Food

Paris’ Best Neighborhood Markets

by Emily Dilling

More than just points of sale for fruits, produce, fish, and cheese, markets in Paris bring together communities and are indispensable resources to anyone who lives in the city and likes to cook. 

Paris neighborhood markets sell everything from flowers like these beautiful bouquets lined up on a bench  (left) to exotic fruit like pineapples (right).
Bastille market, Diana Liu

People-watching, local gossip, the changing of the seasons… the beauty of daily life is accentuated in the city’s 70+ neighborhood markets. Whether you’re out for a stroll or looking for a local producer, Paris’ markets are an energizing way to start your day in the city. 

A vegetable stall at the Bastille market in Paris (left). The stalls at the Bastille fruit and vegetable market (right).
Bastille market, Diana Liu

While the format of the market has largely stayed the same, some marchés have inspired the creation of related commerce and expanded market streets around them. 

A stall vendor sorting out the crates of fruit on his stall at the Bastille market in Paris (left). A stall selling summer fruit like cherries, apricots and melon  (right).
Bastille market, Diana Liu

Diving back into the manuscript to make updates for the new edition of My Paris Market Cookbook brought me back in touch with my favorite places in Paris: the markets. Here are a few of my favorite Paris markets and addresses of note in their surrounding areas:

Marché Ornano

My heart will always belong to the 18th arrondissement, but even if you’re not enamored with the rough edges of Paris, you’ll fall for this lively marché where you can buy locally grown vegetables (and beautiful flowers in the spring and summer) from Jean-Michel Delahaye. Look for the long lines of locals and ladies of un certain age and you’re in the right place! 

Inside the light and bright El Tast restaurant in the 18th arrondissement, which sells craft beer.
El Tast

In addition to having this bustling market on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday mornings, the neighborhood is home to some pretty innovative sustainable shopping options. La Louve is a nearby food coop that works directly with producers and engages members to take shifts in the store in order to bring down prices for everyone.

The wooden tables and chairs at El Tast restaurant in Paris (left) and a ham board with crusty baguette and red wine at El Tast (right).
El Tast

After shopping, head to El Tast, where Iberian charcuterie and Parisian beers collide in this space owned by a Spanish team of beer geeks. Snacks from their native land come together with locally sourced craft beer to create the perfect apéro

Marché d’Aligre

You can’t talk about Paris markets without mentioning the Marché d’Aligre, which has become a tourist destination in its own right. Made up of both an outdoor street market and a historic covered Marché Beauvau (which luckily escaped extensive damage during a fire in 2017), this popular market has taken over its corner of the 12th arrondissement. The adjacent Place d’Aligre and rue d’Aligre are dotted with wonderful food shops, including the charming La Graineterie du Marché and Les Chocolats d’Aligre. Or stray a bit from the market for a morning nibble at famed bakery Blé Sucré

Artisanal cheese displays at Jay and Joy cheese shop at the Aligre market.
Jay & Joy

For more gastronomic delights, stroll to the nearby rue Paul Bert where you’ll find the Paul Bert restaurant empire has welcomed some new neighbors, including Jay & Joy confectioners of vegan “cheese” and the newest Terroirs d’Avenir shop making it’s first non-rue-du-Nil appearance. And don’t leave this area without picking up a bottle of natural wine from Cru et Découvertes

Marché Bastille

Orchard-fresh apples and veggies from the surrounding Paris area dot the aisles of the expansive Marché Bastille. A great spot for people-watching, this Thursday/Sunday market draws tourists and locals alike thanks to its central location, convenient hours, and quality products. Monsieur Martinet and Monsieur Baudry are two independent producers you’ll find at this market. along with another exciting draw: fresh-off-the-griddle crêpes and galettes from a stand specializing in products from Brittany.

Pretty chocolate slabs (left) and chocolate spread (right) from Alain Ducasse's Manufacture chocolate shop in Bastille.
Manufacture du Chocolat Alain Ducasse

The surrounding neighborhood – which has up until now largely been a thoroughfare for cars or metro transfers – is becoming increasing attentive to quality products. The student bar-lined rue de la Roquette is also home to the discretely located Manufacture du Chocolat Alain Ducasse.

The counter at Ten Belles bakery in Bastille (left) where you can also sit down for lunch of eggs and salad (right).
Ten Belles Bread

Pick up a loaf or stay for a sandwich at Ten Belles Bread, where chefs Alice Quillet and Anna Trattles continue to bring high-quality breakfast and lunch delights to Paris – as well as providing over 50 Paris restaurants with their signature bread. After your market morning, take a break at Neighbours, where the coffee is only the best and the friendly service makes you feel like a local. 

A spongy cake and cookies (left) and espresso coffee on a blue saucer set on a table (right) at Neighbours coffee shop in Paris.
Neighbours

Marché Bio Batignolles

One of three all-organic markets in Paris, this is the place to go if you want to buy bio. Although it shares many vendors with its sister market, the Marché Bio Raspail, this 17th arrondissement incarnation is larger and often a little less crowded than its Left Bank equivalent. Another draw is the selection of nearby shops that function as an extension of the market. La Récolte set up its first shop just down the road from Marché Batignolles and continues to provide locally, ethically sourced produce and prepared food to its customers. 

Marché Anvers 

One of the city’s few afternoon markets, Marché Anvers operates during the apéro-friendly hours of 3-8:30pm on Fridays. Pick up some marinated olives or fresh goat cheese here and you’re ready for wine drinking with Parisian friends!

The terrace (left) and latté with creamy swirls in a blue cup on a wooden table (right) at KB Coffee Shop in Paris.
KB Coffee Roasters

The area is also filled with charming addresses stocking thoughtful craft products, such as KB Coffee Roasters where you’ll get one of the best cafés in town and Rose Bakery on the adored rue des Martyrs, where Franco-British pastries are hard to pass up. 

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Written by Emily Dilling for HiP Paris. Market images by Diana Liu. Looking to travel? Check out Haven In for a fabulous vacation, or long term, rental in Paris, Italy, France or elsewhere in Europe.

Written By

Emily Dilling

Emily Dilling is a France based writer and author of My Paris Market Cookbook: A Culinary Tour of French Flavors and Seasonal Recipes. In 2005 Emily moved to Paris from her native California and began exploring the cities markets, restaurants, and cafés. In 2010 she founded the blog Paris Paysanne, where she writes about her favorite addresses and artisans in the city. Emily currently lives in the Loir-et-Cher region of France, where she writes and works in the grapevines. View Emily Dilling's Website

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