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Halloween in Paris: Cemeteries, Catacombs, and Ghostly Itineraries in the City of Light

Montparnasse Cemetery graves, cachecacheMontparnasse Cemetery, cachecache

Temperatures are dropping as fast as the gold-stained leaves that crunch beneath our feet, filling the air with the fragrance of autumn. Sedate men selling warm chestnuts balance their shopping cart roasters at metro entrances. Fall has fallen on Paris and with Halloween just around the corner, it is the ideal season to explore the city’s darker side.

Pere Lachaise, CpaKmoi

Père Lachaise Cemetery, CpaKmoi

The Catacombs are a macabre storage depot 20 meters below street level; a maze of femurs, ribs, and skulls are arranged, stacked, and aligned, evoking an exhibition of Art Naïve. The aging bones of 15th century literary luminaries Rabelais and Jean de la Fontaine entwine with 18th century revolutionaries Robespierre and Danton, sitting among the remains of six million other Parisians, all of them originally buried in city cemeteries that were reclaimed as land for the living.

Catacombs, Rachel Alter

Catacombs, Rachel Alter

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Ici-même + Gallerie Graphem: Wine Meets Art in Paris’ 12th Arrondissement

Ici Meme, Counter

What happens when two fine arts graduates of the prestigious École du Louvre team up with a French wine expert? A cadre made in French heaven: a wine shop art gallery hybrid for enthusiasts who like their Sancerre with a side of up-and-coming art. Ici-même + Gallerie Graphem, located steps away from the manicured gardens of the Promenade Plantée, finds itself a home in this bohème corner of the 12th arrondissement.

Ici Meme, Tables

Art directors Fabienne Lafaye and Claire Aimonier-Davat, who started their careers in fine art galleries throughout Paris, conceptualized the adjoining Gallerie Graphem. Through their experience in the art world, they have been able to cultivate relationships with artists from all over Europe who have been invited to display their work at exhibitions booked through 2015. During their residency, artists are invited to bond the two spaces with a light sketch trailing from the gallery into the wine shop.

Ici Meme, Montage Interior

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Posted in Arts, Restaurant Reviews, Wine | No Comments »

How to Order Coffee in France with Comme Une Française

You’ve packed a Paris-perfect wardrobe, planned your gastronomic meals, and found idyllic accommodations. Now it’s time to practice your French. Géraldine Lepère shares the phrases you need to order a coffee like a local so the next time you settle into a Parisian café, you will look like ‘un vrai Parisien’. Enjoy! -Erin

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZzQxerWyq4

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Coffee in Paris

Created by Géraldine Lepère for the HiP Paris BlogLooking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.

Posted in Parisian Living | 1 Comment »

Bob’s Bake Shop: A Slice of New York in Paris’ 18th Arrondissement

Bobs, Cherry Pie

When he opened his first spot, Bob’s Juice Bar, in 2006, Marc Grossman says he was driven by a simple desire to bring a little of New York to Paris. “It was something from back home, something I missed, health food, juice bars,” says Grossman. The born-and-bred New Yorker, who at one time worked on Wall Street, decided to move to Paris 15 years ago. He married a French girl and never left.

Bobs, Montage, Cherry Pie, Pecan Pie

Since opening his first café, he has almost single-handedly changed Parisian’s dining habits for the better, introducing them to things like green juice and rice bowls he calls “Veggie Stew.” However, he says his goal was never to push a health food agenda, but rather serve organic, wholesome, tasty food. “We’re not extreme,” says Grossman. “We have muffins, but we also have salads. We try to mix it up.”

Bobs, Breakfast

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | 2 Comments »

The Paris Popup: A Week-long Food Fête in the City of Light

HiP Paris Blog, Sept Soirées, Emma Stencil, Laura and Margaritas

Summer may be over, but there’s always something to celebrate in Paris. The end of September marked the long-awaited return of chef Harry Cummins and sommelier Laura Vidal, the well-known duo behind The Paris Popup. An initiative imagined while the pair were working together at Frenchie Restaurant, Paris Popup brings together the best of Harry’s inventive cooking and Laura’s dead-on wine pairings. 

HiP Paris Blog, Sept Soirées, Emma Stencil, Drinks menu

The popup group debuted last year with a number of successful one-day events hosted in notable Parisian venues like Verjus, Le Mary Celeste, and Bones. For their events the team worked closely with local suppliers and invited other notable chefs, sommeliers, mixologists, musicians, and artists to participate. After last year’s memorable Food Fest popup, hosted at the novel rooftop bar Le Perchoir, Paris Popup packed its suitcases and skipped town for a prolonged trip around the world. Dropping into the diverse culinary scenes of New York City, Oakland, Montreal, Québec City, and Kyoto, the group made friends and fans as they cooked their way across the globe. 

HiP Paris Blog, Sept Soirées, Emma Stencil, 3

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Planning for Paris: Spoiled by Luxury Services in the City of Light

Haven in Paris Victor Hugo Luxe

Haven in Paris, Julien Hausherr

I’ve just booked my Haven in Paris apartment for a week in the City of Love. Sigh… Going to Paris has always been a dream of mine, and I want it to be just perfect. I am working with Haven in Paris to fill my days with the luxury service discounts they are offering during this winter’s low season. While my activities aren’t fully booked, I have already started daydreaming about how I will spend my days. 

Luxe, Paris Wine Company

Luxe, Montage, Palmyre - Les Deux Stations, Le Bon Georges

Champagne from Paris Wine Company; Les Deux Stations/Le Bon Georges, Palmyre Roigt

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Posted in Tours and Classes, Wine | 2 Comments »

The Parisian’s Paris: Discovering the 15ème Arrondissement

HiP Paris Blog, 15eme, Palmyre, PARC ANDRÉ CITROËN 35 (lead)

Parc André Citroën

10% of all Parisians live in the 15th arrondissement, making it the most populous arrondissement in the city, with more citizens than the city of Bordeaux. They come because it’s easy, with spacious boulevards and lovely buildings. They stay because it is a vibrant neighborhood away from the hustle and bustle of all the tourist sights, with great restaurants, excellent public transportation, and plenty of entertainment.

HiP Paris Blog, 15eme, Palmyre, LA CANTINE DU TROQUET 21

Montage HiP Paris Blog, 15eme, Palmyre, CANTINE DU TROQUET 45

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Posted in Parisian Living, Restaurant Reviews | 3 Comments »

Rachel’s Restaurant and Bakery Opens Shop in Paris’ North Marais

HiP Paris Blog, Rachels, Isabel Miller-Bottome, Montage 2

A California summer salad with quinoa, a New York deli-style pastrami sandwich, smoked Banka trout on a sesame bagel— these are just a few of the homemade lunch items you’ll find at the newly opened Rachel’s restaurant in the North Marais.

HiP Paris Blog, Rachels, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 5

Parisians might recognize the name from Rachel’s Cakes in Montreuil, a bakery and catering business that Ohio native, Rachel Moeller, started with her friends, Maria and Birke. In a 60m2 apartment crammed with two stoves and an extra refrigerator in the bedroom, they began to supply fresh, made-to-order bagels, apple pies, muffins, burger buns, and their legendary cheesecakes to Paris eateries like Le Bal Café, Le Camion Qui Fume, and The Broken Arm.

HiP Paris Blog, Rachels, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 3

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Posted in Food, Restaurant Reviews | No Comments »

Marché aux Fleurs et aux Oiseaux: A Hidden Market in the Heart of Paris

HiP Paris Blog, Oiseaux, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 6

From the outside, it looks like any other Parisian covered market. Wander through its romantic 19th century pavilions, however, and you’re transported to a hidden jungle within the Gothic heart of Paris. The sounds of traffic and crowds of tourists coming across the Pont des Arts are slowly drowned out by a piercing crescendo of birds calling from their cages: red and neon green parrots, lavender and turquoise parakeets, tangerine canaries, cooing doves, miniature cockatoos, and more. 

HiP Paris Blog, Oiseaux, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 15

The Marché aux Fleurs et aux Oiseaux is one of the oldest markets in Paris. Located at the Place Louis-Lépine, it dates back to 1808, when Napoleon Bonaparte ruled as Emperor of France and implemented a number of upgrades to the city, including several different food markets, la Colonne Vendôme, l’Eglise de la Madeleine, and rue de Rivoli. 

HiP Paris Blog, Oiseaux, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 7

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Posted in Markets, Parisian Living | 2 Comments »

Following Vincent Van Gogh: The Artist in Auvers-sur-Oise

HiP Paris Blog, Van Gogh, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 10

Although the bright colors of Provence normally come to mind when thinking of the paintings of Vincent van Gogh, it was actually in Paris and nearby Auvers-sur-Oise that the passionate artist produced most of his work. As this year commemorates the 125th anniversary of his death, I’ve put together a stroll through the village using his own correspondence as a guide in his work, to pay homage to the artist and highlight the places that so fervently inspired him.

HiP Paris Blog, Van Gogh, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 16

“Auvers is decidedly very beautiful. So much so that I think it’ll be more advantageous to work than not to work, despite all the bad luck that’s to be foreseen with paintings.” A poetic foreshadowing by Vincent near the beginning of his stay in Auvers; in the 70 days he spent in the hamlet, he produced over 70 paintings. It was his fellow artist and dear friend Cezanne who encouraged the Dutchman to spend some time in Auvers under the care of Doctor Paul Gachet. The doctor himself dabbled in art and, over the years, had become a patron and friend to many other Impressionists including Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, and Sisley. For him, art was therapy.

Montage HiP Paris Blog, Van Gogh, Isabel Miller-Bottome, 18

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Posted in Arts, Travel | 4 Comments »