After having made the huge, scary, glorious decision to quit my plum entertainment job of 14 years to move to Paris, all I could picture was drinking rosé in fabulous cafes in St. Germain and strolling with my soon-to-be-named French lover along the Seine.  It was going to be all storybook romance and Parisian perfection, right?  What could possibly go wrong?

Finding an Apartment

The first big task on moving to Paris was finding an apartment.  I felt like a Parisian kid in a confiserie as I set out to look through all the online listings.  I was picturing my new, highbrow, literary friends meeting in my salon and debating whether Anna Karenina was due society’s scorn or the victim of a double standard.  And then there would be the lavish, multi-course creations that would appear out of my kitchen and people would say, are you sure she’s not French-trained or a descendant of Julia Child?

Mollie C.; Chris Waits

As I dug into the apartment search further and started to learn the meter to square feet conversion, a rosé hangover started to kick in.  How was I supposed to entertain the French literati in a space the size of a parking spot? Would my culinary creations have to come from a hot plate in my Betty Crocker play kitchen?  Oh, no, this wouldn’t do.  I decided an in-person visit would be best because I was sure there were some things that weren’t translating on the web page.

While I looked at thousands of apartments online, I was able to see exactly two in person.  I was told that they do such an excellent job with their pictures and descriptions that there should be no need to see anything in person.  I will say, if I ever need to sell an outhouse in the back woods of a swamp, I’d hire one of these rental groups to make it read like a genuine, rustic cabin with ocean views.

Sara Ko

In addition to being mighty with the pen, they also must have scored some sort of spy cameras with anti-dark, anti-it’s-really-not-that-small lenses.  The first apartment I saw looked like a little dungeon, and I was sure someone was chained up under the floor boards.  At least I had an honest agent who told me after we entered the dreary cellar that yeah, I don’t like this one because it’s really dark.  Perhaps this small note could have been conveyed during one of our 18 e-mail exchanges, instead of after a 12-hour flight.

When I walked into the other place, I stood mouth open for about 5 minutes before being able to speak.  All I could think was how do they DO that with their camera.  I could spin around and touch all sides of the apartment.  While lying in bed, I could wash my face or make toast.  I couldn’t breathe in this place, let alone entertain a thought.

Lindsey Tramuta (Lost in Cheeseland)

My last, and really only, hope was a friend of a friend’s acquaintance’s neighbor (basically one step away from being random stranger I met on the street, but I too was going to be on the street if I didn’t find a place in my final 24 hours of apartment shopping in Paris).

Related Links:

• Are you looking to buy an apartment in Paris? We can help.
• For interior decor inspiration, we love The City Sage
• For more tips on buying an apartment in France, check out architect & HiP Paris fave Michael Hermann’s guide

To find out whether Kelly finally finds her dream apartment, check back here for the next chapter in this series. Written by Kelly Page for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

When I lived in the 5^th arrondissement, I spent hours pounding the pavement (or the cobblestones, as it were) just exploring and trying to make sense of the diverse elements that make up the neighborhood: the historic Place de la Contrescarpe with its charming cafés, the lively market street Rue Mouffetard, the wild Jardin des Plantes, the magnificent blue-and-white-tiled mosque (La Mosquée de Paris), and the unexpected Arènes de Lutèce (a first century Roman amphitheatre). But more often than not, my walks ended with me staring up at the breathtaking Institut du Monde Arabe (Arab World Institute), my face tilted skyward as I struggled to take in the awesomeness that is this structure.

Against all of Paris’ historic architecture, the Institut is a welcome experiment in modernity, which is fitting since one of the Institut’s purposes is to promote scientific and technological exchange between France and the Arab world.
It’s a fascinating place that holds regular art exhibitions and events, but to be quite honest, I rarely get past the façade. I can’t count how many times I’ve stood motionless, staring up at it until my neck aches and I am on the verge of vertigo. It couldn’t be healthy, but somehow, I always end up there, my mouth agape as I take in the building, which reflects shades of light from the sky—gray, blue, gold, pink—depending on the time of day.

Designed by Jean Nouvel and completed in 1987, the building’s façade is almost entirely glass, behind which 240 motor-controlled metal apertures open and close every hour, filtering light in and out of the building throughout the day. It’s no wonder that this design helped put Nouvel on the map and took Parisian contemporary architecture to the next level. Architect Michael Herrman, who worked with Nouvel on the Musée du Quai Branly, recently told me that some of these apertures are beginning to break down. I suppose that’s what happens when you create a building that is part-robot. Broken or not, I’m still amazed.

And while I will forever be a sucker for Paris’ towering gothic architecture, my feet always seem to find the familiar path that leads them to the Institut, and no matter how many times I visit, I am always surprised at how new it feels.

L’Institut du Monde Arabe. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-6pm. Closed Monday.1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, 5eme arrndmt. Tel: 01 40 51 38 38. Metro: Jussieu (Line 10 or 7).

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

While Paris is the perfect city for aimless ambling, there is a time and a place for directed exploration. Earlier this summer, I had the pleasure of taking Context Tours’ “Art and Architecture of Gothic Paris” walk, led by American architect and Paris resident Michael Herrman. While Context always keeps their tour groups small (usually 6 people max.), I was fortunate enough to have the tour all to myself, and—as is typical of Context tours—Michael was happy to customize the experience to my specific areas of interest.

As a PhD and practicing architect, Michael was able to share incredible insight into both the history of Parisian architecture and its evolution over time, emphasizing his belief that “when we study the architectural development of a city, we can understand the city itself.” This theme was quite evident as we strolled around the Ile de le Cité, where Michael outlined Paris’ Gaulois history and then peeled back the layers of the rise of gothic architecture.

Sainte Chapelle

The tour took us from Sainte Chapelle to the Conciergerie (where Marie Antoinette was housed before her execution at the Place de la Concorde) to the nearby Place Dauphine and culminated at Paris’ towering Notre Dame cathedral. Michael’s ability to weave social history into our discussion brought much of the architecture to life. From the effect of the French Revolution on Paris’ gothic architecture to the layout of the city itself, Paris’ physical landscape reflects the incremental changes in the city’s social and political context over time.

As we gazed up at Notre Dame’s whimsical gargoyles and noted the morning light through the stained glass at Sainte Chapelle, it was quite evident that each and every corner of Paris contains a story.

While I am generally a huge proponent of aimless wandering, it certainly helps to have an expert on hand. The “Art & Architecture of Gothic Paris” tour lasts roughly 3 hours and takes place on the Ile de la Cité. The tour is €75 per person or  €270 for a private group tour.

Those seeking to deepen their knowledge on a variety of subjects would do well to browse through Context’s many Paris “walks” which cover themes such as art, archaeology, cuisine, shopping, and theology.

For more information, visit Context Tours.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Sainte Chapelle – sites.google.com

With real estate prices declining and more unique living spaces becoming available to buyers, it’s an exciting time to be practicing architecture in Paris. I recently chatted with American architect Michael Herrman about the challenges and rewards of working in a city where contemporary design is finding its place amid some of Europe’s most revered historical architecture. Michael brings a fresh point-of-view to this paradox, maintaining that the most inspired architecture arises from the intersection of new and old, classic and modern, existing and imagined. In his recently launched private practice, he will continue to explore these dichotomies as he makes his mark on Paris.

Originally from Miami, Michael studied architecture at Cornell University before earning an M. Arch. from Princeton. He was awarded a Fulbright Grant to study in Spain where he began a PhD that he completed at universities in Seville, Paris, and Rome. Concurrent with his academic pursuits, he worked on projects in Tokyo with famed Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, in Rome as the recipient of the prestigious Rome Prize in architecture, and Paris—most recently collaborating with Jean Nouvel on the acclaimed Musée du Quai Branly. For Michael, his academic studies and his “real world” design work were always intertwined. “My PhD in architecture provided a way for me to map out a focus and create a manifesto of sorts for my design work. My instinct from the beginning was to learn from my environment, from the histories of the cities in which I lived, as well as from the great architects for whom I worked, before forging an independent practice in architecture.”

With his PhD completed and his book, Hypercontextuality, off to the printing presses, Michael has seized this opportune moment to open his own practice in the City of Light. We caught up with him to ask a few questions as he prepares to launch this exciting phase of his career.

HiP: Why did you decide to set up your practice in Paris?

MH: Paris is one of those unique cities that both knows how to preserve its wealth of historic architecture and give opportunities to architects to create ambitious contemporary works. It was that rare balance that attracted me to the city. After years of working in Jean Nouvel’s architecture studio, mostly on the Musée du Quai Branly in the center of Paris, I felt it was the right moment to start my own practice. The American Rome Prize in architecture initially provided me with my own studio space. After years of working in Paris, I felt I knew the ins and outs of its complex planning approval and permits processes. I’ve also built a network of excellent contractors and artisans here, and Paris itself provides an incomparably stimulating architectural environment.

HiP: What type of projects do you hope to take on now that you’ve opened your own practice?

MH: For the moment, I am focusing on residential projects as well as continuing with restaurant design. My involvement in the design of Les Ombres, the rooftop restaurant at the Musée du Quai Branly afforded me a familiarity with restaurant design in Paris that I am excited to pursue. Residential projects have always been of particular interest to me because of the level of detail and personalization that can be achieved, especially in Paris, where the vast array of unique apartments offer opportunities to innovate based on what already exists. I’ve also worked in boutique hotel design, which I would like to do more of in the future.

HiP: What is your ideal project? What type of clientele do you most enjoy working with?

MH: Whether an apartment, restaurant, or hotel, I am particularly interested in designing spaces for those who visit Paris. There are so many preconceptions of what Paris is – what we see in cinema, postcards, and famous works of art – that I really enjoy the process of working with and challenging those preconceptions. My book, Hypercontextuality, which was written as a manifesto for architecture, deals in large part with issues of tourism and preconceptions of Paris. The soon to be released City Walks Architecture: Paris guide that I wrote also explains the complexities of Paris architecture to visitors.

HiP: Do you think being an American architect in the Parisian market works to your advantage?

MH: Being fluent in French and English naturally situates me between the two cultures, and this has always been advantageous when I work with English-speaking clients who want to build in Paris. Beyond mere language, there is also a kind of cultural translation that takes place. The space itself must be suited for certain American sensibilities, while at the same time maintaining a particularly Parisian identity. I’m also fluent in Spanish and Italian, after having lived for years in those countries. I look forward to working with a diverse range of clients in the future.

HiP: What kind of renovation projects do you enjoy most?

MH: I particularly enjoy renovations that unite different spaces or completely transform an existing apartment into an unexpectedly vibrant living space. I’ve often found that even renovations that don’t appear particularly interesting at first can, in fact, evolve into something exciting as I delve deeper into the work. The more unique the space or challenging the renovation, the more satisfying it is when the project is complete.

HiP: Is it difficult to find apartments to renovate in Paris?

MH: It can be. This is a particularly good moment to buy in Paris because the state of the economy has made it easier to find good deals, especially on unique spaces. Today, people are selling penthouses or apartments with incredible views that would normally take months or years to find.

Design for Upstairs of Penthouse Project.

HiP: Can you let us in on any current projects?

MH: One project I’m currently working on is a two-story penthouse apartment near Place de la Madeleine. To create the apartment, I joined three different small apartments and the maids’ rooms. The result is a veritable two-story home sitting on the roof of an apartment building. The apartment is designed around an interior private courtyard in which I placed a two-story vertical garden that gives the impression of being in the countryside, while on top of building in the center of the city, and also allows the apartment to have a more environmentally positive footprint. To take advantage of the incredible views, a terrace with a panoramic view will be constructed. The existing stone walls, and wooden structure are carefully preserved and combined with a large amount of glass to give the apartment an openness often hard to come by in 18th century buildings.

Design for Downstairs of Penthouse Project.

For Michael, architecture has always provided a medium through which he could better understand his environment and “engage with the aesthetic, social, and political issues of the world.” Historical context and contemporary reality play a vital role in all of his projects, and we look forward to watching him negotiate these boundaries as his Paris practice takes shape.

To contact Michael about potential projects or to learn more about his practice, visit http://www.michaelherrmanstudio.com