Brooklyn ambiance and not a tourist in sight. Benoit Castel’s boulangerie in the 20th arrondissement may not be in the center of Parisian action, but it’s well worth the trek. And not just for the unlimited weekend brunch.
For starters, the spacious loft-like space is a welcome change from the tiny, hole-in-the-wall cafés in more central neighborhoods. It means that those who crave Castel’s pillow-shaped pain du coin, his signature bread, or other delectable pastries from his 11th-arrondissement outpost, can now enjoy them along with a drink at one of the rustic vintage tables in Ménilmontant.
Surrounded by raw brick walls and cement floor, Castel and his team can be spotted whipping up soups and tarts in the large open-plan kitchen. In a corner, an old wood-burning oven harks back to the location’s history, which used to house Ganachaud, the boulangerie that relaunched artisanal baguettes in the 1970s.
During the week, the boulangerie doubles as an informal office for laptop-equipped locals, who drop by for coffee and viennoiseries, quirkily served on cutting boards in lieu of trays, or a sandwich (or salad) and dessert for lunch.
For a more consistent breakfast, there is a €9.90 formule that includes a hot drink, fresh fruit juice, pastry, baguette, and Castel’s jam, which can be purchased to take home as a souvenir too.
If planning to come for brunch, make sure you come early (no reservations) and on an empty stomach. The €29 all-you-can-eat buffet brunch offers a cornucopia of French comfort food in the guide of hearty quiches, scrambled eggs, baby potato salad, artisanal charcuterie and cheese, all accompanied — of course — by a selection of Castel’s delectable breads. If there’s still room, indulge in French grandma-style desserts like chocolate fondant, clafoutis, and rice pudding. After all, the slopes of Parc de Belleville are only a short calorie-burning stroll away.
Benoit Castel – 150 rue de Ménilmontant, 75020. Metro: Saint-Fargeau. Tel: +33 (0)1 46 36 13 82. Open Wed-Fri, 7:30am-8pm. Open Sat 8am-8pm and Sun 8am-6pm. Brunch is served Sat and Sun 10:30am-3:00pm. No reservations.
Related Links
- Read about the black bread trend in Parisian boulangeries.
- Check out our picks of the best boulangers in Montmartre.
- For more about Benoit Castel, head to David Lebovitz.
Written by Elena Berton for HiP Paris. All photographs courtesy of Benoit Castel. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, Tuscany, Umbria or Liguria? Check out Haven In.
RELATED ARTICLES
The Top Women Chefs Defining Paris’s New Dining Scene
by
Lily Heise
Cocoricains: An American Bistrot with French Flair in Paris’s 2nd Arrondissement
by
Dilyn Odoardi
Our Favorite Stinky French Cheese: What To Buy, Tips & Where To Shop
by
Casey Hatfield-Chiotti
La Chandeleur: 8 Spots for the Best Crêpes in Paris
by
Ali Postma
Where to Eat in St Germain Paris, According to A Food Tour Guide
by
Rachel Naismith
Where to Find the Best Comfort Foods in Paris
by
Neil Kreeger
Healthy French Recipes for Winter
by
HiP Paris
Where to Eat in Paris During the Holidays – Christmas and New Year’s
by
Lily Heise
How to Have a French Holiday Meal at Home
by
HiP Paris
Where to Go For Thanksgiving Dinner in Paris
by
Lily Heise
Mariage Frères Paris, Restaurant & Salon de Thé: It’s Time to Spill the Tea!
by
Kathryn Kinley
Expat Entrepreneurs in Paris: Boneshaker Donuts
by
Jessica Johnston
Molly Wilkinson’s French Madeleine Recipe
by
Molly Wilkinson
Niçoise Cooking for All Seasons: Rosa Jackson On Her Latest Cookbook, Expat Life and More
by
Kathryn Kinley
Le Sud: Rebekah Peppler on Recipes From The South of France
by
Rachel Naismith
How to Order Coffee in French
by
Alessia Armenise
7 Restaurants to Try on Your Next Paris Trip
by
Lily Heise
Best Restaurants in Paris Around Notre Dame Cathedral
by
Lily Heise
The 24 Best Paris Terraces For Lingering Outdoors
by
Lily Heise
Best Marais Restaurants: Where to Eat in Paris
by
Lily Heise