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La Table de Cybèle: Fresh and Local Dining in Boulogne

HiP Paris Blog, Table de Cybele, Palmyre Roigt -3

It’s seems that Boulogne, a relatively staid suburb of Paris, is becoming spunkier as a different breed of establishment seems to be seeping into the area. Concept stores, pizza joints with NYC aspirations, a combo cookie shop/tattoo parlor and the like are making a bit of a buzz that has caused some to liken the area to the “Brooklyn of Paris.”

HiP Paris Blog, Table de Cybele, Palmyre Roigt-4

Never having lived in Brooklyn, but being very aware of its use as a trendy descriptor (one of which I’ve been guilty myself), I asked friends who have lived both in Paris and New York for their take on this latest cultural comparison. I received some interesting and enlightening responses like: “Boulogne is by no stretch of the imagination ‘The New Brooklyn.’ One might, with a little reach, say it is trying to become Williamsburg-wanna-be-sur-Seine.”

HiP Paris Blog, Table de Cybele, Palmyre Roigt-1 Continue Reading »

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La Goutte D’Or: Paris’ Eccentric, Lively, Diverse Up-and-Coming Neighborhood

HiP Paris Blog, Emily Dilling La Goutte D'Or Palmyre Roigt La MomeLa Mome

There are few things in the world that make me happier than living in the 18th arrondissement. One could argue that it’s pretty great living anywhere in Paris, but there’s something about this quartier that has my heart forever. From the cinematic charm of Montmartre to the seductive side streets found beyond the Butte, this corner of of the city is full of friendly neighborhood addresses, unique boutiques, and rich cultural diversity.

HiP Paris Blog Emily Dilling La Goutte D'Or Palmyre Roigt Marche de Barbes

Marche de Barbes

With the recent renovation of Le Louxor cinema (whose rooftop café offers magnificent views of the Sacre Coeur) increasing amounts of visitors are venturing to the foot of Boulevard Barbès, the entryway to the Goutte d’Or neighborhood. With its mosques, African markets, and North African pastry shops, this diverse and lively area has recently emerged as the city’s most eccentric up-and-coming neighborhood.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Sacre CoeurHiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Marche Dejean 1

Sacre Coeur; Marche Dejean

Probably the most emblematic address of the Goutte d’Or is Thierry Roche’s Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or. Opened in 2012, the brasserie boasts the title of the city’s first microbrewery and has set an example for Ile-de-France brewers and Paris craft beer bars alike. Thierry takes inspiration from the diverse culture of the Goutte d’Or, using ingredients such a rooibus and kola nut in his beers, which can be found at nearby outdoor markets.

Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 7Marche de Barbes; Montmartre (Sacre Coeur in the distance)

If you’re interested in finding your own inspiration at the market, visit Marché Dejean near the metro Chateau Rouge, rue Dejean. Open Tuesday to Saturday mornings, this chaotic jumble of a market is stuffed with overflowing baskets of exotic foods, fish heads, and cell phones of dubious origin. Get everything you need for a Senegalese feast or Cameroon cuisine. Here bartering is encouraged and the overall ambiance of the market transports you to another part of the world.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Marche Dejean 2

Marche Dejean

Get cosy with local shoppers and squeeze your way through Marché Barbès (Bld de la Chapelle, metro La Chapelle) on Wednesday or Saturday morning. Standard market stands such as fishmongers and cheese sellers are in the minority at this busy market, which reflects the ethnic diversity of the area. North African breads and pastries, inexpensive produce from abroad, mangoes and other foreign fruits lend an exotic air to this market, which draws deal seekers and tourists alike. An overwhelming aroma of mint accompanies your visit to Marché Barbès as you pass by piles of herbs and spices and items that likely “fell off a truck” before making it to the market.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Louve Cooperative 2HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Louve Cooperative 1HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 6La Louve Cooperative (bottom left: Le Tout Monde)

Goutte d’Or is about to welcome a unique new market to its collection. Just down the street from the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or is the future site of La Louve Coopérative, a Park Slope Food Coop inspired project set to open in June 2015. Watch this space for more information on this exciting addition to the list of “bio” shops in Paris.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 2Adonde

In the meandering side streets around the historic Eglise Saint-Bernard de la Chapelle, you’ll find a selection of boutiques and bars that are a testament to the transformation of the neighborhood. Design team Cocobohème has their studio and showcase on rue de Jessaint, where you can shop for unique home decor, children’s clothes and toys, and handmade jewelry and accessories.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Cocoboheme 2HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Cocoboheme 3

Cocoboheme

If you need a drink break after a day of shopping, pop into Le Tout Monde, a perfect spot for a pit stop and some small plates paired with natural wine. Recently open for lunch, keep this bar in mind for a break between boutiques or before a beer tasting!

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 3HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 4HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Le Tout Monde 1HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Le Tout Monde 2HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Mome 3Coco Boheme; Le Tout Monde; La Mome

For a proper sit down meal of tagine and mint tea, head to neighborhood favorite La Môme (16 rue Stephenson). An extensive menu of African specialties offers something for everyone (there’s even a vegetarian tagine option). Don’t miss out on the specialty La Môme beer that the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or made especially for the restaurant!

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Mome 1HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Mome 2HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Mome 4HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Mome 6HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, La Mome 7La Mome

If you’re weary of running around the city, opt for an indulgent afternoon and head to Azhar Hammam & Spa an affordable and authentic option for a traditional hammam experience. Enjoy a steam, massage, or mani-pedi that will refresh and restore, leaving you ready to explore some more!

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Eglise St Bernard 1Eglise Saint Bernard

The constantly growing scene of creative commerce and collaborations makes the Goutte d’Or neighborhood one to watch. Whether sipping on locally brewed beer or natural wine, catching a matinée, or shopping for unique handmade gifts, be sure to take pause and soak up the energy of one of the city’s most vibrant and swiftly changing neighborhoods.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Hammam AzharHammam Azhar
  • Le Louxor – 170 Boulevard Magenta, 75010 Paris. Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 63 96 96
  • La Louve Cooperative – 61 rue de la Goutte D’Or, 75018 Paris.
  • Cocoboheme – 22 rue Jessaint, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 62 40 60
  • Le Tout Monde – 4 rue Affre, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 54 29 51
  • Le Mome – 16 Rue Stephenson, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 23 35 64
  • Azhar Hammam & Spa – 59 rue Stephenson, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 58 02 02

Related links:

Written by Emily Dilling for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Palmyre Roigt. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

 

Posted in Food, Parisian Living, Shopping | 4 Comments »

Your French Wine Guide: Affordable Wines of Burgundy

Affordable Wines of Burgundy, Domaine Chandon de Briailles, HiP Paris Blog, Photo by Casey Hatfield

Domaine Chandon de Briailles

Burgundy is home to some of the most rare and expensive wine in the world. Though prices have gone up significantly in recent years, this wine region is not just for the 1 percent. There are still many great deals to be had if you know where to look.

Affordable Wines of Burgundy, HiP Paris Blog, Photo by Marcus Hansson, Will Keightley

Marcus Hansson & Will Keightley

Background
Burgundy is divided into five wine producing regions. The most famous part, the Côte d’Or, starts just south of Dijon and includes the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. The Côte de Nuits typically produces the best reds and the Côte de Beaune the best whites.

Affordable Wines of Burgundy, Chateau de Chamilly, HiP Paris Blog, Photo by Casey Hatfield

Chateau de Chamilly

Burgundy produces primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but the lesser-known white Aligoté and the fruity Gamay (if you include Beaujolais in the region, which is often up for debate) are also grown. Continue Reading »

Posted in Wine | 3 Comments »

It’s Not Just A Man’s World: A Closer Look At Women and Wine in Burgundy

Women of Burgundy, HiP Paris Blog, Photo by Casey Hatfield

Cristina Otel (Casey Hatfield)

Although the world of wine has long been a men’s game (with a couple notable exceptions), women are increasingly playing greater roles in winemaking around the world.

Women of Burgundy, HiP Paris Blog, Photo by Mugneret-gibourg.com

Mugneret-Gibourg

Perhaps nowhere are they having more of an impact than in the Burgundy region of France, where it seems women own many of the best and most prestigious domaines. The region, whose wines are often described as elegant and subtle, seems well suited to a woman’s touch. Here are some of the women who are making Burgundy tick. Just don’t call their wines feminine.

Women of Burgundy, HiP Paris Blog, Photo by Mugneret-gibourg.com

Mugneret-Gibourg

The female winemakers association of Burgundy, Femmes & Vins De Bourgogne, is about 40 members strong. For the first time, the Director of the Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne is a woman; but to the women of Burgundy, this is not really news. “I don’t think you make a better wine if you are a man or a woman, “ said Caroline Parent-Gros, the daughter of winery owner Anne-Francois Gros “you have to understand it.” Continue Reading »

Posted in Travel, Wine | No Comments »

Paris Wine Company: Josh Adler Delivers Artisanal French Wines To Your Door

HiP Paris Blog, Ruth Flickr, chatirygirl, Paris Wine Club

Ruthhb & Chatiryworld

Wouldn’t it be great to jump on a plane and travel to France at a moment’s notice? To leisurely explore the country’s regions and get a better understanding of its varied terroir?

HiP Paris Blog, lgh75, Paris Wine Clublgh75

While a spontaneous flight may not be realistic, it is possible to travel the country by glass, all from the comfort of home, with a little help from the Paris Wine Company.

HiP Paris Blog, Julien Hausherr, Verjus Wine Bar, Paris Wine Club 4Verjus wine bar (Julien Hausherr )

I last ran into Josh Adler, creator and owner of the Paris Wine Company, several months ago at a favorite wine bar, Verjus.  Continue Reading »

Posted in Parisian Living, Shopping, Wine | 3 Comments »

Choosing Cheap Wine in Paris: 5 Things You Need To Know

Carin Olsson

I have a friend who goes to the supermarket with a set budget and sensible shopping list.

Not me. I’m a marketers dream. Bright packets of budget biscuits jump into my basket; heavily reduced items beseech me to take them home.

Carin Olsson

You can’t even imagine what I’m like in the wine section. In Paris, the shelves are lined with pretty, shockingly cheap bottles of vin. I stumble between reds from Bordeaux, sweet whites from Alsace, and row upon row of cerise coloured rosés from Provence.

Play See Feel Live & Chatirygirl & Scpgt

There is an overwhelming selection of cheap wines to choose from. My schoolgirl French does not serve me well in decoding their sexy, enticing  labels. I lunge at the looming wall of indistinguishable wines and pick a bottle based on its price-bracket and whether or not the label features a château. On the way home, I wonder if my wine will double as a paint-thinner. Continue Reading »

Posted in Parisian Living | 10 Comments »

L’Office: A Delicious Paris Neo-Bistro in the 9th

L’Office owner Charles Compagnon

Coming off a string of mediocre Paris meals, I was less then lukewarm about heading out to, yet another Paris neo-bistro. Anticipating haughty service and below average food at a high price in banal ambiance, I almost bowed out of my recent girl’s night out at L’Office.

Going into this meal with a bad attitude and a hungry tummy, disappointment seemed imminent.

What a pleasure it was to be proven wrong, and how so! l’Office may just be my new French ‘go to’ restaurant for tasty food, in a mellow setting with adorable service. Continue Reading »

Posted in Restaurant Reviews | 5 Comments »

Slow, Simple and Delicious at Le Chapeau Melon

Julien Hausherr

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve left a quirky store or hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Paris and thought, “How does that place stay in business?” And I mean that as the highest compliment.

While commerce in the rest of the world seems to be accelerating at a highly unpleasant rate, Parisian proprietors, on the other hand, know how to slow down—and still manage to survive.

Julien Hausherr

Olivier Camus’ Le Chapeau Melon is one such place. I first visited three years ago, just after I moved to Paris. The warm reception, perfect filet de boeuf, and eye-opening bottle of Morgon solidified my notion that I had come to the right city.

When I finally returned this spring, I was reminded all over again why Paris is the best place to eat in the world: nothing had changed. And rightly so—why mess with a good thing?

Julien Hausherr

Camus (who is also involved with foodie hub Le Baratin, just up the street from Le Chapeau Melon in Belleville) is known as one of Paris’ most dedicated cavistes and as an early proponent of the natural wine movement that is now sweeping the city. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 9 Comments »

Go Organic in Paris

Guest Blogger, Laura, from the super cool blog My Mélange has shared her favorite organic hotspots in the city of lights. With more and more need to pay attention to the environment, we thank My Mélange for sharing these wonderful organic markets, restaurants and shops for us to explore. Let us know your Paris organic favorites to add to the list. Thanks!

Erica salad in MontmartreErica Berman

These days it’s all about going green, natural, organic, or anything else that is friendly to the environment (and to our bodies).  When you’re home, it’s easy to support local farms through farmers’ markets or buy organic goods from the supermarket, but traveling internationally could pose a threat to your health-conscious lifestyle and eating habits…unless you know where to go to find organic products and eco-friendly services.

In 2009, with the help of President Nicholas Sarkozy, Paris became proactive in supporting organic agriculture.   The government cut subsidies given to large farms and redirected the financial aid to smaller organic and family owned farms.  Paris has been the center of these organic or biologique (or bio) changes and boasts a number of successful organic and natural supermarkets, bakeries, restaurants, wine shops, and even hotels.

Little Brown Pen  GreenLittle Brown Pen

For those of you lucky enough to rent an apartment and enjoy an extended stay in The City of Light, grocery shopping is a must. Biocoop and Naturalia are two organic supermarkets in the Paris region.  Continue Reading »

Posted in Food, Green, Parisian Living | 8 Comments »

Paris Foods You Must Eat – Part 2

I miss Paris – the gorgeous gray buildings, the bridges over that little river, the cranky taxi drivers. Oh, let’s be real for a moment; I miss the food more than anything else. And since my initial post on Paris Foods You Must Eat (part 1) did so well, I thought an encore was in order.

Maggie Battista - Chocolate Mousse ParisMaggie Battista

Let’s start with the chocolate mousse, that luscious mix of cream, sugar, cocoa and air. Only this mousse is featured in a chocolate mousse bar – that’s right, folks, an entire bar of mousses made from all different types of chocolate – that is scooped out by the spatula-full into a tiny paper cone (or into pint containers, if you’re so inclined). You gotta try this good stuff, made in a shop tucked away on a sleepy section of St. Germain. Chocolat Chapon is located at 69 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 42 22 95 98‎.

Erica Berman - PozzettoErica Berman

If thick chocolate mousse is not quite your speed, try the best gelato in Paris. I waited in line for 30 minutes in order to spoon some creamy deliciousness from Pozzetto (39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Paris, Tel: 01 42 77 08 64‎) into my waiting belly. Well, I spooned it into my mouth and it traveled into my belly and… I loved it.

If sweets aren’t your thing, perhaps cheese is? It better be if you’re in Paris. And frankly, there isn’t anything better than a selection of cheeses from your local fromagerie, a fresh crispy baguette and a bottle of organic French wine. The moment you visit Paris, put the fancy restaurants on hold and gather supplies for your own makeshift picnic in your rented flat or hotel room. Continue Reading »

Posted in Food | 7 Comments »