Parisian Living

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris’ Chic 16th Arrondissement

by Sylvia Sabes

When Benjamin Franklin came to Paris as US ambassador, he moved into the charming village of Passy, where genteel manor homes filled the bucolic countryside in what is now the 16th arrondissement. The Passy neighborhood still has that easy village feel, shady streets leading the way for relaxed, affluent Parisians out running their daily errands. It is far from the tourist crowds, yet very much in the heart of the city, the Eiffel Tower never far from sight.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement like this brasserie with leather seating and white metro tiles.Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement like the Patisserie des Rêves, with its trendy interiors where the phrase 'Vive le goûter!' is written on the wall above delicate pastries and cakes are laid out under glass bell jars.A view of the River Seine and the Eiffel Tower in Paris' 16th neighborhood.Les Deux Stations, La Pâtisserie des Reves, La Tour Eiffel

The 16th is known for its wide tree lined boulevards with bourgeois apartment buildings, the epitome of Baron Haussmann’s 19th century urban planning. This is an arrondissement made for leisurely strolls and easy access, full of excellent museums, remarkable food, and stupendous views with the extraordinary 2000-acre Bois de Boulogne park just steps away.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement like this cozy brasserie with an old cash register (left) and outdoor seating with red metal chairs (right).Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, don't miss the Museum of Modern Art's outdoor terrace (left) and cobblestone streets lined with cafes (right).Les Deux Stations, Musée d’Art Moderne, Marché Passy

As museums go, the Cîté de l’architecture is a jewel box of architecture from the Middle Ages to today, with gargoyles lining the walls just a floor below Le Corbusier models. The Eiffel Tower looks on through the plate glass façade. A few blocks away the Palais de Tokyo is the largest contemporary art space in Europe, next to the City of Paris’ Free Modern Art Museum with the Galliera Fashion Museum just across the street. At the far extreme of the arrondissement the Marmottan Monet Museum displays the world’s largest collection of Monet masterpieces.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement like this shiny bistro with gold touches and wooden tables. Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement like high-end brasseries tended to by typical French waiters in shirts and ties (left). The wood paneled dining room with wooden chairs that have deep pink velvet seats (right).Le Tournesol, Le Stella

Dining options in the 16th run the gamut, from the Michelin-three-star Astrance to the humble Cîté de l’architecture‘s cafeteria with its priceless view of the Trocadero fountains and the Eiffel Tower. Le Tournesol is a bright, vibrant bistro along the Seine, serving fresh, modern cuisine to the intellectual crowd from the Maison de la Radio across the street.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement like high-end brasseries with outdoor seating like at Le Tournesol.Le Tournesol

La Petite Marquise is another favorite with the local business crowd, well known for their baked goods, while Le Stella is a classic old world style bistro with memorable food that takes diners back to another era. Les Deux Stations is a charming neighborhood bistro with the perfect mix of authentic tradition and modern fun.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including high-end brasseries like Le Tournesol which has a resident gray cat (left) and cozy banquette seating next to big window (right).Le Tournesol

As soon as the sun starts to shine, the fashion crowd heads to the terrace at Monsieur Bleu to munch on contemporary fusion fare, with yet another view to take your breath away.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, like Tokyo Eat at the Palais de Tokyo Museum for good sushi on the go, or other Japanese delights you can see in the glass counter.Tokyo Eat

Tokyo Eat is where local families head for a Sunday brunch with a post-modern, industrial, arty vibe, while the more genteel set will opt for the aristocratic St James garden brunch or Michelin-starred dinners.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including Tokyo Eat at the Palais de Tokyo Museum for Japanese style food in a 70s decor.Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including Tokyo Eat at the Palais de Tokyo Museum for Japanese style food in a 70s decor with orange bulbous lighting and low-slung colorful chairs.Tokyo Eat

The residents of the 16th have remained loyal to their local markets, ensuring the survival of two covered markets – the Marché couvert Passy and the Marché couvert Saint-Didier – as well as six open-air roving markets that visit on various days from Tuesday to Sunday.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including the Saint Didier market, where you'll find smart restaurants (left) as well as beautiful florists (right).Marché Didier

Parisians will cross town to visit the butchers Yves Marie Le Bourdonnec or Hugo Desnoyer, true artisans who are passionate about their craft. And while they’re in the neighborhood, they’re sure to visit one of the infamous pastry shops in the area: the historic Carette, the modern Cyril Lignac, and the decadent Pâtisserie des Rêves.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including some of the best butchers in the city who offer all sorts of meat cuts (left) and friendly staff to help you choose and cut it (right).Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including some of the best butchers in the city with all sorts of beef cuts.Yves Marie le Bourdonnec

In between meals and museums, families can head to the quaint Ranelagh gardens for a puppet show or to ride the old-fashioned, hand-cranked merry-go-round. The newly restored Art Deco pools at Piscine Molitor guarantee a relaxing day, regardless of the weather, with one large pool for bathing and sun bathing, and a second covered pool for serious laps in any weather, all set in what could easily be a 1930s film set. Modern boutiques featuring popular Parisian brands line the boulevard Victor Hugo and fill the Passy village, with the LVMH-owned Franck et Fils department store ensuring that there really is something for everyone. And if you don’t find it there, the collection of five Reciproque consignment shops on the rue de la Pompe is a treasure trove of luxury bargains.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including some of the best patisseries in town like the Patisserie des Rêves which does great choux à la crème.Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, including some of the best patisseries like Cyril Lignac's pastry shop which does delicious fruit tarts (left) and artisanal baguettes (right).La Pâtisserie des Rêves, La Pâtisserie de Cyril Lignac

At the end of the day, the Sir Winston is a classy neighborhood dive that sells cheap drinks to the thirsty crowd of business folk leaving their offices on the Champs Elysées. The Hotel Raphael serves up perfect drinks with an exclusive rooftop view of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, while the equally elegant Shangri-La is known for elaborate cocktails and the occasional DJ entertaining into the wee hours.

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, where you'll find the Ranelagh park with donkeys and ponies (left) and an old horse swings for kids.Jardin Ranelagh

Stay tuned soon for a visit to those 2000 acres of the Bois de Boulogne, where Michelin-starred restaurants collide with an amusement park and some very exciting architecture…

Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris' Chic 16th Arrondissement, where you'll find the Ranelagh park with lots of beautiful trees, flowerbeds and statues.Jardin Ranelagh
  • Musée Cité de l’architecture, 1 place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 58 51 52 00
  • Musée Marmottan Monet, 2 rue Louis Boilly, 75016 Paris. Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 96 50 33
  • Musée d’Art Moderne, 11 avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 53 67 40 00
  • Palais Galeria, 10 rue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 75116 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 56 52 86 00
56 52 86 00
  • Astrance, 4 rue Beethoven, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 40 50 84 40
10, rue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 75116 Paris
  • Le Tournesol, 2 avenue de Lamballe, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 45 25 95 94
  • Les Deux Stations, 131 boulevard Exelmans, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 46 51 89 19
  • Le Stella, 133 avenue Victor Hugo, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 56 90 56 00
  • La Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo, 75116 Paris. Tel: +33 (01) 45 00 77 36
  • Palais de Tokyo/Tokyo Eat, 13 avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 00 29
  • Monsieur Bleu, 20 avenue de New York, 75116, Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 90 47
  • Yves Marie Bourdonnec, 172 avenue Victor Hugo, 75116 Paris.
  • Hugo Desnoyer,  28 rue du Docteur Blanche, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 45 40 76 67
  • Carette,  4 place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 47 27 98 85
  • Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac, 2 rue Chaillot, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (01) 43 72 74 88
  • Pâtisserie des Rêves, 111 rue de Longchamp, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 47 04 00 24
  • Jardin Ranelagh, 1 avenue Prudhon, 75016 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 45 83 51 75
  • Hotel Raphael, 17 avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 53 64 32 00
  • Shangri-La, 10 avenue d’Iéna, 75116 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 53 67 19 98

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Written by Sylvia Sabes for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Palmyre Roigt. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Written By

Sylvia Sabes

When not hitting the ol’ cobblestones hunting down the hottest new addresses for her job as Paris Expert for Afar magazine and Luxe City Guides, Sylvia pretends to be swamped disguised as a wife and mom. You can read more of her work at www.SylviaSabes.com (link below) or follow her adventures on FB @SylviaDublanc View Sylvia Sabes's Website

3 comments on “Exploring the Hidden Gems of Paris’ Chic 16th Arrondissement

John Billingsley

Thank you for your wonderful suggestions. We rented an apartment for next week before our Normandy cruise down the Seine. This is most helpful. Well done.

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