacre Coeur (très vaste) and the Centre Pompidou (très spécial). I even strolled down Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, a street speckled with bright shop windows that are filled with tiny sparkling items more valuable than my not-as-tiny house in the States.

I saw it all, hoping I blended in among the fashionable locals but knowing deep down, way deep down, that I still looked like the typical tourist – wide-eyed, a bit awestruck, mouth permanently agape, cheeks flushed from all the wine, and generally feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Supagroova,Katifisch

Alas, all that wine blushing up my skin totally gave me away. While I was living in a dream, a few unsavory locals easily spotted my tourist moves (you know, the wide-eyes, mouth agape, flushed cheeks) and attempted to weasel me with their foolish scams. I was forewarned by local friends and, fortunately, able to avoid the embarrassment. Many of my tourist brethren were not so lucky.

Luck, however, is on your side. I watched, appalled, as each tourist, high on the city of lights, repeatedly fell for scam after scam. I’m busting out the scams I discovered here so you don’t have to succumb to their same fate.

First and foremost, you must remember this key piece of information on your next stroll through central Paris: No one would sell you a real gold ring for 10 Euros. Not in Paris. Not anywhere. Not even your real grandmother would sell you a piece of 18-karat gold for 10 Euros. Just wouldn’t happen.

So when your sweet Parisian fairy godmother or godfather finds a pretty gold ring at your very feet, they’ll explain how they’re certain it belongs to you. When you insist that it isn’t, which naturally you will, they’ll start raving about how genuine the ring is and how they’ll be only too glad to sell it to you for whatever you’re willing to pay. Two words: Don’t pay. In fact, don’t bother. Just perfect a très Parisian scowl and move right on along. If they persist, shout at them, preferably in French, and, remarkably, they will vanish.

Jturn, Soumit

Now when strolling about the streets of Montmartre, especially around the gorgeousness that is Sacre Coeur, you’ll likely be on the hunt for a souvenir or two. Do me this favor. When the kindly gentlemen offer to help you mark your moment touristique with a simple string bracelet tied around your wrist, don’t accept. You may think it’s so cute and similar to the red strings worn all over Los Angeles, but after giving it away so sweetly, they’ll insist that you’ll now need to buy it, as the only way to remove it would be to cut the string (which damages the highly valuable product, I suppose). They’ll likely argue with you. It will turn into a désordre horrible. Keep in mind, these gallant men may not even ask permission; they may simply tie one on an outstretched arm. It’s just best to keep your arms to yourself and buy your souvenirs in a store.

My last sentence readily applies to this additional piece of advice I feel compelled to share. The vendors that dot the base of the Eiffel Tower are eager to move their miniature versions of the tallest building in Paris. In fact, they’ll follow you around as you gaze toward the sky, hoping to win your favor and your wallet. Here’s the tip: All of these eager salesmen likely paid just a few coins (on the Euro) for each.  When they start arguing about who has the best price and causing a general commotion to win your business, just move along. You can find the very same mini-statues in every corner shop in Paris. I hate to spoil your Parisian moment but the ones sold at the base of la dame de fer aren’t extra special.

Daniel_pfund

I’m returning to Paris soon and feel so far more prepared than before, hoping that I won’t look like the tourist that I truly am. Though I could probably live in Paris for 10 years and still look like a tourist. Well, better me than you, oui? Now you can enjoy the city of lights stress-free, while I continue to scout out scams. I’ll share more soon if you promise not to giggle when I walk down the street – wide-eyed, awestruck and, despite these little nuisances, still feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Related Links:

• Trip Advisor on ring sellers
• Virtual Tourist’s top Paris tourist traps
• How to look like a tourist in 5 easy steps

Written by Maggie Battista for the Hip Paris Blog. For our amazing rentals in Paris, Provence & Tuscany check out our website Haven in Paris.

Rosa Jackson’s vegetarian son Sam in Zen restaurant

A few months ago, my son Sam declared himself a vegetarian. Now, if we lived in California this might not sound unusual, but this is France, proud land of steak-frites and saucisson, andouillette and tête de veau. What made his decision even more surprising is that both of his parents are meat-eaters. If much of my cooking relies on fresh vegetables from the market, I also can’t deny having a passion for steak tartare.

At first I wasn’t sure how to react. He had been making noises about becoming vegetarian ever since watching a cooking show on the television channel Arte in which a group of 12 to 14 year-olds visited a rabbit farm to see where meat came from. Picture the poor bunnies dangling from hooks, then cut to the skinned rabbits a few seconds later, ready to be chopped up for lapin à la moutarde. Who could really blame Sam?

For two years (he saw the show when he was five) I persuaded him that eating a little meat and fish is not a bad thing if you choose it carefully. But, as he got older, he became convinced that anything with a heart and a brain shouldn’t die in order to feed him. When he started to categorically refuse meat and fish, I decided not to fight it.

Rosa Jackson’s Stuffed Tofu – Tien Hang

I quickly discovered, though, that becoming vegetarian in France isn’t so simple. First, there was the school’s reaction. The teacher and canteen supervisors came to me saying, “Is he serious?” When I assured them that he was, they frowned and shook their heads. In France, school canteens operate on the principle that every child should eat everything, or at least try everything, unless they have a religious or health reason not to. The upside of this is that France is a nation of unfussy eaters. The downside is that la différence is not welcomed.

I went to see the économe, the woman in charge of collecting money for the canteen, and explained the “problem.” She gave me a sympathetic yet puzzled look.

“Vegetarianism is not a recognized diet in France,” she said. “We’ll have to put everything on the plate even if he doesn’t eat it.”

Thus, my son who doesn’t want to animals to die for his sake still gets served meat or fish every day at school, and has to eat around it.

As any vegetarian who has travelled to France knows, eating in restaurants is also a challenge. Fortunately, I live in Nice where the Italian influence means that gnocchi and fresh pasta with pistou or tomato sauce are nearly always on the menu. Nice also has one of the best vegetarian restaurants in France, La Zucca Magica, where children under 12 eat for free. Paris bistros are a bit more problematic, but since Sam is not fussy in other ways he will settle for almost anything that doesn’t contain animal protein (as long as goat cheese is not involved). He is also thrilled to eat miso soup and vegetable maki at my favorite Japanese restaurant, Zen.

Last night, as we were meeting a friend who has also gone off meat (or at least non-organic meat) after reading Eating Animals, I decided to see if we could find a good vegetarian restaurant in Paris. There are a lot more options for vegetarians these days thanks to places like Rose Bakery, Bob’s Juice Bar and Cococook, which serve Anglo-style salads, soups and sandwiches, but I was curious to try a restaurant with strict vegetarian principles. For once, I thought it would be nice if Sam could order anything on the menu without having to adapt to a meat-eating world.

Rosa’s Papaya Salad – Tien Hang

A little research on vegetarian websites led me to Tien Hiang, a Chinese Buddhist restaurant with two locations in Paris. The newest branch, not far from the Canal St-Martin, is open for the month of August when most Paris restaurants close for holidays. Though I was a little nervous about taking my friends to such a plain-looking restaurant, I made a booking for the four of us.

The first surprise was the dining room, which although simple was clean and pleasant, animated by the chatter of the French and Asian diners around us. We were handed thick menus listing an extensive selection of dishes, many of them made with “pork,” “beef,” “chicken” or “duck.” As the menu explained, this was not real meat but soy protein designed to imitate meat. A lot of people might argue with the assumption that vegetarians crave the look and feel of meat on their plates, but Sam seemed quite excited at the prospect of eating “chicken.”

Tempted by nearly everything on the menu, I ordered the green papaya salad, mini Imperial rolls, tofu stuffed with “minced beef” and  sticky rice, while Sam went for the vegetable maki roll and the “chicken” sautéed with onions. The papaya salad was suprisingly spicy, with extra flavor coming from strips of lemon zest. Almost overwhelming on its own, it worked well in combination with blander dishes such as the steamed ravioli. The fried Imperial rolls had a stuffing made of taro root, soy vermicelli, black mushrooms and carrot, with a meaty texture that I could have mistaken for pork.

My biggest success, though, was the stuffed tofu, which arrived bubbling dramatically in its little clay pot. A difficult dish to make, with a filling of “minced meat,” bamboo shoots, mushrooms and cilantro, it cost €8 and was so deeply flavored that I found myself lapping up all the sauce with my sticky rice. Sam was equally happy with his chicken, whose texture he found amazingly like the real thing. Less of a hit was Erica’s bun bi (similar to bo bun, a Vietnamese dish of rice vermicelli with vegetables, meat and fried spring rolls), which lacked the tangy fish sauce that normally gives this dish its character.

Mini Imperial Rolls – Tien Hang

Desserts are of the sort normally found in Paris Asian restaurant: coconut balls, bananas in coconut milk, litchis in syrup, ice cream. Sam tried one of the more original desserts, a banana coated in sticky rice and steamed in a banana leaf, but handed it over after one spoonful. Drinks are more original, with a selection of organic non-alcoholic beers and slighly fermented juices (there is also Tsing Tao if you’re craving the real thing).

I’m happy to have found a place that I can wholeheartedly recommend to vegetarians in Paris, even if I would also warn them that it probably takes a bit of time to discover the best dishes on the long menu. This very satisfying meal cost just €18 per person with drinks.

As for people who ask me whether I’m afraid Sam will be malnourished, I say: he eats eggs, cheese, milk, tofu, chickpeas, lentils, seaweed, whole grains and nearly every fruit and vegetable known to man. Will he be more poorly nourished than a child who subsists on hamburgers and pizza?

Tien Hiang, 14 rue Bichat, 10th, 01.42.00.08.23 and 92 rue du Chemin Vert, 11th, 01.43.55.83.88.

• Fourth Floor Walk up – great list of Paris vegetarian restos
• The Happy Cow: Extensive list of veggie restos in Paris
• David Lebovitz talks Paris vegetarian restaurants
• David Lebovitz has many tips on being a non-meat eater in the city of lights.
• Vegan in Paris – lots of great info for vegans in Paris
• Eating Animals - Jonathan Safran Foer’s eye opening book & website
• No Impact Man – How to live a green, sustainable, environmental life to help save the planet by reducing pollution & global warming

Written by Rosa Jackson. Read Rosa’s original post here. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.