March 16, 2017
Blé Sucré, Erin Dahl
The Quartier d’Aligre is one of my favorite pockets of Paris, and one I am lucky enough to call home. Located just southeast of Bastille, the area has a little bit of everything: bustling shops on rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (including a Marks & Spencer and sizeable Monoprix) and easy metro access, but also calm streets and a true neighborhood feel. I even brought my caviste a portion of blanquette de veau a few weeks back. The beloved Marché d’Aligre, a lively daily market located on/around the Place d’Aligre, is only the start. Here are some of my other favorite addresses:
Famed Le Baron Rouge is a post-market go-to, but venture just two blocks further and you’ll land on charming Les Caves de Prague. Its slightly off-the-beaten-path placement means it’s less touristy and prices remain very approachable. What’s more, Manager, Thomas (of the blanquette reference above), serves a curated selection of bottles with an honest warmth and clear passion for wine. I’m also a big fan of Ici-même, which carries a wonderful selection of natural wines.
Boulangerie Bo, Erin Dahl
There’s no shortage of quality boulangeries in the neighborhood, and each has its place. Boulangerie Bo is a favorite for specialty baguettes, like their baguette à l’encre de seiche, a jet-black baguette flavored with cumin and squid ink. Blé Sucré is a must for madeleines, croissants, and pains au chocolat. And newcomer Farine&O has become a go-to for a crusty tradition.
Carnivores shouldn’t miss Boucherie les Provinces, a fabulous butcher situated on the rue d’Aligre. Their filet de boeuf and boeuf haché are particularly special. The shop also offers the option to dine-in, employing the same system as a wine bar: choose your cut of meat at the counter, pay an affordable droit de cuisson, sit down and enjoy.
The neighborhood is teeming with praised Italian newcomers, including Le Fooding’s pick for Best Chef 2017: Passerini. The sit-down restaurant is not to miss, but if you can’t get table, consider heading next-door Pastificio Passerini, where you can pick up fresh pasta to cook at home.
Passager Café is quickly becoming the neighborhood’s favorite new coffee shop. Located in the 11th just north of the Ledru-Rollin metro station, the simple and sophisticated space was opened by blogueuse, Fannyb, and sources its beans from Berlin favorite, Five Elephant.
Cozy up on a leather Chesterfield sofa and enjoy a boozy cocktail at Le China, a sultry multi-story space that recalls 1930s Shanghai. While it houses a restaurant and bar, I recommend going for the latter. There is also live music in the club space downstairs, with a solid line-up of jazz and soul shows.
If you’re waxing more lively than romantic, check out Le Pop-up du Label, first discovered thanks to a Paris Pop-up event there in 2014. A bar and casual restaurant upstairs and live music space downstairs, the spot has a little something for every taste, from free Mardi Jazz each Tuesday evening to periodic 90s hip-hop dance parties. The bar upstairs also carries Club Mate, always a plus in my book.
If shopping is in the cards, don’t miss one of the most charming boutiques in the neighborhood: Les Fleurs. The quirky boutique is located just north of the market and is a go-to for gifts and home decor alike, with affordable handmade pottery, pilea plants, candles, and much more.
Marché d’Aligre, Erin Dahl; Boucherie Les Provinces
Marché d’Aligre – Place d’Aligre, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin.
Les Caves de Prague – 8 rue de Prague, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 72 68 07 36.
Ici-même – 68 rue de Charenton, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 40 00 99
Boulangerie Bo – 85bis rue de Charenton, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 07 75 21
Blé Sucré – 7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 40 77 73
Farine&O – 153 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 72 68 07 36
Boucherie les Provinces – 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 43 91 64
Restaurant Passerini – 65 Rue Traversière, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 44 74 67 84
Passager Café – 18 Passage de la Bonne Graine, 75011. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 99 06
Le China – 50 rue de Charenton, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 46 08 09
Le Pop-up du Label – 14 rue Abel, 75012. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Tel: +33 (0)1 77 11 04 24
Les Fleurs – 5 rue Trousseau, 75011. Métro: Ledru-Rollin.
- Le China made Lily’s list for romantic Valentine’s Day spots; check out her other recommendations for new date-night ideas.
- Rue de Charonne is just north of the Quartier d’Aligre, and one of Messy Nessy Chic’s favorite shopping areas in Paris.
- I first fell for this neighborhood thanks to David Lebovitz’s piece on its addresses. See his favorite spots.
Written by Erin Dahl
Erin's had a whimsical affair with Paris since her first trip as a wide-eyed teenager. She finally made the big move and is currently Editor for HiP Paris as well as Co-founder of Content Coopérative, Paris's first English-native content agency.
Website: Content Coopérative
Tags: 12ème, 12eme arrondissement, 12th arrondissement, Bastille, best coffee paris, Blé Sucré, Boucherie Les Provinces, Boulangerie, Boulangerie Bo, cave, Caves de Prague, cocktails, cocktails in paris, Coffee in Paris, Content Coopérative, croissant, Erin Dahl, FannyB, Farine&O, Faubourg-Saint-Antoine, Five Elephant Coffee, Giovanni Passerini, Ici Même, Le China, Le Fooding, le fooding paris, Le Pop-up du Label, Les fleurs, madeleines, Marché d'Aligre, Marks & Spencer, Monoprix, Natural wine, pain au chocolat, Passager Café, Passerini, Pastificio Passerini, Quartier d'Aligre, rue d'aligre, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine
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