How to make the most of these dark, dreary days? Indulge in some of the city’s tastiest winter comfort foods, bien sûr.

These restaurants represent about four inches on my waistline, and offer scientifically proven remedies for the misery of what remains of the winter. (Disclaimer: They’re not really scientifically proven, so please, indulge in moderation!)

Boneshaker Donuts and Coffee

Yeah, that’s right… I’m starting with dessert, deal with it. I spend a lot of time in this tiny doughnut joint run by (young) mom and pop Amanda Bankert (DC-born, Cordon Bleu-trained) and Louis (Ireland-born, ex-OECD). Now friends, I hang out for hours on end (the stool to the right as you walk in is MINE), goofing around with the couple and customers.

a box of four different donuts.
Boneshaker Donuts, photo by Eileen Cho

Most flavors are constants (fluffernutter – oh my goodness), although every month brings a new special and some change with the seasons. In 2020 Bankert secretly transitioned the shop to being all plant-based and no one noticed! But one thing that has stayed constant is that each bite is roughly equivalent to a mini orgasm, so you’ll want to eat them slowly in public to avoid bringing attention to yourself. Pop in before lunch for the largest selection. 

Sold Out

You’d think that by now the Parisian burger wave would have crashed into the shore and gone back out to sea, but that’s not the case. Jean-Roch, (another friend of mine who spent several years working in different burgers joints stealing their best ideas) and his associate opened Sold Out, a little shop by the Canal Saint-Martin in northeast Paris.

Burgers are one of Parisians' favorite foods, especially in winter.
photo by Jakub Kapusnak

The menu: cheeseburger. Yup, it’s so good they didn’t even bother to think of any alternatives. Well, you can add bacon for one euro more and of course there’s the fries and sodas and beers, but this “dirty burger” is just perfect, mainly because it contains no pointless salad or tomato; just meat, cheese, pickles, onions, and sauce.

Mark my words: you won’t want to miss this. 

Treize au Jardin

American transplant Laurel Anderson brings Southern inspired dishes to Parisians at this institution across from the Luxembourg Gardens. Treize au jardin restaurant and tea salon is an inviting place for brunch, tea, an apéro and more.

the entrance to Treize bakery and a selection of their cakes.
photo courtesy of Treize

The shabby chic interiors, American comfort classics like pancakes, homemade soups, mac and cheese, pecan crusted chicken and carrot cake will warm the soul and body during the cold months – or any time of year.

Cocoricains

This new French/American bistro offers stick to your bones fare in a fun and inviting setting. The Grand Boulevards location is the place for fried chicken, peanut soup, triple cooked fries, mac and cheese, banana bread tarte tatin, and other hearty American fare, executed with French finesse.

A table spread of fried foods and mac and cheese.
Cocoricains, photo by Sammy Royal

Bouillion chartier

This stalwart offers French bistro classics at rock bottom prices. Escargots, confit de canard, quenelle de brochet, boeuf Bourguignon and profiteroles are some of the delights on offer. You can indulge in all of your favorite French classics for around 20 euros for a three course meal.

Left: the dining room of Bouillon Chartier Gare de l'Est with a yellow and wood paneled walls, red table cloth covered with white paper tablecloth and the back of diner's head; right: a table at the same restaurant with escargots; a glass of red wine, bread basket, bottle of bordeaux wine, a plate of charcuterie with butter and cornichon, and the edge of a salad bowl.
photos by Pronoti Baglary/HIP Paris

Insider tip: go to Bouillon Chartier, Gare de l’Est to avoid the long queues.

Bistrot Paul Bert

A restaurant that needs no introduction. If you can snag a table at this Parisian institution, you’ll be rewarded with heart warming traditional French cuisine, executed superbly. Charming old school interiors, steak au poivre, Paris Brest, followed by a food coma is what’s on the menu at Bistrot Paul Bert.

The interior of Bistro Paul Bert.
Bistro Paul Bert photographed by Diana Liu

Service can at times be a little brusque, understandably so due to its popularity, and you’ll be rubbing shoulders with tourists and locals alike.

L’auberge bresanne

It’s tricky to find good restaurants near the Eiffel Tower. Venture a short walk away and you can find the antidote to over-priced, mediocre tourist traps. L’Auberge Bressane offers some of the best traditional French cuisine and is a favorite with locals. Sumptuous foie gras, impressive soufflés, quenelles de brochet, tender ris de veau and a show stopping crêpes Suzette will re-fuel and warm you up on a cold winter’s day.

Kodawari Ramen

Who doesn’t love soup on a cold day? Kodawari Ramen restaurant on the left bank is included in the Michelin Guide, but the prices remain reasonable. Be prepared though: it gets super busy so book ahead or be prepared to queue. 

Inside Kodawari Ramen's Japanese market-inspired noodle bar, with Japanese paper windows and red lanterns.
Photo courtesy of Kodawari Ramen Paris

Les Apôtres de Pigalle

Les Apôtres (“the apostles”) is a place for sharing, where customers tick the dishes they want on a paper menu and then split the plates amongst themselves.

Owned by three Parisian brothers who now all work at the restaurant, this is the only place I’ve chosen for one particular dish: the truffle mac and cheese. Cooked like a risotto so that the result is creamy heaven rather than pasta gratin, I can’t get enough of this simple yet addictive dish, which is sure to rid you of the blues in just a few mouthfuls.

Le Chalet Savoyard

What if I told you there was a place where you can scrape an unlimited supply of melted cheese onto potatoes, meat, and pickles, no questions asked? You’d think I was crazy, right? Well, while I may be a little mad, when it comes to food, this boy don’t lie.

A man serving gooey cheese raclette on a plate, one of the best winter foods in France.
photo by Claudio Schwarz Purzlbaum

Raclette is at once the name of a Swiss cheese and a dish in which a half-wheel of cheese is heated by a lamp on its exposed side so that it melts and can be scraped off onto your plate with the traditional accompaniments. Le Chalet Savoyard, a Paris institution, is the only place I’ve ever been for raclette and that’s not about to change. You can choose between blue, goat, and truffle cheese, amongst others, while they’ll keep bringing cheese and potatoes as long as you keep finishing them. If you don’t fancy the physical act of scraping then you could always go for a fondue or tartiflette. 

Adresses

Boneshaker Donuts – 77, rue d’Aboukir, 75002

Sold Out – 2 rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010

Treize au Jardin – 5 Rue de Médicis, 75006 Paris

Cocoricains – 6 Rue Saint-Marc, 75002 Paris

Bouillon Chartier – 5 Rue du 8 Mai 1945, 75010 Paris

Bistrot Paul Bert – 18 Rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris

L’Auberge Bressane – 16 Av. de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris

Kodowari Ramen – 29 Rue Mazarine, 75006 Paris

Les Apôtres de Pigalle – 2 rue Germain Pilon, 75018

Le Chalet Savoyard – 58 rue de Charonne, 75011

Written by Neil Kreeger for HiP Paris. Looking to travel? Check out Plum Guide and our Marketplace for fabulous vacation rentals in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long or short term, or buy in France? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates or click here. Looking to bring France home to you or to learn online or in person? Check out our marketplace shop and experiences.

WRITTEN BY

Neil Kreeger

Originally from London but living and working in Paris for more than 10 years, Neil started out as a travel journalist mainly reviewing hotels all over the world for an online magazine based in Paris. While he still writes for various publications including Luxos Magazine and Pullman Hotels’ Junction Magazine, he has more recently turned his attention to the food and beverage industry and has worked at several well-known restaurants in Paris.

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