Three Discoveries on a Secret Paris Séjour

by Tory Hoen
Paris Museum: Musee de la chasse et de la natureJulien Hausherr – Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature

Surprise! I made a super-quick trip to France last month. I only told a handful of friends that I was going because I had just 6 days to do what I do in Paris, which is nothing (blissfully). Or at least, nothing planned.

Per usual, I didn’t look at my watch (my figurative watch… I don’t actually have one) the whole week. I did, however,  manage to make three new discoveries that I’m pretty thrilled about:

1. Aux Deux Amis is a wonderfully understated neighborhood wine bar and resto that embodies everything I love about eating in Paris. The regularly-shifting menu is written in chalk, the waiters offer candid advice about what’s good and what’s even better, the place is full (but not annoyingly so), and we left feeling healthier, happier, and somehow lighter (the paradoxical effect of good French cuisine). 45, rue Oberkampf, 11eme. Tel: 01 58 30 38 13.

Paris Secret Sejour - Cafe Baci RestaurantJulien Hausherr – Cafe Baci

2. The mind-blowingly awesome Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Museum of Hunting and Nature). I really have no excuse for not visiting earlier: The moment I stepped inside, I felt like the place had been constructed, designed, and curated for me and me alone. Its lavish interiors are filled with taxidermy animals of all shapes and sizes (fox! polar bear! owl faces on the ceiling!), ornate weaponry and other “curiosities.” And you can touch things! I’ve been accused of saying this too often, but it’s my new favorite place in Paris. For real this time. 62, rue des Archives, 3eme. Tel: 01 53 01 92 40.

Paris Museum - Musee de la chasse et de la natureJulien Hausherr – Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature
Paris Museum - Musee de la chasse et de la nature
Julien Hausherr – Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature

Paris Museum - Musee de la chasse et de la nature Julien Hausherr – Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature
Paris Museum - Musee de la chasse et de la nature 5Julien Hausherr – Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature
Paris Museum - Musee de la chasse et de la nature 4Julien Hausherr – Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature

3. Cafe Baci in the Marais. I usually avoid swanky, scene-y eateries in favor of more rustic / spastic / unpretentious spots, but once in a while, the Jet Set gets it right. This sleek bi-level cafe (we snagged a seat on the sidewalk) in the heart of the Marais serves up artfully-presented seasonal cuisine. They had me at “Chablis,” but after we tackled a cabillaud (poached cod) accompanied by farm-fresh vegetables and a moelleux au chocolat, I was seriously sold. 36, rue de Turenne, 3eme. Tel: 01 42 71 36 70.

Secret Paris Sejour Cafe BaciJulien Hausherr – Cafe Baci
Paris Secret Sejour Cafe BaciJulien Hausherr – Cafe Baci

So that’s three more “must go back to…” spots on my ever-growing list, as if I needed any more excuses to come to Paris. This is getting ridiculous.

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Written by Tory Hoen. Julien Hausherr is a photographer based in Paris, specializing in architecture, still-life and reporting. Contact: [email protected] Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Written By

Tory Hoen

After attending Brown University and spending two years in New York, Tory bought a one-way ticket to Paris to pursue her dream of becoming a writer (and of drinking wine at lunch). During her time in the City of Light, she chronicled the euphoric highs and the laughable lows of ex-pat life on her blog, A Moveable Beast. Though she's now based in New York, she travels frequently to Montreal and Brazil, and she'll use just about any excuse to jet to Paris ("I ran out of fleur de sel"). A regular contributor to Hip Paris, Tory also writes for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, and she is a co-author of's Guide To Life After College. View Tory Hoen's Website

7 comments on “Three Discoveries on a Secret Paris Séjour

Done, done and done! I am hitting all three of these spots in Paris – thanks for the great tips!

Julien did an amazing job with the photos! Thank you. I can’t wait to check out the museum. Thanks Tory. Erica

That museum looks gorgeous!

Great read, cool new spots to add to my list and amazing photography! Well done!

Sion @ paris (im)perfect

Wow, these photos are fabulous. I’ve had several people tell me to check out the Hunting Museum, but honestly, not sure yet how I’d do with taxidermy animals! Definitely an off-beat place, though!

Oh and Baci is lovely! It’s a bit expensive for what it is and the servers are not always cordial, but the atmosphere is definitely plush. Great photos!

It’s so funny to see how Aux Deux Amis has become a trendy favorite. I’ve been living in that general area for 4 years and I remember when it was a seedy and decrepit, full of old men hitting the bottle as early as 9am. It was a sad state on rue Oberkampf. Some might say the neighborhood is becoming too hispter – the older generations are progressively gentrified and the younger (and corporate) blood is taking over and upgrading the vacant shops and buildings. I say, change never hurts.

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