The Inside Scoop (Photo by Little Brown Pen)

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to live like a Parisian? Unless you’re prepared to travel with a dog or take up smoking, I think the easiest and most enjoyable way to experience la belle vie while visiting France is by shopping and eating.

I’ve been living in Paris for five years now. While I’d like to pretend that I spend my days strolling along selecting cheeses and chocolates from small shops, I’d be exaggerating. Sometimes I’m forced to go to the supermarket due to time constraints, hours of operation, or the simple fact that I need to buy toilet paper.

On the weekend, however, I really do try to frequent the farmer’s market and small shops in my quartier. Little by little, you start to develop a relationship with the vendors and they remember you. With my accent, it usually doesn’t take all that long.  My second visit to the produce shop on rue Mouffetard, I was greeted with “Bonjour, Miss California.” I’m still smiling. And a few weeks later, after I’d paid for all my fruits and vegetables, I realized that I’d forgotten a lime. When I told him it was for my vodka tonic, he placed it in my hand with a wink and refused my money.

Caramel pastry from La Patisserie des Rêves (Edwardkimuk)

Living like a Parisian is not always perfect, but it certainly can be if you go about it the right way. The beauty of being on vacation is that you can choose what you’d like to do with your time and plan accordingly. For example, I recently took part in Context Travel’s “Baguette to Bistro: Culinary Traditions of Paris” walking seminar. I’m often asked by friends and friends of friends for travel tips so I thought it would be a good experience and one I could recommend if I enjoyed myself, which I did – immensely!

The tour started at 10:00 a.m. I met my docent, Meg Zimbeck, in front of a café where rue du Bac hits the Seine. I was pleased to find that there were only three other participants joining us that day. It was immediately obvious that this was not going to be an ordinary tour. There would be no red umbrella to follow, no “bus leaves in 10 minutes” shouted through the end of a bullhorn, and no herding, corralling or waiting in long lines at the souvenir shop.

After introductions and a little small talk, the official tour began. Meg offered us some interesting historical information about the 7th arrondissement, the setting for our tasting tour, and we were off!

Delicious Parisian baguettes… (Roboppy;Jlaceda)

Picture yourself walking down a narrow street lined with boutiques and shops then popping into la boulangerie to buy some freshly baked bread.

After that, you visit la fromagerie across the street to taste a few cheeses that you selected with the aid of a master. You’ll need something to spread all over the crusty baguette you just bought – although it really is so delicious you could eat it solo.

Goat cheese on a baguette – the perfect snack (Chiot’s Run)

You’re back on the tiny sidewalk again, but seeing all those delicious pastries at the boulangerie has awoken your sweet tooth You could return to the boulangerie to pick up a pain aux raisins, but why look back when straight ahead there is a shop specifically dedicated to sweet things: la pâtisserie! You go inside and peruse the decadent offerings and have one boxed up for later.

After admiring creations that so closely resemble artwork they are kept under glass, you cannot be expected to wait until “later” to get your sugar fix so you take une petite pause at your local chocolatier for some instant gratification.

Who can resist a stop at the chocolaterie Chapon ? (Everjean;Roboppy)

Ooh là là! It’s already half past noon, but you have one last stop. La cave, of course.  You enter and admire the beautiful bottles of fine Bordeaux wines, while doing so the lovely caviste offers you a sampling of an hors d’age Armagnac which you gladly accept.  I guess it really is good to be French!

There were three things that I particularly enjoyed about the tour.  The first, and probably the most obvious, was getting to learn about the products and having the opportunity to taste them on the spot and ask follow-up questions about ingredients, the process, etc.  Secondly, I liked that our group was small which meant there was enough time to stray off topic and discuss questions about culture, customs, and favorite restaurants (which is why I would recommend taking the tour early in your trip so you’ll have time to put this wealth of knowledge to work).  Finally, going back to the relationship aspect I mentioned above, Meg (or Context Travel docents, in general) has a relationship with the shop owners/employees because she is a regular customer.  Thus, as her “visitor” you get a real French shopping experience.

If you’d like to do some “window shopping” or as the French call it “window licking” (lèche-vitrine, because they just can’t keep their tongues in their mouths), to hold you over til your trip to Paris, here are the places we visited:

La Maison Kayser
Androuet
La Pâtisserie des Rêves
Chapon Chocolatier
Ryst-Dupeyron

And, of course:
Context Travel’s “Baguette to Bistro: Culinary Traditions of Paris”
Duration: 2.5 hours (minimum, my tour went over)
Price: €70, plus €10 tasting fee

Related Links:

• Meg Zimbeck’s foodie blog and website, Paris By Mouth
• Context Travel’s list of Paris tours
• Amy Reverdy’s blog, C’est La Me
• Maggie Battista’s favorite foodie stops on the Rue du Bac

Written by Amy Reverdy. Top image by Little Brown Pen. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Paris has long been known as the City of Love, and with good reason. It is a place full of beauty, from the winding Seine river reflecting the city lights to the Sacre Coeur Cathedral perched upon the hill and the iconic Eiffel Tower that distinguishes its famous skyline. Even the classic rooftops inspire a feeling of romance among visitors and inhabitants alike. With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, we wanted to share with you some of our favorite romantic spots and things to do in Paris. Whether you are a foodie, movie buff, hopeless wanderer, or just someone who enjoys spending a relaxing night at home, Paris has something to offer. And this year, with Valentine’s Day falling on a 3-day weekend in the US and fantastic last minute deals on Paris apartments, you just might be able to hop over for a spontaneous romantic getaway!

Photos: farm3.static.flicker.com, meteye.net,
littlebrownpen.blogspot.com, mozaaix.org

Immerse yourself in all things chocolate. Context Tours offers a Chocolate Walk, which takes you on a stroll through Paris’s historic Left Bank as you stop in to sample some seriously intense chocolate goodies. Check out Tory’s rundown of the tour’s highlights, and let them know that you were sent by HiP for a small discount!

Wander one of Paris’s most romantic neighborhoods. Discover the Canal St-Martin, stretching from the Bassin de la Vilette down through the 10th arrondissement to the rue du Faubourg du Temple, near Place de la République. Stop in one of the many cafés, or take a few steps down the rue de Lancry to enjoy a bit of wine at Le Verre Volé.

Gaze out over the rooftops of Paris. Though the roof deck at la Samaritaine is no longer open, fortunately there is still Le Georges, a restaurant atop the Centre Pompidou with 360° views of the city. Stop in for a drink to take in the breathtaking views – but we recommend going elsewhere for dinner. Looking for a less expensive option? Grab a bottle of wine, head up to Sacre Coeur, and take in the best panoramic view of the city, glittering lights and all.

Class it up with a trip to the ornate Opéra Garnier. With Mozart’s Idomeneo playing on Saturday the 13th and La Dame aux Camélias ballet playing on the 15th, you’ve got a wide choice. Then again, you can also skip the performances and just take a guided tour or do a self-guided visit of the Palais Garnier… more details here. The chandelier and beautiful Chagall painted ceiling are not to be missed!

Take in a classic film. The Latin Quarter is known for its art houses that show films of all genres and in all languages. The rue Champollion is home not only to one of Haven in Paris’s cozy apartments, but to three classic art houses: Le Champo, Le Réflét Medicis Logos, and the Filmothèque du Quartier Latin. Or head to Le Balzac, an Art Deco independent cinema near the Champs Elysées that does pre-film concerts before Saturday showings.

Indulge in a memorable meal. With so many great restaurants, it’s hard to pick just one for a romantic dinner. So we’ll suggest a few. Some current favorites are Le Miroir in Montmartre, Le Petit Marché in the Marais, and cozy Left Bank spots Allard and Les Papilles. If you want to class things up, reserve at Ze Kitchen Galerie for memorable modern fare in a sleek setting. Relax and enjoy the meal!

oneandonlyparisphotography.com

Even with so many options, you might just want to cozy up at home. If so, you can’t beat a bottle of champagne paired with some quality French chocolates… and for those so inclined, a piece of notoriously sexy French lingerie.

Still need your own place in Paris this Valentine’s Day? Take advantage of low season prices and significant discounts on many of Haven in Paris’s apartments… see their full list of great deals here.

Written by Sarah Raymond for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

While Paris is the perfect city for aimless ambling, there is a time and a place for directed exploration. Earlier this summer, I had the pleasure of taking Context Tours’ “Art and Architecture of Gothic Paris” walk, led by American architect and Paris resident Michael Herrman. While Context always keeps their tour groups small (usually 6 people max.), I was fortunate enough to have the tour all to myself, and—as is typical of Context tours—Michael was happy to customize the experience to my specific areas of interest.

As a PhD and practicing architect, Michael was able to share incredible insight into both the history of Parisian architecture and its evolution over time, emphasizing his belief that “when we study the architectural development of a city, we can understand the city itself.” This theme was quite evident as we strolled around the Ile de le Cité, where Michael outlined Paris’ Gaulois history and then peeled back the layers of the rise of gothic architecture.

Sainte Chapelle

The tour took us from Sainte Chapelle to the Conciergerie (where Marie Antoinette was housed before her execution at the Place de la Concorde) to the nearby Place Dauphine and culminated at Paris’ towering Notre Dame cathedral. Michael’s ability to weave social history into our discussion brought much of the architecture to life. From the effect of the French Revolution on Paris’ gothic architecture to the layout of the city itself, Paris’ physical landscape reflects the incremental changes in the city’s social and political context over time.

As we gazed up at Notre Dame’s whimsical gargoyles and noted the morning light through the stained glass at Sainte Chapelle, it was quite evident that each and every corner of Paris contains a story.

While I am generally a huge proponent of aimless wandering, it certainly helps to have an expert on hand. The “Art & Architecture of Gothic Paris” tour lasts roughly 3 hours and takes place on the Ile de la Cité. The tour is €75 per person or  €270 for a private group tour.

Those seeking to deepen their knowledge on a variety of subjects would do well to browse through Context’s many Paris “walks” which cover themes such as art, archaeology, cuisine, shopping, and theology.

For more information, visit Context Tours.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Sainte Chapelle – sites.google.com