I woke up early with a nervous curiosity. I was about to have my hair colored by someone new for the first time in more than five years. After living in Paris for close to a year now, I have been extremely lucky that this moment did not happen months ago. My longtime hair colorist, Aura Friedman, travels to Paris for Fashion Week with Serge Normant and had been wonderful enough to color my hair in her downtime in her hotel bathroom between shows. This season, however, she was needed in Los Angeles, so I was forced to put my hair in the hands of someone new.

There are not many people I trust more than my hair colorist. My Norwegian roots make it impossible for me to dye my hair completely black, something I have desired since I was a teenager listening to heavy metal music in my bedroom. After several years of tinkering, Aura and I found the perfect mix of dark brown and red, or what my boyfriend so lovingly calls purple, to give my hair the edgy dark appeal that I desired without making me look like I just walked off of the Twilight set.

Armed with the knowledge that I would require a particularly deft colorist to match my shade, I quickly went to work asking friends for recommendations. My first shock was that hardly anyone I knew in Paris actually dyed their hair. For someone who started seeing the occasional white hair at 23, I was both envious and slightly flabbergasted. Thankfully my friend Natasha, with her razor-cut, cherry red locks, had a colorist recommendation to share: the Living Room salon.

Located directly off rue de la Roquette in the trendy Bastille district, the salon-slash-art-gallery is also steps away from the bars I frequent, where I could presumably go to drown my sorrows if the appointment turned awry. After trolling through the website’s image gallery of adventurously groomed clients alongside iconic shots of Kate Moss, I was sold.

The first thing that surprised me about the process was how easy it was to make an appointment. I called on a Wednesday and had an appointment for the following Monday. My call was answered by the owner, Matt, who after perfecting his dry cut style in London for six years, was quick to help me in English with the hair vocabulary my French has not yet mastered.

When I arrived for my appointment I was greeted by my colorist, Benedicte, who took my coat as I took in the decor. With a cubed electric fireplace on the mantel, a vintage foosball table set underneath graffiti wall art, and two glass cases filled with everything from old bowling pins and Japanese cartoon characters to old radio sets, it took me a moment to remember that I was getting my hair colored and not having a drink at a friend’s apartment.

I was seated in one of the four black leather chairs where I showed Benedicte a picture of what my hair looked like just after my last coloring. 70′s hip hop music played in the background as she produced a book of shades so that we could verify the exact color I wanted before getting to work on my mix. She labored over her concoction right next to me, and once she was done I nervously realized that the final outcome was blonde in color. Blonde? I thought we had a deal here!

After crossing all my limbs that there was nothing lost in translation, she quickly painted the color onto my roots and worked her way down, leaving just the ends of my long hair dry. After about 20 minutes, I was led to the sink where the rest of the color was pulled through and my hair was washed and conditioned. Benedicte then dried my hair herself, finishing it in French fashion by letting the bulk of it dry naturally. She escorted me with a mirror to the front door so I could check on the final result in full daylight.

There was no blonde in sight. She had nailed it.

I walked over to the check-out desk with a genuine smile on my face. The entire process took a total of one hour and 15 minutes and cost 75 euros, with an additional 10 euro tip for Benedicte. I was relieved that someone other than my Aura could now be trusted with my hair, and thrilled to find a quirky salon that understood the edgy look I was going for.

Besides missing the vintage dresses and companionship of Aura, the only other thing I would have liked would have been a nice finishing gloss to make my color a bit shinier – but I’ll just remember to ask for that next time. I look forward to revisiting the wooden panels of the Living Room in another three months and even plan to add a cut for 45 euros as well.

Living Room: 22, rue des Taillandiers 75011 Paris, France. Telephone: 01 43 55 66 81
Closed: Saturday and Sunday all day Metro: Bastille

Written by Nicole Smith for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Didier Gauducheau, photographe, www.didiergauducheau.com, 06 03 54 39 73. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

I’ll never forget the first time I was “perfumed” in Paris. After spritzing and sniffing numerous scents at a parfumerie in the Marais, I settled on L’Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake, a citrusy floral just right for warmer weather. The chic saleswoman held the tester aloft angled in my direction. “Je vous parfume, mademoiselle?” she asked, dousing me head to toe in a scented shower of Issey.

Snailsareslimy

Not since have I worn quite so much scent but will admit to feeling quite glam that afternoon as I trailed its sweet essence through the streets of Paris. It was an early lesson in the seductive power of fragrance.

That was more than ten years ago and I’ve tried many perfumes since. While I love the idea of a signature scent, I can’t seem to commit to just one. With so much wonderful choice and temptation, why settle? But whether true to one fragrance or scent schizophrenics like me, French women are united in a deep devotion to perfume.

Simon

The average French person spends 40€ per year on it, more than anywhere else in the world. Like fine lingerie, fragrance is deeply embedded in the French style psyche – both for its sensuality and evocative powers. Icons of French style perpetuate the mystique.

Catherine Deneuve – a great lover of perfume and muse to renowned perfumers Francis Kurkdjian and Frederic Malle – claims to vary her scent for different roles. Her enduring favorite? The classic, l’Heure Bleue by Guerlain. As for men’s fragrance, she has said that she once loved a man who wore Dior’s Eau Sauvage; she finds it intolerable on anyone else.

Idhren

For those looking to add scent to their seduction arsenal à la Parisienne, here’s our look at some enduring favorites as well as tantalizing modern French scents.

Les Best Sellers. It’s a rare day in Paris that I don’t get a waft of Angel, Thierry Mugler’s enormously popular signature essence. It’s so big in Paris that perfumeries carry shiny tanks of the stuff for easy refills. Dior reigned supreme in 2011 with two of the year’s three top sellers: J’Adore, described as “the essence of absolute femininity” on their website, and Miss Dior Cherie with ads featuring the ubiquitous image of a sweetly seductive Natalie Portman.

Morku

Les Classics. Few scents are as emblematic of France – indeed of perfume itself – as Chanel’s original N°5, the scent worn by “Mademoiselle” herself. It’s the world’s top selling scent, continuously in production since being selected by Coco (the fifth scent presented to her by perfumer Ernest Beaux) in 1921. The house of Guerlain refreshed its signature Shalimar in 2011 with the release of Shalimar Parfum Initial, a temptingly luxe floral in a similarly iconic bottle (even if the intentionally girly jus is pink.) Hermès continues to tempt with new offerings such a Un Jardin sur le Nil, part of its “un jardin” series by master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena (like wet flowers after the rain!). The series complements Hermès mainstays, Calèche and the delicious white floral opulence of 24 Faubourg.

One and Only Paris Photography

Les Artistes. For French perfumers such as Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle and Annick Goutal (run by Annick’s daughter Camille since her death in 1999), the concept of perfume as art is alive and well. Although their brands are global, they have retained their allure as niche – and deeply French – perfume houses that remain true to traditional methods of creation and production. Relying on natural flower essences and the expertise of a master scent creator or “nose,” these perfumers describe their work as creative, artistic and inspired by memory and romance.

Ask a French woman about her scent and you’re likely to hear a passionate story. She will tell you that her scent is deeply personal and even offer tantalizing tips on how to wear it. Behind the knees, between the breasts and on the neck, bien sur. Unsure where to apply yours? As Coco Chanel said, “wherever you wish to be kissed.”

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Last spring, every food-following Parisian had their sights set on one restaurant: Rino. After it opened in February 2010, chef Giovanni Passerini’s cozy, modern bistro quickly became the place for innovative, market-driven fare at reasonable prices. At the time, nearly every review was favorable (if not positively glowing); a year later, we stopped in for lunch to see whether Rino has lived up to the hype.

The restaurant is tucked away on a fairly unsexy street in the 11th, and offers clean and unfussy décor, suggesting that here, the focus has always been on the food. As soon as we entered, we noticed a team of busy line chefs, chopping and arranging dishes in a small open kitchen.

In the tradition of Le Chateaubriand, Le Chapeau Melon, and Les Papilles, Rino offers a set menu (with little-to-no choice) that changes daily based on available ingredients and the whims of the chef. Luckily, Passerini’s impressive training (he previously worked at Arpège, Le Chateaubriand, and La Gazzetta)and innovative instincts mean that culinary missteps are rare—he has an innate sense for how to make seasonal produce shine in dishes that draw on tradition but play up surprises.

We opted for the 3-course menu at 28€ (you can skip dessert for just 23€, but who would do that?) accompanied by glasses of Chenin (6€ each), whose golden color and strong honey taste provided the perfect counterpoint for all the dishes we tried. This may not sound like a feat in France, but given the range of ingredients we would soon consume—at least three of which I had never before encountered—the overall experience was remarkably harmonious, as far as my palate was concerned.

To begin, we were presented with what looked like a dense forest of greens: hulking pieces of asparagus were topped by a tangle of nettles, wild herbs, actual flowers, and what I initially thought was octopus but turned out to be bulots (whelks). In case we weren’t already aware, an artful smear of mustardy vinaigrette across the plate sent a clear message: this food has vision. In addition to pleasing the eye, it was also a pleasure to eat, the balance of textures and flavors providing intrigue with every bite.

The arrival of the plats caused a moment of slight panic for my lunch partner. His tagliatelle with lamb ragout was instantly enticing but strangely tiny in size. When he dug in, however, the dense noodles and deep egg-y flavor (paired with a basket of bitter brown bread) managed to sate him. Meanwhile, my cabillaud, generously adorned with swiss chard, leeks and olive tapenade, was ample in proportion and perfectly cooked and seasoned.

Dessert was a decadent-but-light baba au rhum accompanied by citrus fruits and a frothy ricotta foam. The baba exploded like a booze bomb when I pressed my fork into it, and the creamy-citrusy blend of the other ingredients combined to form a serious flavor sensation.

As is the sign of a good modern French meal, we left feeling happy-but-healthy, energized rather than weighed down by the mini-feast we’d just inhaled. Which is to say, you could certainly justify coming here on a weekly basis if you were so inclined. All in all, Rino is still going strong a year after making its initial splash, and better yet, you can actually get a reservation nowadays! I can’t wait to try Passerini’s more expansive dinner menu (38€ for four courses or 55€ for six) to see what other smile-inducing ingredients and wacky combinations he’ll throw my way.

Rino: 46 rue Trousseau, 11ème. 01 48 06 95 85; rino-restaurant.com. Open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Open for lunch on Friday and Saturday only.

Related links:

• Five great substitutes for Frenchie (Rino is one of them) from Paris by Mouth
• Tired of dining out? Check out Lucy’s Kitchen Notebook for fabulous home cooked French food recipes
• Dorie Greenspan reminisces about Paris and shares some foodie favorites

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Didier Gauducheau, photographe, www.didiergauducheau.com, 06 03 54 39 73. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Street art Paris - Annewil Stroo

La Bouffe

May 4 & 12: Veillées Foodstock 2012 includes two nights of all things we love: art, poetry, music, whiskey and ice cream. It may be a bit of a trip (held at the Contemporary Art Museum in Vitry-sur-Seine) but with those offerings plus the backing of Le Fooding, how could you say no? 

Now Open: Yannick Alleno of Le Meurice has opened Terroir Parisien, which boasts dishes made from ingredients from Ile de France.  An additional perk? It’s open every day, so feel free to pop in for Sunday dinner. Terroir Parisien, 24, rue rue St-Victor, 5e, 01.44.31.54.54

Now Open: Restaurateurs Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré continue to expand with their new resto Semilla, offering fresh and contemporary French dishes from an open kitchen. Note: these are the guys behind Cosi, Fish and La Dernière Goutte. Semilla, 54 rue de Seine, 6e, 01.43.54.34.50

© Antanas Sutkus

L’Art

May 19: The 8th annual Nuit Européenne des Musées – or European Museums Night – boasts more than 160 events in museums big and small, and many have free entry. You can view a list of all participating museums and their offerings here.

Through May 19: The current exhibition at the Russian Tea Room Gallery is Amours Libres, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier/Antanas Sutkus. Sutkus is a Lithuanian photographer who shot moving black and white images of the impoverished people of his country, while Charbonnier focused on everyday moments of Parisian life. 

Through June 15: On view at Fondation Dina-Vierny – Musée Maillol: Artemisia – Pouvoir, Gloire et Passions d’une femme peintre. A feminist rule-breaker in 17^th century Italy, this daughter of famed painter Orazio Gentileschi harnessed her creative drive and has since been considered one of the best painters of her time.

Robert Crumb

Through August: If you’ll be in Paris with your little ones, be sure to see the Babar exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs. The show details the multiple creators of the world’s favorite pachyderm and includes games, drawings and a series of 3D animations sure to entertain.

Through June 23: The Maison de la Culture du Japon à Paris celebrates its 15^th anniversary with the exhibition Humour, parodie et vidéos: Créations vidéo du Japon contemporain. Images and video all centered around the theme of “laughter,” this show can’t help but put you in a good mood. 

Through August 19: The Musée d’Art Moderne is currently showing Crumb: De l’Underground à la Genèse. This show is the first French retrospective of famed American cartoonist Robert Crumb.  R. Crumb is known for his satirical portrayal of American life, but this exhibition spans his work from early underground drawings to the publication of his graphic novel The Book of Genesis.

Foster the People

La Musique

May 4: Paris Classik, a classical orchestra, will be performing at the Eglise Saint Germain des Prés, the oldest church in Paris. The combination of the popular instrumentals and the historical significance of the location make this an event not to miss.

May 4-5: Indie darlings Foster the People perform at Le Bataclan this weekend. The trio’s feel-good indie pop-rock is sure to put a smile on any sour Parisian face.

May 9: Coeur de Pirate, led by Québécoise singer-songwriter Béatrice Martin, will perform at at Zénith de Paris. The group has had great success beyond Canada, getting recognition on Good Morning America and being nominated for Juno Award’s Francophone Album of the Year.

Charlotte Gainsbourg (Nederlands UITburo)

May 12-13: Radio France’s Des week-ends de musique presents Paris-Japon, a representation of the Eastern music that has long influenced that of the west. The weekend is comprised of five concerts covering works from ten Japanese composers.

May 20-June 3: The Saint Germain-des-Pres Jazz Festival is a dream for any syncopation-loving listener. It brings jazz musicians from around the globe together for numerous concerts at Paris’s best venues.  And what better appropriate neighborhood to host it?

May 21: French sweetheart and singer-actress Charlotte Gainsbourg will perform at La Cigalle. Though Charlotte comes from a musically-endowed family, her albums certainly have their own merit – a winning combo.

May 29: British award winner Elvis Costello will perform with The Imposters at L’Olympia. Costello has won a Grammy, is a member of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and is a veteran on the music scene.

Les Puces du Design (Zemoko)

Misc

May 10: For a vintage focused shopping event, head to the 26^th Puces du Design at Bercy Village. Over 100 antique dealers specializing in fashion and art from the 1950s-80s will be present for your browsing pleasure.

May 11-14: Les Portes Ouvertes: The artists of Belleville open the doors to their ateliers and give the curious a unique opportunity to explore their creative spaces. There is also official programming throughout the weekend including concerts, performances and more.  

May 13: Entry to the Children’s Festival at the Jacquemart-Andre Museum is free  to anyone under 17 years old, making this the perfect time to explore the museum’s permanent collections, take in the Pharaoh exhibition and participate in creative workshops throughout the day. Don’t miss the chocolate fountain and a collective balloon release in the evening!

May 27-June 10: If you’ll be in Paris at the end of the month, hurry and get your tickets to the French Open, the mythical tennis event that is over a century old.

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Yes, more chocolate! Paris does not lack for it. But in a town that boasts everything from over-the-top delicacies to perfectly executed classics, we’re always impressed when a shop manages to distinguish itself from the cacao-hawking competition.

Puerto Cacao is not the most decadent, shocking or renowned chocolate shop in Paris, but it might just be the most conscientious. On a recent visit, we sat down with store manager José Evrard to learn more about owner Guillaume Hermitte’s vision for an équitable (fair-trade) chocolate shop that does as much to promote social good as it does to promote deliciousness.

Amazing hot chocolate! Tory Hoen

Hermitte’s team works directly with Venezuelan cacao producers, cutting out unnecessary middlemen who might drive up prices for consumers and deprive cacao producers of fair payment. In addition, they work with “entreprises d’insertion,” organizations that help people who have encountered various difficulties (poverty, imprisonment, etc.) re-enter the workforce and improve their lives.

So if you had any doubts, the mission is sound. But let’s get down to business—what about the chocolate?

Julien Hausherr

The store is stocked with classics like chocolate bars in a variety of flavors (like white chocolate with a sprinkling of pink pepper, milk chocolate with cashews), elegant pastilles, eight kinds of chocolate bark (we were intrigued by the milk chocolate with sesame seeds), an ever-flowing fondue fountain, and some crazy chocolate masks that you can decorate with edible paint. If yours turns out to be less than a masterpiece, you can just eat it and call it a day.

Julien Hausherr

After browsing the goods, I started sampling. Of course, I had to try the chocolat chaud. Here, it’s made with rich organic milk, 100% pâte de cacao, a splash of vanilla and a hint of organic sugar. The overall effect is decidedly grown-up. I could see a sugar-seeking child being disappointed by the bitter finish, but for an aspiring adult like me, this interpretation provided a not-too-cloying way to appreciate a mugful of liquid chocolate.

Julien Hausherr

More moderate folks might have stopped there, but I persevered, digging into a slice of the fresh-baked fondant au chocolat, which was perhaps the richest version I’ve ever encountered. The oils from the cacao were literally oozing out of the deep, chocolate slice, and as I washed it down with the chocolat chaud, I suddenly understood the meaning of true gluttony. And it felt good… for a minute. A paralyzing chocolate coma ensued.

Julien Hausherr

Regardless, this socially conscious shop (located just across from the Marché d’Aligre) is well worth a stop. In addition to decadent desserts, Puerto Cacao also offers 4 different weekend brunch menus featuring homemade jams, chocolate spreads, organic bread, and savory tarts. They are also happy to host bachelorette parties in which brides-to-be can gather their friends around the fondue fountain to kiss their singledom goodbye. Bittersweet to say the least.

Puerto Cacao, 2, rue Théophile Roussel 75012 Paris Tel: 01 43 47 58 60   

Related links:

• David Lebovitz makes a mouth watering chocolate hazelnut spread.
• Lindsey Tramuta writes a review about Télescope a fab new coffee joint by Palais Royal in Paris.
• Do it in Paris also likes Puerto Cacao

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Photos by Julien Hausherr; Contact: julienhausherr@hotmail.fr. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Didier Gauducheau

Just a few steps from one of Paris’s least charming spots (Les Halles) has suddenly appeared one of its most charming. Le Ballroom du Beef Club, the month-old clandestine cocktail den from the team behind the popular hideaways Experimental Cocktail Club, Curio Parlor and Prescription Cocktail Club, leaves no doubt that Paris has arrived as a serious mixology destination. In the space of just a few years, the scene here has evolved from an experimental “cult” to a full-blown cocktail culture—largely thanks to Olivier Bon, Pierre-Charles Cros, and Romée de Goriainoff, the handsome young triumvirate behind the quickly expanding Experimental empire (they have a spot in London and will open their first New York outpost later this month).

Didier Gauducheau

This time around, the team has upped the ante. Upstairs, The Beef Club is a stylish steak house (we can’t wait to settle into one of those mid-century modern chairs for a night of carnivorous hedonism), and downstairs, the cavernous Ballroom du Beef Club offers a sensationally sexy setting where you can slip in for an after-work drink or linger into the wee hours of the night.

Didier Gauducheau

By 9pm on a Wednesday, multiple groups had already discreetly tucked themselves into the bar’s various dark nooks, and at around 10pm each night, the bar’s second lounge space opens to accommodate the larger late-night crowd.

Didier Gauducheau

But in addition to providing a place where many a make-out session will inevitably go down, this is a sophisticated spot where both cocktail connoisseurs and the uninitiated can come to experience the work of skilled bartenders, who can improvise based on a client’s tastes and curiosities.

Experimental Cocktail Group

When we went, we sat at the bar and observed veteran mixologist Inko, whose roguish charm is trumped only by his skill behind the bar (he previously worked at Experimental Cocktail Club China Town in London). His first trick was an off-menu concoction called “Le Temps de Cerises” that he had learned from a former ECC colleague. (It’s this institutional knowledge that has set apart the Experimental bars over the years—members of the team often work at more than one spot, sharing recipes and continually taking the art of cocktails to the next sublime level). A combination of sherry, Peychaud’s bitters, cognac, grapefruit juice, and house-made almond syrup, this drink was smooth and refined, with a perfect balance of flavors and a subtle snap of citrus.

Experimental Cocktail Group

We were also intrigued by the Ballroom’s modern twists on classic cocktails. The julep contained 12-year-old El Dorado rum, Amaro liqueur and fresh mint, and it was a bit bolder than a typical bourbon-based julep—dry rather than sweet, with a bitter finish and strong hit of mint. The Pondicherry Mule seamlessly blended cardamom-infused vodka, Angostura bitters, ginger beer and lime juice, topped off star anise.

Didier Gauducheau

During our visit, co-founder Olivier Bon stopped by the bar, where Inko offered him a strawful of whatever he was concocting, like a mother bird feeding its young—assuming its young has a penchant for booze. Olivier explained that he and his partners have always tried to create havens where cocktail-cravers can enjoy sophisticated drinks in cool-but-relaxed settings, where service is friendly and the vibe is open and international.

He’s certainly achieved his goal with the Ballroom du Beef Club, and as soon as we save up a few more centimes (cocktails are 12-15€ a pop) we will definitely be back for more.

The Beef Club: 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001. Tel: 09 52 52 89 34. Open Monday-Saturday, 7pm-2pm (sometimes later).

Related Links:

• Check out TMagazine’s review of the Beef Club here
• Alex Lobrano stirs up a little controversy with his review
• For more from these cocktails gurus, check out  Curio Parlor or the Prescription Cocktail Club

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Didier Gauducheau, photographe, 06 03 54 39 73. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

One and Only Paris Photography

Most brides obsess over something. Will the flowers look right? Will my dress fit after the alterations? Will the DJ play YMCA (even though I begged him not to)? Will Dad’s wife get smashed and ruin the reception?

And then there’s the mother of all bridal worries — the one none of us can control and yet endlessly fret over: the weather.

One and Only Paris Photography

We planned our wedding at a French chateau in May knowing full well that the weather could not be counted on – not in May or any other time of year. (This is France, after all). And so, with a million and one concerns filling my bride-addled brain, I focused on rain. Will it or won’t it? And what will we do if?

One and Only Paris Photography

Despite my obsession, there was no time to lose: A hundred plus guests were descending on Paris from locales as far flung as San Francisco and Sarajevo. Everything had to be perfect and I had to oversee it all. I’d spent my first year here planning every last detail. If I could just get everyone from Paris down to the chateau in Burgundy, surely the festivities would all come off without a hitch?

One and Only Paris Photography

La Degustation. Some of our guests had never been to France, let alone sipped perfectly aged Burgundy in the stone-walled cave of a 16th century castle. So the chateau owner (a bonhomme extraordinaire), offered us something special: to host a candlelit wine tasting before our rehearsal dinner, the perfect way to get newly arrived friends in the spirit of events to come. Sublime!

Flower Factor & Pygment_shots

Les Fleurs. Little about planning our wedding followed the traditional formula but there were some aspects that had to be right. So when the chateau florist turned out to be the woman who lived next door and grew her blooms in her own garden, I felt a tad uneasy. After hours scouring magazines and forwarding endless images of blossoming bouquets, she proceeded to ignore me and do what the French do best: Create something beautiful. When I laid eyes upon her perfect peonies and ravishing roses, I realized I’d had nothing to fear.

Idhren

Le Coiffeur et le Maquillage. An up do or natural(ish) waves? Professional make-up or DIY? I decided – perhaps unwisely – to go with the Parisian pros, who favored shall we say, a somewhat theatrical wedding look. With my hair swept into a gravity-defying chignon, I sat down for make-up grasping a glass of champagne and what little remained of my frayed nerves. When my best friend shot me a look of horror halfway through the session, I knew it was time to scrub my mug and start fresh. With two sisters and a bevy of bridesmaids on-hand, we managed to salvage my face in time for the wedding bells.

One and Only Paris Photography

Le Mariage: A hundred buttons fastened and trailing veil in hand, I descended the chateau steps to my awaiting carriage, complete with white horse and top hatted driver. Our ceremony was held next to the chateau, in the village’s ancient church complete with worn wooden pews, stained glass windows and the scent of spring blooms and dusty Gallic history. As my dad took my arm and escorted me past dozens of beloved faces, my French wedding fantasies fell away in favor of a moment that was simply perfect.

One and Only Paris Photography

The celebration that followed in the chateau’s grand salon carried on into the small hours. We dined on foie gras and blanquette de veau, sipped champagne and swilled cases of Burgundy. Of course, not everything went exactly as planned. The DJ did play YMCA (flashing me a wink as he threw his arms toward the vaulted ceiling). And Dad’s wife? Well, that’s another story.

One and Only Paris Photography

Our night ended with a blazing bonfire on the grass and elegantly dressed guests coupled under the stars. For both bride and groom, a magical night in the French countryside — with nary a cloud or raindrop in sight.

• Are you planning a wedding in Paris? We recommend…
• Parisian Events and Rendez-Vous in Paris to help you plan
• … and One & Only Paris Photography to help you capture the wonderful moments

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Many associate French working life with 35-hour weeks, strikes, long long lunch breaks and even longer holidays. This is certainly the image that I’d carefully conjured in my idealistic head before setting foot in France.

The big question: does reality live up to this delightful worker-friendly dream?

Well, I can confirm that the 35-hour week does exist (at least for a privileged minority), strikes do take place on a not-infrequent basis, lunch breaks remain sacred, and holidays are considered to be an untouchable national right (right up there alongside liberté, egalité, fraternité).

However, beneath the shiny and appealing veneer, day-to-day work has its fair share of up and downs.

Carin Olsson

Lunch breaks

This has to be one of the things I love most about France. Lunch breaks not only exist, they play a pivotal role in daily life (forget a hastily gobbled sandwich in front of the computer). Lunches are never skipped even with important deadlines looming. I’ve spent many pleasant hours with my colleagues nibbling sushi, wolfing down pizza and crunching crusty baguettes.

Plenty of time for lunch in France - Carin Olsson

The 35-hour week

This is indeed the daily lot of civil servants who enjoy privileged working conditions. However, for those in the private sector, days can start early and end well into the night. Some of these extra hours transform into extra holiday, but many more are lost en route. I’ve certainly never been forced to leave the office on the dot at 6!

Work! - Carin Olsson

Strikes

Yes, French people do take to the street with remarkable ease and love nothing more than a noisy protest (manif for those in know). This whole striking business is above all the specialty of those working for the RATP – yes, the very people entrusted to manage the capital’s transport system like to create a little chaos every now and then. General attitudes are changing though. Gone are the glory days of Mai 68 when the entire population rallied whole-heartedly behind the oppressed workers. These days you’re more likely to hear Parisians grumbling about how to find childcare when the teachers go on strike or how to get to work when the metro system is paralyzed.

Demonstrations and protests part of daily life in France – Lemarakk

Holidays

Holidays are a very serious matter. As a bare minimum, French people enjoy five lazy weeks of non-work each and every year. Add to this national holidays (Christmas, Easter, Bastille Day and so forth) and RTT (days off accumulated through overtime, see above) and you’re looking at a rather holiday-heavy year. Many Parisians leave the city for the month of August, heading south to the sun and sea. Incidentally, this is the perfect time to visit a less crowded, more chilled-out Paris.

I have loved making the most of the advantages of working in Paris (I’m not one to say to no to lots of holiday) and learning to appreciate the particularities (taking part in a protest is next on my to-do list).  The work-life balance is very, well, balanced – thank goodness, otherwise there wouldn’t be time to try out all the amazing food, wine and exhibitions.

Month long vacations in France? C’est normal! – Pmorgan

Related Links:

• Lindsey Tramuta has a great post on work culture in France
• David Lebovitz starts his wish-list for Paris food trucks, the perfect lunch hour solution?
• Here are also some great tips on navigating the French workplace

Written by Victoria Wall for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When we decided to move to France, one of the biggest decisions was where to send our kids to school. International bilingual? (Too expensive.) Private Catholic? (Too Catholic.) American Montessori? (Too American.) Public French school? (Perhaps too…French?)

We opted for total immersion in our neighborhood maternelle, the French equivalent of preschool + K. And so our adventure in French schools began. What we’ve found has been a cultural education in itself, surprising, occasionally maddening and enlightening all at once.

Boston Public Library; Eliza Dudnikova

School is free. For Americans and Brits accustomed to shelling out thousands for private education, this was a most welcome change. No more paying $800 per month for our three-year-old to attend morning preschool. No more monthly kindergarten fee (even at the local public school). School was free! It was hard to imagine.

The Napoleonic dream. The French system is indeed rigid, disciplinarian and devoted to the teaching method envisioned by Napoleon. Kids are not so much taught as trained – to absorb information by memorization and dictation with an eye toward shaping little French citizens. Where was the individuality? Creative problem solving? These were American constructs with no place in a system with only two answers: right or wrong. Hmm.

Karen Booth; Carams

Le Menu de la Semaine The state-sponsored lunch service (“la cantine“) surprised and delighted us with its weekly menus rivaling a Michelin-starred restaurant. A sample daily menu, including four courses, might include:

Salade de pomme de terre/tomates
Escalope de poulet à la crème
Duo carottes / salsifis
Yaourt aromatisé Poire
Pain / fromage Jus de pomme

At least one day per week is strictly bio (organic). And no menu is complete without the daily “suggestion du soir,” the recommended dinner selection to prepare at home to complement that day’s dejeuner. The scene at the cantine is something to behold: Groups of preschoolers sit at small round tables, their place settings complete with porcelain plates, bowls and glasses. They spend no less than 45 minutes a day a table. Just like the States, non?

Carams; Anabel Fernandez de la Rosa

Becoming bilingual. From day one, our kids’ American-ness made them curiosities, especially my son who had no trouble initiating play that rendered verbal communication superfluous. Chasing, growling and wrestling required little more than a grin and before long, he was greeted each morning by excited shrieks of, “Cole! Attrapes-nous!” (Catch us!)

Simple skills and phrases came quickly, like “ca c’est a moi,” (that’s mine) and Cole’s personal favorite, “A L’ATTAQUE!” (Attack!), which he would yell while brandishing a styrofoam sword, careening down the halls of our apartment.

A year later, both kids are nearly bilingual and speak French with no trace of an American accent. Although we speak English at home, they often play and interact in French, something that has taken me quite by surprise. They come home with new French songs and playground taunts and even know some French words they haven’t yet learned in English. I realize that not only are they becoming bilingual; they are actually becoming culturally French. They may even someday need tutoring in their native tongue.

Roger G1; Carams

French or folly? Some of it strikes me as plain silly. On days the kids have gym, for example, parents are told to send along a change of clothes, “since you wouldn’t want your children wearing gym clothes all day.” My son was once forced to sit on the sidelines because his pants (cotton chinos) were deemed inappropriate for sport. The school’s extracurricular activities are different, too: English, Chess, Mime. Really.

Yet they’ve taken several field trips that have been world-class: The Pompidou Center; Musee Bourdelle (including a visit to the on-site atelier where the kids created their own sculptures); and a nearby school for the deaf where students were introduced to learning for special needs. These strike me as profoundly Parisian and enriching in a way that no education they’d get at home could be.

Despite it all, I still worry. How will their creativity, individuality and spontaneity thrive in a system that prizes conformity and competition? Will they retain what’s best about the U.S.  – its optimism, energy and entrepreneurial spirit – as they become day-by-day des petits francais? But then my son brings home his poetry notebook and recites something wonderful he has learned by heart. At those moments, I’m grateful for our very French education.

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When people think of Paris, many think of a city that’s perhaps somewhat lacking in color… The city of light could, at first glimpse, come across as a city dominated by discreet and conservative neutrals. And how could it not? With beautiful, but often white or beige, buildings along every rue, avenue and boulevard in the city.

It can sometimes seem impossible to find any trace of color. But if you take your time and keep your eyes open (and away from the Champs-Élysées) you can find color everywhere in this amazing city. It seems like what the city is lacking in colored buildings and houses it makes up for with colorful details instead. One of the things I find to be the most interesting, when it comes to color here in Paris, are the amazing doors.

A detail that’s otherwise often overlooked. You see, Paris does color in its own way – discreet, chic, although bold and daring. Much like the city itself.

Related Links:

• For more inspiring shots of Paris, check out Little Brown Pen
• David Lebovitz has some lovely shots of Paris’ more original love locks
• Paris’ latest quirky initiative? Mimes to keep revelers quiet (and amused) at night

Text and images by Carin Olsson for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.