I woke up early with a nervous curiosity. I was about to have my hair colored by someone new for the first time in more than five years. After living in Paris for close to a year now, I have been extremely lucky that this moment did not happen months ago. My longtime hair colorist, Aura Friedman, travels to Paris for Fashion Week with Serge Normant and had been wonderful enough to color my hair in her downtime in her hotel bathroom between shows. This season, however, she was needed in Los Angeles, so I was forced to put my hair in the hands of someone new.

There are not many people I trust more than my hair colorist. My Norwegian roots make it impossible for me to dye my hair completely black, something I have desired since I was a teenager listening to heavy metal music in my bedroom. After several years of tinkering, Aura and I found the perfect mix of dark brown and red, or what my boyfriend so lovingly calls purple, to give my hair the edgy dark appeal that I desired without making me look like I just walked off of the Twilight set.

Armed with the knowledge that I would require a particularly deft colorist to match my shade, I quickly went to work asking friends for recommendations. My first shock was that hardly anyone I knew in Paris actually dyed their hair. For someone who started seeing the occasional white hair at 23, I was both envious and slightly flabbergasted. Thankfully my friend Natasha, with her razor-cut, cherry red locks, had a colorist recommendation to share: the Living Room salon.

Located directly off rue de la Roquette in the trendy Bastille district, the salon-slash-art-gallery is also steps away from the bars I frequent, where I could presumably go to drown my sorrows if the appointment turned awry. After trolling through the website’s image gallery of adventurously groomed clients alongside iconic shots of Kate Moss, I was sold.

The first thing that surprised me about the process was how easy it was to make an appointment. I called on a Wednesday and had an appointment for the following Monday. My call was answered by the owner, Matt, who after perfecting his dry cut style in London for six years, was quick to help me in English with the hair vocabulary my French has not yet mastered.

When I arrived for my appointment I was greeted by my colorist, Benedicte, who took my coat as I took in the decor. With a cubed electric fireplace on the mantel, a vintage foosball table set underneath graffiti wall art, and two glass cases filled with everything from old bowling pins and Japanese cartoon characters to old radio sets, it took me a moment to remember that I was getting my hair colored and not having a drink at a friend’s apartment.

I was seated in one of the four black leather chairs where I showed Benedicte a picture of what my hair looked like just after my last coloring. 70′s hip hop music played in the background as she produced a book of shades so that we could verify the exact color I wanted before getting to work on my mix. She labored over her concoction right next to me, and once she was done I nervously realized that the final outcome was blonde in color. Blonde? I thought we had a deal here!

After crossing all my limbs that there was nothing lost in translation, she quickly painted the color onto my roots and worked her way down, leaving just the ends of my long hair dry. After about 20 minutes, I was led to the sink where the rest of the color was pulled through and my hair was washed and conditioned. Benedicte then dried my hair herself, finishing it in French fashion by letting the bulk of it dry naturally. She escorted me with a mirror to the front door so I could check on the final result in full daylight.

There was no blonde in sight. She had nailed it.

I walked over to the check-out desk with a genuine smile on my face. The entire process took a total of one hour and 15 minutes and cost 75 euros, with an additional 10 euro tip for Benedicte. I was relieved that someone other than my Aura could now be trusted with my hair, and thrilled to find a quirky salon that understood the edgy look I was going for.

Besides missing the vintage dresses and companionship of Aura, the only other thing I would have liked would have been a nice finishing gloss to make my color a bit shinier – but I’ll just remember to ask for that next time. I look forward to revisiting the wooden panels of the Living Room in another three months and even plan to add a cut for 45 euros as well.

Living Room: 22, rue des Taillandiers 75011 Paris, France. Telephone: 01 43 55 66 81
Closed: Saturday and Sunday all day Metro: Bastille

Related links:

• Try out a new look without the commitment at the “Bangs Bar” in Paris
• The secret to perfect travel hair? Dry Shampoo. No joke!
• If you’re looking for a more traditional cut, La Nouvelle Athenes is fabulous

Written by Nicole Smith for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Didier Gauducheau, photographe, www.didiergauducheau.com, 06 03 54 39 73. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Last spring, every food-following Parisian had their sights set on one restaurant: Rino. After it opened in February 2010, chef Giovanni Passerini’s cozy, modern bistro quickly became the place for innovative, market-driven fare at reasonable prices. At the time, nearly every review was favorable (if not positively glowing); a year later, we stopped in again, for lunch this time, to see whether Rino has lived up to the hype.

The restaurant is tucked away on a fairly unsexy street in the 11th, and offers clean and unfussy décor, suggesting that here, the focus has always been on the food. As soon as we entered, we noticed a team of busy line chefs, chopping and arranging dishes in a small open kitchen.

In the tradition of Le Chateaubriand, Le Chapeau Melon, and Les Papilles, Rino offers a set menu (with little-to-no choice) that changes daily based on available ingredients and the whims of the chef. Luckily, Passerini’s impressive training (he previously worked at Arpège, Le Chateaubriand, and La Gazzetta)and innovative instincts mean that culinary missteps are rare—he has an innate sense for how to make seasonal produce shine in dishes that draw on tradition but play up surprises.

We opted for the 3-course menu at 28€ (you can skip dessert for just 23€, but who would do that?) accompanied by glasses of Chenin (6€ each), whose golden color and strong honey taste provided the perfect counterpoint for all the dishes we tried. This may not sound like a feat in France, but given the range of ingredients we would soon consume—at least three of which I had never before encountered—the overall experience was remarkably harmonious, as far as my palate was concerned.

To begin, we were presented with what looked like a dense forest of greens: hulking pieces of asparagus were topped by a tangle of nettles, wild herbs, actual flowers, and what I initially thought was octopus but turned out to be bulots (whelks). In case we weren’t already aware, an artful smear of mustardy vinaigrette across the plate sent a clear message: this food has vision. In addition to pleasing the eye, it was also a pleasure to eat, the balance of textures and flavors providing intrigue with every bite.

The arrival of the plats caused a moment of slight panic for my lunch partner. His tagliatelle with lamb ragout was instantly enticing but strangely tiny in size. When he dug in, however, the dense noodles and deep egg-y flavor (paired with a basket of bitter brown bread) managed to sate him. Meanwhile, my cabillaud, generously adorned with swiss chard, leeks and olive tapenade, was ample in proportion and perfectly cooked and seasoned.

Dessert was a decadent-but-light baba au rhum accompanied by citrus fruits and a frothy ricotta foam. The baba exploded like a booze bomb when I pressed my fork into it, and the creamy-citrusy blend of the other ingredients combined to form a serious flavor sensation.

As is the sign of a good modern French meal, we left feeling happy-but-healthy, energized rather than weighed down by the mini-feast we’d just inhaled. Which is to say, you could certainly justify coming here on a weekly basis if you were so inclined. All in all, Rino is still going strong a year after making its initial splash, and better yet, you can actually get a reservation nowadays! I can’t wait to try Passerini’s more expansive dinner menu (38€ for four courses or 55€ for six) to see what other smile-inducing ingredients and wacky combinations he’ll throw my way.

Rino: 46 rue Trousseau, 11ème. 01 48 06 95 85; rino-restaurant.com. Open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Open for lunch on Friday and Saturday only.

Related links:

• Five great substitutes for Frenchie (Rino is one of them) from Paris by Mouth
• Tired of dining out? Check out Lucy’s Kitchen Notebook for fabulous home cooked French food recipes
• Dorie Greenspan reminisces about Paris and shares some foodie favorites

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Didier Gauducheau, photographe, www.didiergauducheau.com, 06 03 54 39 73. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Yes, more chocolate! Paris does not lack for it. But in a town that boasts everything from over-the-top delicacies to perfectly executed classics, we’re always impressed when a shop manages to distinguish itself from the cacao-hawking competition.

Puerto Cacao is not the most decadent, shocking or renowned chocolate shop in Paris, but it might just be the most conscientious. On a recent visit, we sat down with store manager José Evrard to learn more about owner Guillaume Hermitte’s vision for an équitable (fair-trade) chocolate shop that does as much to promote social good as it does to promote deliciousness.

Amazing hot chocolate! Tory Hoen

Hermitte’s team works directly with Venezuelan cacao producers, cutting out unnecessary middlemen who might drive up prices for consumers and deprive cacao producers of fair payment. In addition, they work with “entreprises d’insertion,” organizations that help people who have encountered various difficulties (poverty, imprisonment, etc.) re-enter the workforce and improve their lives.

So if you had any doubts, the mission is sound. But let’s get down to business—what about the chocolate?

Julien Hausherr

The store is stocked with classics like chocolate bars in a variety of flavors (like white chocolate with a sprinkling of pink pepper, milk chocolate with cashews), elegant pastilles, eight kinds of chocolate bark (we were intrigued by the milk chocolate with sesame seeds), an ever-flowing fondue fountain, and some crazy chocolate masks that you can decorate with edible paint. If yours turns out to be less than a masterpiece, you can just eat it and call it a day.

Julien Hausherr

After browsing the goods, I started sampling. Of course, I had to try the chocolat chaud. Here, it’s made with rich organic milk, 100% pâte de cacao, a splash of vanilla and a hint of organic sugar. The overall effect is decidedly grown-up. I could see a sugar-seeking child being disappointed by the bitter finish, but for an aspiring adult like me, this interpretation provided a not-too-cloying way to appreciate a mugful of liquid chocolate.

Julien Hausherr

More moderate folks might have stopped there, but I persevered, digging into a slice of the fresh-baked fondant au chocolat, which was perhaps the richest version I’ve ever encountered. The oils from the cacao were literally oozing out of the deep, chocolate slice, and as I washed it down with the chocolat chaud, I suddenly understood the meaning of true gluttony. And it felt good… for a minute. A paralyzing chocolate coma ensued.

Julien Hausherr

Regardless, this socially conscious shop (located just across from the Marché d’Aligre) is well worth a stop. In addition to decadent desserts, Puerto Cacao also offers 4 different weekend brunch menus featuring homemade jams, chocolate spreads, organic bread, and savory tarts. They are also happy to host bachelorette parties in which brides-to-be can gather their friends around the fondue fountain to kiss their singledom goodbye. Bittersweet to say the least.

Puerto Cacao, 2, rue Théophile Roussel 75012 Paris Tel: 01 43 47 58 60   

Related links:

• David Lebovitz makes a mouth watering chocolate hazelnut spread.
• Lindsey Tramuta writes a review about Télescope a fab new coffee joint by Palais Royal in Paris.
• Do it in Paris also likes Puerto Cacao

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Photos by Julien Hausherr; Contact: julienhausherr@hotmail.fr. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Here at HiP, we’re always up for a good expat adventure tale, particularly one in which desserts play a starring role. In her new book, Paris, My Sweet, food writer (and regular HiP Paris contributor!) Amy Thomas regales us with stories from her two-year stint in Paris, where she wrote advertising copy for Louis Vuitton by day and scoured the city for sweets in her spare time.

All in all, it sounds like a pretty ideal existence, but like all expats in Paris, Amy faced a typical series of ups and downs. It’s no surprise that she fell hard for the city upon arrival; and it’s also no surprise that, once the initial Parisian shine wore off, Amy ultimately came to see the city’s not-quite-so-sweet side. It’s at this point that the story really starts to ring true for those of us who have been expats in Paris: you’re simultaneously charmed and alienated, comforted and challenged, energized and exhausted.

Paris, My Sweet; Takashi

As Amy weathered the highs and lows of expat life, she also covered serious ground in the dessert department, hitting all of Paris’ confectionary hotspots and sampling the city’s most decadent delights. This book is not only an account of her time in Paris, but also a goldmine of bonnes addresses (in both Paris and New York) for dessert lovers. This woman knows her way around a pâtisserie, and serious sugar-high seekers would do well to heed Amy’s recommendations.

Paris, My Sweet is a guidebook of sorts, but it’s also just a fun and decadent read—I devoured it in less than 48 hours, pausing only to scrounge up some chocolate now and again. In addition to making me hungry, Amy’s writing transported me back to Paris, a trip I am ever-eager to make, if only vicariously.

Evocateur

Below, I caught up with the author to talk Paris, pastries, and ultimately picking her favorite city.

You’re a dessert fiend, so tell us—what’s the main difference between American sweets and the Parisian variety?

American baking is a lot more creative and crazy, but at the same time, it’s a lot simpler. As amazing as everything was in Paris, it was so decadent. I definitely missed the American classics, like cookies and brownies, while I was there.

In your book, you recount dozens of sweet experiences in Paris. But if you had to recommend just one sugar-centric destination, what would it be?

It’s so subjective, but I would probably say Stohrer on Rue Montorgueil. It was my neighborhood bakery, but it’s also a beautiful, historic bakery. You can find anything you want there: chocolate, viennoiseries, cakes, tarts, savory stuff.  Everything they do is amazing.

Waitscm; H3_six

And aside from the desserts, what do you miss most about Paris now that you’re back in New York?

Definitely the Vélibs. When I go back to Paris to visit, that’s one of the things that makes me feel so alive—biking around the city. It’s just so fun. And I miss those days when you just start walking, and you walk all day because it’s so pretty and enchanting. You just want to keep going and soaking it up.

Your book details the culture shock you experienced as you adjusted to Paris. Did you have reverse culture shock when you ultimately returned to New York?

The first six to eight months back in New York were hard, because everything felt very harsh here. Paris is a big city too, but things are slower and there’s an appreciation for some of the more indulgent things in life. So coming back to New York was like a slap in the face, but after a while, I felt totally happy—especially once the weather warmed up.

Simon Goldenberg

So now that you’ve had some time to compare and contrast, what’s the verdict—Paris or New York?

New York is definitely home. I’m happier and more at peace here, even though there are things about Paris that I miss deeply. I sometimes get teary thinking about Paris and what I had there. The great thing is, I now have this connection to Paris. It became part of me.

And what about your cat, who has now lived on both sides of the Atlantic. Which city does he prefer?

I adopted him in New York, so I think he’s happy here. But he had a pretty kick-ass setup in Paris—lots of space and a sunny window perch that overlooked the rooftops. I’m sure he misses that.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Related Links:

• Buy Amy Thomas’ book Paris, My Sweet on Amazon now!
• Paris Patisseries also has a great list of Paris’ 38 Best Pastries
• Check out Amy’s Paris blog here
• For tips on the best pastries to be found in Paris and New York, check out Amy’s Sweet Freak blog

One of the latest hot items in the Paris food and wine world, Au Passage has been garnering more than a bit of blogger buzz lately. It also just snagged the 2012 Prix Fooding d’amour, confirming its status as Paris’ newest foodie darling.  In the evenings, this low-key wine bar and tapas joint is jam packed with patrons partaking in small plates of munchies, various wines by the bottle and a bit of respectably rowdy foodie fun. Things take a different turn at noon with the (thankfully) limited lunch menu: one entrée, two choices of mains, one cheese, one dessert.  With kitchen talent coming from Spring and Le Verre Volé and carefully selected market-fresh fare, this spot is turning out some seriously savory meals.  I stopped in recently with three other food and drink-minded bloggers  ( Kasia/Love in the City of Lights, Caroline/Sweet Caroline in Paris and Erica/HiP Paris) to see how the lunch stacks up to the hype.

Mid-day ambiance:

Kasia: The decor takes simplicity and minimalism to a new level of chic.

Erica: This is my kind of place. Laid back and casual. Wood, red paint, bistro chairs, parquet floors, hipster servers and chalk board menus. Unpretentious and fun.

Caroline:  I LOVE the old leather chairs, and appreciate the great mix of comfy seating, proper tables, and bar stools.

Forest: At lunchtime, it’s filled to (and sometimes beyond) capacity with local business owners and loyal fans trekking from across town to check out the latest lunch menu in a laid-back, bric-a-brac ambiance.

Lunch Menu:

Kasia: Presentation is creative and refined; flavors are fresh and plentiful. Wines to compliment.

Erica: Short, sweet, and to the point. Fresh, pretty, and tasty. The sheer opposite of standard American menus with endless possibilities.

Caroline: Yum! Light, fresh, market-friendly, sustainable, seasonal choices. All of my favorite words. And, well, the wine…

Forest:  Seafood is always perfectly cooked, and the staff is not afraid to forgo easy wine pairing options to offer interesting and appropriate suggestions.

Quality/Price ratio

Kasia:  Utmost quality for the lunch prix fixe.

Erica: From 9€50 – 19€. From just a main to a four course meal. A deal in my book, and a delicious one at that.

Caroline: Here’s the kicker–the lunch deal is an amazing value. Go for lunch. Just do it. Now.

Forest: Best lunch deal in town, hands down.

Neighborhood:

Kasia: Discreetly hidden down an alleyway in the 10th, a destination in itself.

Erica: Funky, hip and off the beaten track, but not too far off. Just close enough to the Merci store for a quick pop-in after a meal and a stroll on to the Marais from there.

Caroline: Ok, I may be biased, but this is one of my favorite ‘hoods in Paris these days (no, I don’t live there). Convenient from Republique & Bastille, but still on a quiet passage. What more could you ask for?

Forest: With neighbors like Grazie, Candelaria and l’Entree des Artistes, the area is fast becoming a foodie favorite while still retaining its own sketchily quirky feel.

Desert: Chocolate ganache with figs and hazlenuts

Au Passage: 1bis passage Saint Sébastien – 75011 Paris  - +33 (0)1.43.55.07.52

Open: Mon 11am – 1am, Tue – Fri 11am – 2pm, Saturday 6pm-2am

Related links:

• Kim from I Heart Paris also visits Au Passage
• If you like Au Passage, you may also like L’Office
• For more delicious Paris restaurant choice

A peek at the dinner menu

Compiled by Forest Collins for the HiP Paris blog. All photos Erica Berman. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Soon after arriving in Paris, I was approached by an older man at a cafe. With my blond hair and toothy grin, I was clearly a foreigner and at 29, a still-prime target. He asked if he could join me. “Actually, I am engaged,” I said, a fact I was very excited about just weeks after becoming betrothed.

“But zees is nuh-sing in France,” he replied with a sly grin. Nothing? I was shocked.

Thomas Mueller / Celine Willard

I had, of course, heard how forward French men could be. Tales of infidelity in France are legendary and I naively assumed I had encountered a world-class lothario. But I knew nothing then about the French art of la seduction and how what might seem like a come-on to a young American can actually be a benign and entertaining part of the game of life à la Française.

Kallie Brynn

I soon realized that flirting in France is central to the way men and women relate to each other. Good natured flirtation is expected and welcomed, assuming one follows the rules of discretion and good taste, bien sûr.

After nearly four years in Paris, here are a few things I’ve learned.

Flirting is fun: Men and women here view “le flirting” as a normal and deeply enjoyable part of daily life. It is a skill to be deployed in all situations – from casual supermarket encounters to exchanges with grumpy fonctionnaires – that can often assist in getting what you want. It can be as simple as holding eye contact for an extra beat or receiving a discreet nod of approval on the street. Much of it centers around light-hearted banter – the ability to engage in witty repartee and deliver a smart remark at just the right moment. Once mastered, the Parisian game of flirtation can be yet one more pleasure added to the day.

Gael Sagueton

The French admire beauty: French women work hard to look attractive and expect that men will notice (although they may or may not return their attention). Men, for their part, feel it’s their job to admire women and to express their appreciation – and not just to women under thirty. As one male French friend put it, “I meet eyes with a woman to acknowledge her beauty, whether it is present or past. If the look is returned, it may be appropriate to speak, but that is never taken for granted.”

Not just for singles: Single American men and women flirt at parties, bars and clubs (and online and via text, so I’ve heard.) Married people do not flirt at all unless they’re scumbags who routinely cheat (or want to cheat) on their spouses, right?

Dave Bloom

Not so in Paris. At a dinner party a few years ago, I watched a French friend flirt openly with my husband. We were seated with a large group and all enjoying multiple verres de vin. I watched (glared?) across the table as she laughed at his jokes, touched his arm, even talked about how “beau” he is. Hmm.

Being a loyal gentleman (often unaware of his own charms), he was flattered by her attention but claimed not to really notice. “Flirting with me?” he said when we got home. “No waaaay….” It was only later, after coming to understand the French, that I realized her gestures were quite harmless – a normal part of male/female rapport.

Dave Bloom

As time goes on, I figure, why not enjoy a little attention and appreciation from a stranger? That little frisson of pleasure that comes from a playful exchange can enhance the joy of daily life and even add a spark to your own relationship.

Provided it doesn’t go too far (unless that’s the point, of course) I say, vive le flirting. As a French friend explained it, “The French are always trying to seduce everyone. It’s just for ‘le fun!’”

• Amy Thomas is plotting a way to live in Paris!
• Our very own Tory gets more than flirted with!
• Love in the City of Lights and 10 golden rules to live by

Fashionable shoes on rainy Paris streets (Christophe Hue)

I spent most of November in Paris, and while it was a delight, I think I can count the number of times I saw the sun on one hand. Soon after my arrival, an out-of-nowhere hail storm reminded me of how fickle Parisian weather can be. (It was kind of awesome, but my Repetto’s were not amused).

Nonetheless, Parisians don’t let a little precipitation put a damper on their preening. On the contrary, a little inclement weather affords them the opportunity to show off their slick rainy-day style. So while we may dream of owning various classic wardrobe staples, it makes sense to start with some good-looking rain gear. If you’re spending the winter in Paris, you’ll need it.

Ladies waiting in the rain, with red umbrellas (John Oxley)

The umbrella. Absolutely non-negotiable—do not leave home without it. Cheap models can be found at any Monoprix, and department stores like Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, BHV and Bon Marché offer a wide range. If you’re feeling super fancy, splurge on a gorgeous artisan umbrella from Michel Heurtault.

The trench coat. From high-end classics (Burberry) to more modern adaptations (A.P.C., Comptoir des Cotonniers), nearly every French brand offers some version of this classic look.

Rain boots. Many Parisians pull on stylish boots by Hunter or Aigle to navigate slippery cobblestones, but cheaper versions are available at sports purveyor Decathlon.

Reflection in the Rain in Paris (Christophe Hue)

The scarf. In France, a scarf-less neck is a very sad neck indeed, especially in the rain.

Dark colors. Black, gray, navy. Not only are they flattering, but they’ll hide the sludge that accumulates on your pants over the course of a rainy Parisian day.

The hat. Parisians really do wear berets—and hats of all shapes, for that matter. Try hitting up stores dedicated to the art of hat-making (chapelleries) for various styles, or hit Kiliwatch for great vintage finds.

Metro tickets. Good luck finding a taxi in the rain!

Related Links:

• The Latest Look at Do It In Paris
• On the Street: Rain Walking in Paris (The Sartorialist)
• Paris Gray (Little Brown Pen)
• Eight Paris Essentials and Why You Need Them (by Hip Paris)

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Hearts and love around Paris for Valentine’s Day (clockwise from top left, Paris in Pink, Elisa Dudkinova, Paris in Pink, Phil Moore)

The dream of every girl, particularly on Valentine’s Day, is to be swept away by a Prince Charming, into a setting of eternal sunsets and romantic interludes. Does such a fairytale really exist? Not exactly. But for everyone there does exist a unique love story. It’s simply a matter of time. And meeting the right Prince.

Needless to say, I never stopped believing in fairytales.

A traffic light turned heart in the Marais and the silhouette of a kiss in a park (Dimitri Papazimouris, Celine Aussourd)

I met my ‘Prince’ one late March afternoon in New York City, very fittingly on the corner of Prince Street. It was a chance encounter, provoked by the puppets of destiny. Me, a hopeful romantic who had just returned from a year long journey around the world. He, a passionate Italian living in Paris. The ‘city that never sleeps’ our stage. Now this was the setting for a fairytale.

Five months later I moved to Paris. To live my story.

In love in Paris, is there any better place? (One and Only Paris Photography)

It is now eighteen months of a life founded on love, in a city that sets the precedent for romance. Has it always been easy? Not at all. But is has always been a great adventure. Within this time we have experienced many an amorous interlude, in settings including Italy, Corsica and Greece, but it is the place we call home, Paris, that proves the most enchanting. I might add that the summer sunsets do seem to last an eternity. To continue what can certainly be called a fairytale, we are soon getting married. A happy ending that is merely the beginning.

I often reflect upon my life and how thankful I am. To have met him. And to never have stopped to dream.

Written by Kasia Dietz for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Breakfast in a Saint Germain 2 bedroom apartment  (St. Germain Luxe)

Buying a little piece of the City of Light is a rite of passage in and of itself. Before becoming the owner of a beautiful 19^th century apartment in the heart of Paris with original oak floors and marble fireplaces, or converting a floor of maids’ rooms into a penthouse haven, you must first begin with an apartment hunt and all of its uniquely Parisian idiosyncrasies.

The first thing to understand is that like few other cities in the world, there is always intense competition to buy an apartment in Paris. At the worst of the recent financial crisis, Parisian real estate prices didn’t even make a small dip.  The crisis actually increased the demand for apartments as people took their money out of bank accounts with nose-diving interest rates and invested in the ever-reliable Paris housing market. Another good thing to know is that the average cost of real estate in Paris is still below the average price in London, Rome and numerous other European cities, making Paris an even more attractive place to invest.

Saint Germain 2 bedroom apartment, with balcony and view of Notre Dame (Ecoles)

What this means for your apartment hunt is that good properties are sold within a few days and the best ones within just a few hours.  Apartments advertised at 9:00am may have an offer accepted by lunchtime …

Once the hunt is on, the first obstacle is finding an honest, reliable real estate agent. Although this may hold true internationally, fanciful exaggerations are especially commonplace in Paris. After finding the perfect apartment, for example you might be worried about the fact that it is on the 7^th floor with no elevator. Your agent may reassure you that an elevator is going to be installed next year, guaranteed. This, however, may have been in the works for over 10 years and it may be another 10 until it actually happens.

I once visited a former warehouse in the heart of the Marais being divided up and sold as enormous apartments. The agent claimed it was an incredibly rare opportunity. However, upon visiting the space one major fault became clear: there were no windows. The agent claimed it wasn’t a problem because one could ask the city for permission to create as many windows as desired. However, they failed to mention that the Marais is a protected historic district where ever since 1963 – when the famous Malraux preservation laws went into effect – it is forbidden to change any façade in the neighborhood…

Rooftop Saint Germain 2 bedroom close to La Sorbonne (Champollion)

Despite the competitiveness, exhaustion and potential disappointments of the hunt, somehow there always comes a moment when you find yourself standing in an incredible apartment, on the perfect street, in the heart of the city, in a beautifully maintained building… Whether it is the 200-year-old limestone wall, wooden beams, the postcard-like views on to the city or into the garden of an adjacent palace, or the fact that you are a few meters away from the best restaurants or galleries in Paris, you realize that you have just fallen in love with your little piece of the City of Light. Apartments are actually advertised as “coup de coeur”  (love at first sight) and I can testify that it really does happen.

1 bedroom steps from Notre Dame and the Seine (Lagrange)

However, the most incredible part about the moment you find the perfect apartment is that skipping breakfast, running across town in your most elegant overcoat thrown over your pajamas, pushing through a busload of tourists on the sidewalk finally paid off because you are the first person to visit this apartment and you are about to make sure you are the last…

Stay tuned for Michael’s next installment, The Find: from an informal offer to signing the “promesse de vente”, securing a hold on that ideal apartment is the next step in the adventure…

Related Links:

• Check out Haven in Paris’ specials for a place to stay while you are searching for your piece of the City of Light
• Architect Michael Herrman’s website
• Jordan from O Happy Day blog shares her insights into finding an apartment in Paris
• The Escape Artist on buying an apartment in Paris
  

Written by Michael Herrman for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris. If you want to get in touch with Michael, you can reach him here: michael@michaelherrmanstudio.com

Once you’re familiar with the sweet life in Paris, it’s no easy thing to leave. After all, when every day is filled with arresting beauty, when all five senses get worked over like nowhere else in the world, when you’ve mastered the art of lingering for hours at the dinner table, the lunch table, on the river bank, beside the canal… well, where do you go from here?

Lucky for me, the answer is New York. And as loath as I am to leave some things behind (I’m talking to you, pain au chocolat), I’m equally excited to get back to certain creature comforts.

A stroll along the Seine and a vintage Tabac sign (pkabz, slimjim)

What I’ll Miss

Boulangeries

More specifically, the smell of boulangeries; of butter getting baked into millions of flaky croissant layers in the morning and of baguettes being pulled fresh from the oven each night. Getting smacked in the face with those delicious aromas is almost better than eating the warm, yeasty treats. Almost.

Velibs

It’s like being part of a symphony, riding around Paris on a Velib. You weave around delivery trucks, buzz past monuments, zip across bridges, and coast beneath dancing trees; your heart and legs pumping, spirits soaring, and then, the finale: you park outside Ladurée on the Champs-Elysées and reward yourself with un petit gateau.

L’Heure Bleue

What is it about this “hour” in Paris? Walking in the quiet side streets or staring out the window in the evening is nothing short of magic. It just doesn’t exist as beautifully, or linger as teasingly, anywhere else in the world.

Good luck resisting a pain au chocolat long enough to eat it off a plate (stijn)

Kind, intelligent, polite shopkeepers

I love walking into a boutique and being cheerfully greeted, courteously inquired after, and professionally served. It’s not that I’m high-maintenance—I just love the pride and respect that shopkeepers put into their work.

Tabacs

Rarely have I stopped for un café, but I’ve always loved walking by the Tabacs and peering in at the old men sitting quietly with beers, whether it’s at the end of the afternoon or the beginning of the day. It’s so classic, it could be 1952, 1993 or present day.

Food Shopping

Every neighborhood is its own little village of fromageries (oh, that delicious stinkiness!), boucheries (the crackling of chicken fat falling from the rotisserie spits), boulangeries (see above), and marchés (the towers of clementines and artichokes, changing like kinetic sculptures throughout the day). It’s a full sensory experience; the way food shopping should be.

Bikes are one of the best ways to get around Paris — except when it’s raining (Erlucho)

And the Things I Can’t Wait For

Fun

I’m dying to dork out. I’m looking forward to people laughing at my jokes again. I cannot wait for my stomach to cramp and my cheeks to ache from laughing so hard. The French have their comedy shticks and outrageous advertising; they’re goofy alright. But it’s rare for Parisians to cut loose and have some fun.

Communication 101

Being able to go to the post office, dry cleaner or dentist; the bank, hairdresser or cobbler; the doctor, travel agency or prefecture; being able to go anywhere with 100% confidence in what I’m saying and hearing… sigh, I cannot wait.

$5 manicures

You heard me. There’s a nail salon in Gramercy that still charges only five bucks for a manicure. After two years of being too cheap to pay for the 19-euro manicures in Paris, and my hands looking like a carpenter’s, I can’t wait to indulge in this little grooming pleasure again.

Blackberry tarte and some bread in the window of a boulangerie (Tiago A. Pereira, David Sifry)

Dating

I knew I’d come to Paris and fall in love. I just thought there might be a guy, and not just the city, in the picture. New York’s dating world may be brutal, but it’s better than being celibate.

Whole Foods

As much as I will miss strolling rue Montorgueil and ogling all the markets in Paris, knowing that the “Drunken Goat Cheese” and “Two-Bite Brownies” at Whole Foods are waiting on the other side of the ocean, makes this bittersweet parting a little easier to swallow.

Related Links:

• Continue reading Amy’s blog, God I love Paris, from New York!
• Keep up with Paris happenings on Parisien Salon
• Paris’ beauty chronicled on Little Brown Pen

Written by Amy Thomas for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris — and remember, we’re still offering up to 30% off our luxury properties in Paris this February.