The volcanic eruption in Iceland has changed my (and likely your) travel plans pretty dramatically. I was supposed to be back with the husband in cold and rainy New England but am instead stranded in bright and sunny Paris. Despite feeling pretty helpless, as you may imagine, I am not getting much sympathy from friends and family. Taking the bull by the horns, I have decided to make the most of every extra moment in this perfect city. I’m sharing my five-step plan with you, with the hopes that it may help those of you also stranded in Paris or anywhere in Europe.

1. Revisit your favorite restaurant and hope for a sweet homecoming. I’ve visited some fabulous restaurants during my stay in Paris, only to be warmly welcomed (most of the time) upon my second visit. The staff at Le Miroir, Glou and, especially, Le Pure Café have been attentive, sweet and delighted by my return visits. However, I only just discovered my favorite restaurant in Paris a few days ago. La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde (64 Rue de Bellechasse 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 45 51 74 61) is a little neighborhood joint, only four blocks from my flat, run by an unlikely duo – she’s an experienced grandmother-like host, he’s a young, cool bartender/server. Together, they run an efficient, candle-lit, warm diner that whips up nine seasonal comfort dishes (three entrees, three plats, three desserts) and easy, affordable wine. I felt so at home here, so much so that I’m hoping a return trip will ease my travel plan pain. If it doesn’t, I’m pretty certain a return trip to my favorite Paris wine bar, Le Baron Rouge, will do the trick. Wine cures all ills, right?

2. Take a second look at your immediate neighborhood. I’ve lived in one of the most glorious Haven in Paris flats on the Left Bank. The neighborhood is lovely and studded with cafés, patisseries, shops and boucheries. Alas, I’ve spent most of my days running all over Paris, practically ignoring some very special places right on my block. One place I plan to explore is Deyrolle (46 Rue du Bac 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 42 22 30 07), a taxidermy shop that’s been delighting nature lovers and science aficionados since 1831. Originally a spot that “attracted hunters eager to immortalize their trophies and games,” Deyrolle is a museum-like venue perfect for little and big kids. Big kids like… my husband. He missed it when he visited last month, but now I don’t have to. (By the way, we wrote a great post about Deyrolle last year.)

3. Try out a new café, a new vantage point from which to scheme up exactly what you’d do if the volcano keeps spewing and you have to live here long-term. I’ve been exceptionally busy viewing the entire roster of Haven in Paris flats, getting to know Paris and entertaining various guests who have been eager to visit their Paris-based friend. With all this, I’ve had no time to simply sit at a café and take it all in. I finally hit a very old spot that was brand new to me called La Palette (43 Rue de Seine 75006 Paris, Tel: 01 43 29 09 42). Once frequented by both Cézanne and Braque, this café features artwork and artist palettes all over the walls and very well heeled locals in each of the seats. The sun was shining, the rose was chilled and I felt quite at home. I didn’t devise any profound solutions to the volcano crisis, but I did think one thing: Year-round, this wouldn’t suck.

Photo courtesy of Little Brown Pen

4. Indulge in those souvenirs that may not last the week. I’ve spent my time in Paris hording foodie souvenirs for my friends, family and even brief acquaintances. I’ve hit every typical venue and am armed with macarons from Pierre Hermé, chocolate-covered orange rind from A La Mere de Famille, and Basque-accented chocolate truffles from L’Atelier du Chocolat. But with flights delayed for possibly days, I’m worried about keeping these items fresh long-term. Who am I kidding? Some of these little pieces of sweetness will keep a week or two, but I think I’ll fall to pieces if I don’t finally indulge. Yesterday, I popped open a bottle of champagne along with my bag of mango passion fruit caramels from Jacques Genin’s Marais-based shop (133 Rue de Turenne 75003 Paris, Tél: 01 45 77 29 01). I swear that the silky caramel texture almost made me forget about the volcano, and reminded me that I needed more caramels, stat! (Here’s a great post on Jacques’ chocolate and caramels.)

5. Pick up a special souvenir for yourself. Upon further inspection of my suitcases when packing for my canceled flight, I felt sad seeing that I was returning without much for myself. Thanks to that volcano, I may have missed my flight but I haven’t missed out on the chance to pick up a truly great souvenir just for me. I’ve decided to cave and buy a handmade sac at Brontibay (6 Rue de Sévigné, 75004 Paris‎, Tel: 01 42 76 90 42‎), one of my favorite handbag boutiques. When I finally do leave Paris, I’ll be doing so sans regret, without feeling like I missed out on my only shot to pick up one of these sweet handbags directly from the source. Longchamp (21 Rue du Vieux Colombier 75006 Paris, ‎Tel: 01 42 22 74 75‎) is fine, but Brontibay is way better.

Regardless of how you make the most of your extended stay in Paris, I wish all of you the best and hope we all get home soon, with bags of caramels still in hand.

Written by Maggie Battista for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Photos by Nichole Robertson

Macaron lovers rejoice. March 20 is the Jour du Macaron in Paris. This annual celebration, dreamed up five years ago by the famed pâtissier Pierre Hermé, finds pastry shops giving their meringue-y little delights away for free.

Customers are encouraged to make a charitable donation on their way out the door. It’s a sweet idea in celebration of spring and in support of research to treat rare diseases.

The crowds will be large this Saturday at Pierre Hermé, with fans lining up to choose any three of his famous macarons. Tempting flavors for spring 2010 include white truffle with grilled hazelnut and foie gras with chocolate, along with traditional favorites like coffee, caramel, and three kinds of vanilla. But Hermé isn’t the only one sharing his cookies…

> For a list of participating pâtisseries, continue reading at Budget Travel.

> For a report on last year’s celebration, check out Dorie Greenspan’s post here.

Catch more of Meg Zimbeck’s fabulous writeups here and here.

View more of Nichole Robertson’s stunning photos here.

Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

If you’ve spent even a small amount of time in Paris, you know that the macaron is ubiquitous. And in a city of fastidious eaters, it’s significant that a single dessert has managed to win the hearts and minds of so many. But the debate rages on: who produces the best macaron of all? While Dalloyau and Lenôtre both make a commendable run at it, everyone knows that there are only two real contenders.

In one corner, we have the elegant and established Ladurée, which has been turning out sweet confections since 1862. And in the other corner, we have upstart Pierre Hermé, the enfant terrible of the dessert world who worked at Ladurée before setting out on his own. (Word on the street is that the “oppressive” traditions at Ladurée were preventing him from exploring the crazy flavor combinations for which he is now world famous). Naturally, we wanted to get in on the debate, so Sarah (another Hip Paris blogger) and I gathered some friends last week for a comprehensive taste test. Two boxes of macarons later, we reached a nearly unanimous verdict!

du-sacre-au-sucre.blogspot.com

In the chocolate category, Pierre Hermé blew Ladurée out of the water. The flavor was far deeper, the texture smoother, the overall experience significantly more heavenly. Pistachio went pretty much the same way. But then we came to the most contentious category of all: caramel beurre salé (buttery salted caramel).

www.linternaute.com

This flavor is no joke in France. You’ll see some variation of it on nearly every dessert menu in Paris. In other words, this category is make-or-break. Initially, Ladurée lured us, as the filling of their macaron has actual caramel in it. Nice touch, but we decided the overall effect was a bit too sugary.

In the end, Pierre Hermé pulled through yet again. His filling is more buttery than caramel-y, but the overall experience is balanced and, to my palate, quite other-worldly.

So there you have it! Pierre Hermé comes up big in every category. Don’t get me wrong: I’m not going to refuse a box of Ladurée macarons if one happens to show up on my doorstep. But in a macaron head-to-head, my money is on Hermé.

So readers, what do you think?

Pierre Hermé. 72 Rue Bonaparte, 6th arrondissement. Tel: 01 43 54 47 77. Metro: Sainte-Sulpice (Line 4) or Mabillon (Line 10).

Ladurée. 21 rue Bonaparte, 6th arrondissement. Tel: 01 44 07 64 87. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Pres (Line 4). For Ladurée’s other Parisian addresses, click here.

Feeling ambitious? Try making your own macarons with David Lebovitz’s recipe.

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text by Kim Petyt – Photos Erica Berman

One of the (many) perks of shopping for Valentine’s Day gifts in Paris is the sheer magnitude of options. All year long, in nearly every corner of every arrondissement, you’ll find little shops selling romantic goodies for les amoureux de Paris.  So, whether you want to go “High” or “Low”, there’s something for every style and budget, if you just know where to look.  I’ve put together a few shopping guides to help you sort through all of the V-Day loveliness. I was inspired by the sparkle of the Avenue Montaigne for this first one, with a bit of Saint-Honoré and Place Vendôme thrown in for good measure.  So without further ado, here are a few luxury gift ideas for your Parisian Valentine’s Day.

An assortment of his-n-hers valentine goodies, from Colette. Sequined, heart-shaped keychain/change purse by Miu-Miu. Silver with red Swarovski Crystal ring by Alexander McQueen.  “Lady Claude” pumps by Christian Louboutin. Rose gold and diamond B pendant by Boucheron. Valentine Macarons by Pierre Hermé. Crystal and Diamond Dust “B in Love” pendant by Baccarat. Red matelassé wallet with heart charms, by Chanel. Metal and resin heart earrings by Chanel. Limited edition red Leica camera. Valentine’s dinner cruise on the Yachts de Paris. Mini heart pendant in crystal, by Baccarat.

Edited by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text by Simone Blaser

This Christmas, we’re indulging in a holiday treat that is both delicious and oh-so-French: the marron glacé. That’s code for glazed chestnuts—gooey nuggets of pure holiday joy. When done wrong, they are overpoweringly saccharine; but at their best, they have a nutty and subtle sweetness so delicate and modest, it’s no wonder they gained popularity in Louis XIV’s court at Versailles.

The first recipe emerged in the 16^th century around Lyon, and has lasted throughout the centuries.  These candies are made over the course of a few days by soaking peeled chestnuts in sugar syrup and drying the chestnuts once the liquid has been absorbed.  MG-diehards claim to taste the difference between marrons glacés made according to this traditional-if-lengthy cooking process and those created according to more time-efficient recipes (a.k.a. cop outs!).

What makes these French candies different from other, more famous cousins like the macaron? Tout simplement, it’s their seasonal lifespan, their but-once-a-year allure. My favorites are from Pierre Hermé, a confectioner who rarely disappoints. For less luxe options, you can find them at most chocolate shops (and even boulangeries and supermarkets), but get them fast! The good ones are only around through the holiday season.

Feeling motivated? Try glazing your own marrons at home. Make sure to plan ahead—it takes a few days to complete the process.

Ingredients:

1 lb. chestnuts, shell and membrane removed

1 lb. sugar

650 ml. water (plus or minus 2.5 cups)

1 vanilla bean

1. Fill a large saucepan with water, enough to cover the chestnuts (with shell and membrane removed).  Bring the water to a boil and cook for 8 minutes.  Drain and discard the water.  Rub the chestnuts between a dish cloth until the skins come off.

2. In a different pan, cook the sugar, water, and vanilla bean over low heat.  Stir until the sugar dissolves.  Gently simmer for 5 minutes, then add the chestnuts.  Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and discard the vanilla bean.

3. Cover the pan and steep over night or for at least 12 hours. Bring again to a boil and cook for 1 minute more. Let the pan stand for 24 hours. Repeat this step again until all the syrup has been absorbed (3-4 times).

4. Preheat the oven to 65 degrees Celsius or 150 degrees Fahrenheit.  Cover an oven rack with parchment paper.  Distribute the crystallized chestnuts evenly and allow to dry out with the oven door propped open a few centimeters for 2 hours (or until chestnuts are firm and dry).

5.  Cool completely. Store in a container with parchment or waxed paper between the layers.  Should keep for about 2 weeks.

Bon appetit!

Written by Simone Blaser for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text and Photos by Linda Donahue, Parisien Salon

Ever since Julia Child launched her famous cookbook, Paris has become a magnet for aspiring chefs. Even those not looking to make a professional foray into the culinary world find the City of Light to be the perfect place to pick up a new skill. La Cuisine Paris was created just for these people.

Tucked away in a courtyard on the boulevard St-Michel directly across from the Jardin du Luxembourg, La Cuisine Paris attracts Parisiens, expats and visitors alike with its diverse range of classes. French cuisine isn’t the only thing on the menu here. Students can learn how to make dishes from around the world, from Thai to tapas to tantalizing desserts.

I was invited to join in on a class by Jane Bertch, who along with “partner in crime” Olivier Pugliesi-Conti (a born and bred Parisien), ditched successful careers to open La Cuisine Paris. Jane, a transplanted American (who in her former life worked in the banking industry), greeted me warmly in the reception hall of La Cuisine. She led me through the dining room, with a long table where students (and teachers) sit down to eat after cooking up their feasts, to one of the two kitchen classrooms that make up La Cuisine.

Diane and our finished cheesecake.
(It was unbelievably delicious!)

Everything in the space was professional grade and thoroughly cosmopolitan, with a granite “center island” surrounded by stools, two ovens and a cook top with five gas burners. Before long, we were joined by Lisa Buros of Your Paris Experience and Diane Anthonissen, the Chicago-raised chef who was leading our class. Three more students filled the kitchen: Kimberlie and Kelsey, two American college students spending the semester in Paris, and Mag, a lovely Parisienne whose English was definitely in better shape than my French.

Diane’s mission was to teach us how to make a few delicious desserts. The pumpkin cheesecake and Chicago-style brownies were definitely American, but the Sablé au Chocolat cookies (à la Pierre Hermé) had a decidedly French twist to them. So we had an interesting mixture of ingredients (no pun intended), from Philadelphia Cream Cheese to French sugars and spices. And we all got our hands dirty (deliciously so) measuring the ingredients, mixing them up and molding them together. As we managed to get all three recipes together simultaneously, Diane shared some tips with us. For instance:

• Cookie dough rises best in the oven when it’s had the chance to “rest” in the refrigerator for at least three hours before cutting and placing on the cookie sheet. And rolling the dough into a log wrapped in plastic wrap puts it in position to be cut after it’s refrigerated.
• Melt chocolate in a bowl placed over a pot of simmering water—not directly on the flame.
• Cheesecake sets better when it’s refrigerated overnight.
• When recipes call for eggs to be added one at a time, break all the eggs into a bowl (don’t beat them), and just pour them in—one at a time.

Diane also converted all of the recipes into weight measures, thinking them far better than “cup” measures. We used bowls placed on electronic scales and poured the ingredients in gram by gram. I had assorted tasks that included measuring, crushing cookies for the pie crust, melting chocolate for the brownies and cutting the cheesecake.

What was supposed to be a two hour class stretched past three hours, but we were glad for it. Despite our diverse ages and backgrounds, our class operated more like a team. A sorority of bakers. And as we sipped our sauvignon blanc, we realized that “fun” was the best ingredient of all.

La Cuisine Paris offers both scheduled classes and private events for groups. For more information, visit their website at www.lacuisineparis.com.

Don’t forget to check out Linda Donahue’s blog, Parisien Salon.

Edited by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

If you’re like us, you’ve got a serious sweet tooth. Indulge it this Wednesday, October 28, at 7:30pm by heading to the American Library in Paris to hear acclaimed food writers Dorie Greenspan, David Lebovitz, and Alexander Lobrano discuss their favorite sweet treats and the best places to seek them out in the City of Light. The discussion is part of the Evenings with an Author series, and is free and open to the public.

Dorie Greenspan is a special correspondant for Bon Appetit magazine and frequent contributor to Parade magazine. She is the author of nine cookbooks, including two co-authored with Pierre Hermé. Her most recent book is Baking, From My Home to Yours.

David Lebovitz received much of his pastry chef training at Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse. He is the author of four dessert cookbooks, as well as The Sweet Life in Paris, a food-based memoir.

Alexander Lobrano has lived in Paris since 1986. Currently the European correspondant for the recently defunct Gourmet magazine, he is the author of Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s Best 102 Restaurants.

American Library in Paris 10, rue du Général Camou, 75007. Tel: 01 53 59 12 60

Click for a  List of all Evenings with an Author

Edited by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

photos courtesy of laduree.fr & chocolatezoom.com

There are many ways to experience Paris, but one of the more decadent ones is, simply, to follow the chocolate. Yesterday, I had the pleasure of doing just that when I tagged along on Context Tour’s “Chocolate Walk,” a chocoholic’s dream that took me to many of the Left Bank’s most delicious (and gastronomically prestigious) addresses.

We began the tour in front of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church, where our docent, Camille Labro, pulled an actual cocoa pod (which she had recently brought from Brazil) out of her handbag and gave us a quick rundown on the plant’s important role in world history.  Over the next few hours, we would learn the ins-and-outs of chocolate production and consumption, from its historical roots in South America to its modern incarnations in Paris and throughout the world.

Labro, a food writer whose career has taken her from Berkeley to Provence to New York to Paris, is one of the four docents who lead Context’s “Chocolate Walk.” And while her route was well mapped out, she assured us, “all of my tours are customized.” True to her word, she allowed plenty of time for us to follow our individual gastronomical and cultural whims, whether that meant lingering over a truffle or taking a moment to marvel at a row of smoked Spanish hams in a nearby shop window.

Our first stop was Debauve & Gallais, a maison de chocolat founded in 1800, which claims to have been the chosen chocolate supplier of various French kings.

Upon entering the shop, housed in an old pharmacy, we could not resist their famous pistoles, chocolate coins crafted in remembrance of Marie Antoinette. We sampled a variety of flavors, most memorable of which was the chocolat de santé, or “health chocolate,” whose cocoa content was 99%. Though not easy on the taste buds, this particular pistole certainly conveyed the essence of unadulterated cocoa.

Our second stop was the sensational Pascal Caffet on rue Jacob. After tasting their Caramel Poire, caramel and pear liqueur surrounded by 70% Venezuelan dark chocolate, I quickly understood why this chocolatier has been distinguished as a “Meilleur Ouvrier de France”—a title bestowed upon food producers who uphold the highest standards in gastronomic quality and integrity.

From here, we made our way down the winding streets of the 6^th arrondissement, dodging in and out of shops to taste and gawk to our hearts’ delight.

No chocolate tour would be complete without a sampling of the famous French macarons, the preferred dessert of many French royals (long before they became favorites of hungry tourists). We hit up the elegant Ladurée to sample classic flavors—chocolate, salted caramel, rose-infused—and later made our way to the much-loved Pierre Hermé boutique to taste macarons with a modern twist. So, who makes the best macaron? The debate rages on. We will have to continue researching.

photo courtesy of: mieletcannelle.wordpress.com

Our final stop was the sleek shop of Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini, whose address on the Rue de Seine felt more like an haute-couture clothing boutique than it did a chocolate house. Elegantly displayed in glass cases, his products evoke high art—though their visual appeal should not stop you from devouring them with abandon.

After a few hours of chocolate touring, I had expected to feel—at best—lethargic and—at worst—fatally ill.  On the contrary, I am now completely convinced of the cocoa plant’s much lauded benefits: mood elevation, anti-oxidizing powers, anti-bacterial effects, and all around magic. At the conclusion of the tour, I was left with the feeling that all was right in the world. An afternoon of chocolate will do that to you.

The approx. 3-hour walk takes place in the 6th arrondissement. Prices are 90€/person or 410€ for a private tour. Tours are limited to 6 guests.

The Chocolate Walk is just one of the many themed tours offered by Context Travel, whose docents are experts in various fields including art, architecture, history, theology, cuisine, shopping, and lifestyle.

photo courtesy of laduree.fr

For more information on Context’s Parisian tours, you can visit their website at: http://www.contexttravel.com/paris/.