Les Populettes (Marion Gambin)
Rue Riquet, which stretches from the edge of the 18th arrondissement to the quai of the canal in the 19th arrondissement, is now home to an increasing number of charming meeting points for locals and visitors looking to see a new side of Paris.
En Vrac (Emily Dilling Poulain)
The renovation of Marché couvert La Chapelle (or Marché de l’Olive as the locals refer to it), which was completed in 2010, brought new life to the neighborhood which was mostly known for its Asian supermarkets and smoke-filled bars and cafés.
Les Populettes (Marion Gambin)
The market is open six days a week and is home to one of the area’s finest (and friendliest) fishmongers as well as an excellent cheese and dairy stand. Alumni of the market include the owners of En Vrac who went to open a brick and mortar shop a few paces away, beginning the conquest of rue Riquet.
Les Populettes (Marion Gambin)
Specializing in natural wines, as well as a selection of locally brewed beers, En Vrac is a great place to pick up a bottle to go, or drink on site while enjoying their small, but well paired menu. This is a favorite spot to enjoy a crisp white wine and oysters, or a hearty red with an assiette de fromage.
Les Populettes (Marion Gambin)
The savvy En Vrac shopper knows that here the approach is BYOB- bring your own (empty) bottle to the shop and fill it from the large barrels of wine which line the back wall of the shop. For bigger events, the store offers wine barrel rental- perfect for a French spin on the classic American kegger.
Les Petites Gouttes
A little farther down the road kitsch and cute meet halfway at Populettes. This lovely lady-run restaurant/café serves simple food (the menu consists of bagels done three ways and a rotating list of daily specials) in a Formica clad setting.
Les Populettes (Marion Gambin)
Just enough pastels and 50s vintage come together to make the spot a cozy haven on a rainy day or a convenient stop off before or after hitting up the market. Open from midday on six days a week, pop in to Populettes for a quick café or a late afternoon apéro and enjoy the comings and goings of this quickly changing quartier.
En Vrac
For a limited time only, the shared artist workspace Le Shakirail hosts regular film projections, concerts, and art exhibits. Thanks to a year long agreement with the French railway system, which owns the building that was once a training space for SNCF employees, the Collectif Curry Vavart occupies and animates the abandoned rooms, bringing art and culture to the community.
Les Populettes (Marion Gambin)
Les Petites Gouttes & En Vrac
While in the area, check out the newest addition to the neighborhood, la halle Pajol. This solar-powered edifice is home to a library, Paris’ largest youth hostel, and a growing number of up-and-coming designer boutiques.
En Vrac
Les Petites Gouttes a modern and comfortable bar/restaurant in the same complex somehow missed the memo that you could source quality coffee and beer in Paris and both are sorely lacking from the uninspired menu, but something tells me that this DJ ready space will be packed when this newest neighborhood address sees its first summer and the spacious esplanade attracts travelers, locals, and fair weather fans.
Rue Riquet (Emily Dilling Poulain)
Related links:
- To find out more about En Vrac check out this post by David Lebovitz
- Don’t miss Girls Guide to Paris’ tips on how to spend an afternoon at the Marché de l’Olive in Paris
- Discover other less known parts of Paris thanks to Kim’s recent post for the HiP Paris Blog
Written by Emily Dilling Poulain for the HiP Paris Blog. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.
WRITTEN BY
Emily Dilling
Emily Dilling is a France based writer and author of My Paris Market Cookbook: A Culinary Tour of French Flavors and Seasonal Recipes. In 2005 Emily moved to Paris from her native California and began exploring the cities markets, restaurants, and cafés. In 2010 she founded the blog Paris Paysanne, where she writes about her favorite addresses and artisans in the city. Emily currently lives in the Loir-et-Cher region of France, where she writes and works in the grapevines.
Can’t wait to check all these places out!
Thanks Marjorie! And Kim, Populettes is particularly adorable- great spot for a ladies lunch!
Nice article, Emily! They did a great job with the renovation of La Chapelle covered market, and it’s exciting to learn about the ripple effects in the neighborhood. Thanks!
Such a lovely place!
Very interesting piece on a real off-the-beaten-track part of town! I’ll have to check some of these places out. Thanks, Emily!