For the past few years, the Big Mamma Group has been the purveyor of fresh, delicious Italian cuisine in Paris, with most of their products – and even the staff – hailing from France’s southern neighbor. It was only a matter of time before the group jumped on the Paris brunch train, and we knew that once they did, it would not disappoint. Thus their answer to the classic Italian caffè opened its doors in Rose Bakery’s old Marais location, with an eclectic, épicerie-inspired twist.
Walking into Biglove Caffè is like walking into a restaurant in Italy in the 1950s – a gorgeous mix of copper, marble, stone, leather, and wood – albeit updated for the modern era by the team of designers at Martin Brudnizki. You’re greeted by a long line of banquette tables to the right and a coffee counter to the left, intended to serve coffee the way the Italians drink it: standing, chatting with those around you, and then back out the door to work. For those who wish to stay and eat, the caffè offers something that the other Big Mamma restaurants do not: a service continu (continuous service) with only an hour break before dinner.
On the menu, brunch clearly reigns supreme, though many will delight in the presence of gluten-free pizza. Eggs benedict, truffle omelettes, various tartines, mind-bendingly fluffy pancakes and pain perdu (French toast) topped with heaps of fruit and mascarpone cream go hand-in-hand with enormous cappuccinos and cafè lattes, all served on gorgeously patterned china dishware. Or, if you prefer a cocktail with brunch, you’ll find refreshing options similar to those at Ober Mamma or East Mamma.
Brunch is served all day here, so no need to drag yourself out of bed to arrive early. That is, if you don’t mind waiting for a table, as one is wont to do for a menu this delectable.
Biglove Caffè- 30 rue Debelleyme, 75003. Métro: Filles du Calvaire. +33 (0)1 42 71 43 62. Open daily 9am-6pm, 7pm-11pm.
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