All photos courtesy of Little Brown Pen

When I leave Paris for extended periods of time, I’m sometimes overcome with a panicky feeling that I’m losing touch, losing ground, floating into a France-less obscurity, and that when I return, I won’t recognize the city anymore. Or worse, that it won’t recognize me.

But as soon as I come back—as I have now, for three weeks—I realize the futility of such thinking. If there is any city that is adamant about retaining its traditions, its quirks, its pace and its “sameness,” it is Paris. So I’m happy to report that the French are more or less wearing the same thing (black), eating the same things (steak frites, baguettes, macarons), waiting for the same thing (retirement) and complaining about the same things (everything).

All photos courtesy of Little Brown Pen

On a recent stroll down the street where I used to live, I spotted the same old wine guy, cheerfully delivering bottles from door to door. He looked just the same as he had two years ago, when he helped me lug a box of champagne to my apartment for my 25^th birthday soirée.

When I spent a few weeks in Paris last winter, I was shocked and delighted to discover that my old friend, a particularly scruffy “dog on wheels,” was still kicking around my old neighborhood, rolling harness and all.

All photos courtesy of Little Brown Pen

And then, of course, we have the tastes, smells and sights that are unmistakably Parisian, and that I can’t imagine will disappear anytime soon: the haunting glow of the Pantheon at night, the salty-sour taste of Poilâne bread, and the steely-smoky smell of rain in November, when the city is teetering on the brink of winter.

Whereas some cities seem to be in a constant state of restlessness, of searching, of shifting, I often think that Paris remains relevant by virtue of its consistency and self-assuredness. It is what it is—take it or leave it.

All photos courtesy of Little Brown Pen

Of course, there is a “scene” here that moves, evolves, innovates and reinvents. But perhaps more importantly, there is a counter-scene, an anti-scene, an old-school adherence to the things that make Paris Paris. And both young and old, foreigners and French, residents and tourists can probably agree: We like it that way.

Related links:

• The Paris Effect also written by our own Tory Hoen
• The Cost of Feeling Good in Paris by Amy Thomas of God I love Paris
• Lessons from the Expat Book Club by Lindsey Tramuta of Lost in Cheeseland
• The Journey of Letting Go by Kasia Dietz of Love in the City of Lights

Written by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog.  All photos taken by Nichole Robertson of  the  wonderful Blog Little Brown Pen. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Paris parties are the best sort of parties. They incorporate my most favorite food groups – cheese, bread, wine and sweets – and my first Paris party was not lacking for any of these. The cheese plate looks small above, but it was immense and attacked repeatedly.

The homemade gougeres were, also, quite cheesy. This very full platter disappeared all too soon, which put a big smile on the face of the maker of these puffy, savory pastries. I am fairly certain that I munched down at least three of them between my gulps of wine.

Speaking of the wine, there was plenty. Perhaps that’s one of the reasons I so love Parisians? They make no excuses for drinking loads of wine at one in the afternoon. After all, why should they? They work plenty hard for their wine, and we all climbed five flights of stairs to make it to this delicious brunch party. Five flights meant at least five glasses of le vin rouge, no? Regardless… no one was counting.

The table was decked out nicely. I adore how whatever glasses, plates, fruit and wine had on hand became makeshift centerpieces. And the host, who happens to own one of the sweetest flats available through Haven in Paris, picked up some flowers to bring it all together nicely, creating quite the monotone color palette (the best kind, if you ask me). While I’m sure that not every Paris brunch table comes together as nicely as this one did (kudos to the talented hosts), all Parisians have a flair for combining items that seem insignificant into something very lovely, very special. And while in the States you might refrain from disturbing a perfectly-poised fruit bowl, that was so not the case here; all the citrus fruits evaporated before the party’s end.

Don’t ask me the name of this pile of chocolate wedges. It was a dessert made by the host that included chocolate (of course), something crunchy and something slightly minty. We all scarfed it down, not bothering to remember the name nor the complete list of ingredients. I am hoping the host will share the recipe if I ask nicely. After all, I did bring a scrumptious fruit tart to the festivities. Hopefully, the host will remember and kindly agree to share what will forever be a treasured recipe for me.

This tomato tart with mustard was delicious. It used a homemade crust that was filled with mustard, cheese, tomatoes and herbs. I’ve found several recipes online, as it’s a French specialty. When I’m back in the States, I plan to make it for every single dinner party. In advance, I ask my friends and family for forgiveness, but I’m pretty sure you will all approve.

The silver was polished and the bread was piled high. I am not leaving Paris without about 100 loaves of Poilâne’s walnut bread. It’s so good warm, with a pat of butter, or a smear of smelly cheese, or a dollop of loose preserves, or… you get the picture. I believe no Paris party can actually happen without piles of bread, including the walnut bread, as it’s a perfect foil for all that darn delicious wine.

Text and Photos by  Maggie Battista for Eat Boutique, and republished for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text and Photos by Wendy Lyn

As soon as the first “sapin de Noël” (Christmas tree) appears on the city sidewalks, I know that is my cue to go to the Poilâne bakery for the pretty all-natural shortbread cookie ornaments.

Parisians have adored this tiny shop since 1932, queing for buttery crossiants, apple tarts, shortbread cookies called “punitions,” walnut scones and boule miche breads made in the wood burning ovens downstairs. During Christmas, it is especially charming — practically raining cookies and tempting customers with heavenly aromas wafting out of the door.

To make the ornaments, shortbread dough is rolled out into large rounds, then a cookie cutter cuts out the shape of trees, leaves, moons, hearts and stars from the center. The larger round (with the shape cut out) and the smaller cut-out shape are punctured with holes so that they are both usable as ornaments. If you don’t live in Paris, these are easy enough to do chez vous, non?

Not only are they pretty to look at, they smell divine and are one-of-a-kind. The little sachet is a price-friendly 4.20€, but I had to buy two of them based on experience from years past… one for me, one for the tree. It just isn’t Christmas in Paris to me without them.

Poilâne Bakery, 8 rue du Cherche Midi, 6th, M° Sevres-Babylone or St. Sulpice. Closed Sunday.

Edited by Tory Hoen  for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text and photos by Heidi Swanson, 101 Cookbooks

It’s 5:45 in the morning, the sky is starting to glow ever so slightly near the horizon, and all is still and quiet outside. I’m sitting on my sofa wide awake. My body thinks it’s the middle of the day, and there is no way around it – I’m in for a couple more early mornings before I can shake this jet lag. So. I thought I’d make myself some tea, watch the sun come up, and take a bit of time to share my notes on Paris, before the details of this adventure start to slip my mind.

I mentioned a few weeks ago that Clotilde and I decided to swap apartments. She came to San Francisco while I went to Paris. Wayne and I spent ten days in Paris criss-crossing the city on foot and by subway, darting into patisseries, taking photographs, and sitting on benches in flower-lined city gardens. We ate well in Paris, and I found plenty to be inspired by in the little cafes serving up seasonal tarts, salads, crepes, and quiches.

Read the rest of Heidi’s post by clicking here.

Edited by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Photo: Louisa Chu

It’s easy to be jealous of David Lebovitz when you learn how he spends his days: spreading Bordier butter on toast, browsing through Paris’ open air markets, testing recipes, hopping in and out of bakeries and chocolate shops, trying the city’s numerous restaurants, and chronicling his delicious adventures in his books and on his blog, DavidLebovitz.com. Yes, it’s a sweet life, but someone’s gotta do it, and David Lebovitz had the foresight, motivation, and chutzpah to realize (early on) that that person should be him. His many fans would agree. After all, living vicariously through David’s blog is pretty sweet as well.

A former pastry chef who earned his stripes at Alice Waters’ famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, David left California in 2002 to pursue culinary adventures abroad. When he got to Paris, he continued work on his blog, which he had begun in 1999, long before blogging had become the phenomenon that it is today.

In addition to providing practical advice and information about the food scene in Paris, David’s blog is rife with his signature “sass,” and it is this sass that has earned him his reputation as one of Paris’ most prolific and entertaining food bloggers. At a recent book event in Paris, David listed some of the things he would miss if he had to move away from the City of Light. Among them: French butter, inexpensive-but-good wine, young men with impossibly small waistlines, and the individual’s inalienable right to cut in line (any line). Despite David’s unique perspective on Paris, his appeal extends far beyond the borders of this city, and as he continues to promote his newest book, The Sweet Life in Paris, it’s clear that his fan base stretches around the world.

Though he’s feverishly publicizing the book these days, he took a moment from his busy schedule to answer a few of HiP’s questions.

HiP: Why is blogging in Paris more fulfilling than it might be elsewhere?

DL: Because there’s so much life on the street, there’s so much material! Plus all the bakeries, ice cream shops, and chocolatiers provide endless fodder. Of course, the eccentricities of life here are fun to report on as well.

HiP: Do you have any other favorite “food cities” besides Paris?

DL: My favorites are Barcelona and San Francisco, (which I consider the best food city in the world in terms of ingredients that are available and the restaurants that highlight them in their cooking).

Photo DavidLebovitz.com

HiP: What’s the biggest “eating mistake” that visitors to Paris can make?

DL: Not making a reservation. Elsewhere it’s normal to just walk in and expect to get seated. Here, having a reservation is like being invited for dinner; when you walk in, you’ll get a much warmer welcome since they’re expecting you.

The other mistake is the kind of service that’s expected. In France, there aren’t waiters hovering every thirty seconds adding another 1/2 inch of water to your glass, nor are they breathing down your neck and grabbing your plate away before you’ve even finished your last mouthful. Some visitors think the lack of constant attention is bad service, but in fact, it’s nice to be left alone to dine with your friends. And when you want something, just flag down the waiter and ask.

HiP: Any up-and-coming Parisian food stars (chefs, bakers, bloggers) that you have your eye on?

DL: I don’t know about up-and-coming ones, but places I like are the new restaurant, Frenchie, whose chef-owner Gregory Marchand lived in New York and England. Daniel Rose at Spring is already well-known, but I admire him for creating his own niche here in Paris. And of course, Pierre Jancou at Racines is doing market-fresh foods without the pretense, and promoting natural wines.

HiP: Are there any particular Parisian neighborhoods that you think are particularly food “rich?”

DL: The 6th. It’s not my neighborhood, but it’s where the greatest concentration of top-notch pastry and chocolate shops tend to cluster. For restaurants, I’d say there’s no neighborhood in particular, but the better places are in the outlying arrondissements, since the rents are cheaper and the younger chefs, who are doing more interesting things usually, can be found there.

HiP: What’s your idea of the perfect food day in Paris?

DL: Espresso at Pozzetto, then eating a croissant from Au Levain du Marais in the Place des Vosges. Lunch of a sardine sandwich or chicken with garlic mayo at Cuisine de Bar next to Poilâne, then over to Grom on rue de Seine for lemon granita, then back to the Place des Vosges for dinner at L’Ambroisie. That, of course, is assuming that money is no object.

HiP: If you weren’t a chef and star blogger, what other career might you have liked to pursue?

DL: A psychiatrist, because I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time helping people with their problems.

If David decides to become a psychiatrist, we hope he’ll let us know. In the meantime, we’re content to drool over his culinary findings and laugh at the situations in which he finds himself. For David Lebvoitz, it’s a sweet life indeed.

Make sure to check out David’s blog here.