Winter is swiftly arriving in Paris and locals are warding off the froid in perfect French fashion: by gathering around tables and sharing delicious, warm, homemade food. For those who haven’t perfected the art of preparing hearty winter meat dishes or simply don’t have a table big enough for all their friends, the solution to their plight is Le Mordant – a carnivore’s paradise clothed in chic interior design.
Located on the outskirts of the 10th arrondissement at a crossroads of just-barely-cool bars and Gare de l’Est sprawl, Le Mordant may be the harbinger of an up-and-coming neighborhood of the future. The sleek and modern design definitely secures its spot as a place to be instagrammed (a heavily attended Fashion Week event that was recently held at the restaurant gained it extra points in the blogerati scene).
Despite the undeniable coolness of the dining room and the staff, many of the most charming touches to the interior came about naturally. Upon purchasing the space – a former supermarket on rue Chabrol – the team behind Le Mordant was happy to find themselves wealthy in hidden treasures; the removal of hideous tiled floors revealed pristine hardwood floors and the tearing down of plastered walls revealed charming exposed brick.
Another unexpected gift of the space was a load-bearing wall that couldn’t be torn down, and therefore lead to the creation of a long, narrow private room with just enough room for a table and about a dozen of your closest friends. The private room is a perfect spot for ladies lunches, holiday parties, or any type of large gatherings, which so often have a hard time fitting in Paris restaurants.
The spirit of sharing extends to the dinner menu, which is a collection of meat-centric dishes designed to be split among groups. An early Autumn evening had a menu which included surprising favorites like Boudin Noir croquettes with a yogurt sauce (8 euro), special treats like Grilled Octopus with Zucchini and Olive Tapenade (14 euro), and crowd-pleasers like the chef’s American-inspired Hot Ribs “Daddy Roger” with Sweet Potatoes (14 euro).
While vegetarians will have a hard time getting their fill, veggie lovers will be delighted to find that the chef’s skills extend beyond the realm of meat; the roasted Swiss Chard that accompanied a succulent lamb (16 euro) almost stole the show and the simple plate of seasonal roasted vegetables (7 euro) is exactly what one should do with root vegetables.
The lunch menu is more suited to singles and smaller groups, with a constantly changing seasonal formule that features no more than three starters, four main courses, and three dessert options.
Meals are paired with a well-researched natural wine menu, which will be a comfort to both wine geeks and neophytes. Hearty round wines from sunnier climates make a classic pairing to a meaty meal, but daring diners might go with a more subtle, peppery wine from the Loire region or a cherry red Gamay from Beaujolais. Or a bottle of each. At Le Mordant, the wine, like food, is more fun when it’s shared.
Le Mordant –61 rue de Chabrol, 75010. Métro: Poissonnière. Tel: +33 (0)9 83 40 60 04. Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm, 7pm-12am, Sat 7pm-12am
- Why not start the evening with some cocktails at nearby Lavomatic, a fun bar hidden through a laundromat.
- For more meat, alongside great craft beer, check out our review of Le Triangle, also in the 10th arrondissement.
- Eager to try your own hand at some French-inspired cooking? Emily’s book My Paris Market is a great place to start.