Located in the east of the city between Belleville and the Père Lachaise Cemetery, you’re not likely to find Ménilmontant in most guidebooks. Originally a hamlet on the outskirts of central Paris encircled by stone quarries and vineyards, the hilly neighborhood has remained true to its working-class and bohemian roots.
Today, art studios, community gardens, and narrow vine-ladened back streets rub shoulders with hip hangouts, street art, and contemporary eateries. Here are our top places to eat, drink, and mingle with the Ménilmontois.
Nestled on a little square near the Ménilmontant métro station, this friendly bar is le quartier general, or go-to hangout, for many locals. Its walls offer neighboring artists a chance to showcase their work and weekend nights are kept abuzz with concerts or slam poetry.
Formerly Le Roseval, this unassuming venue next to the Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix de Ménilmontant church was converted into a Italian neo-bistro by chef Michele Farnese in 2015. Pasta and Italian delicacies like you’ve never tasted, the two-course weekday lunch menu is a steal at 17€, and the pricier-but-worth-it nightly tasting menu is a true delight.
An Di An Di
Meaning “Eat! Eat!” In Vietnamese, this tiny fusion restaurant is big on flavor. Palate-popping dishes range from bánh cuốn, a rice flour crêpe with mushrooms and a truffle emulsion, to crispy pork belly stuffed with herbs and served with turmeric-flavored potato purée and braised endives, available in a weekday two-course lunch menu of 16€.
Halfway up the Ménilmontant hill is one of two branches of this renowned baker-pastry chef, known for his quality ingredients. You can either take away some of Castel’s divine treats or sit down for teatime or all-you-can-eat brunch on Saturdays and Sundays (€29, no reservations).
Located right on rue de Ménilmonant, this resto-bar is a sign of the changing times of the area. A friendly ambiance around the long bar seating and cozier back tables, the menu features seasonal Mediterranean small plates and cocktails designed by award-winning mixologist Jennifer Le Nechet.
The seemingly never-ending rue de Ménilmontant is interrupted roughly midway by a semi-square at the mouth of rue Sorbier, where several bars and restaurants create a lively village-like feel. La Laverie is the coolest of these. If you can’t get a seat on its overflowing terrace, the inside is equally inviting with its eclectic collection of mismatched furniture and reasonably priced food and drinks.
A hybrid venue par excellence since its reinvention in 2005, this former late-19th-century cooperative has become a unique cultural outlet in the neighborhood. The vast interior hosts art exhibitions, festivals, markets, concerts, and other special events (dress-up bingo anyone?), whereas the peaceful back garden terrace is perfect for apéro or Sunday brunch.
A leather goods factory that was revamped in 2003, this slightly edgier next-door neighbor to La Bellevilloise is known for its indie concerts and late-night clubbing. It also has a nice terrace and restaurant open to all.
Lou Pascalou – 14 rue des Panoyaux, 75020 Paris
Dilia – 1 rue d’Eupatoria, 75020 Paris
An Di An Di – 9 rue du Liban, 75020 Paris
Benoît Castel Ménilmontant – 150 rue de Ménilmontant, 75020 Paris
Mino – 42 rue de Ménilmontant, 75020 Paris
La Laverie – 1 rue Sorbier, 75020 Paris
The Bellevilloise – 19-21 rue Boyer, 75020 Paris
Maroquinerie – 23 rue Boyer, 75020 Paris
- Read more about the delicious dining at Dilia.
- And, the artisan boulangerie and brunch spot Benoît Castel.
- You can also find pork buns and dumplings at Wen Zhou.
Written by Lily Heise for HiP Paris. Photography by Ali Postma. Looking to travel? Check out Haven In for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long-term or buy in France or Italy? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates.
One comment on “A Guide To Paris’s Ménilmontant Neighborhood”
Any groups for tourist seniors who want to meet locals?