HiP Paris Blog, Emily Dilling La Goutte D'Or Palmyre Roigt La MomeLa Mome

There are few things in the world that make me happier than living in the 18th arrondissement. One could argue that it’s pretty great living anywhere in Paris, but there’s something about this quartier that has my heart forever. From the cinematic charm of Montmartre to the seductive side streets found beyond the Butte, this corner of of the city is full of friendly neighborhood addresses, unique boutiques, and rich cultural diversity.

HiP Paris Blog Emily Dilling La Goutte D'Or Palmyre Roigt Marche de Barbes

Marche de Barbes

With the recent renovation of Le Louxor cinema (whose rooftop café offers magnificent views of the Sacré-Coeur) increasing amounts of visitors are venturing to the foot of Boulevard Barbès, the entryway to the Goutte d’Or neighborhood. With its mosques, African markets, and North African pastry shops, this diverse and lively area has recently emerged as the city’s most eccentric up-and-coming neighborhood.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Sacré-Coeur; Marche Dejean

Probably the most emblematic address of the Goutte d’Or is Thierry Roche’s Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or. Opened in 2012, the brasserie boasts the title of the city’s first microbrewery and has set an example for Ile-de-France brewers and Paris craft beer bars alike. Thierry takes inspiration from the diverse culture of the Goutte d’Or, using ingredients such a rooibus and kola nut in his beers, which can be found at nearby outdoor markets.

Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 7Marche de Barbes; Montmartre (Sacré-Coeur in the distance)

If you’re interested in finding your own inspiration at the market, visit Marché Dejean near the metro Chateau Rouge, rue Dejean. Open Tuesday to Saturday mornings, this chaotic jumble of a market is stuffed with overflowing baskets of exotic foods, fish heads, and cell phones of dubious origin. Get everything you need for a Senegalese feast or Cameroon cuisine. Here bartering is encouraged and the overall ambiance of the market transports you to another part of the world.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Marche Dejean

Get cosy with local shoppers and squeeze your way through Marché Barbès (Bld de la Chapelle, metro La Chapelle) on Wednesday or Saturday morning. Standard market stands such as fishmongers and cheese sellers are in the minority at this busy market, which reflects the ethnic diversity of the area. North African breads and pastries, inexpensive produce from abroad, mangoes and other foreign fruits lend an exotic air to this market, which draws deal seekers and tourists alike. An overwhelming aroma of mint accompanies your visit to Marché Barbès as you pass by piles of herbs and spices and items that likely “fell off a truck” before making it to the market.

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 6

La Louve Coopérative

Goutte d’Or is about to welcome a unique new market to its collection. Just down the street from the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or is the future site of La Louve Coopérative, a Park Slope Food Coop inspired project set to open in June 2015. Watch this space for more information on this exciting addition to the list of “bio” shops in Paris.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 2Adonde

In the meandering side streets around the historic Eglise Saint-Bernard de la Chapelle, you’ll find a selection of boutiques and bars that are a testament to the transformation of the neighborhood. Design team Cocobohème has their studio and showcase on rue de Jessaint, where you can shop for unique home decor, children’s clothes and toys, and handmade jewelry and accessories.

*Please note that as of 2021, Cocobohème is permanently closed in Paris*

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Cocoboheme

If you need a drink break after a day of shopping, pop into Le Tout Monde, a perfect spot for a pit stop and some small plates paired with natural wine. Recently open for lunch, keep this bar in mind for a break between boutiques or before a beer tasting!

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 3
HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt 4
HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Le Tout Monde 1
HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Le Tout Monde 2
La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris

Coco Boheme; Le Tout Monde; La Mome

For a proper sit down meal of tagine and mint tea, head to neighborhood favorite La Môme (16 rue Stephenson). An extensive menu of African specialties offers something for everyone (there’s even a vegetarian tagine option). Don’t miss out on the specialty La Môme beer that the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or made especially for the restaurant!

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris
La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris
La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris
La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris
La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris
La Mome

If you’re weary of running around the city, opt for an indulgent afternoon and head to Azhar Hammam & Spa an affordable and authentic option for a traditional hammam experience. Enjoy a steam, massage, or mani-pedi that will refresh and restore, leaving you ready to explore some more!

La Goutte d'Or Quartier in Paris
Eglise Saint Bernard

The constantly growing scene of creative commerce and collaborations makes the Goutte d’Or neighborhood one to watch. Whether sipping on locally brewed beer or natural wine, catching a matinée, or shopping for unique handmade gifts, be sure to take pause and soak up the energy of one of the city’s most vibrant and swiftly changing neighborhoods.

HiP Paris Blog, La Goutte d'Or, Palmyre Roigt, Hammam AzharHammam Azhar
  • Le Louxor – 170 Boulevard Magenta, 75010 Paris. Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 63 96 96
  • La Louve Cooperative – 61 rue de la Goutte D’Or, 75018 Paris.
  • Cocoboheme – 22 rue Jessaint, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 62 40 60
  • Le Tout Monde – 4 rue Affre, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 54 29 51
  • Le Mome – 16 Rue Stephenson, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 23 35 64
  • Azhar Hammam & Spa – 59 rue Stephenson, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 58 02 02

Related links:

  • For more tips on the 18ème arrondisement, check out My Parisian Life’s neighborhood round-up
  • Chocolate & Zucchini’s guide to the best bio shops in Paris
  • David Lebovitz writes about the Marché Barbès

Written by Emily Dilling for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Palmyre Roigt. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

WRITTEN BY

Emily Dilling

Emily Dilling is a France based writer and author of My Paris Market Cookbook: A Culinary Tour of French Flavors and Seasonal Recipes. In 2005 Emily moved to Paris from her native California and began exploring the cities markets, restaurants, and cafés. In 2010 she founded the blog Paris Paysanne, where she writes about her favorite addresses and artisans in the city. Emily currently lives in the Loir-et-Cher region of France, where she writes and works in the grapevines.

4 Comments

  1. Hi Genia! I’m so glad you had a great Goutte d’Or day! They are so sweet at Cocoboheme. I’ll have to check out that bookstore!

  2. Me and my boyfriend used your article for inspiration for an awesome date day at La Goutte d’Or. We absolutely loved the neighbourhood and all the places you mentioned – thanks 🙂 Also, thanks to the lovely lady at Cocoboheme, we discovered a cute, hidden bookstore that you need to ring the bell to enter on rue Pierre L’Ermite.

  3. Wow, thank you so much for sharing about this neighborhood! I must admit, living in Paris I infrequently make it up to this area, but now that I know all these wonderful places to go, that’s going to change! Especially Goutte d’Or – on the top of my list! Merci 🙂

  4. Fabulous article – planning a weekend in Paris just to visit all these places now! If only I had the time! You’ve got me completely sold on moving to Paris to leave in this area! X

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