Maggie Battista

Let’s start with the chocolate mousse, that luscious mix of cream, sugar, cocoa and air. Only this mousse is featured in a chocolate mousse bar – that’s right, folks, an entire bar of mousses made from all different types of chocolate – that is scooped out by the spatula-full into a tiny paper cone (or into pint containers, if you’re so inclined). You gotta try this good stuff, made in a shop tucked away on a sleepy section of St. Germain. Chocolat Chapon is located at 69 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 42 22 95 98‎.

Erica Berman

If thick chocolate mousse is not quite your speed, try the best gelato in Paris. I waited in line for 30 minutes in order to spoon some creamy deliciousness from Pozzetto (39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Paris, Tel: 01 42 77 08 64‎) into my waiting belly. Well, I spooned it into my mouth and it traveled into my belly and… I loved it.

If sweets aren’t your thing, perhaps cheese is? It better be if you’re in Paris. And frankly, there isn’t anything better than a selection of cheeses from your local fromagerie, a fresh crispy baguette and a bottle of organic French wine. The moment you visit Paris, put the fancy restaurants on hold and gather supplies for your own makeshift picnic in your rented flat or hotel room. Make sure to choose a creamy cheese (brie or camembert), a fresh cheese (goat) and something stinky or blue. With a fresh baguette and an easy fruity red wine, a pile of local cheeses was my twice-weekly dinner in the city of lights, and I lost 20 pounds while abroad. Crazy, but so true, people.

Maggie Battista

If there’s one cheese you must try, do as David Lebovitz instructs all of his followers to do and pick up some of this legendary 30-month comte. It’s so good, it made two dinner guests almost cry at my dinner table. I swear it was the cheese and not any other part of the meal. (Or was it?!) I picked up my wedges at La Fermette at 86, rue Montorgueil 75001 Paris.

Maggie Battista

I don’t know about you, but I think cheese just goes beautifully with booze. Except on the first sunny day in Paris, which fortunately for me, hit the city on the day after my flight home was canceled. A friend helped me heal my sadness with a walk around the Marais, including a stop at a Chilean wine bar that serves a nice dry rose in a cute round glass. Le Cap Horn (8 Rue de Birague 75004 Paris) is not terribly impressive, but perfect for a quick afternoon break. That liquid courage motivated me to buy a much-desired handbag around the corner. Thanks, Le Cap Horn!

Maggie Battista

One of the first foods I craved when I got back to the States was any sort of Chinese food. I was dreaming of these beautiful sesame shrimp toasts I had enjoyed at a cocktail party in Paris. In fact, Chinese chef Vincent Wong (geezarwong@hotmail.com, Tel: 06 75 19 25 07, 01 30 33 55 95) cooked a banquet for 20 people at my Paris flat, and I can’t stop thinking about his sesame shrimp toasts. If you’re in Paris and need a banquet fit for true gourmands, just ring or email him. He’s sweet as… duck sauce.

Maggie Battista

If all this cheese and chocolate and sesame shrimp toasts have filled you up, head on over to Café des Musées (49 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris, Tel: 01 42 72 96 17) for their delicious vegetable dish. I took a serious vegetarian there and she was delighted with the staub pot filled with roasted root vegetables and topped with fresh salad greens. She felt stuffed but had more than enough room to eat more than half of our shared dessert. Thanks, sweetie. I forgive you.

Maggie Battista

Because you left plenty of champagne for me!

Maggie Battista

Written by Maggie Battista for Eat Boutique. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

There’s no doubt about it: Parisian kids have a good thing going on. They’re well-dressed, well-fed and, by virtue of being French, are destined for terminal coolness.

I used to spend afternoons at a little park in the 5^th where the same group of schoolchildren always had their post-lunch play hour. In retrospect, I probably looked incredibly creepy as I sat there observing them, but I was totally mesmerized by the scene: their demeanor (distinctly Parisian, but innocently so), their adorable school clothes, their clear, deliberate French. I’m convinced that Paris—with all of its sensory pleasures—would be a fascinating place to grow up.

Ktylerconk

But what about Paris for visiting kids? The things that draw adult tourists—leisurely meals, aimless wandering, antiquing, romantic strolls—are the stuff of nightmares for restless young kids. But fear not, parents! Familial bliss is easily attained in Paris if you take a few lessons from how the French entertain their own children. And of course, make sure to build the three essential elements—animals, activities and sugar—into your daily itineraries.

Erica Berman

Picnics—It’s a no-brainer, but picnics are a lovely way to enjoy Paris in a stress-free environment. And when you’re traveling with a large entourage, it’s a good way to preserve funds. Parks that have large expanses of grass for lounging include the Champs de Mars and the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. The quais of the Seine and the Pont des Arts—a pedestrian bridge—are also scenic places to park your crew for the afternoon.

Jardin du Luxembourg—This picturesque park is the epicenter of familial frivolity in Paris. Kids can sail miniature boats in the central fountain, ride very slow ponies in trees on the western side, and spend hours chasing each other around the winding paths in various corners of the park.

Jardin des Plantes—Should I be embarrassed to admit that this is one of my favorite places in Paris? There’s a menagerie full of exotic animals (including red pandas and wallabies), a natural history museum, a carousel and miles of trails where kids can run around until they collapse. (Bonus: post-park, have tea and Algerian pastries at the Mosquee de Paris’ gorgeous tea salon, located right across from the Jardin’s southern entrance).

Tuileries—This stately garden has an area where there are a bunch of activities for kids, including a carousel and mini-trampolines. There’s a nearby café in the gardens where you can refresh after all the action. (Enter mid-garden near Metro Louvre-Rivoli on Line 1).

Titlap

Deyrolle—Most Parisians have vivid childhood memories of Deyrolle, which is part-store, part-museum, part crazy fantasy. It is home to hundreds of taxidermy animals, including a full-sized giraffe, zebra and grizzly bear. Be prepared for your kid to become obsessed with owning one of these things—and they don’t come cheap. (I believe the polar bear costs 24,000 EUR. But to own a polar bear… what bliss!)

Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature (Hunting and Wildlife Museum)—Animal lovers will also get a kick out of this museum, which houses oodles of taxidermy and trophies of exotic animals, alongside various hunting weapons (for the boys) and paintings by Rubens and other noteworthy artists (for their parents).

Erica Berman

Toy Stores—Parisian toy stores are (mercifully) about as far from Toys’R’Us as you can get. They’re full of wooden objects, unique dolls and “wholesome” toys that might actually make your kid smarter. L’Oiseau de Paradis store has multiple locations and is a good place to start.

Candy from Le Bonbon au Palais— This gorgeous candy boutique is as enjoyable for parents as it is for kids. The first time I walked by, I assumed it was a fancy home goods shop. Much to my delight, the dainty glass containers are actually full of artisanal, old-fashioned candy. Check out their drool-inducing video here.

Hot Chocolate—The ultimate remedy for any cranky child, and also an acceptable breakfast food in Paris. Head to La Charlotte en L’Ile for decadent hot chocolate in a cozy setting, or hit up Pozzetto for a sinfully rich afternoon fix.

Erica Berman

Gelato / Ice Cream—Paris knows how to do frozen desserts right. Berthillon (found throughout the city but most notably at cafes on the Ile St. Louis) is a local favorite. But of late, gelato from Pozzetto is all the rage, and Gelati d’Alberto stole my heart when it moved in near my old apartment. (They even mold the gelato into the shape of a flower). David Lebovitz gives a great rundown on Paris’ frozen food scene here.

Beyond that, enjoy, explore, and take advantage of the opportunity soak up Paris at a kid’s pace. For more ideas, check out:

• Delicious Baby
• The Washington Post
• Travel for Kids

Written by Tory Hoen,  for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Text and photos by Heidi Swanson, 101 Cookbooks

It’s 5:45 in the morning, the sky is starting to glow ever so slightly near the horizon, and all is still and quiet outside. I’m sitting on my sofa wide awake. My body thinks it’s the middle of the day, and there is no way around it – I’m in for a couple more early mornings before I can shake this jet lag. So. I thought I’d make myself some tea, watch the sun come up, and take a bit of time to share my notes on Paris, before the details of this adventure start to slip my mind.

I mentioned a few weeks ago that Clotilde and I decided to swap apartments. She came to San Francisco while I went to Paris. Wayne and I spent ten days in Paris criss-crossing the city on foot and by subway, darting into patisseries, taking photographs, and sitting on benches in flower-lined city gardens. We ate well in Paris, and I found plenty to be inspired by in the little cafes serving up seasonal tarts, salads, crepes, and quiches.

Read the rest of Heidi’s post by clicking here.

Edited by Tory Hoen for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Photo: Louisa Chu

It’s easy to be jealous of David Lebovitz when you learn how he spends his days: spreading Bordier butter on toast, browsing through Paris’ open air markets, testing recipes, hopping in and out of bakeries and chocolate shops, trying the city’s numerous restaurants, and chronicling his delicious adventures in his books and on his blog, DavidLebovitz.com. Yes, it’s a sweet life, but someone’s gotta do it, and David Lebovitz had the foresight, motivation, and chutzpah to realize (early on) that that person should be him. His many fans would agree. After all, living vicariously through David’s blog is pretty sweet as well.

A former pastry chef who earned his stripes at Alice Waters’ famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, David left California in 2002 to pursue culinary adventures abroad. When he got to Paris, he continued work on his blog, which he had begun in 1999, long before blogging had become the phenomenon that it is today.

In addition to providing practical advice and information about the food scene in Paris, David’s blog is rife with his signature “sass,” and it is this sass that has earned him his reputation as one of Paris’ most prolific and entertaining food bloggers. At a recent book event in Paris, David listed some of the things he would miss if he had to move away from the City of Light. Among them: French butter, inexpensive-but-good wine, young men with impossibly small waistlines, and the individual’s inalienable right to cut in line (any line). Despite David’s unique perspective on Paris, his appeal extends far beyond the borders of this city, and as he continues to promote his newest book, The Sweet Life in Paris, it’s clear that his fan base stretches around the world.

Though he’s feverishly publicizing the book these days, he took a moment from his busy schedule to answer a few of HiP’s questions.

HiP: Why is blogging in Paris more fulfilling than it might be elsewhere?

DL: Because there’s so much life on the street, there’s so much material! Plus all the bakeries, ice cream shops, and chocolatiers provide endless fodder. Of course, the eccentricities of life here are fun to report on as well.

HiP: Do you have any other favorite “food cities” besides Paris?

DL: My favorites are Barcelona and San Francisco, (which I consider the best food city in the world in terms of ingredients that are available and the restaurants that highlight them in their cooking).

Photo DavidLebovitz.com

HiP: What’s the biggest “eating mistake” that visitors to Paris can make?

DL: Not making a reservation. Elsewhere it’s normal to just walk in and expect to get seated. Here, having a reservation is like being invited for dinner; when you walk in, you’ll get a much warmer welcome since they’re expecting you.

The other mistake is the kind of service that’s expected. In France, there aren’t waiters hovering every thirty seconds adding another 1/2 inch of water to your glass, nor are they breathing down your neck and grabbing your plate away before you’ve even finished your last mouthful. Some visitors think the lack of constant attention is bad service, but in fact, it’s nice to be left alone to dine with your friends. And when you want something, just flag down the waiter and ask.

HiP: Any up-and-coming Parisian food stars (chefs, bakers, bloggers) that you have your eye on?

DL: I don’t know about up-and-coming ones, but places I like are the new restaurant, Frenchie, whose chef-owner Gregory Marchand lived in New York and England. Daniel Rose at Spring is already well-known, but I admire him for creating his own niche here in Paris. And of course, Pierre Jancou at Racines is doing market-fresh foods without the pretense, and promoting natural wines.

HiP: Are there any particular Parisian neighborhoods that you think are particularly food “rich?”

DL: The 6th. It’s not my neighborhood, but it’s where the greatest concentration of top-notch pastry and chocolate shops tend to cluster. For restaurants, I’d say there’s no neighborhood in particular, but the better places are in the outlying arrondissements, since the rents are cheaper and the younger chefs, who are doing more interesting things usually, can be found there.

HiP: What’s your idea of the perfect food day in Paris?

DL: Espresso at Pozzetto, then eating a croissant from Au Levain du Marais in the Place des Vosges. Lunch of a sardine sandwich or chicken with garlic mayo at Cuisine de Bar next to Poilâne, then over to Grom on rue de Seine for lemon granita, then back to the Place des Vosges for dinner at L’Ambroisie. That, of course, is assuming that money is no object.

HiP: If you weren’t a chef and star blogger, what other career might you have liked to pursue?

DL: A psychiatrist, because I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time helping people with their problems.

If David decides to become a psychiatrist, we hope he’ll let us know. In the meantime, we’re content to drool over his culinary findings and laugh at the situations in which he finds himself. For David Lebvoitz, it’s a sweet life indeed.

Make sure to check out David’s blog here.

Photo Erica Berman

Despite my recent tirade and blog post ranting about the poor quality of coffee in France, I am pleased to announce that I recently had a fabulous cup of coffee in Paris. It was a coffee surprisingly worthy of any I have had in Italy, right in the heart of the Marais! Last Saturday after being jostled about in the Merci boutique (had to check it out – and found it overrated, overpriced, and overcrowded even if for a good cause, but lovely!) my friend Francoise and I made our way to the Marais and ended up at Pozzetto gelateria on rue du Roi de Sicile.

Francoise ordered a chocolat chaud con panna, (hot chocolate with whipped cream) so thick she had to eat it with a spoon, and I ordered a marocchino con panna (basically a small cappuccino with warm chocolate sauce and homemade whipped cream).  Next time I will have to try an expresso or plain cappuccino to see how they hold up, but I am not sure I will be able to resist the lure of the perfect marocchino! The homemade gelato is also wonderful, the staff are all Italian and friendly, and I can’t wait to return. There is a 2nd Pozzetto on rue des Levis in the 17th, I may just have to walk on over from my flat in Montmartre . . .  tomorrow?

Photo courtesy of www.lauraflorand.com

Pozzetto – 39, rue du Roi de Sicile Paris 4eme Metro St Paul or Hotel de Ville
21, rue de Levis Paris 17eme Metro Villiers

http://pozzetto.biz/