Heading east on line nine, you’re welcomed to the unique Paris suburb as your metro tram whizzes by the Montreuil station Maraîchers.
Named after the market gardeners of this formerly green and fertile region, this vestige of the area’s agricultural history prepares you for what Montreuil has now become: a city proud of its bucolic past and embracing its diverse and progressive present.
Montreuil’s agricultural richness is often exemplified by the peaches that were once largely cultivated there. The remarkable size and sweetness of the fruits, along with their impressive consumers which included Louis XIV and the Queen of England, made the region renown for its savoir faire in the orchards.
The association Murs à Pêches is dedicated to preserving the remaining 80 acres of peach trees and invites visitors to come and visit this living history of Montreuil on Sunday afternoons from 2:30-4:30pm.
If you can’t make it to the Murs à Pêches, you can still enjoy the company of peach trees in the charming courtyard of L’Amourette. This quaint restaurant and café is open every day and serves typical French fare for reasonably priced lunch and dinner services, with fair trade coffee served throughout the day.
L’Amourette is a great spot to stop before Marché de la Croix de Chavaux, the city’s covered market that is open three days a week. Here you will find a mixture of textiles, blingy jewelry, and, of course, fruits and vegetables.
My Food Montreuil
Locally grown products are unfortunately few and far between, but you will find a small selection of producers who come to the market stocking stalls with overflowing bunches of fresh herbs and a smattering of seasonal produce that they grew themselves.
After your market adventure, head to lunch at a growing number of great addresses in the neighborhood. Little Kitchen serves classic bistro offerings with an exciting dessert menu as a cherry on top. And My Food Montreuil is a carnivore’s dream come true. This South African restaurant prepares most of its menu on a giant outdoor barbecue, making for a festive summer dining experience in the middle of the city.
*Please note that as of 2021, My Food Montreuil is permanently closed*
Chef Kobus Botha occasionally takes his show on the road, setting up his grill at street food events and gatherings around the capital. Venture deeper into Montreuil and discover Le Mange Disc, whose menu makes Paris prices hard to go back to and where the friendly welcome makes it even easier to stay awhile.
Le Mange Disc
After experiencing Montreuil’s flora and food, the next step is to delve into the city’s most recent specialty: craft beer. After opening up their brewery earlier this year, Deck & Donohue quickly became rising stars of the region’s craft brewing scene. The Franco-American brewers, Thomas Deck and Mike Donohue, welcome visitors to their brewery on Saturdays from 10am-3pm.
Have one more for the road at La Montreuilloise brewery. Keeping it in the Montreuil family, brewer Jérome Martinez is carrying on the tradition of one of the neighborhood’s earliest microbreweries, Zymotik, and using their equipment to make organic beer using artisanal methods. The brewery welcomes visitors on Fridays from 5-7:30pm and Saturdays from 10am-12pm.
Montreuil may have moved on from its bucolic splendor of the past, but Paris’ neighbor to the east is emerging as one of the most exciting and active cities in the Ile-de-France region. Easily accessible from Paris and full of local treasures to discover, Montreuil merits inclusion in any beer lover’s, urban farmer’s, or foodie’s itinerary.
- Les Murs à Pêches – Impasse Gobetue, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)1 48 70 23 80
- L’Amourette – 54 rue Robespierre, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)1 48 59 99 94
- Marché couvert de la Croix de Chavaux, Place de la Croix de Chavaux, 93100 Montreuil
- Little Kitchen – 80 rue de Paris, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 87 93 22
- My Food Montreuil – 22 rue Robespierre, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)1 48 57 99 68
- Le Mange Disc – 50 rue de Romainville, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)9 83 54 60 27
- Deck & Donohue – 71 rue de la Fraternité, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)9 67 31 15 96
- La Montreuilloise – 97 rue de Pierre de Montreuil, 93100 Montreuil. Tel: +33 (0)6 81 22 65 87
- L’Express shares its top three Montreuil addresses here
- Emily also dishes on the best bio shops around Paris, including one further afield in Montreuil
- If you have the opportunity to pop out to Montreuil in October, be sure to catch the open artist studio weekend