Fashion as High Art: Madame Grès at the Musée Bourdelle
May 4, 2011
Coco Chanel gets a lot of credit for being the grande dame of Parisian fashion. But guess what? There’s a new sartorial sheriff in town. Although I suppose she’s been there all along…
Madame Grès—one of the pioneers of Parisian haute couture—hadn’t really been on my radar until I hit the retrospective (La Couture à l’Oeuvre) that’s currently going on at the Musée Bourdelle. To be honest, the Musée Bourdelle hadn’t really been on my radar either. Tucked away in the 15th, it’s housed in the charming gardens and dusty ateliers where sculptor Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929) once lived and worked.
From now until July 24, the museum has turned its attention to high fashion, displaying 84 of Madame Grès’ jaw-droppingly gorgeous designs, alongside 50 original sketches and numerous editorial photographs. Grès, who got her start as a costume designer, was known for her sculptural aesthetic. Eschewing traditional corseting, she used artful draping and strategic twisting, roping, and pleating to create graceful shapes that enhanced the female form.
It’s no wonder that after launching her design house in 1932, she gained a loyal following of celebrities and icons (Jackie Kennedy, Greta Garbo and Dolores del Rio were clients) looking for customized designs that both moved and flattered. Continue Reading »
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