Food

The Other Side of Montmartre: The Best Restaurants, Bars & Cafés North of Sacre Coeur

by Jamie Rolston

You may already be familiar with Paris’ famous Montmartre district, but how about the hidden neighborhood tucked away behind the hills in the northern end of the city? While much of the 18th arrondissement has remained home to immigrant communities and fought off gentrification, pockets of the neighborhood have begun changing in recent years with new cafés and trendy bars popping up—including the Jules Joffrin neighborhood.

Even though France entered its second lockdown on November 1, it’s important to support the local restaurants, bars, and café’s remaining open during these tough times. Here are our favorite spots to grab a glass of wine or bite to eat in the area, all open for takeout and/or delivery. Stay safe and enjoy!

Left: an aerial view of a fig pie from Atelier P1. The pie is on top of a wooden table. Right: Food from Bululu Arepera. there are plantain chips, guacamole, and a grilled vegetable with fresh cheese.
Top: Atelier P1 / Above: Atelier P1 / Bululu Arepera

Café Pimpin

Located around the corner from the Mairie du 18ème, this local spot serves up delicious coffee, homemade meals, and a friendly neighborhood atmosphere. Stop by for a to-go coffee and a warm welcome from the staff!

Left: a woman pouring maple syrup over pancakes with figs and blueberries on them. There are several other plates on the table filled with food. One of of the plates there is a piece of toast with smoked salmon and cream cheese. There is also a cup of coffee with a heart drawn in the foamy milk on top. Right: the interior of Café Pimpin. There is a bar with white tiles on the front of it with plates and other cooking utensils. There is a wooden table in the foreground with a bouquet of yellow and orange flowers in it. There are salt and pepper shakers on the table and a folded up newspaper is visible.
Café Pimpin – laroutinefood / diiuudiu

Jules Jo

Just steps away from the Jules Joffrin metro stop, you’ll find the Jules Jo, a local bistro with regional cuisine and an inviting atmosphere. The large menu includes options for everyone, from vegetarians to carnivores, and an extensive wine and cocktail lists.

Left: a woman's hands holding a sandwich from Bululu Arepera. There is meat, avocado, and red onion in the sandwich and it is in a traditional Venezuelan bun. Right: a cup of coffee with foamy milk on a table. The cup is white and it is on a white saucer with a small spoon.
Bululu Arepera – 2foodersinparis / Café Pimpin – aloha.melissa

Bululu Arepera

A little farther southwest, on the restaurant-lined rue de la Fontaine du But, you’ll find Bululu Arepera. The small restaurant with a simple menu offers delicious Venezuelan arepas and side dishes, like fried plantains. The food is delicious and affordable, and the menu has options for vegans, vegetarians, and meat-eaters alike. 

Left: a bike leaning against stairs outside in Paris. There are cobblestones visible as well as a Parisian apartment building with a large balcony filled with greenery. Right: a stack of 8 different cans of beer. The beer is artisanal. There are several labels, one that is visible reads "Coco Nino Moonlight Black Ale."
John Towner / Le Supercoin

Le Supercoin 

Just one block east of the Jules Joffrin metro stop you’ll find this hole in the wall bar that’s all about craft beer and pop culture. Though it’s not possible to dine-in at the moment, they’re open six days a week for you to grab a pint to-go for an at-home apéro! 

Left: a mosaic inside the Boulangerie du Square. On the left is a vine with pink and yellow roses on it, and to the right is a blue, red, green, and yellow vase with pink and yellow roses coming out of it. Right: a display case filled with different types of French pastries. A sign with the daily specials written in French is visible in the background.
Boulangerie du Square – fannypelemele

Boulangerie du Square

At the corner of the Square Maurice-Kriegel-Valrimont, you’ll find the beloved and aptly named Boulangerie du Square. Stop by the 18th-century bakery for a look at the beautiful interior, a classic pastry, or one of their original creations, like the seasonal pesto, garlic, and squash seed bun!

Atelier P1 

You’ve probably seen pictures of the stone-front building or their freshly baked goods online before, so why not stop by this neighborhood favorite and try it for yourself! With delicious treats like babka, cinnamon rolls, and praline pain au chocolat, it will be hard to walk away without buying one of everything!

Left: Virginie of Fromagerie Chez Virginie is in a store room. She is standing next to a shelf filled with different types of French cheeses and she is holding a cheese and smiling at it. She is wearing a black shirt and a black apron. Right: An aerial view of a table filled with different types of French cheeses at Fromagerie Chez Virginie.
Fromagerie Chez Virginie – anneclaire.heraud / lecheesegeek

Fromagerie Chez Virginie

With two locations in the 18th, both just south of the Jules Joffrin metro stop, Chez Virginie is a family-owned and operated fromagerie. With a wide selection and passionate cheesemongers, you’ll walk away with the perfect selection of fromages. Don’t forget to ask the staff for their recommendations and suggestions!

Left: the exterior of La Cave Lambert 18e. The store's name is written in white on the window and there are several bottles of wine visible. There is a chalkboard sign outside with a quote written in French. Right: two bottles of wine with several empty wine glasses on top of an old wine barrel inside La Cave Lambert shop.
La Cave Lambert 18e

La Cave Lambert 18e

To find the perfect bottle of wine to pair with your cheese, take a stroll down Rue du Poteau. Between markets and shops, you’ll find La Cave Lambert 18e, a popular independent wine merchant offering a thoughtful selection of wines, from organic Bourgogne reds to the perfect summer rosés.

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Written by Jamie Rolston for HiP Paris. Looking to travel? Check out Haven In for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long-term or buy in France or Italy? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates. 

Written By

Jamie Rolston

Jamie is originally from Los Angeles, but moved to Paris to become an au pair after graduating from the University of Oregon in 2018. When not taking care of kids or helping out the HiP Paris team, she loves to take film photographs, try new vegetarian restaurants or split a bottle of wine with friends. View Jamie Rolston's Website

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