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Le Quartier d’Aligre: A Foodie Haven Near Bustling Bastille

Erin Dahl shares her favorite addresses in Paris' Quartier d'Aligre on HiP Paris.

Blé Sucré, Erin Dahl

The Quartier d’Aligre is one of my favorite pockets of Paris, and one I am lucky enough to call home. Located just southeast of Bastille, the area has a little bit of everything: bustling shops on rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (including a Marks & Spencer and sizeable Monoprix) and easy metro access, but also calm streets and a true neighborhood feel. I even brought my caviste a portion of blanquette de veau a few weeks back. The beloved Marché d’Aligre, a bustling daily market located on/around the Place d’Aligre, is only the start. Here are some of my other favorite addresses:

Erin Dahl shares her favorite addresses in Paris' Quartier d'Aligre on HiP Paris.

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Rino Restaurant: High-Impact Cuisine in Paris’ 11eme

Last spring, every food-following Parisian had their sights set on one restaurant: Rino. After it opened in February 2010, chef Giovanni Passerini’s cozy, modern bistro quickly became the place for innovative, market-driven fare at reasonable prices. At the time, nearly every review was favorable (if not positively glowing); a year later, we stopped in again, for lunch this time, to see whether Rino has lived up to the hype.

The restaurant is tucked away on a fairly unsexy street in the 11th, and offers clean and unfussy décor, suggesting that here, the focus has always been on the food. As soon as we entered, we noticed a team of busy line chefs, chopping and arranging dishes in a small open kitchen.


In the tradition of Le Chateaubriand, Le Chapeau Melon, and Les Papilles, Rino offers a set menu (with little-to-no choice) that changes daily based on available ingredients and the whims of the chef. Luckily, Passerini’s impressive training (he previously worked at Arpège, Le Chateaubriand, and La Gazzetta)and innovative instincts mean that culinary missteps are rare—he has an innate sense for how to make seasonal produce shine in dishes that draw on tradition but play up surprises.

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