Montmartre. My Parisian neighborhood. My home, on and off, for more than 20 years. Over the years, many things in the neighborhood have changed and evolved but I have remained faithful and dedicated to this little slice of Parisian happiness.
Erica’s Montmartre view
SoPi has exploded and Montmartre has gentrified. Real estate values are up. Abbesses now evokes hip, funky and stylish. Parisians come here for a weekend outing, no longer shunning it for the potential dangers of hoodlums and prostitutes.
L’Objet Qui Parle & Chairs from l’Objet Qui Parle and flowers from Des Fleurs Pour Soi
I wince at the increasing number of chain stores, the Starbucks that popped up around the corner, and the Subway sandwich shops exploding everywhere like mushrooms… Quelle horreur!
Rose Bakery & Montmartre Streets
People live here, eat here, shop here, and call it home. Despite many changes, Rue Lepic and Rue des Abbesses remain lively market streets, and the chimes of the St Jean de Montmartre church continue to ring cheerfully throughout the day, according to an elusive schedule that I have never been able to determine, for services and special occasions.
From the incredible light and the wake up call of singing birds, to the quiet early morning streets, I feel at home and at peace in my neighborhood adoré.
rue Veron in Montmartre
I happily accept the now-amazing bread, the flourishing organic food scene, the great coffee, and the growing choice of interesting new shops and tasty restaurants.
Voila my current list of favorite shops, cafes and restaurants within a short radius of my home in Montmatre. The list is not extensive or all-inclusive. You will find many other wonderful spots in the area. Enjoy!
Le Carillon de L’Olivier
Organic food: Le Carillon de L’Olivier – Small, friendly and stocked full of excellent organic foods, I prefer this tiny shop to the larger organic chain supermarkets in the area.
Le Carillon de L’Olivier – 34 rue Abbesses 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 46 06 80 42.
Fruits and Vegetables: Au Verger des Abbesses – My friends at the Verger always have a smile, a friendly word and often a delicious gift. Prices are not inexpensive, and bio is not much of a preoccupation, but quality and variety abound.
Au Verger des Abbesses – 32 rue des Abbesses 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 46 06 59 31.
Au Verger des Abbesses
Tea: Neo T – Welcoming and privately owned. No chain store here. This tiny shop offers variety and personally sourced teas. The owner regularly travels to China, Japan, India and anywhere of tea interest. Samples offered. Organic available.
Neo T – 89 Rue des Martyrs, 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 53 41 69 76.
Lunch: Rose Bakery – Across the boulevard and down the hill, Rose Bakery remains my go to spot for freshly prepared organic deliciousness. From the salads, quiche and risotto to the juices, tea, cakes and desserts everything is creative, tasty and wonderful.
Rose Bakery – 46 rue des Martyrs 75009 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 12 80.
Neo T
Lunch and dinner: Le Pantruche – Delicious, creative and friendly this bustling neighborhood gem is a Paris foodie destination. Reservations are a must.
Le Pantruche – 3 rue Victor Masse 75009 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 48 78 55 60.
Coffee: Kooka Boora – A neighborhood staple for the anglo hipster coffee loving scene. Kooka Boora is the perfect meeting spot for excellent coffee and tasty treats. In warmer weather the outside tables are the ideal spot for people watching and sun.
Kooka Boora – 53 avenue Trudaine 75009 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 56 92 12 41.
Coquelicot
Beer: People’s Drugstore – The large selection of international and local beers from a friendly knowledgeable staff is a must for beer connoisseurs and aficionados.
People’s Drugstore – 78 rue des Martrys 75018 Paris.
Bread: Coquelicot – When I moved to Paris over 20 years ago, it was harder to find a decent baguette. I was young and inexperienced and did not know my way around the bread scene. It was only when amazing boulangeries started popping up that I realized what I had been missing. Coquelicot is a personal favorite. Their many varieties of bread and baguettes are all excellent. The Sunday morning line is long … and worth the wait.
Coquelicot – 24 rue des Abbesses 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 46 06 18 77.
La Butte Fromagerie
Cheese: La Butte Fromagerie – Friendly service and a nice selection of goat cheese, fresh butter, eggs, yoghurt and crème fraiche.
La Butte Fromagerie – 32 rue des Abbesses 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 52 96 27.
Flowers: Des Fleurs pour Soi – An excellent selection of quality flowers and plants. Watch out for the cute but grumpy doggy in the back. I often pop in here after a coffee at Kooka Boora.
Des Fleurs pour Soi – 59 rue des Martyrs 75009 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 53 21 05 32.
Jo
Le Pic en Fleurs – Friendly service and a nice selection of flowers in the midst of lively Rue Lepic.
Le Pic en Fleurs – 32 Lepic 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 64 29 22.
Brocante and antiques: L’Objet Qui Parle – Never expensive, and always interesting, I rarely leave this tiny shop empty handed.
L’Objet Qui Parle – 86 rue des Martyrs 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)6 09 67 05 30.
Jo
Men’s Clothing: Jo – Simple, stylish and casual. The perfect stop to buy my husband a linen shirt, scarf or a comfortable pair of jeans.
Jo – 47, rue D’Orsel 75018 Paris. Tel: + 33 (0)1 55 79 99 16.
Beauty: Beauty Monop – The friendly ambiance and large stock of body, hair, and makeup choices from Compagnie de Provence, Nuxe, Ahava, and Leonor Greyl to simpler everyday brands is convenient and affordable.
Beauty Monop – 28 rue des Abbesses 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 52 89 61.
Princesse Tam Tam
Mlle Bio – For my organic beauty needs, I often trek down the hill to Mlle Bio on Rue Lamartine and always find just what I am looking for!
Mademoiselle Bio – 44 Rue Lamartine, 75009 Paris, France. Tel: +33 (0)1 49 70 07 47.
Lingerie: Princesse Tam Tam – A friend of mine turned me on to this shop a few years back and I’m a convert. Princesse Tam Tam offers lovely lingerie, friendly service and decent quality.
Princesse Tam Tam – 31 rue des Abbesses 75018 Paris. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 52 34 99.
Le Mur des Je T’Aime – behind Metro Abbesses this sweet little park awaits with its wonderful wall of “I love you’s” and benches for contemplating the beauty of Paris and Montmartre.
Le Mur des Je T’Aime – Place des Abbesses 75018 Paris.
Le Mur des Je T’Aime & Place des Abbesses
Related links:
- Traveling to Paris on a budget? Read National Geographic’s tips of what to do in Paris without spending a single dime!
- Another cool neighborhood in Paris, that has been off the radar until now is Batignolles in the 17th arrondissement. Check out Anna’s previous post for the HiP Paris blog.
- Don’t miss a stop by another up and coming area at the moment. Emily found out more about Rue Riquet and its surroundings.
Written by Erica Berman for the HiP Paris Blog. All images by Erica Berman. Looking for a fabulous vacation rental in Paris, London, Provence, or Tuscany? Check out Haven in Paris.
WRITTEN BY
Erica Berman
Erica Berman grew up in Lexington, Mass. After graduating from Syracuse University’s Newhouse School of Journalism and an intensive summer at Middlebury College (Vermont), Erica went to Paris with hopes of submerging herself in French culture and perfecting her French — and she stayed 20 years. Erica is the founder of the HiP Paris Blog and Haven In her former company. She now splits her time between Paris (Montmartre) and Maine (Midcoast). She recently started a non-profit growing organic produce for the food insecure in Maine called Veggies to Table. In her all-too-rare free time, Erica likes to travel off the beaten track, explore Paris and Maine, read, take photos, cook, kayak, hike and enjoy long Sunday brunches with her friends.
Hello Erica. I’m a bit late I know, but can you tell us more about the people that live in Montmartre? Im working on a project and I’ve found very little information about the locals in Montmartre. I need to know what kinds of people typically live there, if you can help me I will be very thankful! Really good post by the way!
Thank You for this post, how wonderful and informative. The more you share, the more I want to come:) I must say that when I think of Paris, I don’t think of Starbucks and Subway:) I’ve heard that it is expensive to live there. I also heard that Americans are not well liked there. Could you shed some light on that. I hope that it is not true because I love Parisians:) If I win the lottery, I will definitely like to have a home there.
The photographs are wonderful and your insights extremely helpful. Hopefully, I will get to visit Montmartre on my next visit to the fascinating city…
I loved Montmartre while I was in Paris for 2 weeks. Amazing neighbourhood.
Thank you Nita! There are so many more places as well . . . and thank you Helen. I hope you have time to explore the neighborhood in September. And Many, yes KB (Kooka Boora) is fun and delicious. And Rose a treat. Enjoy and I hope you will have great weather in June. And Audrey, it is a little village, oui. Paris is made of many villages! – Erica
This is marvelous. Merci Beaucoup!
Nice spots indeed ! If you leave in Montmartre, you will surely like http://www.montmartre-addict.com !
Wow, thank you Lulu! I will be reading this with great interest!
I love this part of Paris ! Montmartre is a lovely neighborhood, makes me think of a little village. Thank you for these nice photos.
Ooh, thanks for this post. My husband and I are visiting Paris in early June and I’m always on the look-out for ‘little gems’ to track down. We loved Kooka Boora (or, KB, as it now seems to be called) but I’ll definitely head for Rose Bakery next time 🙂
Thanks again!
Mandy
What a lovely story of Montmartre. Its clear how much you love this place and I have to agree with you, it is one of my favourites spots in Paris. I am coming to Paris again in September and I will visit again especially since I have always wanted to go to Rose Bakery!
Super list-I’m looking forward to checking these places out. Montmarte is one of my favorite neighborhoods!
Hi Lily, thank you for the comment. I agree that the brunch at Coquelicot is delicious for those who have time. They have the BEST house apricot jam.
Great round-up Erica! As a fellow montmartoise, I think this is well worth bookmarking for anyone spending time in the area or even stopping by on a dimanche apres-midi, the Coquelicot also does great (but slow) brunch!