Sundays in Paris: What to do on a Sunday in the Marais

The Neighborhood

The Marais’ popularity has skyrocketed over the past decade, and for good reason. Its central Seine-side location and winding cobblestone streets make it both a convenient and picturesque quartier. Add to that a plethora of galleries hip designer boutiques and you have a veritable destination.

And there’s a bonus: The Marais stays open on Sunday. Not every shop or eatery, but enough that the neighborhood feels alive on those typically quiet dimanches (Sundays). 

Where To Go

Food

• Miznon: If the Marais is a hub for Israeli cuisine, rue des Rosiers is its HQ. But when you want an upgrade from L’As du Falafel, pop around the corner to Miznon. The low-frills Israeli canteen, which just opened up its second location on Canal St. Martin following its Marais success, serves up Tel Aviv-meets-Paris plates that are as fresh as they are flavorful. Think lamb kebab, beef “bourguignon” pita, a perfectly charred roasted head of cauliflower, or a caramelized banana and chocolate dessert.

• C.A.M: If you’re feeling lucky, try your hand at snagging a dinner table at C.A.M. A collab by Esu Lee (ex-Passerini) and Phil Euell (Boot Café), this Franco-Korean resto has become one of the Marais’ most elusive addresses. No reservations, no phone number, and limited space could be deterrents, but the laid-back vibe, fusion bites (beef tartare with XO sauce, calamari and lard gimbap), and natural wine list make up for it. 

Coffee/Tea

• Gramme: This warm, welcoming newcomer to the Marais café scene is the perfect timeout from an afternoon of strolling. Coffee is sourced from Café Lomi and teas from Kodama. To complete the goûter, grab a homemade sweet too, like salted caramel apple cake, chocolate hazelnut cookies, or brioche French toast with caramel and popcorn. Hungry for more? Gramme also has a full menu of mouthwatering savory dishes. And if you’re just in need of a caffeine fix, you can even grab your cappuccino or latte to go, a convenience that isn’t a given in Paris.

• Bontemps: The Marais isn’t want for hidden gardens, and the best way to enjoy one is with a drink and dessert in hand. Behind Bontemps Pâtisserie sits the tearoom and “secret garden” by the same name. Order your favorite pot of tea and choose from one of their many stunning sweets. Favorites include their sablés and lemon cake. 

Art

• Maison Européenne de la Photographie: Situated in a former hôtel particulier, this museum is a temple to photography. The Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP) boasts a permanent collection of about 20,000 works dating from 1950 to today, as well as 20 temporary exhibitions from emerging and established talents alike. Currently on view is Henry Wessel, A Dark Thread, a three-part series by the late Californian photographer. 

• L’Atelier Brancusi: Steps from modern-art behemoth the Centre Pompidou sits a more petite exhibition space, L’Atelier Brancusi. A celebrated 20^th century sculptor, Constantin Brancusi left his home Romania to live and create in Paris in 1904. Upon his death in 1957, his life’s work was given to the French State on one condition: that they recreate his 15^ème arrondissement studio. The identical copy now sits facing the Pompidou and houses some 137 sculptures, 41 drawings, and 2 paintings.

Shopping

• Kilo Shop: A visit to the Marais merits some vintage shopping and Kilo Shop is a neighborhood staple. The two boutiques en face on the rue de la Verrerie a troves of on-trend men’s and women’s clothing, shoes, and accessories. The brand, which has two other locations in Paris, hit the vintage sweet spot in our book: an extensive-yet-curated selection of wares at reasonable prices.

• Officine Universelle Buly 1803: Setting foot in this shop is enough to transport you to another era—a well-groomed cabinet of curiosities with rich wood-paneled walls, black marble, built-in glass displays, and elegantly matching staff. And the house’s products do not disappoint. Painterly labels and ornate packaging hold ancient remedies (plant oils, powders, clays, stones), perfumes, candles, and more. Whether going for a dose of self-care or looking for an elevated gift, Buly 1803 is a must visit.

And bonus ideas…

• Serpent à Plume: If a long day leaves you feeling thirsty for a unique nightcap, stop by Serpent à Plume on the Place de Vosges. A quirky speakeasy hidden beneath Alexander Keyes Rash’s pajamas-velour tailoring-art book concept store, the lounge space is decidedly 70s with Mesoamericas touches. And you can’t go wrong with the cocktail list, featuring drinks like the eponymous: Vida mezcal, Drambuie, Quaglia al Pino Mugo, Mancino Chinato, smoked rosemary.

How To Get There

Numerous metro lines stop in the Marais and the best option depends where you want to start your day. Take the 1 for the south Marais near the Seine, the 8 for north and east along Boulevard Beaumarchais, and the 3 or 11 for the west.

Addresses/Hours

• Miznon: 22 rue des Écouffes. Sunday-Thursday 12-11pm, Friday 12-4pm. Closed Saturday.
• CAM: 55 rue au Maire. Wednesday-Sunday 7pm-12am. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
• Gramme: 86 rue des Archives. Monday, Wednesday-Friday 9-4pm, Saturday-Sunday 10-7. Closed Tuesday.
• Bontemps: 57 rue de Bretagne. Wednesday-Friday 11am-7:30pm, Saturday 10am-7:30pm, Sunday 10am-6pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
• Maison Européenne de la Photographie: 5/7 rue de Fourcy. Wednesday 11am-8pm, Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-8pm, Saturday-Sunday 10am-8pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
• L’Atelier Brancusi: Place Georges Pompidou. Wednesday-Monday 4-6pm. Closed Tuesday.
• Kilo Shop: 65 & 69 rue de la Verrerie. Monday-Friday 11am-7:30pm, Saturday 11am-7:45pm, Sunday 2-7:30pm.
• Buly 1803: 45 rue de Saintonge. Tuesday-Saturday 12-7pm, Sunday 12-6pm. Closed Monday.
• Serpent à Plume: 24 place des Vosges. Wednesday-Saturday 10-2am, Sunday 10-1am.

Related Links

• Check out our favourite places to have lunch in the Marais.
• You could also visit Lafayette Anticipations.
• Head to Passerini for Italian classics revisited.

Written by Erin Dahl for HiP Paris. Looking to travel? Check out Haven In for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long-term or buy in France or Italy? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates.