June 17, 2014
Returning home from a week in Brooklyn, where serving “perfectly” brewed beans has almost been legislated into city bylaws, I’m always startled to see Parisians rush to their favorite zinc, savoring their industrially roasted, under-frothed café crème for a reassuring taste of home.
Everyone has their favorite café. It’s usually the one closest to home or the office, because it’s not actually about the coffee, it’s about the crowd of familiar faces and friendly gossip.
There are a few mythic addresses, though, for which even locals will cross town to savor a sun-soaked terrace, a colorful scene or prime people watching.
June 12, 2014
Fresh roasted coffee, craft beer, and international wines are increasingly popular among Parisians, with specialty stores, bars, and coffee shops popping up in their honor all around town. A few weeks ago, we (re)introduced you to Alannah McPerson Tavallai of Emperor Norton, Sarah Mouchot and Lise Kvan of Holybely, among others. In part two of the Ladies of the Paris Dining Scene series we concentrate on some of the women behind the best-loved beverages in the French capital.
These three ladies have their finger on the pulse of each growing movement and were kind enough to take some time and share their insights with us.
People’s Drugstore, Didier Gauducheau
June 10, 2014
Paris is beautiful no matter how you view it, but through a monochrome lens, its true elegance and character become strikingly apparent.
Removing color from a place so rich in fashion, art and culture impresses a fresh perspective upon both the tourist and seasoned resident.
You see things differently, and find magnificence between shades of gray that you may have missed walking the colorized streets in person.
June 3, 2014
The Fort d’Aubervilliers, a former military fortication that was abandoned in the 70s, is opening to the public for a presentation of the work of more than 40 urban artists for the In Situ Art Festival. Pieces include the transformation of 15 trucks and 10 vans stationed within the fort, which is set to be demolished this fall; all the more reason to check out this festival, which is on view until July 14.
Festival Onze Bouge, 18 years and running, returns this year to Paris’s 11eme for “Eleven Movement” from May 31 – June 7. The festival features theater, music, dance, and street art performances around the arrondissement, and all free of charge. Take a peek at the schedule for more details.
From June 2 – 8 the Parc de la Villette plays host to Villette Sonique, this summer’s first major music festival. This year’s lineup brings a great variety of talents, from sets by Four Tet, Nils Frahm and Jagwar Ma. Not to mention Saturday and Sunday afternoons also promise free shows, which you should clearly not miss.
May 28, 2014
Aristide Boucicaut opened the world’s first department store in the 1850′s. Le Bon Marché was an instant and enduring success, changing shopping habits (and the neighborhood) forever.
The magnificent Hôtel Lutetia was built across the street to host out of town shoppers, and restaurants opened to feed them. Little has changed in the last 150 years and there are still a lot of great lunch options in the area, making it hard to choose just one!
May 15, 2014
L’épicerie du Verre Volé
With more and more people in Paris paying attention to the quality and origin of their food, it’s no surprise that independent, organic stores are increasingly popular. A focus on ingredient-based cooking in restaurants has inspired a focus on ingredients in the home and specialty food shops like Terroirs d’Avenir and L’épicerie du Verre Volé provide the everyday consumer with options for locally sourced and artisanal ingredients.
If you’re looking to go “bio”, or organic, in Paris, there are several options for certified organic shopping. Three open-air markets, Marché Batignolles, Marché Raspail, and Marché Brancusi, are exclusively organic- with everything from fruits and vegetables to meats and cheeses all cultivated respecting traditional and natural methods. If you can’t make it to the market, there are quite a few options for organic shopping in Paris. Chain stores such as the Monoprix group owned Naturalia and the swiftly expanding Bio C’ Bon abound and are easily found in most neighborhoods, but if you’re looking for something with more of a family-owned feel here are a few independent and ethically engaged organic shops that you shouldn’t miss:
May 13, 2014
Montmartre. My Parisian neighborhood. My home, on and off, for more than 20 years. Over the years, many things in the neighborhood have changed and evolved but I have remained faithful and dedicated to this little slice of Parisian happiness.
Erica’s Montmartre view
SoPi has exploded and Montmartre has gentrified. Real estate values are up. Abbesses now evokes hip, funky and stylish. Parisians come here for a weekend outing, no longer shunning it for the potential dangers of hoodlums and prostitutes.
L’Objet Qui Parle & Chairs from l’Objet Qui Parle and flowers from Des Fleurs Pour Soi
May 9, 2014
Jardin Albert Kahn (Hotels Paris Rive Gauche)
Immortalized in literature and song, there might not be a better time to be in Paris than the Springtime.
Les Berges (Raïssa)
Les Parisiens bask in the warm rays and take in the spring air and blossons in any way they can, usually camped out on the sunniest terraces or leisurely strolling through the most popular parks and along the waterways.
May 6, 2014
Emily Dilling and Erica Berman sat down with famed chef David Lebovitz inside his (actual) Paris kitchen to get some insider details on the inspirations for his latest cookbook, My Paris Kitchen.We’re also giving away a copy of the book to one lucky reader! For your chance to win, see instructions at the bottom of this post. Happy cooking! -Geneviève
In French the word cuisine has a double meaning- referring both to the room in your house where food is prepared and the type of cooking that you do there.
Salted Butter caramel Chocolate Mousse/ David Lebovitz (Ed Anderson)
David Lebovitz’s new book My Paris Kitchen, is all about his cuisine, in both French senses of the term. David’s stories of equipping his Paris kitchen, from the double basin sink he drove all the way to Lille to retrieve to the industrial lighting fixtures that were procured after hours of wily web searching, set the scene for the 100 recipes to come.
Kitchen Utensils & Chocolate Cake with Dulce de Leche filling (Erica Berman)
Much like the recipes in My Paris Kitchen, the accessories and ingredients in David’s kitchen all have a story; the sole salad tong still looking for its mate, the spices shared from friends abroad, the olive oil from an organic producer in Sicily, the vintage cutlery and glass garlic holder, all props in the story of David’s life in Paris.
May 2, 2014
Monumenta at the Grand Palais; May 10 – June 22: For the past seven years, the Grand Palais has been commissioning artists to create gargantuan installations for its iconic glass-topped nave. This year, Russian artists Ilya and Emila Kabakov were chosen to do the honor. “The Strange City” that the pair has created is an experiential imaginary utopia, a place that beckons the viewer to reflect on life and art, the past and the future we are creating.
Top: Nuit des Musées (©Archives nationales); bottom: Gregory Marchand of Frenchie & Les Heures Heureuses
May 15 – May 25: The famed Festival Jazz a Saint-German-des-Prés is back for its 14th edition this month. Naturally the festival has a solid line-up of concerts at locations like the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Maison des Oceans , but there are also talks, a young talent competition, and more.