Blé Sucré, Erin Dahl
The Quartier d’Aligre is one of my favorite pockets of Paris, and one I am lucky enough to call home. Located just southeast of Bastille, the area has a little bit of everything: bustling shops on rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (including a Marks & Spencer and sizeable Monoprix) and easy metro access, but also calm streets and a true neighborhood feel. I even brought my caviste a portion of blanquette de veau a few weeks back. The beloved Marché d’Aligre, a lively daily market located on/around the Place d’Aligre, is only the start. Here are some of my other favorite addresses:
Famed Le Baron Rouge is a post-market go-to, but venture just two blocks further and you’ll land on charming Les Caves de Prague. Its slightly off-the-beaten-path placement means it’s less touristy and prices remain very approachable. What’s more, Manager, Thomas (of the blanquette reference above), serves a curated selection of bottles with an honest warmth and clear passion for wine. I’m also a big fan of Ici-même, which carries a wonderful selection of natural wines.
Boulangerie Bo, Erin Dahl
There’s no shortage of quality boulangeries in the neighborhood, and each has its place. Boulangerie Bo is a favorite for specialty baguettes, like their baguette à l’encre de seiche, a jet-black baguette flavored with cumin and squid ink. Blé Sucré is a must for madeleines, croissants, and pains au chocolat. And newcomer Farine&O has become a go-to for a crusty tradition.
Carnivores shouldn’t miss Boucherie les Provinces, a fabulous butcher situated on the rue d’Aligre. Their filet de boeuf and boeuf haché are particularly special. The shop also offers the option to dine-in, employing the same system as a wine bar: choose your cut of meat at the counter, pay an affordable droit de cuisson, sit down and enjoy.
Passerini Restaurant & Co
The neighborhood is teeming with praised Italian newcomers, including Le Fooding’s pick for Best Chef 2017: Passerini. The sit-down restaurant is not to miss, but if you can’t get table, consider heading next-door Pastificio Passerini, where you can pick up fresh pasta to cook at home.
Passerini Restaurant & Co
Passager Café is quickly becoming the neighborhood’s favorite new coffee shop. Located in the 11th just north of the Ledru-Rollin metro station, the simple and sophisticated space was opened by blogueuse, Fannyb, and sources its beans from Berlin favorite, Five Elephant.
Le Pop-up du Label
Cozy up on a leather Chesterfield sofa and enjoy a boozy cocktail at Le China, a sultry multi-story space that recalls 1930s Shanghai. While it houses a restaurant and bar, I recommend going for the latter. There is also live music in the club space downstairs, with a solid line-up of jazz and soul shows.
Passager Café
If you’re waxing more lively than romantic, check out Le Pop-up du Label, first discovered thanks to a Paris Pop-up event there in 2014. A bar and casual restaurant upstairs and live music space downstairs, the spot has a little something for every taste, from free Mardi Jazz each Tuesday evening to periodic 90s hip-hop dance parties. The bar upstairs also carries Club Mate, always a plus in my book.
If shopping is in the cards, don’t miss one of the most charming boutiques in the neighborhood: Les Fleurs. The quirky boutique is located just north of the market and is a go-to for gifts and home decor alike, with affordable handmade pottery, pilea plants, candles, and much more.
Marché d’Aligre, Erin Dahl; Boucherie Les Provinces
Marché d’Aligre – Place d’Aligre, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin.
Les Caves de Prague – 8 rue de Prague, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 72 68 07 36.
Ici-même – 68 rue de Charenton, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 40 00 99
Boulangerie Bo – 85bis rue de Charenton, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 07 75 21
Blé Sucré – 7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 40 77 73
Farine&O – 153 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 72 68 07 36
Boucherie les Provinces – 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 43 91 64
Restaurant Passerini – 65 Rue Traversière, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 44 74 67 84
Passager Café – 18 Passage de la Bonne Graine, 75011. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 99 06
Le China – 50 rue de Charenton, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 46 08 09
Le Pop-up du Label – 14 rue Abel, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 77 11 04 24
Les Fleurs – 5 rue Trousseau, 75011. Métro: Ledru-Rollin.
Related Links
- Le China made Lily’s list for romantic Valentine’s Day spots; check out her other recommendations for new date-night ideas.
- Rue de Charonne is just north of the Quartier d’Aligre, and one of Messy Nessy Chic’s favorite shopping areas in Paris.
- I first fell for this neighborhood thanks to David Lebovitz’s piece on its addresses. See his favorite spots.
Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven In.
WRITTEN BY
Erin Dahl
Erin’s had a whimsical affair with Paris since her first trip as a wide-eyed teenager. She is Editor for the HiP Paris Blog as well as Co-founder of Content Coopérative, Paris’s first English-native content agency.
Thanks for this great article. Hopefully, I’ll be back in Paris this summer and will try to go back to the neighbourhood, where I spent a fabulous month of May in 2015. I can vouch for how wonderful the marché is, and now you’ve given me some great addresses to add to my list!