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Getting Paris Right the First Time

We've asked journalist, podcaster, and Paris dweller Oliver Gee to share his advice on how to pull of the perfect first trip to Paris.Grant Lemons

Editor’s Note: Memories of a first trip to Paris never fade. The indelible experience of discovering one of the world’s most beautiful cities unfailingly leaves its mark. No matter what you do, once you’ve seen Paris it will never leave you. Having said that, there are ways to approach your first time to Paris that will assure you get the most out of the experience and guarantee a maximum of memories you’ll hold dear for years after your first steps on Paris’ cobblestone streets. We’ve asked journalist, podcaster, and Paris dweller Oliver Gee to share his advice on how to pull off the perfect first trip to Paris. Happy reading.

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Posted in Parisian Living, Travel | No Comments »

Hardware Société: Paris’ Newest Australian-Breakfast Import

Hardware Societe, Australian Breakfast arrives in Montmartre

Emily Dilling

When the Australian café-inspired restaurant Holybelly opened in the 10th arrondissement, it revolutionized morning meals in Paris. The all-day breakfast menu, which combined classic eggs and sides with more refined seasonal mains, was the first of its kind in a city where breakfasts are continental and Anglo-inspired dining often fail to inspire.

Three years later and people still line up at Holybelly’s doors before opening, waiting to taste the new monthly menu, come back for their favorite permanent menu classics, or enjoy the special weekend menu. Despite the restaurant’s rampant success and the undeniable demand for the a solid breakfast joint in Paris, Holybelly remains an anomaly in the bacon-and-eggs breakfast scene. At least, until recently.

Hardware Societe, Australian Breakfast arrives in Montmartre

Hardware SociétéIthaa Li

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 2 Comments »

My Montmartre: Food, Coffee, Shopping & More

Montmartre Roundup

I have a confession to make. Even though I’ve spent a good portion of my adult life exploring Paris, I’d never dedicated ample time to discovering Montmartre. Sure, I’d seen all the “must-see” spots – I had climbed the endless steps to Sacré-Coeur, bought a still-wet canvas at Place du Tetre, gazed upon the moulins, and even visited Amélie’s favorite spots. However, it wasn’t until this past trip that I truly experienced the neighborhood (thanks to a stay at this incredible apartment), and subsequently fell in love with it. Here are my favorite addresses for an ideal day touring the famed butte.

Montmartre RoundupMontmartre Roundup

Cafe Marlette, Cuillier

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Posted in Reader Tips & Reviews, Restaurant Reviews | 2 Comments »

Stories of Love in Paris: Happy Valentine’s Day!

Romantic Paris: Celebrate Valentine's Day in the City of Love with Selections from

There’s no question that the city of Paris exudes and encourages love, in its many forms. This passion can manifest any time of year, but it’s certainly intensified around Valentine’s Day. This year, the theme of this varied amour is explored in many of the pieces in the new anthology, That’s Paris, a lovely collection of short stories. With an entertaining forward by Stephen Clarke of A Year in the Merde fame, the 24 fun, funny, and touching pieces of both fact and fiction are organized in sections ranging from, “What’s Love Got to Do with It” to “Becoming Parisian.” In celebration of Valentine’s Day, we’re going to visit some of the city’s most romantically charged locations through a selection of the works from the book.

Romantic Paris: Celebrate Valentine's Day in the City of Love with Selections from

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Posted in Parisian Living | 7 Comments »

Lights, Camera, Action! Five Unmissable Parisian Movie Houses

HiP Paris Blog, Movie Houses, Briag Courteaux, STUDIO 28-30

In France, cinema is the 7th art, as important as painting or literature, and like museums or libraries, movie houses play a key role in local culture. Netflix has not yet come up the Seine, and according to the Office de Tourisme there are 84 theaters in Paris with well over 350 screens. Going to the movies is an important activity for Parisians who often spend their Monday mornings discussing the films they took in over the weekend. There are remarkable theaters across the city, but the movie houses below offer audiences more than just a film.

HiP Paris Blog, Movie Houses, Briag Courteaux, rex 23, scope briag

Le Louxor

Le Louxor is an opulent 1920s architectural gem studded with Neo-Egyptian motifs and gilded mosaics. Recently renovated, the cinema screens modern blockbusters, but also houses an art gallery space and a stylish Art Deco bar with a view of Sacré-Coeur. Once a month they feature the Université Populaire, a screening of a movie that has been chosen by a local celebrity who leads a discussion following the screening.

HiP Paris Blog, Movie Houses, Briag Courteaux, luxor 31, 22

HiP Paris Blog, Movie Houses, Briag Courteaux, LOUXOR-33 Continue Reading »

Posted in Arts, Parisian Living | No Comments »

La Goutte D’Or: Paris’ Eccentric, Lively, Diverse Up-and-Coming Neighborhood

HiP Paris Blog, Emily Dilling La Goutte D'Or Palmyre Roigt La MomeLa Mome

There are few things in the world that make me happier than living in the 18th arrondissement. One could argue that it’s pretty great living anywhere in Paris, but there’s something about this quartier that has my heart forever. From the cinematic charm of Montmartre to the seductive side streets found beyond the Butte, this corner of of the city is full of friendly neighborhood addresses, unique boutiques, and rich cultural diversity.

HiP Paris Blog Emily Dilling La Goutte D'Or Palmyre Roigt Marche de Barbes

Marche de Barbes

With the recent renovation of Le Louxor cinema (whose rooftop café offers magnificent views of the Sacré-Coeur) increasing amounts of visitors are venturing to the foot of Boulevard Barbès, the entryway to the Goutte d’Or neighborhood. With its mosques, African markets, and North African pastry shops, this diverse and lively area has recently emerged as the city’s most eccentric up-and-coming neighborhood.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Sacré-Coeur; Marche Dejean

Probably the most emblematic address of the Goutte d’Or is Thierry Roche’s Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or. Opened in 2012, the brasserie boasts the title of the city’s first microbrewery and has set an example for Ile-de-France brewers and Paris craft beer bars alike. Thierry takes inspiration from the diverse culture of the Goutte d’Or, using ingredients such a rooibus and kola nut in his beers, which can be found at nearby outdoor markets.

Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 7Marche de Barbes; Montmartre (Sacré-Coeur in the distance)

If you’re interested in finding your own inspiration at the market, visit Marché Dejean near the metro Chateau Rouge, rue Dejean. Open Tuesday to Saturday mornings, this chaotic jumble of a market is stuffed with overflowing baskets of exotic foods, fish heads, and cell phones of dubious origin. Get everything you need for a Senegalese feast or Cameroon cuisine. Here bartering is encouraged and the overall ambiance of the market transports you to another part of the world.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Marche Dejean

Get cosy with local shoppers and squeeze your way through Marché Barbès (Bld de la Chapelle, metro La Chapelle) on Wednesday or Saturday morning. Standard market stands such as fishmongers and cheese sellers are in the minority at this busy market, which reflects the ethnic diversity of the area. North African breads and pastries, inexpensive produce from abroad, mangoes and other foreign fruits lend an exotic air to this market, which draws deal seekers and tourists alike. An overwhelming aroma of mint accompanies your visit to Marché Barbès as you pass by piles of herbs and spices and items that likely “fell off a truck” before making it to the market.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 6

La Louve Coopérative

Goutte d’Or is about to welcome a unique new market to its collection. Just down the street from the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or is the future site of La Louve Coopérative, a Park Slope Food Coop inspired project set to open in June 2015. Watch this space for more information on this exciting addition to the list of “bio” shops in Paris.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 2Adonde

In the meandering side streets around the historic Eglise Saint-Bernard de la Chapelle, you’ll find a selection of boutiques and bars that are a testament to the transformation of the neighborhood. Design team Cocobohème has their studio and showcase on rue de Jessaint, where you can shop for unique home decor, children’s clothes and toys, and handmade jewelry and accessories.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Cocoboheme

If you need a drink break after a day of shopping, pop into Le Tout Monde, a perfect spot for a pit stop and some small plates paired with natural wine. Recently open for lunch, keep this bar in mind for a break between boutiques or before a beer tasting!

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HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 4
HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Le Tout Monde 1
HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Le Tout Monde 2

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris


Coco Boheme; Le Tout Monde; La Mome

For a proper sit down meal of tagine and mint tea, head to neighborhood favorite La Môme (16 rue Stephenson). An extensive menu of African specialties offers something for everyone (there’s even a vegetarian tagine option). Don’t miss out on the specialty La Môme beer that the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or made especially for the restaurant!

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Mome

If you’re weary of running around the city, opt for an indulgent afternoon and head to Azhar Hammam & Spa an affordable and authentic option for a traditional hammam experience. Enjoy a steam, massage, or mani-pedi that will refresh and restore, leaving you ready to explore some more!

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Eglise Saint Bernard

The constantly growing scene of creative commerce and collaborations makes the Goutte d’Or neighborhood one to watch. Whether sipping on locally brewed beer or natural wine, catching a matinée, or shopping for unique handmade gifts, be sure to take pause and soak up the energy of one of the city’s most vibrant and swiftly changing neighborhoods.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Hammam AzharHammam Azhar
  • Le Louxor – 170 Boulevard Magenta, 75010 Paris. Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 63 96 96
  • La Louve Cooperative – 61 rue de la Goutte D’Or, 75018 Paris.
  • Cocoboheme – 22 rue Jessaint, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 62 40 60
  • Le Tout Monde – 4 rue Affre, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 54 29 51
  • Le Mome – 16 Rue Stephenson, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 23 35 64
  • Azhar Hammam & Spa – 59 rue Stephenson, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 58 02 02

Related links:

Written by Emily Dilling for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Palmyre Roigt. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

 

Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Shopping | 4 Comments »

Falling In Love With Paris In a Day

Carin Olsson

Paris. The city of romance. With picturesque cafes on almost every corner, countless bridges crossing the Seine begging for twilight strolls and stolen glances, architecture that dazzles for days, and the omnipresent accordion harking back to sweeter, slower days, how could you not fall in love? In a day no less. And we’re not talking about the dashing young men in lively conversation over espressos. You’re falling in love with no one other than yourself. Here is our guide to romancing yourself in the city of Light.

Stephane

9am. To the heart by way of the stomach. Begin your day with a croissant or pain au chocolat still warm from the oven from a local boulangerie. For the best pastries Paris has to offer, head to Le Grenier a Pain, strategically scattered throughout the city. I recommend the Montmartre location, which won the award for best baguette in 2010! Continue Reading »

Posted in Parisian Living | 20 Comments »

Paris Tourist Scams: HiP Tips For A Hassle-Free Trip

Flickr Esellee Esellee

I was lucky enough to live in Paris earlier this year. During my time in one of the fairest cities, I soaked up the language, tossed back (a few too) many glasses of red and practically inhaled the food. I also wandered, a lot. I’m the sort of tourist who likes to explore the nooks and crannies, those precious spots that are forgotten on a map but hold a special magic beyond the typical grand Paris sites.

Oh, I did fit in the requisite amount of “grand” though. Naturellement! I was a trooper, performing my tourist duty by visiting all of the major Parisian landmarks, leaving my gasps and wishes in the same spots you likely did. I gazed at the Eiffel Tower and marveled at the views from both Sacré-Coeur (très vaste) and the Centre Pompidou (très spécial). I even strolled down Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, a street speckled with bright shop windows that are filled with tiny sparkling items more valuable than my not-as-tiny house in the States.

I saw it all, hoping I blended in among the fashionable locals but knowing deep down, way deep down, that I still looked like the typical tourist – wide-eyed, a bit awestruck, mouth permanently agape, cheeks flushed from all the wine, and generally feeling quite blessed and lucky.

Paris-Tourist-Scams-Eiffel-Tower-Vendors-2
Supagroova,Katifisch

Alas, all that wine blushing up my skin totally gave me away. While I was living in a dream, a few unsavory locals easily spotted my tourist moves (you know, the wide-eyes, mouth agape, flushed cheeks) and attempted to weasel me with their foolish scams. I was forewarned by local friends and, fortunately, able to avoid the embarrassment. Many of my tourist brethren were not so lucky.

Luck, however, is on your side. I watched, appalled, as each tourist, high on the city of lights, repeatedly fell for scam after scam. I’m busting out the scams I discovered here so you don’t have to succumb to their same fate.

First and foremost, you must remember this key piece of information on your next stroll through central Paris: No one would sell you a real gold ring for 10 Euros. Not in Paris. Not anywhere. Not even your real grandmother would sell you a piece of 18-karat gold for 10 Euros. Just wouldn’t happen.

So when your sweet Parisian fairy godmother or godfather finds a pretty gold ring at your very feet, they’ll explain how they’re certain it belongs to you. When you insist that it isn’t, which naturally you will, they’ll start raving about how genuine the ring is and how they’ll be only too glad to sell it to you for whatever you’re willing to pay. Two words: Don’t pay. In fact, don’t bother. Just perfect a très Parisian scowl and move right on along. If they persist, shout at them, preferably in French, and, remarkably, they will vanish. Continue Reading »

Posted in Travel | 22 Comments »

New Year’s Eve in Paris: Ring in 2010 in Style

moulin rouge dancersBackstage at the Moulin Rouge. Photo: arras-france.com

What are you doing for New Year’s Eve? This recurring question inevitably divides the population into two camps: those who want to hit the streets and party ‘til the break of dawn, and those who would prefer to hibernate at home until the mayhem subsides. Happily, there are plenty of options for both the revelers and the hibernators (and for those who fall somewhere in between).  If you’re lucky enough to be ringing in 2010 in Paris, we have some ideas for you! Continue Reading »

Posted in Events, Parisian Living | 1 Comment »