Ah, Montmartre. The village-inside-a-city, perched atop the hill. Neighborhood locals, known as “Montmartrois,” are typically die-hard fans of their touristy-cum-quaint quartier. And we can’t disagree.
To dodge the crowds and catch a panoramic view, head up early (before 10am) and stroll around Sacré Cœur. For those planning on cooking or just wanting to catch a local vibe, make your way to the market street on rue du Poteau after hitting these other 18ème (18th district) addresses we love.
Where to Eat
- Kiez: Paris’s first German-style biergarten, Kiez is perfect for those looking for a quick and hearty bite, or trying to nurse a hangover with a beer. As any self-respecting biergarten should, Kiez offers up a meat-heavy selection of bites, ranging from schnitzel and wursts to kebabs and burgers.
There are even a veggie-friendly maultaschen (a ravioli-like dish). And naturally, you have a solid selection of bottled and on-tap beers. It’s up there in the 18th, but it’s a nice stroll to the northern part of the neighborhood.
- Soul Kitchen: The cozy wood-and-brick décor at Soul Kitchen will make you almost feel like you’re in your own kitchen. Head over in the morning for a tea accompanied by a cinnamon roll, extra-large muffin, or gluten-free cookie. Or in the afternoon for a healthy, homemade lunch (think mac and cheese, veggie bowls, fresh side salads).
Where to go for Tea or Coffee
- La Bossue: Open throughout the day, this cute pâtisserie-comptoir is a perfect stop-off for a Sunday goûter (a sweet afternoon snack). Whether you’re in the mood for madeleines or granola-topped fig tarte, La Bossue has you covered. And the coffee is organic to boot.
- Café Pimpin: “Good coffee and easy food” is the name of the game at this welcoming café. When you’re ready for a break from neighborhood trotting, order up a Lomi espresso, sit back, and enjoy. If you’re hungry, the rotating menu features items like panini, tapas, and brunch on Sundays.
Where to View Art
- Musée de Montmartre: Home to some of the world’s greatest artists, Montmartre was a hub for creative of all types. The eponymous museum houses permanent and temporary collections that tell the story of the neighborhood via those who knew it best. The museum itself was even once a residence for greats like Auguste Renoir and Maurice Utrillo. For visitors with little ones, there’s an extra bonus: On Sundays, the museum hosts ateliers for kids at 10:30am.
- Halle Saint-Pierre: Located adjacent to the Sacré Coeur, this museum is decidedly a more contemporary take on the art scene. Opened by avid racecar driver and art collector, Max Fourny, in the ‘60s, the space now houses over 500 works of modern 20th-century art.
Where to go Shopping
- Chinemachine: The vintage enthusiast will feel right at home in this well-curated shop just steps from the Abbesses metro station. You could stumble on a pair of vintage worn-but-affordable Gucci kitten heels, or a fabulous pair of no-name (but isn’t that cooler anyway?) tailored leopard pants. It’s very much worth a stop, promise.
- Spree: The go-to concept store in the neighborhood, this shop carries a slew of on-trend brand names like Comme des Garçons, MSGM, and Ulla Johnson, as well as its own brand, simply called Spree.
How to Get There
Numerous metro lines stop in Montmartre and the best option depends where you want to start your day. But in all likelihood, you’ll be looking for the line 2 (Anvers, Pigalle, or Blanche stops) or line 12 (Pigalle, Abbesses, or Lamarck – Caulaincourt stops).
Addresses (and opening hours)
Kiez – 24 rue Vauvenargues. Open 10am-2pm Sundays.
Soul Kitchen – 33 rue Lamarck. Open 8:45am-6:30pm Sundays.
La Bossue – 9 rue Joseph de Maistre. Open 10:30am-7pm Sundays.
Café Pimpin – 64 rue Ramey. Open 11am-6pm Sundays.
Musée de Montmartre – 12 rue Cortot. Open 10am-6pm Sundays.
Halle Saint-Pierre – 2 Rue Ronsard. Open 12-6pm Sundays.
Chinemachine – 100 rue des Martyrs. Open 1-8pm Sundays.
Spree – 16 rue Lavieuville. Open 3-7pm Sundays.
- Read about learning to love Montmartre.
- Visit Café des Deux Moulins from the French film “Amélie”.
- Find out what’s open on Sundays in the Marais.
Written by Erin Dahl for HiP Paris. Looking to travel? Check out Haven In for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long-term or buy in France or Italy? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates.