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Paris Through Another Lens: Travel Writer vs. Tourist

Paris' best monuments, museums, and cafés through the eyes of a travel writer

Emma Stencil

Visitors see Paris as a giant playground, an outdoor museum with amazing food and wine, as the most inspirational city in the world. Visitors may be right.

As a travel writer, however, I see Paris a bit differently. It’s my business to know what’s happening under the surface, to distinguish the good from, well, the less good. Travel writers and journalists are trained to notice what the everyday tourist might not, to make sure you can just show up and enjoy the city without having to worry. It’s not always as easy as it looks, especially since we want to enjoy Parisian moments as much as anyone else, but someone needs to find the buried information. So here are some ways we do it.

Paris' best monuments, museums, and cafés through the eyes of a travel writer

Isabel Miller-Bottome

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Posted in Parisian Living | 1 Comment »

January Events in Paris: Fête du Graphisme, Gueules de Parisiens, Cocktail Week & More

Isabelle Bonté, Sneakers

Isabelle Bonté, courtesy of Sneakers objets de désirs

The champagne has been poured and resolutions made, but January still has plenty in store. From Haute Couture Fashion Week to the always-anticipated soldes, it is a good month to be in Paris. Here are some of our other favorite events this month:

The third annual, five-week-long Fête du Graphisme kicked off this week and runs until February 16. Centered around the world of graphic design, with a collective exhibition entitled “Celebrate the City,” the fest too features projections, meet-ups, workshops, soirées, and more. For more details, peek here.

HiP Paris blog, January Events, Etienne Pouvreau

HiP Paris blog, January Events, Martin H. M. Schreiber

Etienne Pouvreau; courtesy of Martin Schreiber

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Posted in Events | 2 Comments »

Happy New Year 2016! A Look Back on HiP Paris: Best of 2015

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop.

Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop, Jean-Marie Heidinger

As 2015 comes to a close, the requisite annual nostalgia is setting in. The past year has been a trying one for the city of Paris, but certainly not without many positive and exciting happenings too. On behalf of Erica and myself, I want to take a moment to thank our wonderfully supportive readers as well as our talented writers and photographers – you all continue to make the HiP Paris Blog what it is today!

We’re ready for the excitement 2016 is sure to bring, but are first taking a look back at some of the terrific pieces we shared over the past year:

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Anticafe, a concept coffee shop.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Natural wines at La Buvette.

Anticafe, Jean-Marie Heidinger; La BuvettePalmyre Roigt

2015 had no shortage of exciting developments in the food and drink scenes in Paris, bien sûr. Le Fooding announced the French food world’s departure from the bobo, bestowing this year’s emerging trends the moniker “faubourgeoise.” We checked out Dersou, an all-around favorite address of the past year and winner of Le Fooding’s coveted “Best table” award, and fell for the stunning décor and tasty far of Les Chouettes in the Marais. We also saw changes to the Barbès neighborhood with the arrival of much-anticipated Brasserie Barbès.

Brasserie Barbès

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Maison de la Chantilly.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Chicken on the spit at Marche Bastille.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Emily Dilling of My Paris Market Cookbook.

Brasserie Barbes, Briag Courteaux; Maison de la Chantilly, Emily Jackson; Poulet rôti, Casey Hatfield-Chotti; My Paris Market Cookbook

Shops specializing in specific items are also popping up around the city, and we thoroughly enjoyed the creamy goodness served up at Maison de la Chantilly. Equally as mouth watering was our hunt for Paris’ best poulet roti, a simple yet oh-so-delicious pleasure. And for those days when cooking a fabulous meal at home is what we crave, our peek inside Emily Dilling’s Paris Market Cookbook, complete with recipes and tips and tricks for eating locally, proves the perfect inspiration.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Honor Café.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. aveK, a concept coffee shop.

Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop, Honor Café, aveK; Jean-Marie Heidinger

We simply cannot talk about 2015 in Paris without giving a nod to the slew of concept craft coffee joints that opened up around the city, seemingly a new one every week over the summer!

A specialty at Dersou Restaurant in Paris

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. La Buvette, a natural wine bar.

Dersou, Briag Courteaux; La Buvette, Palmyre Roigt

Paris’ wine and beer scenes continue to flourish as well. We dished on our favorite addresses for natural wine in Paris, the best classes for expanding our wine knowledge, and some of the most outrageous cocktails tasted this year. We also saw the opening of bars that place a focus on French-made spirits, like at bistro-bar A La Française in the 11ème.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. The Paris-Brule-t-Il cocktail at A La Française.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Finishing touches at Bespoke, a bar featuring one of Doni Belau's picks for Most Outrageous Cocktail.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Hotel du Nord on the Canal Saint Martin.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Cocktail bar Dirty Dick.

A La Française, Emily Jackson; Bespoke, Jean-Marie Heidinger; Hotel du Nord, Palmyre Roigt; Dirty Dick, Jean-Marie Heidinger

We continued to discover new pockets of Paris and loved exploring the Canal Saint Martin20ème and Nation areas in particular. We got the dish on Paris’ Spring Fashion week from an outsider prospective and chatted with Melissa Unger, the wonder woman behind Seymour+, one of the most unique spaces in Paris.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Le Picotin at Nation.
HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Seymour+, a unique creative space in Paris' 10eme.

Le Picotin, Palmyre Roigt; Seymour+, Camille Malissen

In addition to sharing new openings, favorite addresses, and interviews with people who inspire us, we will always love sharing those heart-warming Paris stories, like one about uprooting a life in the US and moving to Paris, or advice from real Parisiennes on dating in Paris. For new visitors to the city and locals alike, we also put together our favorite off-the-beaten-track museums as well as the best apps to make exploring the City of Light easier.
HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Le CENTQUATRE at the Canal Saint Martin.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Honor Café.

Le CENTQUATRE, Palmyre Roigt; Honor Café, Jean-Marie Heidinger

We would love to thank each and every writer who contributed to HiP Paris this year. We could not do it without you. A big shout out to (alphabetical order):

Kristen Beddard, Doni Belau, Elena BertonAnna Brones, Isabel Miller-Bottome, Forest Collins, Lisa Czarina Michaud, Meghan Cunningham, Emily Dilling, Casey Hatfield-Chiotti, Lily Heise, Rooksana Hossenally, Emily Jackson, Sara Mccarty & Jaimie Evoy (Context Travel), Marjorie Preval, Alex Roberts, Kate Robinson, Sylvia Sabes, Lauren Sarazen, Emma Stencil, and Amy Thomas.

We worked with some truly talented photographers this year as well. An especially big thank you to Briag Courteaux, Jean-Marie Heidinger,  Palmyre Roigt, Didier  Gauducheau, and Rebecca Plotnick for keeping the HiP Paris Blog looking gorgeous.

And we owe a very special thank you to our lovely Editorial Assistants who not only wrote and shot photos for a number of fantastic pieces, but also worked tirelessly to keep the HiP Paris Blog up and running. Emma and Emily – merci  à vous!

Happy New Year 2016, may it be a wonderful one. -Erin and Erica

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Ephemeral photos from a photographer who decided to pursue her dreams in Paris.

Marjorie Preval

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Posted in Parisian Living | No Comments »

Capucine: An Italian Café and Wine Bar Tucked Away in the 11ème

Capucine: An Clandestine Italian Café and Wine Bar in Paris' Faubourg Saint-Antoine

Emma Stencil

During a warm week in April I enjoyed a last meal at Paris’ favorite Italian restaurant, Caffè dei Cioppi, before it closed its doors for good. Although long-time fans of Fabrizio Ferrara’s flavorful cuisine were disappointed by the move, the good news is that the space has reopened as a relaxed Italian café and wine bar in the hands of Stefania Melis, already known to the Paris gastronomic scene as coupled with Simone Tondo of Roseval fame.

With the change of hands, the terrace tucked away in an alley off rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine hasn’t lost any of its charm. Folding metal tables and chairs are replaced by wicker stools and round café tables. A smart green awning reads Capucine in a curly script.

Capucine: An Clandestine Italian Café and Wine Bar in Paris' Faubourg Saint-Antoine

Melissa Leroux

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews, Wine | 1 Comment »

Cocktails and Noshes in SoPi: Inside l’Entrée des Artistes Pigalle & Le Grand Pigalle

Rue Victor Masse: The Best of Cocktails and Cuisine in Pigalle

l’Entrée des Artistes, Emma Stencil

Paris’ best playground is at the base of Montmartre, in the once red-light district turned bohemian paradise with no end of bars, boutique hotels, and late-night neo-bistrots. The Pigalle neighborhood has been reinventing itself over the past two years with the opening of cocktail bar innovators like Dirty Dick, Glass, and Lulu White. And the quartier continues to grow with the recent addition of l’Entrée des Artistes and Le Grand Pigalle Hotel, installed just across from each other on rue Victor Masse. Two more great reasons to head to north on a weeknight in Paris.

Rue Victor Masse: The Best of Cocktails and Cuisine in Pigalle

l’Entrée des Artistes, Melissa Leroux

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 2 Comments »

A Summer Internship with HiP Paris Blog

HiP Paris is officially in search of a summer 2015 editorial intern! In Paris this summer and curious what the job entails? Our current intern, Emma Stencil, shares her experience. And for more details on requirements and how to apply, please follow the link at the end of this piece. Bonne chance! -Erin
A summer internship in Paris with HiP Paris Blog

Last August, with a passport and plane ticket in hand, I said goodbye to my family and stepped onto an airplane headed to Paris. For the next year, I would learn a great deal through experiencing French culture firsthand and through my editorial internship with HiP Paris.

The city of Paris is famous the world over for its food, wine, art, and culture, and there are always new restaurants opening, new artists and musicians to discover. As the HiP Paris intern, I get to be the eyes and ears of the city, discovering up-and-coming events and attending press cocktails and openings.

Each day, I checked the blog post schedule and uploaded text and images onto the site. Editing and resizing photos, searching for related articles to link to, and tracking down information like restaurant addresses and phone numbers were the main parts of my job, but I also loved branching out as the internship progressed, particularly enjoying reading and commenting on other Paris food and fashion blogs on behalf of HiP Paris.

A summer internship in Paris with HiP Paris Blog

I have a nice camera and was often sent on photo excursions to shoot images for upcoming blog posts. Thanks to HiP, my weekends were spent wandering the antique flea markets at St. Ouen or enjoying coffee and dessert at Parismost historic café, Le Procope, all with my camera in hand.

In addition to the blog upkeep, Ive had the time to research and write my own content. As a food-lover, Ill admit that most of my posts have been about restaurants or food events. In writing these articles, I discovered favorite Korean restaurants like Hero and Ibaji, and made friends in Parisexciting gastronomy scene.

I was lucky enough to be in Paris during the time that Erin, HiP Paris Editor, was visiting for work. I got to know her over coffee at Folks & Sparrows and amazing pancakes at Holybelly. Over the next few months, she would take me out to birthday cocktails and to lunch as a parting present before she flew back to New York. For me, the best part of being the HiP intern is working with Erica, HiP Paris Editorial Director and Owner of Haven in Paris, and Erin. Ive never worked for bosses that have been as fun-loving and generous.

A summer internship with HiP Paris Blog

With a month left in Paris, Im busy making memories, madly shooting photos of every flowering tree along the banks of the Seine, and enjoying my work. Its been my best and favorite internship experience so far and Im thankful for the opportunities that HiP has given me.

Interested in applying for an internship with HiP Paris and are a native English speaker based in Paris for the summer? Please find more details on how to apply here.

Written by Emma Stencil for the HiP Paris Blog. All photos by Emma Stencil. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Posted in We're Hiring! | 3 Comments »

The Five Best Apps for Food-Lovers in Paris

Rebecca Plotnick

Rebecca Plotnick

Le Fooding

Restaurant reviews on the Le Fooding website and in the printed guide essentially decide where food-loving Parisians eat during the year. Focusing on new talent and restaurant trends, the guide is descriptive, humorous, and well-informed.

Fooding 2015, a smartphone application available in English and French, allows users to search an immense database of restaurants, cafés, and hotels, and read insightful reviews from the website. Search by category (sushi, pizza, vegetarian, wine bar, etc.) or by average price. You can access a map to locate restaurants in your area or near a metro station, and bookmark your favorites.

An amusing features lets you shake your smartphone to discover a restaurant by chance, and the news section provides in-the-know tips on hotspots and restaurant openings.

The helpful, easy-to-use application is available on the iTunes app store and Google Play for $3.99. The only con is the constant sponsor ads.

Paris apps, velib, Jean-Francois Gornet

Jean-François Gornet

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Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Restaurant Reviews | No Comments »

Ellsworth Restaurant and Wine Bar: Revisiting American Comfort Food in Paris

Ellsworth Restaurant and Wine Bar: Revisiting American comfort food in Paris

Emma Stencil

Paris doesn’t lack talented culinary couples. After waving bon voyage to Barcelona-bound Laura Vidal and Harry Cummins of Paris Pop-up, the City of Lights welcomes a new venture by the charming American duo Laura Adrian and Braden Perkins. More than three years after opening successful Verjus Restaurant and Verjus Wine Bar, the pair are introducing a sister restaurant that serves up wine bar favorites (including Verjus’ in-demand fried chicken) and other inventive variations on American comfort food.

Ellsworth Restaurant and Wine Bar: Revisiting American comfort food in Paris

Melissa Leroux

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 1 Comment »

April Events in Paris: Super Barquette, Le Fooding Priceless Souper, Gaultier & More

April Events in Paris: Banlieues Bleues, Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais, Céline Pham at Table Ronde, Amuse Gueule, Super Barquette, Les Plans d'Avril Festival, and Le Fooding's Priceless Souper at Il Brigante.

Super Barquette Frenchie to Go, Mickaël Bandassak

If a springtime weekend out of the city is in order, we suggest heading north to Seine-Saint-Denis for Banlieues Bleues. The festival features a slew of jazz concerts, and given that this is the event’s 32nd year, they certainly know how to put together a fabulous lineup. Get your tickets soon, as the festival wraps on April 17.

April Events in Paris: Banlieues Bleues, Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais, Céline Pham at Table Ronde, Amuse Gueule, Super Barquette, Les Plans d'Avril Festival, and Le Fooding's Priceless Souper at Il Brigante.

Super Barquette, Luz Verde and The Beast, Mickaël Bandassak

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Posted in Arts, Events, Food, Parisian Living | 5 Comments »

Gare au Gorille: A Friendly Neighborhood Neo-Bistrot in Paris’ 17ème

Reserve now at Gare au Gorille, a friendly neighborhood neo-bistrot in Paris' 17th arrondissement. Inventive and original cuisine at a good price.

Concealed behind an unassuming rusty metal and white tile facade is Paris’ latest culinary incontournable, Gare au Gorille. The peculiar name, lifted from an offbeat Georges Brassens song about an escaped gorilla, lends to the old-world-meets-new atmosphere.

Reserve now at Gare au Gorille, a friendly neighborhood neo-bistrot in Paris' 17th arrondissement. Inventive and original cuisine at a good price.

Head chef Marc Cordonnier and sommelier Louis Langevin are longtime friends who talked of opening a restaurant together before they turned thirty, a high school pipe dream realized this year when the pair left Paris’ renowned Septime to open their own restaurant in the 17ème.

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 2 Comments »