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Rue Myrha: One of the Coolest Corners of Paris’ Goutte D’Or

rue Myrha in the Goutte d'Or, Paris

Square Léon

The Goutte d’Or neighborhood is not the Paris most visitors expect when they land at Charles de Gaulle airport. A short walk from the Sacré-Coeur tourist mecca, the immigrant microcosm of African hairdressers, halal butchers, and informal street stalls selling corn husks around the Barbès-Rochechouart intersection is not one that even some Parisians aspire to visit.

10-11-16 - Rue Myrha - Palmyre Roigt - Boulangerie Tembely-22

Boulangerie Tembely

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Posted in Parisian Living | 2 Comments »

La Cantine de Merci. Lunch in Paris’ Trendiest Concept Store

La Cantine de Merci: Light Lunch in Paris' Premier Concept Store

Paris abounds with design galleries, chic clothing boutiques and tile-floored bistros serving market-fresh cuisine, but rarely do you find more than one together under the same roof. Merci is a delightful exception.

La Cantine de Merci: Light Lunch in Paris' Premier Concept Store

Founded in 2009 by Bernard and Marie-France Cohen, Merci is a concept store that rolls the best of fashion, design, household goods, lighting, and lunch into one stunning space in the Haut Marais neighborhood. Spanning three light-filled floors of a former wallpaper factory, the gallery-cum-boutique is run a bit like a magazine: roughly 15 “exhibitions” held throughout the year highlight diverse themes that have included herring, urban sports, wax-dyed batiks, and urban gardening.

La Cantine de Merci: Light Lunch in Paris' Premier Concept Store

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Le Bougainville: Homemade, Grandmother-Style French Cooking

Le Bougainville: Unfussy French Cooking near Place de la Victoire in Paris

I recently found myself strolling near the Place des Victoires, a business district that appeared to have closed for the day. Continuing in the direction of the more promising Galerie Vivienne, my date and I spotted a 1950s-style café with mosaic tile floors, Formica table tops, and primary-color paint. We were dubious, but hungry, so we stepped in, pleased to find that behind Le Bougainville’s near-empty café was a welcoming restaurant with a trove of pleased diners.

Le Bougainville: Unfussy French Cooking near Place de la Victoire in Paris

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 5 Comments »

Happy New Year 2016! A Look Back on HiP Paris: Best of 2015

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop.

Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop, Jean-Marie Heidinger

As 2015 comes to a close, the requisite annual nostalgia is setting in. The past year has been a trying one for the city of Paris, but certainly not without many positive and exciting happenings too. On behalf of Erica and myself, I want to take a moment to thank our wonderfully supportive readers as well as our talented writers and photographers – you all continue to make the HiP Paris Blog what it is today!

We’re ready for the excitement 2016 is sure to bring, but are first taking a look back at some of the terrific pieces we shared over the past year:

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Anticafe, a concept coffee shop.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Natural wines at La Buvette.

Anticafe, Jean-Marie Heidinger; La BuvettePalmyre Roigt

2015 had no shortage of exciting developments in the food and drink scenes in Paris, bien sûr. Le Fooding announced the French food world’s departure from the bobo, bestowing this year’s emerging trends the moniker “faubourgeoise.” We checked out Dersou, an all-around favorite address of the past year and winner of Le Fooding’s coveted “Best table” award, and fell for the stunning décor and tasty far of Les Chouettes in the Marais. We also saw changes to the Barbès neighborhood with the arrival of much-anticipated Brasserie Barbès.

Brasserie Barbès

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Maison de la Chantilly.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Chicken on the spit at Marche Bastille.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Emily Dilling of My Paris Market Cookbook.

Brasserie Barbes, Briag Courteaux; Maison de la Chantilly, Emily Jackson; Poulet rôti, Casey Hatfield-Chotti; My Paris Market Cookbook

Shops specializing in specific items are also popping up around the city, and we thoroughly enjoyed the creamy goodness served up at Maison de la Chantilly. Equally as mouth watering was our hunt for Paris’ best poulet roti, a simple yet oh-so-delicious pleasure. And for those days when cooking a fabulous meal at home is what we crave, our peek inside Emily Dilling’s Paris Market Cookbook, complete with recipes and tips and tricks for eating locally, proves the perfect inspiration.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Honor Café.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. aveK, a concept coffee shop.

Steel Cyclewear & Coffeeshop, Honor Café, aveK; Jean-Marie Heidinger

We simply cannot talk about 2015 in Paris without giving a nod to the slew of concept craft coffee joints that opened up around the city, seemingly a new one every week over the summer!

A specialty at Dersou Restaurant in Paris

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. La Buvette, a natural wine bar.

Dersou, Briag Courteaux; La Buvette, Palmyre Roigt

Paris’ wine and beer scenes continue to flourish as well. We dished on our favorite addresses for natural wine in Paris, the best classes for expanding our wine knowledge, and some of the most outrageous cocktails tasted this year. We also saw the opening of bars that place a focus on French-made spirits, like at bistro-bar A La Française in the 11ème.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. The Paris-Brule-t-Il cocktail at A La Française.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Finishing touches at Bespoke, a bar featuring one of Doni Belau's picks for Most Outrageous Cocktail.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Hotel du Nord on the Canal Saint Martin.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Cocktail bar Dirty Dick.

A La Française, Emily Jackson; Bespoke, Jean-Marie Heidinger; Hotel du Nord, Palmyre Roigt; Dirty Dick, Jean-Marie Heidinger

We continued to discover new pockets of Paris and loved exploring the Canal Saint Martin20ème and Nation areas in particular. We got the dish on Paris’ Spring Fashion week from an outsider prospective and chatted with Melissa Unger, the wonder woman behind Seymour+, one of the most unique spaces in Paris.

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Le Picotin at Nation.
HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Seymour+, a unique creative space in Paris' 10eme.

Le Picotin, Palmyre Roigt; Seymour+, Camille Malissen

In addition to sharing new openings, favorite addresses, and interviews with people who inspire us, we will always love sharing those heart-warming Paris stories, like one about uprooting a life in the US and moving to Paris, or advice from real Parisiennes on dating in Paris. For new visitors to the city and locals alike, we also put together our favorite off-the-beaten-track museums as well as the best apps to make exploring the City of Light easier.
HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Le CENTQUATRE at the Canal Saint Martin.HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Honor Café.

Le CENTQUATRE, Palmyre Roigt; Honor Café, Jean-Marie Heidinger

We would love to thank each and every writer who contributed to HiP Paris this year. We could not do it without you. A big shout out to (alphabetical order):

Kristen Beddard, Doni Belau, Elena BertonAnna Brones, Isabel Miller-Bottome, Forest Collins, Lisa Czarina Michaud, Meghan Cunningham, Emily Dilling, Casey Hatfield-Chiotti, Lily Heise, Rooksana Hossenally, Emily Jackson, Sara Mccarty & Jaimie Evoy (Context Travel), Marjorie Preval, Alex Roberts, Kate Robinson, Sylvia Sabes, Lauren Sarazen, Emma Stencil, and Amy Thomas.

We worked with some truly talented photographers this year as well. An especially big thank you to Briag Courteaux, Jean-Marie Heidinger,  Palmyre Roigt, Didier  Gauducheau, and Rebecca Plotnick for keeping the HiP Paris Blog looking gorgeous.

And we owe a very special thank you to our lovely Editorial Assistants who not only wrote and shot photos for a number of fantastic pieces, but also worked tirelessly to keep the HiP Paris Blog up and running. Emma and Emily – merci  à vous!

Happy New Year 2016, may it be a wonderful one. -Erin and Erica

HiP Paris blog. A look back at 2015. Ephemeral photos from a photographer who decided to pursue her dreams in Paris.

Marjorie Preval

Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

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Je Suis Paris: Images of Solidarity and Hope in the Face of Tragedy

Je suis Paris. Images of peace and hope. Locals young and old pay tribute to the fallen. Palmyre Roigt for the HiP Paris Blog

Here in Paris the post-tragedy healing process will inevitably be a long one, but in the mere few days since Friday’s brutal attacks, Paris has already shown its great resilience and strength. Restaurants, schools, and shops have reopened; the city’s citizens are back in the streets and at work. They bravely forge forward, proving once again that they will not be overcome. Despite this morning’s police raid in Saint-Denis, the overall feeling in Paris is one of warmth and solidarity.

At the scenes of Friday’s attacks we see no images of hatred, but rather of love and remembrance. It is in living fully every day and working, as a global community, towards real progress and positive change that we can best honor those whose lives were taken.

The following are some images taken over the course of the last few days in Paris.

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La Louve: Paris’ First Participative Food Coop to Open in the 18ème

La Louve Cooperative

Paris is set to become home to the city’s first participative food cooperative, scheduled to open in early 2016. After a successful campaign to get investors and funding from local residents, La Louve, which is based off the model of New York’s Park Slope Food Coop, has signed a lease for a space on rue des Poissonniers in the 18th arondissement.

The lease signing marks an epic moment in the long history of La Louve, which began with two Americans in Paris, Tom Boothe and Brian Horihan. Inspired by the coop model that can be found around the United States, these 18th arrondissement transplants decided to bring the dynamic and collaborative American-style food coop to their adopted home. After two years of finding kindred spirits and motivated partners, the association Les Amis de La Louve was created and began to gather community support.

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Cartel: Japanese Tapas Along Paris’ Canal St-Martin

Cartel: Japanese Tapas Along Paris' Canal Saint-Martin

With the mercury punching above 100, Paris’ terraces are mercilessly packed with sun-seekers from dawn till long after dusk. But this great little place that just opened along the Canal Saint Martin still has a few spots left for the taking, although not for long.

A cross between a South Floridian speakeasy and a cool contemporary Tokyo eatery, Cartel isn’t to be confused with the neighborhood’s fencing group or the new 8th-arrondissement nightclub. Modeled after a Japanese izakaya bar with more covers and a touch of prohibition era glamour, the slick contemporary interiors by Alexander Schrepfer and Feng Shui master Carine Lamassourie are an understated play on contemporary Asian and European cultures.

Cartel: Japanese Tapas Along Paris' Canal Saint-Martin

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Paris’ Best Natural Wine Bars & Shops

Natural Wine Bars in Paris

La Buvette

While it is exciting to live in a city that is increasingly open to international influences and imported ideas, it’s also reassuring to know that Paris holds its own as a trendsetter in certain fields. The natural wine scene is definitely one of the domains in which the French capital has gained and maintained solid footing. Senior natural wine sellers such as La Quincave and La Cave des Papilles established themselves as reliable outposts for vin nature in the early days of the movement, bringing low-intervention wine from small-scale vineyards to the city. These role models have inspired a new wave of wine bars to open in Paris, making natural wine increasingly present and accessible.

Natural Wine Bars in Paris

Le Mary Celeste

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Caroline De Marchi: Chatting Luxury Handbags in Her Hidden Paris Courtyard

Caroline de Marchi Boutique: Pick up one of these unique luxury Parisian handbags

On a recent rainy Paris afternoon, I found myself in a secret courtyard off the fashionable rue Saint-Honoré. A haven from the crowded street, lined with haute couture boutiques, the showroom of Caroline De Marchi, luxury handbag designer, offers a respite for the weary shopper as well as a welcome change from the typical Paris shopping experience.

Caroline de Marchi Boutique: Pick up one of these unique luxury Parisian handbags

I had the opportunity to sit down with Caroline, catching her just after she had returned from a trip to Milan, where she splits her time between stays in Paris. Caroline is of Belgian origin, but has spent most of her life in Paris, with stints in other locations around the world. She followed her Italian husband to Egypt, where she lived for four years, and has also called Sao Paulo, Brazil home. And influences from these séjours abroad are wildly evident in her bag’s styles. The stunning Bali sac, for example, is in the shape of a pyramid, a direct reference to Caroline’s time in Egypt.

Caroline de Marchi luxury handbags and a hidden courtayard in the heart of Paris

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Posted in Design, Fashion, Shopping | 1 Comment »

La Distillerie de Paris: An Experimental Micro-Distillery Opens in Paris’ 10ème

La Distillerie de Paris: Paris' only local distillery, making gin, vodka, and whisky spirits in the 10th arrondissement
The interest in craft beer and spirits that started in North America and the UK has trickled over to France, thanks to a cutting-edge cocktail scene and a growing community of discerning drinkers. Inspired by these craft movements during their fifteen years of experience as consultants for the spirits industry, Nicolas and Sébastien Julh
ès of the eponymous epicure decided to launch their own distillery in the heart of Paris. Five years and not a few setbacks later, La Distillerie de Paris started production this year with a gin, a vodka, and a malt spirit which, in time, will become Paris’ first whisky.

La Distillerie de Paris: Paris' only local distillery, making gin, vodka, and whisky spirits in the 10th arrondissement

The Julhès brothers gave themselves quite the challenge: located in the 10th arrondissement, La Distillere is the first distillery to set up in Paris in a century. Little, if any, structure existed for defining the legality of distilling in the city. According to Nicolas, it was a little like trying to get a driver’s license in a country with no roads or traffic laws. “We could have set up in the country, it would have been much easier,” he says.

La Distillerie de Paris: Paris' only local distillery, making gin, vodka, and whisky spirits in the 10th arrondissement

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