Paris is one of the best cities in the world for exceptional food and wine combinations. In a refreshing change of pace, restaurant le Clarisse offers their tasting menus paired with sake in addition to the standard wine route.  Although France’s gastronomic identity is undeniably tied to wine, who doesn’t like to opt for something original from time to time?

Tucked away in the 7^th on a street busy with bar and restaurant options, le Clarisse is an elegant stop offering French-inspired fare prepared with precision and delicacy by a Japanese chef. While the restaurant itself isn’t new, the change in chefs a little over a year ago makes it well worth renewed consideration.  Recently I was invited to taste test the sake-pairing menu and see what kind of revamp resulted from their association with Chef Sadaki Kajiwara.

The regularly changing menu is just the right size for my taste: four starters and five mains to choose from, each of which comes with a recommended wine or sake pairing and can be ordered a la carte or as part of a prix fixe menu. Restaurant director, wine connoisseur and in house sake expert, Jean-Philippe Pluvinet, is on hand to personally walk guests through the beverage pairings.

Pluvinet is responsible for each wine or sake match and does them with aplomb.  Thanks to his expertise, I learned that sake is not just a pitcher of harsh warm hooch served up alongside sushi and noodles – instead each sake can (and should!) be a delicate drink with its own personality. Amateurs will be pleasantly surprised by Le Clarisse’s range of junmai shu sakes that are not as strong as you might have been led to believe if you’ve had inferior sakes in the past.

My light and subtle vegetable ravioli starter was matched with the equally light Honryukarakuchi. My main, wild boar with pureed chestnuts, pomegranates and wasabi emulsion, came with the Kaze no mori, which had more oomph and a slight Poire William finish.  My dining partner started with the Carpaccio of Dublin bay prawns paired with Kokuryu followed by the red tuna in puff pastry and the Daissai 23 with its delicate floral aromas. While I like to diverge from the norm, I rarely stray too far from the cheese plate.  I finished with one and even got a sake that complimented the different cheeses quite nicely.  By the time the meal finished, I had a new appreciation of the range of sake on offer and the way each pairing played off the dish’s flavors.

The combination of good French food and good French wine is a beautiful thing. It’s one of the best aspects of living in Paris. But sometimes it takes an outsider to bring a fresh perspective to familiar things.  And sometimes a slight twist is just the ticket to shake up the familiar enough to make it interesting again. These two things are exactly what make le Clarisse worth a visit.

Restaurant Le Clarisse, 29 rue Surcouf – 75007. Three or five course menus with wine or sake pairings run approximately 100 to 130 Euros respectively.

Related Links:

• Le Telegraphe is another eatery worth checking out in the 7th
• Alexander Lobrano checks out Verjus and still loves it – the buttermilk fried chicken is “superb!”
• If you’re in the mood for non-frenchy fare, Blend is worth the trip for a great Paris burger

Written by Forrest Collins  for the HiP Paris Blog. All images courtesy of Le Clarisse . Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

You’re about to realize your dream: living in Paris for a month. You found an apartment, booked your flight, and learned how to ask for les toilettes.

You imagine strolling through the city, taking in the sights, hanging out at cafés, and being…Parisian.  Of course, part of the fun of travel is making new friends. As much as we love French hospitality, local Parisians and expats aren’t always hanging out in cafés looking for tourists to befriend. If your plan was to strike up conversation with the local artists over espresso at your neighborhood bistrot, you might want to think up a slightly more elaborate back-up plan. Just in case.

Michel NGUYEN; Yuwen Teo

Plus, maybe your idea of Paris includes escaping the tourist traps and discovering truly local haunts – great live music at an otherwise unassuming dive bar, or a fantastic meal at your neighborhood restaurant. With a dash of creativity, there are plenty of original ways to meet people and experience a little of the true Paris. Here are a few ideas:

Gael Sagueton

• Jim Haynes’ Sunday dinners. Jim Haynes, an American ex-pat, has been holding Sunday dinner at his apartment in the 14^th arrondissement for 30 years. You will meet plenty of Americans, but also people from France and other countries. Make your reservation early, as Jim’s apartment is small and can only hold about 50 people. If it’s a warm and clear night, he’ll accept more people as the crowd spills outside. After making a reservation, contact Jim on Sunday morning to get his building code and plan to arrive at 8 pm sharp. A donation is suggested, but you don’t need to bring anything else.
• CouchSurfing. This organization connects locals who have a little extra sleeping space with travelers looking for a place to stay for free. Beyond finding a cheap place to rest your head, it’s also a great way to meet locals and see a city through their eyes. CouchSurfing has groups in most major cities; the Paris group is very active, with over 60,000 members. Every Monday night, Parisian members meet at The Lions pub for trivia night and in the summertime, picnics are organized in parks all over the city. On any given day, you can find half dozen things to do: meet someone to go sightseeing, attend a party at someone’s home, join a vegetarian brunch… Once you sign up, go to the Paris group page to connect with locals and travelers looking for things to do in Paris.

Christophe Verdier

• Practice your Franglish. Franglish (it’s actually called that) is a group of French and English speakers that meets every week in Paris. The concept is kind of like speed-dating-meets-language-lessons over drinks, but rather than dating, it’s a way to make friends. You first chat with one person for 7 minutes in French, followed by 7 minutes in English. You switch partners and languages several times and recent transplants will be happy to know that your French doesn’t have to be perfect.
• Join organizations or volunteer. The American Library in Paris, the largest English-language library in Europe, puts together a number of events and opportunities for expats to mingle, including author readings, discussions, art and photography exhibits, and a book club that meets monthly. They’re also always on the lookout for volunteers. Whether or not you attend worship services at the American Church in Paris, you’re welcome to partake in the yoga, karate, or Scottish dancing classes they offer, among others.

Gael Sagueton

• If you’re in Paris to get away from your fellow Americans, try the Expatriate Party – a social group for ex-pats from all over the world. They put together events such as Cinema Night, Zoo Day, Karaoke and a Sunday morning run.
• For more ideas, check out other ex-pat sites like AngloInfo Paris.

Gael Sagueton

Clearly, opportunities for mixing and mingling with locals and expats abound in Paris. If this list just filled your Paris agenda with a little too much activity, remember that there’s also nothing more Parisian than leaving room for the unexpected, as you sip an espresso on your local café terrace… Who knows what might happen!

Related Links:

• La Mom comments on the strange expat slang time warp
• Jennyphoria on the highs and lows of visa trouble in France
• Meetup.com also organizes lots of getogethers for American expats in Paris

Written by Nicole Gustin for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Pssst… Don’t tell anyone, but we’re making a move.

A move to London, our other favorite European city, just as full of great shopping, architecture, art, history, and (almost as much) great food. Francophiles need not fret, though — we’ll still cover Paris’ best hidden secrets, but with a little British flair thrown into the mix.

If you’re planning a trip to London, take a peek at our brand new Chelsea vacation rental flat, Brompton. With its private garden, two bedrooms and plenty of space to lounge and cook, it’s the perfect home base for exploring all that London has to offer.

We’re also still offering some fantastic last-minute discounts on February 2012 dates (for Paris and London), so contact us now and get up to 30% off your winter holiday!

`Javier Bouzas ; JM Rosenfeld

Written by Genevieve Sandifer for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Years into my love affair with Paris, I’m still making ridiculous rookie mistakes. I suppose it’s time to accept that France will always have the upper hand, but it still stings.

My most recent humiliation is horse-related. Or at least, I thought it was.

Please note that I was a horse-obsessed child, so equine-related topics are particularly touchy for me. As a child, I would sometimes dress in riding garb for no reason at all. And while I was waiting for my parents to break down and buy me a real horse (never happened), I would drag garbage cans into the backyard and ride them, periodically switching from one member of the “herd” to the next. On any given afternoon, people in the house could gaze out and see me whipping a particularly stubborn garbage can with my riding crop.

Steak à Cheval (L. Richarz)

So when I first moved to Paris and started noticing “steak à cheval” on menus around town, I was wary. I knew there was a historical precedent of eating horse meat in France, but it seemed quite inhumane in this day and age. Nonetheless,  I assumed it was some kind of trendy gastronomic revival, and who was I to question the local gourmands? So I kept my mouth shut and simply avoided the dreaded horse steak when confronted with it.

Recently, I was visiting my boyfriend’s family in Brazil. One night, we sat down to dinner and I was presented with a traditional dish called bife a cavalo (in Portuguese), which translates to “horse-riding steak” or “steak à la horse.”

“Horse?” I asked, panic rapidly setting in.

“No, it’s like steak à cheval in France,” G explained.

“Sooo….. horse?” I wondered again.

It was at this point that I realized I’d been operating under a serious misapprehension, and it took the collision of three cultures for the truth to surface.

Tyrolian Andy

No wonder the French had seemed so lax about all that presumed “horse-eating”—they weren’t eating horse at all. It turns out that steak à cheval (or bife a cavalo) is merely a cut of beef with a fried egg on top. It turns out the French aren’t as barbaric as I thought! And it turns out I’m kind of an idiot.

I shudder to think what other misconceptions I’ve been carrying around all this time, but I have a feeling the truth will win out. Paris will see to that.

Related Links:

• Mark Bittman has his ideas about the best steaks in Paris
• Looking for non-steak options in Paris? Check out David Lebovitz’s handy guide (and the useful links below!)
• If you’re in the mood for a burger in Paris, check out Lindsey’s (Lost in Cheeseland) review of Blend

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Winter blues got you down? Nothing a quick trip to Paris can’t fix!

Seriously though. Winter is winter in Paris too, but when you can while away the days eating delicious pastries and drinking café crème or mulled wine in a cozy café, it’s easy to become fond of the rainy days too.

Haven in Paris is offering up to 25% off in most of our Paris and London apartments, so making the jaunt over doesn’t have to break the bank. Or just use the money you saved shopping the sales – after all, they run until February 14!

Check out all of our February special offers here, or contact us now to let us do the work for you.

PS: and wouldn’t this make the most darling Valentine’s day retreat…

Mauvais Garçons Marais 1-bedroom

Written by Genevieve Sandifer for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Paris is known for many things: its light, its bistros and, of course, its fashionably chic women. But what about its men? Do les hommes parisiens share that certain je ne sais quoi for which their female counterparts are so admired?

Alas, in a word, non.

Parisian men do, however, have distinctive style that manages to marry the rakish allure of Vincent Cassel or Olivier Martinez with the more bourgeois appeal of, say, Francois Cluzet. In short, his cool charm derives from an unstudied, imperfect look that works without looking overworked. Matchy-matchy, perfectly pressed and impeccably coordinated is just un-Parisian.

Annelie Willemijn

Here are some hallmarks of Parisian style pour homme, as seen on the city’s streets this chilly season.

Le foulard: There may be no look more “French” than an artfully tied scarf. Men are rarely seen in Paris without stylish neck wear — rain or shine. From the classic Burberry check to sumptuous cashmere or printed cotton, a casually wrapped neck is simply a must.

Les chaussures: Men’s shoes have gone narrow and pointy; classics like leather oxfords and sporty suede bucks have seemingly been stretched. A gently pointed toe is the only shoe shape that looks right right now. For weekends en ville, swap out the dress shoes for a well-worn pair of tennis — Puma or Adidas, please.

Annelie Willemijn

Les pantalons: Athletes with ample quads, beware: Modern Parisian trousers are très slim cut. Like those spotted on fashionable Parisiennes, slim-cut dark wash jeans for men can go almost anywhere in Paris these days. Worn with a tailored blazer or fine-knit sweater (think body-hugging), un jean works just as well for a stroll through the Centre Pompidou as it does for a dinner at a swank bistro. Whether it’s jeans, chinos or wool trousers, keep the cut close; a flared leg or tailored cuff is a definite style don’t.

La coiffure: For that perfectly tousled Parisian guy look, follow these simple instructions. Grab a black motorcycle helmet and fasten the chin strap (or don’t). Hop on a Vespa and speed across Paris, lighting and re-lighting a Gauloise at each traffic stop. Once the desired destination is reached, remove said helmet, rake fingers though the hair and shake vigorously. Bit of a windblown, tobacco-soaked mess? Parfait! And for men of a certain age (or hair line), offset a close-cropped ‘do and well-trimmed stubble with hipster plastic-framed lunettes. Complete the look with a fitted blazer in dark velvet or narrow corduroy for that exec-meets-Oberkampf look.

Dave Bloom; Annelie Willemijn

Les No-No’s: There are some looks that just won’t fly in Paris, no matter the season. No big surprises here: Baggy cargo shorts, baseball caps, athletic team paraphernalia in any guise, white tennis shoes (unless they’re ironically worn retro K-Swiss), white socks (but you knew that), and outdoors-y gear (think Patagonia and North Face) are all better left at home or stowed for that weekend à la campagne.

Ultimately, a Parisian man’s recipe for great style is simple: Don’t fret an extra day sans douche; a tousled confidence that says, “I just rolled out of bed,” is a key to Gallic cool.

Related Links:

• Are French men really irresistible?
• Have questions for French men? Ask a Frenchman!
• For more “typical” qualities of French men, check out Stuff Parisians Like

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

After having made the huge, scary, glorious decision to quit my plum entertainment job of 14 years to move to Paris, all I could picture was drinking rosé in fabulous cafes in St. Germain and strolling with my soon-to-be-named French lover along the Seine.  It was going to be all storybook romance and Parisian perfection, right?  What could possibly go wrong?

Finding an Apartment

The first big task on moving to Paris was finding an apartment.  I felt like a Parisian kid in a confiserie as I set out to look through all the online listings.  I was picturing my new, highbrow, literary friends meeting in my salon and debating whether Anna Karenina was due society’s scorn or the victim of a double standard.  And then there would be the lavish, multi-course creations that would appear out of my kitchen and people would say, are you sure she’s not French-trained or a descendant of Julia Child?

Mollie C.; Chris Waits

As I dug into the apartment search further and started to learn the meter to square feet conversion, a rosé hangover started to kick in.  How was I supposed to entertain the French literati in a space the size of a parking spot? Would my culinary creations have to come from a hot plate in my Betty Crocker play kitchen?  Oh, no, this wouldn’t do.  I decided an in-person visit would be best because I was sure there were some things that weren’t translating on the web page.

While I looked at thousands of apartments online, I was able to see exactly two in person.  I was told that they do such an excellent job with their pictures and descriptions that there should be no need to see anything in person.  I will say, if I ever need to sell an outhouse in the back woods of a swamp, I’d hire one of these rental groups to make it read like a genuine, rustic cabin with ocean views.

Sara Ko

In addition to being mighty with the pen, they also must have scored some sort of spy cameras with anti-dark, anti-it’s-really-not-that-small lenses.  The first apartment I saw looked like a little dungeon, and I was sure someone was chained up under the floor boards.  At least I had an honest agent who told me after we entered the dreary cellar that yeah, I don’t like this one because it’s really dark.  Perhaps this small note could have been conveyed during one of our 18 e-mail exchanges, instead of after a 12-hour flight.

When I walked into the other place, I stood mouth open for about 5 minutes before being able to speak.  All I could think was how do they DO that with their camera.  I could spin around and touch all sides of the apartment.  While lying in bed, I could wash my face or make toast.  I couldn’t breathe in this place, let alone entertain a thought.

Lindsey Tramuta (Lost in Cheeseland)

My last, and really only, hope was a friend of a friend’s acquaintance’s neighbor (basically one step away from being random stranger I met on the street, but I too was going to be on the street if I didn’t find a place in my final 24 hours of apartment shopping in Paris).

Related Links:

• Are you looking to buy an apartment in Paris? We can help.
• For interior decor inspiration, we love The City Sage
• For more tips on buying an apartment in France, check out architect & HiP Paris fave Michael Hermann’s guide

To find out whether Kelly finally finds her dream apartment, check back here for the next chapter in this series. Written by Kelly Page for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

To do une soirée or not to do une soirée?

What exactly is this rather elegant and mysterious sounding soirée? And, how should it be approached by mere Anglophone mortals?

Definition

Noun: soirée: party or gathering, with a sophisticated name to impress  the uninitiated, taking place in apartments across the glimmering city of lights (usually accompanied by beaucoup de alcohol,  yummy food and much merriment).

Still all rather vague? I’ve tried to break down the process into nice easy steps and here’s what I came up with…

Step 1: Getting there

There are several key points to bear in mind. Under no circumstances should you arrive on time – keep it carefree by arriving fashionably late.

Watch out for complex digicode systems designed to keep guests out and lift-less 6^th floor apartments in distant Parisian destinations.

Step 2: La Bise

Remember the essentials:

• Smile (not too much in order to remain mysterious)
• Perch two dainty kisses one on each cheek
• Compliment the host (it always goes down a treat)

I recommend arriving bearing wine. Don’t worry about breaking the bank – surprisingly, even inexpensive supermarket plonk is still very drinkable.

Step 3:  Chit Chat

Eek! Now that the introductions are out of the way, it’s time to mingle!

After much trial, a little terror and plenty awkward silence, I’ve concluded that Parisian small talk is… well, in fact, rather what it isn’t. It isn’t all that different from our own Anglophone variety. Conversations boil down to the following questions which are designed to place you within the rich and varied Parisian tapestry.

• Where do you live? Which arrondissement? (Bourgeois St Germain? Trendy Canal St Martin? Cosmopolitan Belleville?)
• What do you do? (A typically anglophone teacher job? A student? This is natural curiosity: why exactly have you ventured beyond the anglophone bubble to the French argot*loving whirlwind of Paris?)
• What/ where did you study?  (Background info that’s helpful to establish common ground).

Final words of wisdom?

When in Paris do as the Parisians do.

Borrowed proverbs aside, I can but sing the virtues of Parisian soirées – give one a go if you have the chance. Who can say no to pungent cheese, fine wine and lively conversation? Don’t worry if your French isn’t great, it’s all about taking part. I can assure you that grammar gets forgotten once the Bordeaux starts flowing!

Simply be yourself and bonne soirée!

Related links:

• Victoria’s tips on making small talk like a parisienne
• Some do’s and don’t's of hosting a dinner party in Paris
• Learn a bit more about champagne before picking out your next hostess gift

*French slang

Written by Victoria Wall for the HiP Paris Blog. All photos by Making Magique. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Related links:

• Badaude has also shown us how the Parisiennes dress for snow
• Our Abbesses, Houdon, Livingstone, and Pilleux apartments are all in Montmartre
• Do It in Paris’ guide to everything trendy in Monmartre.

Written by Badaude for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Fresh off the plane and bleary-eyed with two kids in tow, we set out for our first family meal in Paris. Surely in this city of more than 8,000 restaurants, finding a suitable spot would be simple enough, non?

After passing snug bistros and lively brasseries, we spotted a red neon sign that seemed to scream, “Kids Welcome Here!” We made a beeline for Hippopotamus, the kid-friendly chain with outposts all over the city. Without dwelling on the gastronomic disappointment (and pricey menu) of that evening, we learned some early lessons about eating out with kids in Paris. Number one? Don’t eat at Hippopotamus.

Ready for a fancy French meal (Juliet)

In the months since, we’ve tried many restaurants with our children (ages four and six). Here are some tips and sure-fire hits when you venture out to eat en famille.

Not where but when: Successful family dining is about knowing when to go. Many wonderful restaurants will welcome kids if you go at off-peak times. Sunday déjeuner is a big one for family meals in Paris. Friday and Saturday nights? Not so much. For mid-week lunches, go earlier or later than the business crowd and you’ll likely be met with a smile. Bustling brasseries and service continu restos will suit you better than dinner at 9:00 at the cozy corner bistro.

Picnic-ing and playing on the Champs de Mars (Markus Bollingmo)

Know your kids. Know the French: French children are trained to sit quietly and eat like little adults. French parents are strict and never more so than around the table. Crying, screaming and crawling under the table are not tolerated and will prompt vocal disapproval and the not-so-subtle “oh la la.” Adjust your restaurant choices accordingly to avoid a miserable meal for all.

Picky preschooler or gamin gourmand? What foods kids enjoy varies widely. After being weaned off hot dogs and mac n’ cheese, mine now love escargot and Epoisses. Many restaurants offer a Menu Enfant including a plat, boisson and dessert for under 10 euros. And even if they don’t, most will do a simple steak haché (bunless burger), pasta with marinara or omelet for your little one.

Emmanuel Avetta

With these tips in mind, here are some of our family favorites. Bon appetit!

Le Comptoir du Relais: After our early mishap at Hippopatamus, we decided that eating out with the kids wasn’t worth it unless we could eat in real Paris restaurants. A favorite (en famille or à deux) is Le Comptoir, headed by bistro maestro Yves Camdeborde. The food is delicious, the atmosphere lively. They don’t take reservations (hence the queue out front) but take the family around 6:00pm and you’ll have no problem nabbing a table. The servers are kid-friendly and their croque-monsieur with vache qui rit is a no-brainer for the tots.

Le Relais de l’Entrecote: The formula at this Paris classic is simple: juicy steak grilled to order with their signature sauce, a salade verte and mound of crispy frites. That’s it. That’s all they serve. And when it’s this good, who needs anything else?

The steak frites at Relais de L’Entrecote (Marko)

Café de Flore / Brasserie Lipp: Head to Flore for a surprisingly warm welcome for all. It’s loud and the waiters are friendly, a strong combination for happy eating with kids. They’ll do omelets, pasta or an ever-reliable croque-monsieur to please any pint-sized palate while you take in the beau monde. Feeling a bit braver? Try Brasserie Lipp across the boulevard. This art deco gem offers service continu so come early to beat the Parisian dinner crowd who flocks here for their classic Alsatian dishes like choucroute.

Les 400 Coups: When you’re looking for a place that truly caters to the under four-foot set, Les 400 Coups, near the park Les Buttes-Chaumont, has something for everyone. It offers a seasonal menu with veggie options plus play spaces for kids. It even has scheduled story times and special kids’ ateliers.

Pique-nique, Crepes & Berthillon: You’ll never go wrong with an outdoor picnic or warm crepes made to order. My family has picnicked all over the city from the banks of the Seine to Pere la Chaise cemetery. Grab gourmet provisions at the Grande Epicerie de Paris or simple sandwiches from any boulangerie. For dessert, no child (or parent) can resist Paris’ beloved Berthillon ice cream on the ever-charming Ile St. Louis.

What’s better than a hot crepe on a cold day? (Henrik Berger Jørgensen)

Related Links:

• More kid-friendly restaurants over on Babyccino
• What to do with kids while you’re here that everyone will enjoy
• Jenny at Dinner A Love Story shares her list of where to eat and what to do
• Hilarious stories of living in Paris with kids over at La Mom

Written by Paige Bradley Frost for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.