On a windy night this past fall, I brought my godfather to his first proper Paris dinner. Naturally, I went with a restaurant I was dying to try: Roseval. Tucked away in the 20th, north of Pere Lachaise and just off the Rue de Menilmontant, the location was sort of perfect. I’ve come to know this off-the-tourist-path neighborhood a bit better over the past few years and love the foodie ventures it draws.
The exterior of Roseval is unassuming — a beautiful and perfectly aged stone façade. The interior, a rustic-meets-industrial space with just a handful of wooden tables.
Upon being seated, two menus were quickly dropped off for our review. Listing several ingredients for each course, we were given a brief glimpse into what we’d be eating that evening but no sense of the form, as is becoming increasingly common with this style of new wave, low key gastronomic bistro. I love this element of surprise though it may not be best for a pickier eater (also in part because there are no options; you get what they give you). Our ingredient list included:
Veau de Lait/Chou/Epautre
Since we weren’t clear on what exactly we’d be eating, we asked for a wine recommendation from Sommelier Erika Biswell, and ended up with a bottle of Le Vin des Amis, a tasty blend from the Languedoc that we found to be totally pleasant.
Our first course was as I’d imagined: thin slices of monkfish filet with cubes of radish, chervil leaves, a bit of oil. It was quite simple, but a wonderful opening despite some small pieces of the fish being overly chewy.
The second course was a bit more surprising. I read beet and feta and my mind immediately envisioned something cold, but we were served a delicate mushroom broth swimming with large pieces of various mushrooms, golden beets, and feta. I am an absolute sucker for a simple brothy soup, so this was a hit in my book.
The third course brought a similar construction, but an entirely different flavor profile (thankfully). We received a wonderfully tender veau de lait stew of sorts (the liquid was more of a broth), which was served with spelt and cabbage. It was a simple, succulent bowl of perfection. Another hit.
The cheese plate was just average for me. The choices themselves were quite good, but there were two goat cheeses. I love me some chèvre, but one on a plate of three is sufficient.
The meal concluded with a dessert that was on par with the first three courses. A wonderful balance of sweet and savory with layers of crisp pear and celeriac, a little bite from the cardamom, and a quenelle of citrusy sorbet.
Overall, the meal at Roseval was an absolute treat. The fixed menu above was a reasonable 45 € and the elevated, yet relaxed fare and atmosphere were worth every centime.
1 Rue d’Eupatoria, 75020 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)9 53 56 24 14
Written by Erin Dahl for the HiP Paris Blog. All photos by Didier Gauducheau. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.