The volcanic eruption in Iceland has changed my (and likely your) travel plans pretty dramatically. I was supposed to be back with the husband in cold and rainy New England but am instead stranded in bright and sunny Paris. Despite feeling pretty helpless, as you may imagine, I am not getting much sympathy from friends and family. Taking the bull by the horns, I have decided to make the most of every extra moment in this perfect city. I’m sharing my five-step plan with you, with the hopes that it may help those of you also stranded in Paris or anywhere in Europe.

1. Revisit your favorite restaurant and hope for a sweet homecoming. I’ve visited some fabulous restaurants during my stay in Paris, only to be warmly welcomed (most of the time) upon my second visit. The staff at Le Miroir, Glou and, especially, Le Pure Café have been attentive, sweet and delighted by my return visits. However, I only just discovered my favorite restaurant in Paris a few days ago. La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde (64 Rue de Bellechasse 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 45 51 74 61) is a little neighborhood joint, only four blocks from my flat, run by an unlikely duo – she’s an experienced grandmother-like host, he’s a young, cool bartender/server. Together, they run an efficient, candle-lit, warm diner that whips up nine seasonal comfort dishes (three entrees, three plats, three desserts) and easy, affordable wine. I felt so at home here, so much so that I’m hoping a return trip will ease my travel plan pain. If it doesn’t, I’m pretty certain a return trip to my favorite Paris wine bar, Le Baron Rouge, will do the trick. Wine cures all ills, right?

2. Take a second look at your immediate neighborhood. I’ve lived in one of the most glorious Haven in Paris flats on the Left Bank. The neighborhood is lovely and studded with cafés, patisseries, shops and boucheries. Alas, I’ve spent most of my days running all over Paris, practically ignoring some very special places right on my block. One place I plan to explore is Deyrolle (46 Rue du Bac 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 42 22 30 07), a taxidermy shop that’s been delighting nature lovers and science aficionados since 1831. Originally a spot that “attracted hunters eager to immortalize their trophies and games,” Deyrolle is a museum-like venue perfect for little and big kids. Big kids like… my husband. He missed it when he visited last month, but now I don’t have to. (By the way, we wrote a great post about Deyrolle last year.)

3. Try out a new café, a new vantage point from which to scheme up exactly what you’d do if the volcano keeps spewing and you have to live here long-term. I’ve been exceptionally busy viewing the entire roster of Haven in Paris flats, getting to know Paris and entertaining various guests who have been eager to visit their Paris-based friend. With all this, I’ve had no time to simply sit at a café and take it all in. I finally hit a very old spot that was brand new to me called La Palette (43 Rue de Seine 75006 Paris, Tel: 01 43 29 09 42). Once frequented by both Cézanne and Braque, this café features artwork and artist palettes all over the walls and very well heeled locals in each of the seats. The sun was shining, the rose was chilled and I felt quite at home. I didn’t devise any profound solutions to the volcano crisis, but I did think one thing: Year-round, this wouldn’t suck.

Photo courtesy of Little Brown Pen

4. Indulge in those souvenirs that may not last the week. I’ve spent my time in Paris hording foodie souvenirs for my friends, family and even brief acquaintances. I’ve hit every typical venue and am armed with macarons from Pierre Hermé, chocolate-covered orange rind from A La Mere de Famille, and Basque-accented chocolate truffles from L’Atelier du Chocolat. But with flights delayed for possibly days, I’m worried about keeping these items fresh long-term. Who am I kidding? Some of these little pieces of sweetness will keep a week or two, but I think I’ll fall to pieces if I don’t finally indulge. Yesterday, I popped open a bottle of champagne along with my bag of mango passion fruit caramels from Jacques Genin’s Marais-based shop (133 Rue de Turenne 75003 Paris, Tél: 01 45 77 29 01). I swear that the silky caramel texture almost made me forget about the volcano, and reminded me that I needed more caramels, stat! (Here’s a great post on Jacques’ chocolate and caramels.)

5. Pick up a special souvenir for yourself. Upon further inspection of my suitcases when packing for my canceled flight, I felt sad seeing that I was returning without much for myself. Thanks to that volcano, I may have missed my flight but I haven’t missed out on the chance to pick up a truly great souvenir just for me. I’ve decided to cave and buy a handmade sac at Brontibay (6 Rue de Sévigné, 75004 Paris‎, Tel: 01 42 76 90 42‎), one of my favorite handbag boutiques. When I finally do leave Paris, I’ll be doing so sans regret, without feeling like I missed out on my only shot to pick up one of these sweet handbags directly from the source. Longchamp (21 Rue du Vieux Colombier 75006 Paris, ‎Tel: 01 42 22 74 75‎) is fine, but Brontibay is way better.

Regardless of how you make the most of your extended stay in Paris, I wish all of you the best and hope we all get home soon, with bags of caramels still in hand.

Written by Maggie Battista for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Our friends over at Parisien Salon, a website with great tips on things to do in Paris, recently posted  a helpful list of tasty restaurants that feature canteen-style (communal) tables. Perfect for large groups, eavesdropping on your neighbor’s conversation or making new friends, communal tables offer diners a more relaxed atmosphere in which to enjoy their meals.

“Whether they be arty, chic, historic or regressive, Parisian canteens have in recent years defined a new style of eatery. Now found in all districts, they’re putting an air of hospitality back into gastronomy and reshaping the rules of dining. (…)

Thinking about canteens takes us back to our tender childhood years, in school or at summer camp. These Paris neo-canteens are nothing of that. Instead, they’re all about chic decor, arty atmosphere and good food.

A canteen table was introduced a few weeks ago at Merci, the ethical (and trendy) concept store in the Bastille district. On the basement floor of the shop, the tables are placed in lines opposite the glass bay window, looking very like an artist’s workshop and offering a view of the restaurant’s organic vegetable garden. The atmosphere is cheerful, the tableware recyclable and the seasonal dishes all organic.

The canteen trend can also be found in mixed venues such as Uni-ver (photo at left), located in the heart of a passageway in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine. This gallery offers visitors lunch and dinner at its table d’hôte. Guests enjoy dishes together – prepared by the resident cook – at the large wooden table in the gallery or in the small indoor garden.

A favorite with fashionitas in the rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré district is the Cantine du Faubourg. A gastronomic pause here between the district’s haute couture boutiques will let shoppers enjoy the ultra-design decor, contemporary furniture and lighting effects. A table d’hôte welcomes groups of guests, while the lounge area adds a touch of glamour and chic to this neo-canteen.

Finally, when the 58 Tour Eiffel reopened on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower it was in the canteen spirit for lunchtime eating. So while enjoying an exceptional view of Paris, diners go to the counter to collect the dishes that they have ordered from the chefs at work in the open-kitchen right in front of them.

Bobo and Organic

The canteen trend also includes those who favour seasonal organic produce along with the Parisian bohemian spirit. One example is Supernature (photo at left), the organic 9th arrondissement canteen located just a few steps from the Grands Boulevards. In this restaurant, the emphasis is on healthy food. On the menu are lots of vegetable dishes, and even the wine list is natural. As for the decoration, small glasses and canteen carafes together with country photographs set a simple and friendly tone for this place.

In the same spirit, the organic canteen Soya in the 11th arrondissement, newly-installed behind a black facade, offers an organic menu in a decor of solid wood, cut stone and cast-iron columns.

Much appreciated by Parisians and foreigners, Rose Bakery now has two addresses, one in the 9th on the rue des Martyrs and the other in the Marais. On the menu at both locations are crates of fresh vegetables, organic fruit juices, small quiches and delicious scones. On Sunday, these not-to-be-missed local canteens become a very popular place for a brunch with the family or friends.

A new arrival in the Marais district, Glou has quickly become a hot spot. The large, industrial-style tables d’hôte serve up a list of natural wines and simple dishes that allow the palate to rediscover simple sensations. A few steps from the Musée Picasso, galleries and shops in the rue Vieille-du-Temple, it is an address worth noting.

The Originals

This final category of canteens puts the emphasis on originality in every sense of the word.

The restaurant Chartier (photo at left) is in fact considered as being the origin of Parisian canteens. For three centuries, this Parisian institution on rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, a few steps from the grands boulevards, has been serving meals at affordable prices – the great classics of French cooking – in its belle époque-style dining room. The waiters play on the friendly atmosphere in this canteen, where guests sit side-by-side. On the menu are popular and simple dishes: egg mayonnaise or grated carrot salad for starters, chicken and chips or sausage and purée as a main course, and all at budget prices.

Playing on the concept of originality with its back-to-school decor, Le Réfectoire, offers large tables, tiles on the wall, Goldorak or Superman glasses, and popular school meals on the menu. It’s a favorite with residents of the 11th arrondissement in their thirties. For visitors to Paris, this is an opportunity to sample popular French dishes at its source.

When the canteen trend meets pizza (another hot style of Parisian cuisine), the result is Pink Flamingo. With a simple concept that’s proven quite successful, the restaurant has its original location near the Canal Saint-Martin and a second one in the Marais. The pizzeria serves it’s dishes in a comfortable environment at one of the large tables d’hôte with a spotted wax tablecloth and large plastic carafe. The concept goes beyond the boundaries of the restaurant, since Pink Flamingo pizzas can also be ordered and delivered, whether to a park for a picnic, along the canal, or even to an apartment.

Finally, the canteen-grocers should not be forgotten. They can be found in all districts of the capital, with Italian inspiration, like the grocer Chauvoncourt, in the 9th arrondissement, or Franco-Japanese-Auvergnate at Mon Oncle le Vigneron, in the 19th arrondissement. There’s something for every taste in the Paris canteen. Bon appetite!”

Article by Linda Donahue — Parisien Salon.

58 TOUR EIFFEL 5 Champ-de-Mars, Paris 7th, +33 (0)8 25 56 66 62
www.restaurants-toureiffel.com

CANTINE DU FAUBOURG 105 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris 8th, +33 (0)1 42 56 22 22

MERCI, 111 bd Beaumarchais, Paris 3rd, +33 (0)1 42 77 00 33 ** Also see our article about Merci here. **

UNI-VER, 6 cité de l’Ameublement, Paris 11th Tel +33 (0)1 43 67 00 67

GLOU, 101 rue Vieille-du-Temple, Paris 3rd, Tel +33 (0)1 42 74 44 32

ROSE BAKERY, 46 rue des Martyrs, Paris 9th, Tel +33 (0)1 42 82 12 80

or: 30 rue Debelleyme, Paris 3rd, Tel +33 (0)1 44 78 08 97

SOYA, 20 rue de la Pierre-Levée, Paris 11th, Tel +33 (0)1 48 06 33 02

SUPERNATURE, 12 rue de Trévise, Paris 9th, Tel +33 (0)1 47 70 21 03

CHARTIER, 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, Paris 9th, Tel +33 (0)1 47 70 86 29

ÉPICERIE CHAUVONCOURT, 22 rue Henri-Monnier, Paris 9th, Tel +33 (0)1 48 78 26 03

MON ONCLE LE VIGNERON, 2 rue Pradier, Paris 19th, Tel +33 (0)1 42 00 43 30

PINK FLAMINGO, 67 rue Bichat, Paris 10th, Tel +33 (0)1 42 02 31 70 or 105 rue Vieille-du-Temple, Paris 3rd, Tel +33 (0)1 42 71 28 20

LE RÉFECTOIRE, 80 bd Richard-Lenoir, Paris 11th, Tel +33 (0)1 48 06 74 85

Fabulous Vacation Rentals in Paris, Provence and Tuscany: Haven in Paris, www.haveninparis.com