When people think of Paris, many think of a city that’s perhaps somewhat lacking in color… The city of light could, at first glimpse, come across as a city dominated by discreet and conservative neutrals. And how could it not? With beautiful, but often white or beige, buildings along every rue, avenue and boulevard in the city.

It can sometimes seem impossible to find any trace of color. But if you take your time and keep your eyes open (and away from the Champs-Élysées) you can find color everywhere in this amazing city. It seems like what the city is lacking in colored buildings and houses it makes up for with colorful details instead. One of the things I find to be the most interesting, when it comes to color here in Paris, are the amazing doors.

A detail that’s otherwise often overlooked. You see, Paris does color in its own way – discreet, chic, although bold and daring. Much like the city itself.

Related Links:

• For more inspiring shots of Paris, check out Little Brown Pen
• David Lebovitz has some lovely shots of Paris’ more original love locks
• Paris’ latest quirky initiative? Mimes to keep revelers quiet (and amused) at night

Text and images by Carin Olsson for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in London, Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

While Paris is the perfect city for aimless ambling, there is a time and a place for directed exploration. Earlier this summer, I had the pleasure of taking Context Tours’ “Art and Architecture of Gothic Paris” walk, led by American architect and Paris resident Michael Herrman. While Context always keeps their tour groups small (usually 6 people max.), I was fortunate enough to have the tour all to myself, and—as is typical of Context tours—Michael was happy to customize the experience to my specific areas of interest.

As a PhD and practicing architect, Michael was able to share incredible insight into both the history of Parisian architecture and its evolution over time, emphasizing his belief that “when we study the architectural development of a city, we can understand the city itself.” This theme was quite evident as we strolled around the Ile de le Cité, where Michael outlined Paris’ Gaulois history and then peeled back the layers of the rise of gothic architecture.

Sainte Chapelle

The tour took us from Sainte Chapelle to the Conciergerie (where Marie Antoinette was housed before her execution at the Place de la Concorde) to the nearby Place Dauphine and culminated at Paris’ towering Notre Dame cathedral. Michael’s ability to weave social history into our discussion brought much of the architecture to life. From the effect of the French Revolution on Paris’ gothic architecture to the layout of the city itself, Paris’ physical landscape reflects the incremental changes in the city’s social and political context over time.

As we gazed up at Notre Dame’s whimsical gargoyles and noted the morning light through the stained glass at Sainte Chapelle, it was quite evident that each and every corner of Paris contains a story.

While I am generally a huge proponent of aimless wandering, it certainly helps to have an expert on hand. The “Art & Architecture of Gothic Paris” tour lasts roughly 3 hours and takes place on the Ile de la Cité. The tour is €75 per person or  €270 for a private group tour.

Those seeking to deepen their knowledge on a variety of subjects would do well to browse through Context’s many Paris “walks” which cover themes such as art, archaeology, cuisine, shopping, and theology.

For more information, visit Context Tours.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Sainte Chapelle – sites.google.com

In his work, German artist Markus Hansen spends considerable time trying to “undefine” himself. Whether working on films, sculpture installations, or urban projects, he uses his art to explore the contradictions he sees in the world. Eleven years ago, when he designed the apartment that would become his family’s home in Paris’ 5^th arrondissement, his intention was quite the opposite. The duplex penthouse apartment—complete with 360 square meters of wraparound balconies and a rooftop terrace—is a study in spatial harmony and fluidity.

“The apartment is more of an experience than it is just a place to be housed,” Markus explains. “I wanted to create a context, which is how I work anyway.” Collaborating with interior architect Pierre-Louis Faloci and landscape architect Pascal Cribier, Markus and his wife, French writer Valentine de Ganay, conceptualized a space that would be both ethereal and comfortable, whimsical and pragmatic. “We don’t really have art here, because we wanted to emphasize the space itself by allowing the eye to move from the inside to the outside.”

The upstairs salon that leads to the terrace.

Over a decade ago, Markus and Valentine set out to find an apartment with outdoor space, unaware that they would soon be the owners of one of Paris’ most spectacular private terraces. “Valentine always wanted an apartment with a terrace.  At first, we thought the building was ugly,” notes Markus. “The apartment had been done in the late ’50s and it was totally different. No one wanted to buy it because it needed so much work.” Eighteen months later, they had created a living work of art thanks to the their own vision and the ability of architect Pierre-Louis Faloci to open the apartment up by increasing circulation and transparency.

The young couple agreed to keep the decorating natural and minimal in order to emphasize the apartment’s unique light, mesmerizing views, and abundant outdoor space. But they agreed the apartment needed something else to help articulate the space. The solution? An impressive furniture collection that includes pieces by Jacques Jarrige, Bruno Mathsson, Mies van der Rohe, and Achille Castiglioni, among others. “I’ve been very happy in this apartment,” remarks Markus, as we sit in the sun-filled salon on the upper level. “To have this much light is very rare. In Paris, you’re usually looking out the window at your neighbors dressing and undressing. One building blocks the light for the others. The real pleasure here is the fluidity of the space.”

The downstairs living and dining area.

Since initially designing the apartment eleven years ago, the Hansen’s life has evolved considerably. “We were only planning to have one child at first. When the second and third showed up, we had to make some adjustments,” Markus remarks with a smile. The apartment initially included only the top floor of the building, but last year, Markus and Valentine bought the apartment below to create a duplex that could better accommodate their family’s needs. The result is a sophisticated upper level that flows seamlessly into the colorful, whimsical floor below, where three children’s bedrooms are located. During the renovation, Markus took out walls to invite more light into the apartment and decorated the lower level with colorful furniture and amorphous shapes. I ask about whether, in retrospect, he would change the overall design of the apartment in order to accommodate family life. “The bottom line is, when you have children, you have to repaint more often. The Mies van der Rohe daybed has sometimes been used as a trampoline. But that’s part and parcel of living as a family,” he explains. “I wouldn’t have changed the design of the apartment.”

The outdoor terrace and garden.
 

Various parts of the terrace and views.

Today, Markus and Valentine spend much of their energy maintaining the extensive garden on the terrace—whose panoramic view of Paris is one of the most comprehensive in the city. “Once we had the furniture we needed, we both wanted to move on. Now we put our effort into the garden and its reinvention. That work continues, as it’s a living thing.”

But I soon learn that the Hansen-de Ganay’s Paris garden is just the tip of the iceberg. Valentine’s family owns the 16^th century Chateau de Courances, located 50 kilometers south of Paris. The chateau’s extensive park and gardens predate Le Notre (who designed the gardens at Versailles) and represent the period known for “Renaissance Water Gardens.” Markus and Valentine are both incredibly active in maintaining the gardens at Courances, which is open to the public from Easter through All Saints Day.

A reflecting pool in the park at Chateau de Courances.
 

Chateau de Courances. Photo: offrench.net

Born in Germany, Markus was educated in England and lived in South America before settling in Paris. His work regularly takes him to far-flung corners of the world, but he is content to call Paris home. He notes, “the quality of life in Paris, especially if you have children, is extremely high… This is where the kids are at home. So I don’t ask myself ‘Where is Markus at home?’ It’s not really about me anymore.”

And this generous outlook pertains to the ways in which the Hansen-de Ganays share their home with others. “It’s a special apartment, and it’s fun to invite people and share this experience with them. Same with Courances, really. Personal exclusivity is not something that interests us.” When not using the apartment, the family rents it out to tourists and visitors who undoubtedly appreciate the opportunity to spend time in a space that feels as though it is floating above the city.

The view and sitting area in the upstairs salon.

As we look out at the Parisian rooftops that surround us, Markus notes, “I have an open idea about the boundary between what is art and not art, and the notion of creativity. So I do consider this [apartment] to be an extension of my art.” Looking around as one room flows into another, ultimately leading to the terrace where you are surrounded by sky, sky, and more sky, I realize that contrasts can yield harmony. The realities of family life, as unpredictable as they might be, can play out in an atmosphere that is, in a word, transcendent.

To inquire about renting this apartment, click here.

For information about visiting the Chateau de Courances, click here.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

With real estate prices declining and more unique living spaces becoming available to buyers, it’s an exciting time to be practicing architecture in Paris. I recently chatted with American architect Michael Herrman about the challenges and rewards of working in a city where contemporary design is finding its place amid some of Europe’s most revered historical architecture. Michael brings a fresh point-of-view to this paradox, maintaining that the most inspired architecture arises from the intersection of new and old, classic and modern, existing and imagined. In his recently launched private practice, he will continue to explore these dichotomies as he makes his mark on Paris.

Originally from Miami, Michael studied architecture at Cornell University before earning an M. Arch. from Princeton. He was awarded a Fulbright Grant to study in Spain where he began a PhD that he completed at universities in Seville, Paris, and Rome. Concurrent with his academic pursuits, he worked on projects in Tokyo with famed Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, in Rome as the recipient of the prestigious Rome Prize in architecture, and Paris—most recently collaborating with Jean Nouvel on the acclaimed Musée du Quai Branly. For Michael, his academic studies and his “real world” design work were always intertwined. “My PhD in architecture provided a way for me to map out a focus and create a manifesto of sorts for my design work. My instinct from the beginning was to learn from my environment, from the histories of the cities in which I lived, as well as from the great architects for whom I worked, before forging an independent practice in architecture.”

With his PhD completed and his book, Hypercontextuality, off to the printing presses, Michael has seized this opportune moment to open his own practice in the City of Light. We caught up with him to ask a few questions as he prepares to launch this exciting phase of his career.

HiP: Why did you decide to set up your practice in Paris?

MH: Paris is one of those unique cities that both knows how to preserve its wealth of historic architecture and give opportunities to architects to create ambitious contemporary works. It was that rare balance that attracted me to the city. After years of working in Jean Nouvel’s architecture studio, mostly on the Musée du Quai Branly in the center of Paris, I felt it was the right moment to start my own practice. The American Rome Prize in architecture initially provided me with my own studio space. After years of working in Paris, I felt I knew the ins and outs of its complex planning approval and permits processes. I’ve also built a network of excellent contractors and artisans here, and Paris itself provides an incomparably stimulating architectural environment.

HiP: What type of projects do you hope to take on now that you’ve opened your own practice?

MH: For the moment, I am focusing on residential projects as well as continuing with restaurant design. My involvement in the design of Les Ombres, the rooftop restaurant at the Musée du Quai Branly afforded me a familiarity with restaurant design in Paris that I am excited to pursue. Residential projects have always been of particular interest to me because of the level of detail and personalization that can be achieved, especially in Paris, where the vast array of unique apartments offer opportunities to innovate based on what already exists. I’ve also worked in boutique hotel design, which I would like to do more of in the future.

HiP: What is your ideal project? What type of clientele do you most enjoy working with?

MH: Whether an apartment, restaurant, or hotel, I am particularly interested in designing spaces for those who visit Paris. There are so many preconceptions of what Paris is – what we see in cinema, postcards, and famous works of art – that I really enjoy the process of working with and challenging those preconceptions. My book, Hypercontextuality, which was written as a manifesto for architecture, deals in large part with issues of tourism and preconceptions of Paris. The soon to be released City Walks Architecture: Paris guide that I wrote also explains the complexities of Paris architecture to visitors.

HiP: Do you think being an American architect in the Parisian market works to your advantage?

MH: Being fluent in French and English naturally situates me between the two cultures, and this has always been advantageous when I work with English-speaking clients who want to build in Paris. Beyond mere language, there is also a kind of cultural translation that takes place. The space itself must be suited for certain American sensibilities, while at the same time maintaining a particularly Parisian identity. I’m also fluent in Spanish and Italian, after having lived for years in those countries. I look forward to working with a diverse range of clients in the future.

HiP: What kind of renovation projects do you enjoy most?

MH: I particularly enjoy renovations that unite different spaces or completely transform an existing apartment into an unexpectedly vibrant living space. I’ve often found that even renovations that don’t appear particularly interesting at first can, in fact, evolve into something exciting as I delve deeper into the work. The more unique the space or challenging the renovation, the more satisfying it is when the project is complete.

HiP: Is it difficult to find apartments to renovate in Paris?

MH: It can be. This is a particularly good moment to buy in Paris because the state of the economy has made it easier to find good deals, especially on unique spaces. Today, people are selling penthouses or apartments with incredible views that would normally take months or years to find.

Design for Upstairs of Penthouse Project.

HiP: Can you let us in on any current projects?

MH: One project I’m currently working on is a two-story penthouse apartment near Place de la Madeleine. To create the apartment, I joined three different small apartments and the maids’ rooms. The result is a veritable two-story home sitting on the roof of an apartment building. The apartment is designed around an interior private courtyard in which I placed a two-story vertical garden that gives the impression of being in the countryside, while on top of building in the center of the city, and also allows the apartment to have a more environmentally positive footprint. To take advantage of the incredible views, a terrace with a panoramic view will be constructed. The existing stone walls, and wooden structure are carefully preserved and combined with a large amount of glass to give the apartment an openness often hard to come by in 18th century buildings.

Design for Downstairs of Penthouse Project.

For Michael, architecture has always provided a medium through which he could better understand his environment and “engage with the aesthetic, social, and political issues of the world.” Historical context and contemporary reality play a vital role in all of his projects, and we look forward to watching him negotiate these boundaries as his Paris practice takes shape.

To contact Michael about potential projects or to learn more about his practice, visit http://www.michaelherrmanstudio.com