Michal Osmenda

Beer, frites, comics. Blah, blah, blah. No disrespect to lovers of ambers and ales, salty, fried foods, or Tintin, but there’s so much more to Brussels, capital of Belgium—capital of all of Europe—than these perennially touted attractions. Here are three lesser-celebrated reasons to hop on a train and make the 80-minute trip from Paris.

Chocolate boutique in Brussels (flavijus)

At first glance, the architecture in Brussels is incongruous—ugly, even. But in that odd stew of styles are treasures from many eras.

Take, for example, the Grand’Place in the city center. The towering 15th century Town Hall, which is adorned with hundreds of statues, and adjacent rows of meticulously detailed guild houses, have earned the square a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Even though the medieval constructions are blighted by florescent-lit souvenir shops and droves of tourists, it’s a must-see landmark.

The second hand record store “Arlequin” in Brussels (H4NUM4N)

On the far side of town is a landmark of a different sort: the Atomium, a relic from the 1958 World Fair. Standing at 103-meters tall, it consists of nine giant steel spheres, connected by tubes. Altogether, it looks like a big, weird cell. But each sphere houses an exhibit hall, and you can visit them via escalators enclosed in the tubes. The reward for the schlep to the northern part of the city to see this oddity is the 360-degree panoramic view from the top.

A building in Brussels that used to be a department store & “Galerie de la Reine” (Sophuda & AstridWestvang)

But for my money, the most beautiful architectural immersion is the residential neighborhood of Saint-Gilles—a bonanza of Art Nouveau. Stroll the sloping hills and admire exquisite details like wrought iron balconies, castle-like turrets and oriel windows. If you love the genre, then don’t miss the neighborhood’s crown jewel: the Musée Horta, the previous home of one of the most influential Art Nouveau architects, Victor Horta.

“Le Fabuleux Marcel” in Brussels (visitflanders)

Back in the 1980s, the Antwerp Six, the influential designers who established Belgian fashion, set up shop on Rue Antoine Dansaert in the abutting neighborhoods of Sainte Catherine and Saint-Géry. Today, it’s where all the super stylish Belgians shop. The avant-garde Stijl, a boutique that’s as carefully curated as an art gallery, features the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons Dries Van Noten and is the main draw of the drag. Other ultracool shops include Annemie Verbeke and Glorybox and, in recent years, international stores— Comptoir de Cottoniers, Marc Jacobs—have infiltrated the neighborhood.

“Kelly Shop” in Brussels (visitflanders)

For more casual and eclectic shopping, head across town to Ixelles. You can tell this neighborhood is popular with expats by the abundance of cafes offering soymilk and cupcakeries, but the boutiques are both trendy and down-to-earth. My favorite of all the great little indie spots is Moss & Bros, small but packed with eclectic home goods and clothing.

Chocolates in Brussels (Juska Wendland)

And then, of course, there’s the chocolate. Like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, you see chocolatiers seemingly everywhere you go in Brussels. Turn a corner, and there’s a chocolatier. Turn another corner and there’s another chocolatier, and another. It’s my kind of city.

The choco-epicenter is the Grand Sablon, an oblong park packed with the big-hitters (Godiva, Neuhaus, Leonidas) and the classics (Wittamer); the haute (Pierre Marcolini) and the artisan (Passion). And the most recent (and brilliant) addition is Alex & Alex, a chocolate and champagne bar. Oui, my kind of city indeed.

Chocolates from “Mary” in Brussels (Amy Thomas)

Although the Grand Sablon could keep you high and happy for hours, it’s essential to veer off the well-trod path. That’s how you’ll experience Frederic Blondeel, who is known for ganaches with bold and spicy ingredients like black cardamom and Szechuan pepper, and Laurent Gerbaud, whose rich and creamy pralines could very well be the best things I ate in Brussels.

Walt Hubis

And no visit would be complete without a visit to Mary, the 93-year-old chocolatier that’s been supplying bonbons to the royal family for decades. Choose from caramels and marzipan fillings; chocolate mousse, ganache and creams; truffles and pralines; plus tablettes and mendiants. The packaging is almost as exquisite as the bonbons, and the staff are impossibly polite. In fact, Mary alone is a good excuse to go to Brussels tout de suite.

Written by Amy Thomas for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

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Amy Thomas

Amy Thomas is a sweets-obsessed writer based between New York and Paris. She published her best-selling “foodoir” (food writing meets memoir), Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate). This was followed up with the 2018 book Brooklyn in Love: A Memoir of Food, Family and Finding Yourself. Her writing has appeared in The New York Times, T Magazine, New York Post, National Geographic Traveler, New York Magazine, Town & Country, Bust, Every Day with Rachel Ray and others.


  1. Amy; honestly, you don’t need ANY excuse to visit Brussels… 🙂
    I was there on business some time ago and although it was my first time, I won’t be my last. I took the time to visit nearly all the places you mentioned above, except the museum. Had fabulous food, loved the Art Deco (Nouveau) galleries, did some fab shopping (amongst other we bought new stuff for Hero Husband who NEVER has time for shopping, incl shoes!), stuffed ourselves with divine chocs and stayed in a cosy, beautiful B&B.
    Feel like getting my weekend suitcase out now and take a train; alas, the SNCF and AF are on strike!!!!

    Leah; you’re right too in a way – Bruge is absolutely gorgeous but in mho nearly TOO touristy. What I didn’t like was the fact that nearly everybody flatly refused to speak French and preferred to speak English badly. Found some very friendly eating places in Bruge too and again stayed in a lovely little hotel.

    Thank you Amy, for a great post!

  2. On my side I would easily say that the Victor Horta house is a reason alone to go to Bruxelles! 🙂

    But I don’t need to be pushed too forcefully to add among my reasons to go, those Manon chocolates of Leonidas which are so good that they should be counted among the seven deadly sins! 🙂


  3. I literally just got back from a business trip to Brussels last night. I was at a conference so I didn’t get to see much, but what I did see made me excited to go back and I ate some absolutely delicious food. I am going to be spending NYE there and now I’m trying to find the right restaurant and party to make the evening as magical as I hope it will be! Any tips are welcome!

  4. While Bruxelles is nice, the city to really visit is Brugge. Its been a few years since I have been there and most likely its turned more touristy since their motto was changed to the “Venice of the North” but it really is a superbly beautiful city. we found the inns to be very clean but quaint, the people approachable, the food great and the architecture and canals were breathtaking. Belgium is a great country and shouldn’t be missed on any tour of Europe. I really like Luxembourg too. I lived in Nancy, FR for a few years and Luxembourg was the closest place to get american food and they have a English bookstore which helped with my homesickness..

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