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Meg Zimbeck
If you enjoy the Marais and are a history buff or a market troll, you must take the time to discover the oldest market in Paris : le Marché des Enfants Rouges.
First off, a little history to get everyone situated. Marguerite de Navarre, sister of King François the 1st and mother of King Henri the 4th (who was the one to end the religious wars that had been bloodying France), was a very well educated, politically engaged and charitable member of the royal family. In 1534 she had an orphanage constructed in what is now the Marais whose little pensioners were dressed in red as a symbol of their status. The orphanage was closed in the beginning of the 17th century and in 1615 was transformed into a market dubbed the Marché des Enfants Rouges (market of red children) to commemorate the charitable establishment that had occupied the site for almost a century.
Meg ZimbeckIt remains a market today and has been on the list of national historical monuments since 1982. Today, neighborhood locals still congregate to shop for produce and fresh products, to have a coffee and to converse with other locals, old-timers and merchants. What is interesting about the marché now is the diversity of its different merchants and products. An Afro-Antilles café serves up delectable bites to hungry shoppers; the friendly owner of the Italian booth proposes Illy café on its year-round terrace and will advise you exhaustively on his wines (for which he has a secret passion); a Breton will whip you up a crêpe (but don’t photograph him without asking, he might squawk at you); Moroccan delicacies tempt you from one corner while Portuguese and South American products beckon from the other… You can even browse an antique shop or park yourself on a bistrot terrace in the back. People even actually still come here for their weekly produce runs, for goodies from fish to flowers to figs.
Melissa LaddLocated off of the Rue de Bretagne in the 3rd arrdt., the market is open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday from 8:30am to 1:00pm and from 4:00pm to 7:30pm; Friday and Saturday : from 8:30am to 1:00pm and from 4:00pm to 8:00pm; Sunday : from 8:30am to 2:00pm
Métro Arts et Métiers (line 11 & 3), Temple (line 3), Filles du Calvaire (line 8).
Related links:
- Meg Zimbeck’s excursion
- Le Best of Paris also stopped by
- Our thoughts on what to do if you’re spending the day in the Marais.
Written by Melissa Ladd for HipParis.com. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.
21 comments on “Market Shopping: Marché des Enfants Rouges”
thanks for the article i’ll save it on my favourites
Hello I just moved into the area and have loved being able to go here. I was in Montmatre before and was worried I would not be able to find anything to compare with rue Lepic. This market has helped. I really like the bread from Alain and his crêpes look good to but I have not yet been tempted. The Rotisserie has some really succulent meat and also attentive service. Au Cion Bio is a little disappointing as the food is very overpriced and quite tasteless and such a pity as it is in a nice spot. I get my fruit and veg here too. Thanks for the pics 🙂
Market troll – love it, that’s me!
Enfants Rouges is such a great little one that shows a great side of French culture often overlooked by tourists – the North African influence adds so much to the tapestry of Paris.
Very nice photos Meg!
I love this market. It’s so genuine and friendly. Haven’t been there too much though, I have to change that since being a history junkie AND a market troll as you nicely put it 🙂 I have some nice pictures from there from the last time I went and you inspired me to soon do something about that blog post I have kept waiting.
Thank you for a bit of a history lesson. How interesting. Marguerite de Navarre sounded like an intriguing and impressive woman. The atmosphere you describe sounds like a lovely place to visit.