There is no shortage of accomplished cooking in Paris. But truth be told, it is not so often that we find soulful, more-ish food that makes us want to come back to a place again and again. Colvert, in the 6th arrondissement is a hidden gem eatery offering old-world ambiance, unpretentious service and satisfying food that fits the bill in a way that can be surprisingly hard to find in Paris.
The restaurant was recently refurbished, and reopened with a new chef and menu. It seemingly straddles a number of worlds. Technically neither a bistro nor a restaurant, but a little of both. The food is sophisticated but has the swagger of chef Arnaud Baptiste’s bold personality. Baptiste built his career in the renowned kitchens of places like au Meurice, Carré des Feuillants and also Allénothèque. Top Chef propelled him and his audacious cooking into the limelight.
The ground floor dining room has been tastefully re-done giving it a timeless quality. It’s bathed in light with a décor made up of raw materials like the rustic stone walls. Together with the homage to Aubusson tapestry in the main dining room the décor and materials add a boatload of character to the space. The service is exceptionally inviting and friendly.
Seasonal, fresh ingredients and beautiful plating characterize the menu which changes weekly. It is reasonably priced for the quality of the food. The prix-fixe lunch in particular offers good value at 35 euros for three courses. While the freshness of the ingredients are allowed to shine, the dishes don’t shy away from strong umami flavors and generous sauces. The Gravadlax with radish, dill, and lemon cream was the perfect combination of rich fish, and a light cream sauce balanced by the freshness of the herbs, crunchy radish and tart citrus.
The off-menu curry spiced fish, grilled with cucumber and dill on a bed of herb infused yoghurt was, again, the perfect combo of luxurious fish balanced by the coolness of the cucumber, yoghurt, herbs and citrus.
The lamb with feta, mint and crispy kale was a burst of robust flavor. The jus and feta had an intense savory-ness while the crispy kale was a perfect contrast to the rich tender, lamb.
For dessert the in-season cherry clafoutis was pretty as a picture, adorned with oxalis. But there was nothing dainty about the dish which was pure comfort food. It was a gratifying end to a meal, cooked from the heart, at a local gem that is destined to be one of our new favorite haunts.
30, rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris
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