Last Spring, Maggie was lucky to spend some time in Haven in Paris’ gorgeous Rue du Bac 2-bedroom. A relative newcomer to Paris, she made the most of her expat status by seeking out the hidden gems her wonderful neighborhood had to offer. She shares a few of her favorites with us here…
I adopted the Saint Germain neighborhood up and down Rue du Bac as my home away from home earlier this year. Eventually, to my delight, the neighborhood started to adopt me in return! After seeing my smile amidst the sea of scowls over and over again in the long lines in their shops, the local merchants actually started to smile back, even if it was ever so slightly.
Each vanishing grimace assured me it was okay to start feeling at home. And I did, quickly. As an American girl in Paris, I knew the quickest way to appear even remotely French would be to build up my arsenal of Parisian necessities, all within the few blocks around my apartment. To that end, I hereby share what I think every aspiring local Parisian woman needs:
I was lucky enough to live in Paris earlier this year. During my time in one of the fairest cities, I soaked up the language, tossed back (a few too) many glasses of red and practically inhaled the food. I also wandered, a lot. I’m the sort of tourist who likes to explore the nooks and crannies, those precious spots that are forgotten on a map but hold a special magic beyond the typical grand Paris sites.
Oh, I did fit in the requisite amount of “grand” though. Naturellement! I was a trooper, performing my tourist duty by visiting all of the major Parisian landmarks, leaving my gasps and wishes in the same spots you likely did. I gazed at the Eiffel Tower and marveled at the views from both Sacre Coeur (très vaste) and the Centre Pompidou (très spécial). I even strolled down Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, a street speckled with bright shop windows that are filled with tiny sparkling items more valuable than my not-as-tiny house in the States.
I saw it all, hoping I blended in among the fashionable locals but knowing deep down, way deep down, that I still looked like the typical tourist – wide-eyed, a bit awestruck, mouth permanently agape, cheeks flushed from all the wine, and generally feeling quite blessed and lucky.
Alas, all that wine blushing up my skin totally gave me away. While I was living in a dream, a few unsavory locals easily spotted my tourist moves (you know, the wide-eyes, mouth agape, flushed cheeks) and attempted to weasel me with their foolish scams. I was forewarned by local friends and, fortunately, able to avoid the embarrassment. Many of my tourist brethren were not so lucky.
Luck, however, is on your side. I watched, appalled, as each tourist, high on the city of lights, repeatedly fell for scam after scam. I’m busting out the scams I discovered here so you don’t have to succumb to their same fate.
First and foremost, you must remember this key piece of information on your next stroll through central Paris: No one would sell you a real gold ring for 10 Euros. Not in Paris. Not anywhere. Not even your real grandmother would sell you a piece of 18-karat gold for 10 Euros. Just wouldn’t happen.
So when your sweet Parisian fairy godmother or godfather finds a pretty gold ring at your very feet, they’ll explain how they’re certain it belongs to you. When you insist that it isn’t, which naturally you will, they’ll start raving about how genuine the ring is and how they’ll be only too glad to sell it to you for whatever you’re willing to pay. Two words: Don’t pay. In fact, don’t bother. Just perfect a très Parisian scowl and move right on along. If they persist, shout at them, preferably in French, and, remarkably, they will vanish. Continue Reading »
I miss Paris – the gorgeous gray buildings, the bridges over that little river, the cranky taxi drivers. Oh, let’s be real for a moment; I miss the food more than anything else. And since my initial post on Paris Foods You Must Eat (part 1) did so well, I thought an encore was in order.
Let’s start with the chocolate mousse, that luscious mix of cream, sugar, cocoa and air. Only this mousse is featured in a chocolate mousse bar – that’s right, folks, an entire bar of mousses made from all different types of chocolate – that is scooped out by the spatula-full into a tiny paper cone (or into pint containers, if you’re so inclined). You gotta try this good stuff, made in a shop tucked away on a sleepy section of St. Germain. Chocolat Chapon is located at 69 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 42 22 95 98.
If thick chocolate mousse is not quite your speed, try the best gelato in Paris. I waited in line for 30 minutes in order to spoon some creamy deliciousness from Pozzetto(39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Paris, Tel: 01 42 77 08 64) into my waiting belly. Well, I spooned it into my mouth and it traveled into my belly and… I loved it.
If sweets aren’t your thing, perhaps cheese is? It better be if you’re in Paris. And frankly, there isn’t anything better than a selection of cheeses from your local fromagerie, a fresh crispy baguette and a bottle of organic French wine. The moment you visit Paris, put the fancy restaurants on hold and gather supplies for your own makeshift picnic in your rented flat or hotel room. Continue Reading »
The volcanic eruption in Iceland has changed my (and likely your) travel plans pretty dramatically. I was supposed to be back with the husband in cold and rainy New England but am instead stranded in bright and sunny Paris. Despite feeling pretty helpless, as you may imagine, I am not getting much sympathy from friends and family. Taking the bull by the horns, I have decided to make the most of every extra moment in this perfect city. I’m sharing my five-step plan with you, with the hopes that it may help those of you also stranded in Paris or anywhere in Europe.
1. Revisit your favorite restaurant and hope for a sweet homecoming. I’ve visited some fabulous restaurants during my stay in Paris, only to be warmly welcomed (most of the time) upon my second visit. The staff at Le Miroir, Glou and, especially, Le Pure Café have been attentive, sweet and delighted by my return visits. However, I only just discovered my favorite restaurant in Paris a few days ago. La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde (64 Rue de Bellechasse 75007 Paris, Tel: 01 45 51 74 61) is a little neighborhood joint, only four blocks from my flat, run by an unlikely duo – she’s an experienced grandmother-like host, he’s a young, cool bartender/server. Together, they run an efficient, candle-lit, warm diner that whips up nine seasonal comfort dishes (three entrees, three plats, three desserts) and easy, affordable wine. I felt so at home here, so much so that I’m hoping a return trip will ease my travel plan pain. If it doesn’t, I’m pretty certain a return trip to my favorite Paris wine bar, Le Baron Rouge, will do the trick. Wine cures all ills, right?
Taking photos of the Seine and Sacre Coeur are a must when visiting Paris, but my camera is filled with images of gorgeous meal after gorgeous meal, thousands of food photos bursting with freshness, color and deliciousness. As my time in Paris winds down – I leave later this week! – I promise to share every last morsel, starting with part one below that originally appeared on my food site, Eat Boutique. Bon appetit! -Maggie
Let’s be honest. Paris may be a foodie mecca, but all that amazing food isn’t a breeze to find. You have to research, ask the locals and scout out those hidden gems (far away from all the tourists). I did a lot of those aforementioned tasks and have produced my first “Paris Foods You Must Eat” list. Expect many more parts to come, but give me some time. I’ve got about two thousand photos to sort through, and many more neighborhoods to explore before I sleep, err, leave!
Growing up along the East Coast, I thought I had had the best seafood in the world. Um, that was until I tasted the scallops and oysters in Paris. Both are far sweeter here, with a lot more character and taste. The above scallops were caramelized and served on a beautiful plate with spring asparagus, carrots, beets and mache at one of my favorite restaurants in Montmartre called Le Miroir (94, rue des Martyrs, 18ème. Tel: 01 46 06 50 73. Metro: Abbesses or Pigalle.) If they are serving scallops the day you dine there, order them. Continue Reading »
Paris parties are the best sort of parties. They incorporate my most favorite food groups – cheese, bread, wine and sweets – and my first Paris party was not lacking for any of these. The cheese plate looks small above, but it was immense and attacked repeatedly.
The homemade gougeres were, also, quite cheesy. This very full platter disappeared all too soon, which put a big smile on the face of the maker of these puffy, savory pastries. Continue Reading »
Paris in the spring is absolutely perfect. The trees begin to bud, promising blooms and fruit in short order. The city becomes even more electric, abuzz with Parisians and tourists. The light becomes even more special.
You really shouldn’t miss Paris in the spring. And, honestly, if you become the newest member of the Haven in Paris team, you don’t have to. We’re looking for a special someone in North America to join our company, spend some time in Paris this spring, and visit from time to time going forward as our next Customer Service Specialist. We have some high expectations for the role, but we’re sure the benefits – working from home in the US; trips to Paris, Provence and Italy; liaisons with authentic macarons; amazing food; visits with some of the most luxurious flats in Paris – will be worth all the hard work.
Haven in Paris, a boutique luxury vacation rental agency (and creator of this very blog), is looking for a smart, self-motivated, and customer-oriented Customer Service Specialist to join our luxury apartment rental team, handling high-volume sales inquiries and ensuring the client rental experience is smooth and stress-free!
The successful candidate must be energetic, creative, and resourceful; and must enjoy working in a highly entrepreneurial, fluid, and sales-driven environment. The position requires sales, communication, and organization skills, as well as a gift for developing relationships online.
Can you work full-time from your North American home and keep up with our fast-paced environment? Are you a native English speaker? Can you speak and read French well? Then, we encourage you to apply.
Check out the rest of our list of responsibilities and skills needed below. If you’re a perfect fit, just email your resume and cover letter to careers@haveninparis.com. We so look forward to meeting you! (Please note that while we’d love to respond to every applicant, we’ll only be able to respond to suitable candidates. Thank you for your understanding and patience.)
Customer Service Specialist
Responsibilities:
Moderate and monitor sales inquiries submitted to the Haven in Paris site, with the goal of achieving full occupancy for our roster of luxury apartments.
Handle the response and booking process to customers’ inquiries in conjunction with our current team.
Answer questions and solve issues from property owners, service professionals, and our apartment rental clients.
Participate, as needed, in Haven in Paris’ social media outreach, which is a key sales acquisition tool.
Skills needed:
Experience in e-mail communications in an online sales, customer service, or community department. Effective communication skills with customers, including excellent writing skills.
Ability to approach problematic situations with common sense and calm.
Ability to learn Internet-based tools quickly.
Excel skills very useful.
Fluent in reading and writing of French.
Schedule flexibility is key, as this position will require some evening and weekend hours.
Again, if you’re a perfect fit, just email your resume and cover letter to careers@haveninparis.com. We so look forward to meeting you!
Written by Maggie Battista for the HiP Paris blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.
I attended my first Paris party last week, and arrived with this apple and rhubarb tart from Les Petits Mitrons. (More on that Paris party in another post soon.) I was so enraptured by the crunchy crust, glazed apples and tender rhubarb that I fell in love on the spot. I carefully prepared for its purchase, visiting the shop a few times to ensure I’d find a fresh one on the day of the party. It was lovingly nestled into this pretty pink box.
The tart was so lovely on this delicate plate, provided by the hosts. No one wanted to cut into it, but everyone wanted a bite.
As a member of the Haven in Paris team, I feel very lucky to get to know amazing people from all over the world who stay in our luxury Paris apartments. Guests are very dear, and it feels as if we let them in on a little secret: they can indeed feel like real Parisians by staying in well-stocked, carefully decorated Paris homes. The saying ‘home away from home’ was coined for our apartments.
While each and every guest is special, I met up with the perfect guest at the perfect moment last week. I’ve been a bit lonely, missing my husband, Boston friends and all my blogger friends. And as I’m still learning French, it’s not easy to make new friends. That’s where our guest Kari saved the day.
Kari happens to be a New York City blogger, photographer and all-around great lady. We met up for a quick drink. Four drinks and four plates later, we were fast friends. She blogged about her Haven in Paris apartment and let us re-post it here. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to stay in one of our apartments, and specifically one of our Montmartre properties, read on. Thanks for the kind words, Kari!
When I said I was moving to Paris for three months, those who know me well were worried for me. I’m a city girl, so adapting to the hustle and bustle of this little métropole (metropolis) wasn’t a concern. They knew I’d adapt eventually, and I totally have.
My friends, my family and (especially) my husband were all concerned that Paris would prove to be a frenetic playground on which I’d wield my stash of credit cards. They were worried I’d arrive with two suitcases and return with seven, stocked to the brim with pricey designer fashions and cool vintage finds. I promised everyone, especially my husband, that I’d closely monitor my passion for shopping (including my ongoing quest for the perfect handbag), focusing on the bare necessities and perhaps, from time to time, a great deal.
Of course, while visiting Le Bon Marche, I lost myself for a moment. Everything was so pretty that I almost convinced myself that a soft blue scarf with a €245 price tag was, in fact, a steal. Whoever said you could find a steal in Paris was either a true local or a very well informed touriste (tourist).
One & Only Paris Photography
Paul Louis Courier Apartment, near the Rue du Bac (One & Only Paris Photography), Erica Berman
